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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357 As Aug 13, 2026

Hands On: Breguet Classique Tourbillon 7357

As it undergoes a late-in-life rejuvenation, Breguet has been steadily updating models long in its catalogue, including its range of tourbillon watches. The Classique Tourbillon 7357 is the long overdue evolution of the 3350/3357 that was introduced way back in 1989. Upgraded inside and out, the 7357 is the new entry-level offering amongst Breguet’s tourbillon watches, but it is now more obviously haute horlogerie with a new look and a new(ish) movement. The details and finishing of the 7357 illustrate Breguet’s manufacturing quality, despite being based on a model from three decades ago. The 7357 is available in Breguet gold or platinum (pictured here) Initial thoughts The 7357 is essentially the 3357, upgraded in every respect. Even though the watch pictured is a prototype, and not perfectly clean, the improvements in finishing, materials, and construction are obvious. Compared to the competition, the 3357 was arguably out of date even 20 years ago; in contrast, the 7357 is competitive. The decoration has jumped several steps upwards, which is most visible on the front with a refined tourbillon bridge. While the movement architecture is based on the Lemania cal. 387 of the 3350/3357, it now boasts a longer power reserve and non-magnetic hairspring amongst other upgrades. Like many of the other facelifted Breguet models, the 7357 adopts a new look but one that’s still recognisably Breguet – a gentle diversification away from the established Breguet wristwatch styl...

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Seiko Presage x Tradman’s Bonsai HCC009J1 Turns Pine Into Gold WatchRider
Seiko Presage x Tradman’s Bonsai Aug 12, 2026

Seiko Presage x Tradman’s Bonsai HCC009J1 Turns Pine Into Gold

Seiko has introduced the Presage Classic Series x Tradman’s Bonsai Limited Edition HCC009J1, a new mechanical watch built around the colour and texture of a Japanese pine tree. It is scheduled for release in September 2026 and production is limited to 2,000 pieces worldwide. This is not a simple green-dial version of an existing Presage. The dial, gold-coloured case and included accessories all connect to the bonsai theme. A dial shaped by an old pine tree Tradman’s Bonsai was founded in 2015 with the aim of presenting traditional Japanese bonsai in a modern way. For this collaboration, the main reference is a sanko-matsu pine that is said to be more than 150 years old. The textured Matsuba-iro dial is inspired by the bark and needles of an old Japanese pine. The dial uses a deep green colour called Matsuba-iro, named after pine needles. Its strong pattern is inspired by the rough bark of an old pine tree. Light catches the raised texture from different angles, while the gold hands, applied hour markers and printed text stand clearly against the dark background. There is no date window, so nothing cuts through the pattern. Gold colour without a gold case The 38 mm case and bracelet are made from stainless steel with a gold-coloured hard coating. It is important to be clear that this is not a solid-gold watch. Seiko mixes brushed and polished surfaces across the case and multi-row bracelet, then adds a fine pattern around the bezel for more detail. The case measures 12....

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Twelve on Time - PS Horology’s Peter Speake and his Personal Relationship with Time and Watches Monochrome
Aug 12, 2026

Twelve on Time - PS Horology’s Peter Speake and his Personal Relationship with Time and Watches

Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking, revealing […]

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Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium Aug 12, 2026

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium

The Greubel Forsey (GF) Balancier 3 topped our summer watch wish list thanks to its uncompromising craftsmanship and ergonomic form factor. Though not an altogether new watch — the model debuted in 2023 — the “baby blue” edition updates the formula with a dimpled finish on the prominent Y-shaped bridge that spans the dial. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey is one of the few artisanal independent brands that has managed to create a distinctive and compelling sports watch. While the style of the Balancier 3 might be an acquired taste for some — especially those who prefer more of a dial — the quality of make is obvious and the finishing is almost clinical in its perfection. This helps justify the steep cost of entry, even for an ‘entry level’ model like the Balancier 3. The Convexe line grew significantly during former CEO Antonio Calce’s tenure, from late 2020 to early 2024, as the brand prepared to scale. Fortunately, the brand pulled the plug on its growth plan and has subsequently reverted to a more balanced line-up, no pun intended. Beyond the blue colour, the primary element that distinguishes this edition is the dimpled finish of the titanium bridge that supports the hand stack. More than just a finish applied for its own sake, the matte treatment helps break up the monotony of mirror-polished elements on the “dial” and provides enhanced contrast with its own mirror-polished bevels. To achieve this look on titanium, the GF developed a new technique...

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Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow RX-7 FD3S Into a Limited Initial D Chronograph WatchRider
Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow Aug 11, 2026

Seiko Turns Keisuke Takahashi’s Yellow RX-7 FD3S Into a Limited Initial D Chronograph

Seiko has returned to the world of Initial D with a new chronograph dedicated to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow Mazda RX-7 FD3S. The model continues the manga’s 30th-anniversary celebrations after the earlier Takumi Fujiwara AE86 watch. Orders opened in Japan in early August 2026, while deliveries are scheduled to begin in late January 2027. Production is limited to 1,995 individually numbered watches, matching the year Initial D began serialization. The connection is immediately clear. This is not a standard Seiko with a small logo added to the dial. The complete colour scheme and several smaller details come from Keisuke’s car, while the official campaign artwork places the watch beside the driver and his RX-7. The Initial D collaboration links the Seiko chronograph directly to Keisuke Takahashi and his yellow RX-7 FD3S. Image: PREMICO. The yellow RX-7 on the wrist The bright yellow dial copies the most recognizable feature of Keisuke’s RX-7. A black tachymeter bezel provides strong contrast and gives the chronograph a clear motorsport look. Three black subdials use red markings inspired by the illuminated instruments inside the car. The RedSuns team name appears at three o’clock beside the Seiko logo, while the Initial D symbol is placed inside the lower subdial. The yellow dial, red instrument-style subdials and RedSuns logo refer to Keisuke’s RX-7. Image: PREMICO. One of the best details sits at 12 o’clock. Instead of a normal hour marker, Seiko uses a t...

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Happenings: Watch Week Aspen Returns For Its Third Year Hodinkee
Glashütte Original s latest watchmaking innovation Aug 11, 2026

Happenings: Watch Week Aspen Returns For Its Third Year

If you need another reason to visit Aspen this summer, Watch Week Aspen is returning for its third edition, taking place from August 13 to August 16. The long weekend is packed with endless opportunities to hear from industry leaders and see some exciting (and new) watches—and, of course, get outside and explore the town's charming alpine scenery. Best of all, the entire event is free and open to the public. The program kicks off Thursday with cocktails at the Gerald Charles Lounge inside Oliver Smith Jeweler, the event's founder, where attendees can trace renowned watchmaker Gérald Genta's legacy. They'll then have the chance to preview Glashütte Original's latest watchmaking innovation, followed by a presentation of rare watches at M.S. Rau and an expert-led panel about the pre-owned watch market and emerging collecting trends, in partnership with SYYNCH. New to this year's lineup is a 3K run that will take place Friday morning, led by Emmanuel Bütler, the U.S. Brand President of NORQAIN, through downtown Aspen. After breaking a sweat, attendees can join a session examining Hermès' Le Temps Suspendu complication, stop by a NORQAIN ice cream truck, and enjoy presentations on the Omega Speedmaster's heritage and A. Lange Söhne's "Lumen" collection. That evening, Avi & Co. will showcase rare releases from independent watch brands, including F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. L. Leroy will host a happy hour at the same time, where it will...

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Hands On: Grand Seiko “Hisen” SBGZ011 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Hisen” SBGZ011 Grand Seiko’s Aug 11, 2026

Hands On: Grand Seiko “Hisen” SBGZ011

Grand Seiko’s excellent dive watches may have stolen the show Watches & Wonders, but the waterfall-inspired Masterpiece Collection “Hisen” SBGZ011 proves the brand hasn’t let its next-generation Spring Drive rollout outshine its fine watchmaking project — the Micro Artist Studio. While best known for the Credor Eichi II, and some of the finest chiming wristwatches yet made, the Micro Artist Studio’s work for Grand Seiko is perhaps even better, and though its resplendent movements can be found in more subtle watches, the “Hisen” is just as decadently decorated outside as it is within. Initial thoughts Last year, Grand Seiko kicked off a streak of hits, launching the compact and precise Spring Drive SLGB003, on a quick-adjust bracelet. This year the brand launched an even deadlier duo of mid-sized Spring Drive divers, and probably has another commercial success on deck for next year. But in the background, the Shinshu Watch Studio, where all Spring Drive watches are made, continues its fine watchmaking efforts with the stunning diamond and Mozambique garnet set “Red Lion” ref. SBGD228, and the “Hisen” SBGZ011 reviewed here. Aesthetically, it is my least favorite of the four engraved-case models the brand has produced in recent memory — my favourites being the SBGZ001 “Snowflake” the astral SBGZ007 — due to the dial being too busy. However, the engraved 44GS case is almost magical, reminding me of the Quartz VFA ref. 3823-7030 and 3820-6000. L...

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Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5227G-015 “Rose Aug 11, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5227G-015 “Rose Gilt”

Patek Philippe’s headline launches this year included the surprising Celestial ref. 6105G and Nautilus 50th anniversary editions, but also more classical, yet under-the-radar, watches, like the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015 with a “rose-gilt” dial and hinged case back. Though the Calatrava ref. 5227 with its distinctive “officer’s case” has been in the catalogue for well over a decade, the latest iteration is the best yet. The combination is somewhat formulaic – “salmon” dial and white gold case – but it is good looking and evocative of old-school Patek Philippe dress watches. At the same time, this new variant of the ref. 5227 contains a latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts Ironically two of the standout launches by Patek Philippe during Watches & Wonders were fairly basic, essentially facelifts of references that have been in the catalogue for decades. One was the ref. 5396R-016 Annual Calendar, and the other is this, the Calatrava ref. 5227G-015. Though both are entirely different in function and price, they are similar in style. The designs are both restrained and evocative of vintage Patek Philippe watches; both also have dials in popular shades. “Salmon” is definitely overdone as a dial colour, but it doesn’t stop this Calatrava from being really appealing. The ref. 5227 is typical Patek Philippe in form. Even though it’s at the larger end of the range for Calatrava models, it still feels elegant. The case is thin and sits fla...

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Arcanaut Introduces Fordite 2.0, Now Fully Customizable Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 10, 2026

Arcanaut Introduces Fordite 2.0, Now Fully Customizable

Arcanaut, the Scandinavian indie known for their innovation with and unusual use of uncommon dial materials, has announced a major update to their signature watch. The Arc II Fordite, a personal favorite of mine and a watch I’ve proudly owned for a number of years, has been rethought as a bespoke piece, customized by each individual owner in a number of ways. Some of the options available feel like natural evolutions for the line based on a number of things we’ve seen from the brand in recent years across other projects, but a few are genuinely surprising.  When purchasing an Arc II Fordite from Arcanaut directly, the customer is brought to their Fordite Configurator, which first asks for their choice in dial. This, of course, is the heart of a Fordite watch as every dial is inherently unique (they are made from paint drippings from American auto factories). Prospective owners have always been able to choose their dial of course, but the watches have been sold as finished products. The new process centers the dials and the surprising ways they vary in appearance, and asks customers to think about how best to complement it.  The most welcome new development in the new Fordite process is the ability to pick from multiple cases. A total of four options are available, in “Standard” and “Skeleton” varieties, coming in at 40.5mm (the original size) or a new 37mm diameter. A smaller size should be exciting news to many as the 40.5mm case can wear quite a bit larger ...

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CASIO A100WE: A Retro Digital Watch Under $100 WatchRider
Casio A100WE Aug 10, 2026

CASIO A100WE: A Retro Digital Watch Under $100

If you are looking for a digital watch that combines vintage aesthetics with everyday practicality, the Casio A100WE series is one of the most interesting options on the market. Released as a modern tribute to a very specific piece of Casio history, the A100 line stands out because of its unique front-button layout and retro-futuristic case design. Whether you are a seasoned watch collector or someone who simply wants a reliable timepiece, the A100WE series offers variety, comfort, and affordability. In this comprehensive guide, we will break down the history of this design, review every color and model available, highlight the standout green resin model, and explain all the technical features you need to know. The History Behind the Design: The F-100 Legacy To understand the Casio A100WE, you have to look back to 1978. That year, Casio released the F-100. It was a notable release because it was the first Casio watch to feature a case made entirely of resin, making it incredibly lightweight and affordable. However, the F-100 is best remembered today for its appearance in pop culture. A modified version of the Casio F-100 was worn by the character Ellen Ripley (played by Sigourney Weaver) in the 1979 science fiction movie Alien. The F-100 was eventually discontinued, making original models rare and highly sought after by collectors. Decades later, Casio introduced the A100WE series. This modern reissue keeps the exact case shape and front-button layout of the original F-100...

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Moonwatch or Snoopy? Omega Speedmaster head-to-head (feat. Fratello’s R.J. Broer) Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster head-to-head feat Fratello’s Aug 10, 2026

Moonwatch or Snoopy? Omega Speedmaster head-to-head (feat. Fratello’s R.J. Broer)

Episode 3 of Four New Ways to Fly to the Moon — and this one took a detour we didn’t plan. Andrew and Justin were set to go head-to-head on the classic Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch versus the blue Snoopy Speedmaster — the unimpeachable just-means-business OG versus the playful, sadly not so easy to score … Continued

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In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy SJX Watches
Aug 10, 2026

In Depth: Louis Cottier’s Legacy

Sometime around 1949, in a workshop above a stationer’s shop in Carouge, Louis Cottier built a worldtime watch out of a piece of cardboard. Movado had asked him to fit their famous Ermeto — a small purse-watch that was wound by opening and closing its case — with a device to read the hour in any country. What Cottier delivered was a piece of card: two columns listing the 12 antipodal city pairs, with a sliding paper scale of hours. Open the case, slide the scale, read New York against Rome. It was ingenious to a fault. Movado’s verdict was blunt, and fair: it ignored the running of the watch entirely and “…could just as well be made on an address-book or a diary,” they wrote on February 4, 1950. The brand concluded that “Nobody would want to carry such a piece.” The 1949 World Time cardboard maquette proposed to Movado. Image – SJX composite/Musée d’art et d’histoire de Genève The cardboard maquette survives, in an archive of some 260 items — letters, patents, notebooks, photographs, a school exercise book, a golf-scoring mechanism — that comprise the most complete record we have of the man the watch world calls the father of the worldtimer. But the story revealed by this evidence is more nuanced than Cottier’s reputation suggests. The legend, briefly The received Louis Cottier is easy to summarise, because everyone summarises him the same way. He was born in Carouge in 1894, and trained in Geneva. After losing his job in the aftermath of th...

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SJX Podcast: Independent Watchmaking Retrospective SJX Watches
Franck Muller Aug 10, 2026

SJX Podcast: Independent Watchmaking Retrospective

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days — which will feature 71 brands, many of them independent — episode 49 of the SJX Podcast looks back at how independent watchmaking became the phenomenon it is today. SJX and Brandon trace its evolution from 1970s pioneers like George Daniels and François-Paul Journe through the arrival of Daniel Roth, Philippe Dufour, and Franck Muller. The conversation also examines the avant-garde boom of the 2000s, the renewed emphasis on traditional finishing, and the role of digital photography and social media in transforming a solitary pursuit into a global collecting community. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Hydroconquest Vs. Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Fratello
Longines Hydroconquest Vs Tudor Black Aug 9, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Hydroconquest Vs. Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome”

Good morning and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Grab yourself a nice cup of coffee and take a seat for a battle between two very popular divers. Last week, it was a fight between two Swatch group divers; this week, we pit Longines against Tudor. Both the updated Hydroconquest and the Black Bay “Monochrome” […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Hydroconquest Vs. Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” to read the full article.

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