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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Stop The Snark! - Earned Dogmatism And The Dunning-Kruger Effect In Watches Fratello
Oct 14, 2024

Stop The Snark! - Earned Dogmatism And The Dunning-Kruger Effect In Watches

Every field has them, and the watch world is no exception. I am talking about people with strong opinions. Heck, I am one, and I work in an office filled with them. And then there is the comments section on Fratello, social media, forums, and YouTube…all full of people with strong opinions. Now, that wouldn’t […] Visit Stop The Snark! - Earned Dogmatism And The Dunning-Kruger Effect In Watches to read the full article.

A New, Smaller, and Even More Advanced Dive Watch from SēL Worn & Wound
Oct 11, 2024

A New, Smaller, and Even More Advanced Dive Watch from SēL

Arizona’s SēL Instruments have been making, literally, bomb proof watches since 2017. The term overengineered is often thrown around in watchmaking, but no other brand quite embodies this term the way SēL Instruments does. Not only do they engineer their watches from scratch, but they also engineer the equipment to make them, as well as the tools to test them. They even reinvented the watch bracelet with an ingenious clasp system called the Wavlock. According to the brand, their watches appeal to many in the armed forces, police, EMTs, or anyone that lives and works in the harshest environments on earth. You can tell these watches were made by someone that never skips leg days, though just like Adrew McLean’s oversize quads, these watches have always been quite large. That is, until now. Introducing the new OmniDiver Xos 42, a smaller, much more wearable version of their signature OmniDiver. That said, they did not just shrink it. Their focus is on a trifecta feature set for extreme environmental protection in a smaller 42mm case: impact resistance, water resistance, and magnetic resistance.  The original OmniDiver has a water-resistance rating of 6,100 meters, but the new Xos 42 is still no slouch at 2,000 meters. What is even more impressive is that the new one is only 13.7mm thick. To make that happen, they needed to add new Teflon bearings to their already incredibly good ball-bearing bezel bezel assembly. They needed to strengthen their screw-down crown and inv...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph Fratello
Oct 11, 2024

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph

It has been a while since I published a Pre-Owned Spotlight, so I figured I should return in style with watches I can only dream of owning and wearing. Today, I will go on a pretend shopping spree for a pre-owned, high-end chronograph. Do I need a pre-owned, high-end chronograph? Yes, I do, thank you […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Shopping For A Deliciously High-End Chronograph to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648 WatchAdvice
Zenith  Defy Revival Diver A3648 Oct 10, 2024

Hands-On With The Zenith Defy Revival Diver A3648

Part of Zenith’s Watches & Wonders 2024 releases was a long-overdue Revival of a popular retro model. But does the 70s aesthetic still hold up today? Let’s find out! What We Love: Retro design & old-school cool Tough specs make for good for daily wear Plenty of adjustments for even the smallest wrists What We Don’t: Clasp feels lacking in design Challenging to pull off and style with outfits Smudges easily – a byproduct of all high-polish watches Final Score: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 We at Watch Advice were busy throughout all of 2024’s Watches & Wonders. So many brands, so many releases, and all in one place? April was the season for Watch Heaven. With your eyes darting from brand to brand, it’s easy to get lost in the fog of the amazing new models – however, if you don’t slow down and look around, you might realise that you missed something special. ‘Under-the-radar’ is a somewhat apt description of Zenith’s releases at this year’s biggest watch fair. While there were two new modern defy models worth celebrating, one release didn’t seem to get as much press as everything else did. Designed in the ’60s, the Zenith Defy lineup was a distinctive collection in a sea of retro timepieces. However, they were built for one purpose: survival. Zenith wanted to make the most resilient Swiss watch of its time, and they made sure that no stone was left unturned.  The vintage goodness that is the Zen...

No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy Fratello
Oct 9, 2024

No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy

Let me put it this way: if you want a crown on the dial, looking at a shield instead doesn’t cut it. Luckily, the “Age of Alternatives” seems to have ended. Yes, some references still play hard to get, but more and more watches that were in high demand over the last few post-COVID years […] Visit No Alternatives: Why Buying A Watch In Place Of Another Is A Fallacy to read the full article.

Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour Oct 8, 2024

Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models

Louis Vuitton isn’t exactly a newcomer to the luxury watch market. However, in the past two years, we’ve seen a marked change in the fashion house and how it approaches watches. In 2023, the Tambour reappeared in its most competitive form yet, bearing an integrated bracelet. Earlier this year, a slightly dressier Escale rejoined the […] Visit Daily Drivers: The Louis Vuitton Tambour And Escale Models to read the full article.

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Reservoir Oct 7, 2024

Colorado Quality: Adventuring in Fort Collins and Visiting the Colorado Watch Company

There are very few states in the US where you can try award-winning coffee shops and breweries, go on a world-class hike, mounting bike a reservoir, and visit a watch manufacturer all in the same day. Colorado is one of those states-maybe the only one. The Colorado Watch Company has been created by the folks behind Vortic Watch Company to take full advantage of this unique offering. Colorado is a state that’s synonymous with the rugged terrain of the Rockies. It’s a state where breweries are seemingly as commonplace as bakeries, where music is heard among red rocks, and where cities sit a mile high. It’s an outdoor enthusiast’s dreamscape, where thrills are measured in vertical feet descended. It’s also now a state where you can add a visit to a functioning watch manufacturer to your itinerary. The post Colorado Quality: Adventuring in Fort Collins and Visiting the Colorado Watch Company appeared first on Worn & Wound.

H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Oct 7, 2024

H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds

The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...

Hands-On With Artem Nylon Watch Straps Fratello
Tudor Submariner Oct 6, 2024

Hands-On With Artem Nylon Watch Straps

Due to my smaller wrists, I tend to wear custom-size straps and adjusted bracelets. However, there are other options. The Artem nylon watch straps are a cut above typical offerings. I’ve paired one with a vintage Tudor Submariner for today’s review, and I’ll answer why it’s worth selecting a premium nylon strap over a flimsy […] Visit Hands-On With Artem Nylon Watch Straps to read the full article.

The Petrolhead Corner – The Bugatti Baby II Tourbillon Is A Hand-Built Driveable Miniature Of A Legendary Race Car Monochrome
Oct 5, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner – The Bugatti Baby II Tourbillon Is A Hand-Built Driveable Miniature Of A Legendary Race Car

Don’t worry, there’s nothing wrong with your phone or computer, and your eyes are not deceiving you. This is actually a Bugatti Type 35, just, smaller. Built by Hedley Studios in the UK, this Bugatti Baby II Tourbillon is an extremely detailed masterpiece celebrating the new direction of Bugatti, taking inspiration from the past 115 […]

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Oct 3, 2024

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space

Any day that a new Speedmaster is introduced made out of a material other than Bioceramic is a good day. That’s one of the indisputable laws of watch media, and we’re seeing it play out right before our eyes with the release of the new First Omega in Space Speedmaster. This is, of course, the second First Omega in Space, following the discontinued first First Omega in Space, a tribute to the…first Omega in space, which happened to be a reference CK2998 Speedy on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra. That original FOiS release was a fan favorite Speedmaster for the entirety of its production run, which ended about four years ago.  The Speedmaster has developed a reputation with watch collectors as a classic that hasn’t changed a whole lot over the course of several decades of small iterations. While that’s certainly true when you look at the slow progression of the Speedy over the course of many years, the power of the FOiS was always in how it showed the clear contrasts between very early Speedmasters and the most modern examples in the catalog. Because of course there are changes from the Speedys of the 60s compared to those of today, and they really come through when you can view them side by side. The FOiS, as a vintage reissue, really made the most of this, offering a very clear alternative to collectors who might have a preference for vintage aesthetics but not want to actually own a vintage example of the watch.  The new First Omega in Space is very much ...

Omega Launches New Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” With Cal. 3861 Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Launches New Speedmaster “First Oct 3, 2024

Omega Launches New Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” With Cal. 3861

If you thought Omega had reached its limit with vintage Speedmaster reissues, think again. Meet the latest revival in the iconic line: the new Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space Anniversary Series. Powered by the cutting-edge Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 3861, this release isn’t just about the movement-it's a nod to a bygone era, with a twist.

It’s Official: Rolex Is Out, And LVMH Is In  - The Arnault-Led Luxury Group Lands A 10-Year Partnership With Formula 1 Fratello
TAG Heuer through Formula 1 but Oct 3, 2024

It’s Official: Rolex Is Out, And LVMH Is In  - The Arnault-Led Luxury Group Lands A 10-Year Partnership With Formula 1

It’s been a rumor for quite a while, so the fact that Rolex is out and LVMH is in as of next year didn’t come as a surprise. Maybe the length of the firm 10-year contract is. In addition, LVMH won’t promote just the historically correct watch brand TAG Heuer through Formula 1 but also […] Visit It’s Official: Rolex Is Out, And LVMH Is In  - The Arnault-Led Luxury Group Lands A 10-Year Partnership With Formula 1 to read the full article.

The Nomos Tangente Gains a Double Date SJX Watches
Nomos Tangente Gains Oct 3, 2024

The Nomos Tangente Gains a Double Date

Nomos gently upgrades its classic wristwatch with a new calibre and double-date display: the Tangente 2date retains the signature Tangente design but with the addition of a quickset, twin date display. The same date is indicate twice, on the date disc at six o’clock and then again with a pair of brackets on the date scale located on the dial’s periphery. It’s powered by the DUW 4601, a new calibre that’s based on Nomos’ longstanding Alpha movement. Initial thoughts The Tangente 2date is essentially another iteration of a familiar model, inside and out. Though it still makes appealing, well-priced watches, Nomos hasn’t introduced anything truly novel in some time, and the Tangente 2date reflects that. As the name implies, the only novel element is the double date display that adds detail to the dial, which is fairly stark in its original iteration. At the same time, the date is useful in filling the excess space on the dial that results from the small movement relative to the case. However, the double date is redundant in terms of functionality, and from that perspective, feels gimmicky. The view from the back is appealing, with the extra-wide date module forming a decorative ring around the base movement. The DUW 4601  movement, however, is not exactly novel. Though Nomos describes the calibre as “newly developed”, the DUW 4601 employs the basic architecture of the Alpha, which in turn was a reworked Peseux 7001. In fairness, the DUW 4601 is substantially ...

The Decline In Desirability Is A Good Thing For Veritable Watch Enthusiasts Fratello
Oct 2, 2024

The Decline In Desirability Is A Good Thing For Veritable Watch Enthusiasts

While enjoying a coffee at a family restaurant, Walter Sobchak told Jeffrey “The Dude” Lebowski, “You want a toe? I can get you a toe. Believe me. There are ways, Dude. You don’t wanna know about it; believe me. Hell, I can get you a toe by 3:00 this afternoon - with nail polish.” Now […] Visit The Decline In Desirability Is A Good Thing For Veritable Watch Enthusiasts to read the full article.

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling B01 Oct 2, 2024

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph

The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone.  When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional Oct 1, 2024

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional

On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.

Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19 Fratello
Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Oct 1, 2024

Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19

Here in the Netherlands, it seems the cusp of winter is upon us. Last week, we were still enjoying the summer weather in T-shirts and shorts. Right now, though, I’m wearing jeans, a shirt, and a merino wool vest, and I’m still cold. We simply skipped the fall season completely and went from 25 degrees […] Visit Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19 to read the full article.

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Rolex Submariner Sep 30, 2024

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver

I’d be hard-pressed to name a watch more iterated upon in the last few years than Zodiac’s Sea Wolf. The retro-inspired diver has been at the heart of a true brand renaissance and was at the forefront of the vintage revival movement that has so characterized the watch world over the last decade. Today, Zodiac is looking back to one of its earliest dive watches with the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691. There is, as with most things watch-related and pre-internet, some debate as to the initial launch date of the Zodiac Sea Wolf, but regardless of the date, there’s no doubt that Zodiac released the Sea Wolf as part of the first wave of dive watches back in the 1950s, but while watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster 300 soared (or dove), the Sea Wolf fell into the background - obscured to all but the most devoted watch enthusiasts alongside other early generation dive watches like the Eterna Kon-Tiki and Enicar Sherpa-Dive. By the time I got into watches in the early 2010s, the Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the great secrets of the enthusiast world. Great examples could be had for a few hundred bucks, so for not much money, you could have a great-looking vintage dive watch with some real history. That all started to change when Zodiac, under the larger umbrella of Fossil Group, revived the Sea Wolf in 2015. The Zodiac Sea Wolf was immediately brought to the center of the horological world and has continued to stay relevant in t...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Fratello
Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase Last Sep 29, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase

Last week’s Sunday Morning Showdown saw two very dressy watches pitted against each other. We continue the formal streak this week but in a much more wallet-friendly manner. These two dressy numbers were positively received here at Fratello, even if they don’t represent the ultimate in horology. The big question today is: if you want […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Raymond Weil Millesime Vs. Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Moonphase to read the full article.

#TBT Going Green With The Vintage Bulova Spinnaker Ref. 7203 Fratello
Bulova Spinnaker Ref 7203 I Sep 26, 2024

#TBT Going Green With The Vintage Bulova Spinnaker Ref. 7203

I don’t know if it’s because summer officially ended or if it’s these past two weeks of heavy rain here in Europe, but the urge for a colorful dial won me over. Besides that, I stumbled upon an interesting green-and-white-dial Bulova Spinnaker this week… I got a new hairdo yesterday. I needed it badly. The […] Visit #TBT Going Green With The Vintage Bulova Spinnaker Ref. 7203 to read the full article.

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Perpetual Sep 26, 2024

Franck Muller Introduces the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition

Southeast Asian retailer Sincere Fine Watches is marking its 70th anniversary with a series of limited editions, with the latest being the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, equipped with a hand-wind, seven-day movement. The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition features a case and movement bridges of Damascus steel, a pattern-welded alloy composed of two types of steel that create a distinctive grained surface. Limited to 28 pieces, it follows Sincere’s prior anniversary editions, including the Laurent Ferrier Grand Sport Tourbillon and H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD. An exotic alloy The Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition combines the trademark Franck Muller tonneau-shaped case, an unusual case alloy, and one of the brand’s more interesting movements, a skeleton calibre with a seven-day power reserve. The Vanguard case is an evolution of the classic Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex, with modern lines echoed in the movement, which has a geometric and linear bridge layout. The case, crown, buckle, and movement bridges of the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition are made of an unusual steel alloy known as Damascus steel, or wootz steel. The material gets its name from the ancient high-quality steel used for bladed weapons over a thousand years ago. The modern-day Damascus steel employed here is created with powder metallurgy, namely mixing various steel powders before ...

Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Blancpain Sep 26, 2024

Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Review

Back in the 1950s, Blancpain produced about a dozen chronographs for the United States Air Force. While these were never commercially produced, they are now highly sought-after collector’s pieces. In fact, I don’t think there has been one offered on the market since 2019 when one went at auction for about $150,000. It’s hard to guess what it would fetch in today’s market, but considering hammer prices for limited-run pieces with this kind of historical provenance, I would venture to say it would be quite a bit more. So, with such an attractive and storied Flyback Chronograph in its archives, it was no surprise 2019 also saw the release of Blancpain's limited-edition Air Command Flyback Chronograph reissue, followed by a titanium iteration done in blue/back in 2021. This was followed by the introduction of a 36mm case joining the existing 42.5mm model which-while less true to the 42mm of the original- made a splash with collectors who have found themselves fatigued with beefier cases. Now Blancpain has released a limited-edition pair of these titanium Air Command watches in an excellent camouflage green with options in both smaller and larger case size. While I was only able to get my hands on the smaller Blancpain Air Command in the 36.2mm wide case, I have actually tried on the previous blue model in the larger case and found myself preferring this more compact size. It’s been a while since I checked my wrist circumference (yes, watch nerds sound crazy to ...

The New Genus GNS2 Is The Perfect Example Of The Evolution Of Watch Species Fratello
Sep 25, 2024

The New Genus GNS2 Is The Perfect Example Of The Evolution Of Watch Species

Do you want to dazzle or be functional? If the first is your goal, creating a unique-looking, complicated watch with equally unique features is the way to go. If you opt for the second, it’s all about sober functionality. When Genus released its first creation in 2019, the GNS1, the small independent brand wanted to […] Visit The New Genus GNS2 Is The Perfect Example Of The Evolution Of Watch Species to read the full article.