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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Dec 5, 2019

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic “Sector” Dial

Longines ended the year with two spot-on vintage remakes, the just-launched Heritage Military 1938 and the earlier Heritage Classic “sector” dial that’s just arrived in stores. The Heritage Classic is based on a 1934 Longines wristwatch with dial style known as “sector” or “scientific”. Fashionable today because of its distinctive yet retro look, the sector dial was fairly common in the early 20th century, being found on both pocket- and wristwatches made by a variety of brands, ranging from Patek Philippe to Zenith. So Longines doesn’t have any special claim to the design, but with a retail of just over US$2000, its sector-dial remake is arguably the bang for the buck. At 38.5mm in diameter the Heritage Classic is compact and wears well. It’s slightly larger than the vintage originals – typically 35mm or so, while rarely and expensively 37mm or larger – but not by much. Because the case diameter has been kept smallish by modern standards, the sub-seconds at six is correctly positioned, unlike on most remakes that match large cases with small movements. While the seconds sits closer to the centre of the dial than on the vintage original, the dial still looks correctly laid out with good balance. The remake (left), and the original from 1934 that’s in the Longines museum. Image – Longines Besides the diameter, the case profile is also well done. At 10mm, the height is proportional to the diameter, with a fairly high, single-step bezel and a slim c...

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3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions Time+Tide
Longines Dec 4, 2019

3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions

One of the greatest things about Longines is their history - the Swiss marque was established almost two centuries ago, way back in 1832. This heritage gives the brand an advantage, and it gives the Longines wearer an edge, too. The depth and versatility of Longines timepieces is utterly expansive – and the back catalogue is a … ContinuedThe post 3 Longines for under $5K on their online store that represent value propositions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari Dec 3, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire

Unlike Ferrari’s frankly dismal efforts in Formula 1 this year, 2019 has been a great 12 months for the Italian supercar manufacturer in terms of their commercial and creative partnership with watchmaking vanguards, Hublot. The curvaceous and inimitable Classic Fusion Ferrari GT was not only one of my personal favourites from the provocative Swiss marque, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hands-On: Zenith El Primero Defy 21 Carbon SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Mikrograph one Dec 3, 2019

Hands-On: Zenith El Primero Defy 21 Carbon

Zenith’s streak of high-tech watches – including this year’s Defy Inventor and El Primero Double Tourbillon – began in 2017, when it unveiled the El Primero Defy 21. The watch is a chronograph with a dual-train construction that accommodates a high-frequency chronograph with a resolution of 1/100th of a second and a lightning seconds hand that whizzes round the dial once a second. Originally offered only in ceramic, titanium or gold, the high-frequency chronograph is available in a featherweight carbon composite case – arguably best suited to its styling and complication – with the launch of the El Primero Defy 21 Carbon. A familiar style The unusual movement of the Defy 21 is inspired by the similar constructed movement in the TAG Heuer Mikrograph, one of many high-frequency chronographs devised by Guy Sémon, the resident technical guru at TAG Heuer, a sister company of Zenith. Notably, the Mikrograph and the Defy 21 are the only serially produced, 1/100th of a second chronographs on the market today. Due to the movement’s dual-train architecture – essentially two independent movements on one base plate – the case is a large 44mm in diameter and 14.4mm high. But being carbon composite, it manages to remain lightweight despite the size. At the same time, the predominantly black colour scheme across the case and dial also makes the watch look smaller than it is, especially compared with versions of the Defy 21 in gold or titanium. Visually, the case i...

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Hands-On: F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Prototype SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Dec 2, 2019

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche Prototype

As has become tradition, a good part of Phillips’ upcoming New York watch auction is a memorabilia sale of sorts, including watches owned by Marlon Brando, golfer Jack Nicklaus, and astronaut John Glenn, as well as the Urwerk worn by Robert Downey Jr. while playing Iron Man in Avengers: Endgame. The auction also includes a piece of historical horological memorabilia: an F.P. Journe Octa Réserve de Marche prototype. The prototype is largely identical to the later, serially produced version of the watch – the case is platinum and the dial, yellow gold – but is marked as a prototype on the case back, and also bears the various traits unique to early watches made by Francois-Paul Journe. The cal. 1300 Launched in 2002 and discontinued in 2014, the Octa Réserve de Marche was the brand’s first entry-level wristwatch, powered by an automatic movement, the cal. 1300. Originally conceived to have an eight-day power reserve – hence “Octa” – the movement instead has a power reserve of 120 hours, or about five days. Reputedly constructed with a gear train borrowed from a robust and well-known hand-wind movement plus an extra-large mainspring, the cal. 1300 was the base calibre for the entire Octa line. Although a variety of complications were added on top, ranging from the Octa Chronograph to the annual calendar of the Octa Calendrier, all versions of the movement had identical height of 5.7mm regardless of function. The slimness and smart construction did come at th...

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INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition Time+Tide
Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Dec 2, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition

The latest young star to join the ranks of Rado is the Australian tennis player Ash Barty, who despite being only 23 has already reached the position of women’s world No. 1. What is most exciting for us, and her fans around the world, is that she has collaborated with Rado to release a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rado HyperChrome Ashleigh Barty Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale Time+Tide
Pequignet Dec 2, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale

Getting engaged is an incredibly special moment in anyone’s life, as it spells the beginning of something that will endure to stand the test of time. What better way to celebrate than with a new watch, to match your fiancée’s new ring. This is the story of David and his Pequignet Rue Royale. When did … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – David’s Pequignet Rue Royale appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Santa’s little helpers: 3 Longines tool watches for the festive season Time+Tide
Longines tool watches Dec 1, 2019

Santa’s little helpers: 3 Longines tool watches for the festive season

Believe it or not, somehow there are just 23 short days left until Christmas, and if you haven’t bought your presents yet … you’re in a bit of strife. Thankfully, however, if that special someone in your life is fond of a timepiece or two, then Longines has got you covered with a great many … ContinuedThe post Santa’s little helpers: 3 Longines tool watches for the festive season appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier Dec 1, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467

When you’re buying a new car, there’s usually some key criteria that dictate whether or not said automobile will make the cut. You know the sort of things we’re talking about – fuel economy, safety rating, 0-100km/h times … that sort of stuff. Oh, and of course, price. But is this same buying style employed … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection Time+Tide
Rolex Cellini collection Editor’s note:Benvenuto Dec 1, 2019

Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection

Editor’s note:Benvenuto Cellini was an Italian goldsmith and sculptor born in the last year of the 15th century, who would go on to become one of the most important precious metal workers of his time, finding employment with the royal families of Europe and the Vatican. It is this talented artisan who was the inspiration … ContinuedThe post Italian influence in the Rolex Cellini collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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7 exceptional watches at the next Sotheby’s Australia auction Time+Tide
Nov 30, 2019

7 exceptional watches at the next Sotheby’s Australia auction

Last time I covered a Sotheby’s Australia auction, it was my first time attending a watch auction, and while there were a number of highlights, the sale was heavily weighted towards jewellery. In December, however, Hamish Sharma, the Head of Jewels at Sotheby’s Australia, and his hardworking team have produced a sale that not only … ContinuedThe post 7 exceptional watches at the next Sotheby’s Australia auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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3 highlights from the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers 2019 exhibition in Singapore Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers 2019 exhibition Nov 30, 2019

3 highlights from the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers 2019 exhibition in Singapore

The Les Cabinotiers experience in Singapore, which combined lots of quality time in the company of Vacheron Constantin’s Style and Heritage Director, Christian Selmoni, with a stunning tropical plantation style residence as a setting for the big watch reveals, really brought home one of the ‘Holy Trinity’ brand’s key points of difference. It is exclusive … ContinuedThe post 3 highlights from the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers 2019 exhibition in Singapore appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite SJX Watches
Nov 29, 2019

Vault Introduces the V2 in Red Carbon-Ceramic Composite

Vault, a Swiss watch brand founded in 2013 by Mark Schwarz, has just unveiled the V2+ Red CC, a unique, left-handed variant of its unusual approach to time-telling. Inspired by a bank vault’s time lock mechanism – Mr Schwarz was both a police officer and banker earlier in his career – the brand’s watches feature a time display based on a planetary gear system, where each hour marker is actually a functioning planetary gear that travels around the dial. All of that ingenious mechanics is courtesy of UhrTeil, the complication and manufacturing outfit led by Andreas Strehler. Novel case material The new V2+ Red CC differs from earlier models with its left-handed crown and novel case material. The case is made of carbon-ceramic composite, which gives it the properties of both its constituent materials – the lightness and strength of carbon as well as the hardness of ceramic. Basically, ceramic is layered in between sheets of carbon, which is then submerged polymer and baked an autoclave to create the block of composite material. As a result, it retains the distinctive striped pattern of carbon composite. The tonneau-shaped case has a complex, multi-faceted design made up of five parts and is curved on two axis, allowing it to sit well on the wrist. It measures 39mm by 46.7mm and 15mm in height, which is thick but a necessity. That’s because the movement is essentially an automatic base calibre with a planetary display module on top. And as in the realm of such e...

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TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Nov 29, 2019

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition

Launched in 2016, the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T remains the most affordable Swiss-made chronograph with touribllon, starting at just US$17,000. Despite the price, the Calibre Heuer 02T is an in-house movement that’s automatic, COSC-certified, and equipped with a lightweight flying tourbillon that has a carbon composite upper carriage and titanium base. The latest variant of the affordable “grand” complication is a limited edition made for Singapore retailer Cortina Watch. Dressed in orange and back, the Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edition is being offered only online, via the retailer’s website. As with the standard model, the case measures 45mm wide and 16.4mm high. It features the modular construction that characterises the Carrera line. The case middle is black-coated titanium paired with a black ceramic bezel, while the lugs, pushers and crown are steel. The dial is semi-skeletonised to reveal the grey, sandblasted base plate of the movement. Orange accents are applied to the dial and bezel, including the chronograph hands, and even the carbon composite upper cage of the tourbillon, creating a striking contrast with the black components. Mechanically the movement is identical to the standard Heuer 02T. Based on the CH-80 chronograph movement, it’s equipped with a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. And it has a 65-hour power reserve, with the balance running at a frequency of 4Hz. Key facts and price TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02T Cortina Edi...

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In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch SJX Watches
Rado x Nov 28, 2019

In-Depth: Commissioning the Voutilainen GMT-Villes Custom Time Zone Watch

Voutilainen watches are well loved for their dials, which are made in-house and offered with a myriad of finishes – primarily guilloché or enamel – as well as numerous colours and appliques. But unconstrained freedom leads to hesitation, and too many choices make a decision difficult. American psychologist Barry Schwartz, writing in The Paradox of Choice, notes that consumers are often happier having to choose from fewer options, rather than more. The author’s custom GMT-Villes But in my own collecting, perhaps the opposite is true. When I work with an independent watchmaker on a custom or bespoke watch, exploring the abundance of possibilities is the main attraction, particularly when I can specify the details face to face with the watchmaker himself. Investing sufficient time to figure out my goal makes the process of choosing not a task to be feared, but an enjoyable journey leading to the unique piece. This is my story of commissioning the GMT-Villes from Kari Voutilainen (which happened slightly before I embarked on a similar project with Andreas Strehler). Kari Voutilainen in his showroom. Image – FHH The beginning of custom work After setting up his own workshop in 2002, Kari, then 40 years old, made his debut as an independent watchmaker with the Masterpiece series of wristwatches, starting with Masterpiece 6 unveiled at Baselworld in 2005. The Masterpiece watches were all one-off minute repeaters relying on rebuilt and finely decorated vintage ebauches ma...

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BLACK FRIDAY OFFER: The Black Pack, an offer to dive for, 4 days only Time+Tide
Longines Legend Diver Nov 28, 2019

BLACK FRIDAY OFFER: The Black Pack, an offer to dive for, 4 days only

It’s Black Friday and do we have an offer to dive for. If you’ve ever thought that just maybe the Longines Legend Diver in alluring matt black is a watch for you, then you have a couple of days to move and get a whole swag of cool Time+Tide merchandise with it at no extra … ContinuedThe post BLACK FRIDAY OFFER: The Black Pack, an offer to dive for, 4 days only appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Saving the Ocean with Seiko Prospex Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex I recently had Nov 28, 2019

Saving the Ocean with Seiko Prospex

I recently had the privilege of attending an event with Seiko that focused on their Save the Ocean collection, and the work that can be done with the funds raised. While the event itself was an interesting blend of experience and information, I’ll explain exactly what the Seiko Save the Ocean collection is first. If … ContinuedThe post Saving the Ocean with Seiko Prospex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Is this Tudor Black Bay “Smiley” the next big collector’s watch? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay “Smiley” Nov 28, 2019

Is this Tudor Black Bay “Smiley” the next big collector’s watch?

Editor’s note: A perennially common question in the horological hemisphere is, “What is the next BIG future collectible timepiece?” It’s a pretty loaded question, and usually one answered with, rather obviously, nothing more than conjecture and anecdotal hypothesis. But, if we’re being honest, the best indicator of the “next big thing” is when there is … ContinuedThe post Is this Tudor Black Bay “Smiley” the next big collector’s watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite Nov 27, 2019

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite is a highly technical yet decorative grand complication panelled in meteorite and aventurine. But it also evokes watchmaking of the early 2000s in its mechanical grandeur. Exotic tourbillons started to proliferate at the turn of the millennium, and soon the offerings were numerous, ranging from orbital to inclined to multi-axis. Today such tourbillons are commonplace, but in the early 2000s they were radical and cutting edge. While the orbital tourbillon was nothing more than a visual spectacle, the inclined and multi-axis tourbillons were attempts to adapt Breguet’s invention for the wrist, in other words they made chronometric sense, at least on paper. One of the earliest and most significant multi-axis tourbillons was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon of 2005. While it wasn’t the first multi-axis tourbillon in a wristwatch – that honour goes to Thomas Prescher – the Gyrotourbillon was distinguished by its elaborate, three-dimensional cage of lightweight aluminium, made possible only with the aid of modern technology. The original Gyrotourbillon of 2005, which also incorporated a perpetual calendar with equation of time With the leap year and power reserve displays on the back The Gyrotourbillon was arguably the complication that defined Jaeger-LeCoultre as an haute horlogerie brand rather than a movement maker for other marques. Since its launch the Gyrotourbillon evolved into several iterations, including thi...

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