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Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection Worn & Wound
Zenith Defy Collection Here’s Apr 13, 2024

Dive Watches are Back in the Zenith Defy Collection

Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again.  We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969.  The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...

Introducing – The New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Orbis Apr 13, 2024

Introducing – The New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon

Just unveiled at Watches & Wonders Geneva, the new Roger Dubuis Excalibur Orbis in Machina places the tourbillon at its core, evoking a design reminiscent of the 2022 Knights of the Round Table Monotourbillon DBEX1025. With knights in shining armour gone searching for a different place, this timepiece presents a fresh aesthetic, featuring contrasting concentric […]

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 GMT SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 13, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement. Initial thoughts Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro. While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment. The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours. Vintage-inspired and travel-ready The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the ...

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Versions Of Watches Introduced At Watches And Wonders - Featuring Tudor, Rolex, Cartier, And More Fratello
Cartier Apr 12, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Versions Of Watches Introduced At Watches And Wonders - Featuring Tudor, Rolex, Cartier, And More

Another Friday, another Top 5! This week, we selected more pre-owned gems that deserve our attention. But it’s not just a random selection of five watches. After a jam-packed week of releases at Watches and Wonders, we have seen many new iterations of existing models. That’s why we wanted to check the older generations of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Owned Versions Of Watches Introduced At Watches And Wonders - Featuring Tudor, Rolex, Cartier, And More to read the full article.

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Apr 12, 2024

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date

I don’t know exactly why, but Parmigiani Fleurier isn’t a brand we often discuss in the Fratello office. For some reason, the brand often passes just below our radar. Maybe it simply has something to do with the fact that its watches are out of budget for most of our team members. However, whenever we […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date to read the full article.

Introducing: The Updated Oris Aquis Date Range Fratello
Oris Aquis Date Range Apr 12, 2024

Introducing: The Updated Oris Aquis Date Range

In 2013, Oris released the Aquis Depth Gauge, which spawned a new collection of modern dive watches. This deep diver had a unique mechanical depth gauge, highlighting the brand’s ambition to create practical applications rather than superfluous complications. The Aquis was made a bona fide collection when the core design cues of the Depth Gauge […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Oris Aquis Date Range to read the full article.

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek Worn & Wound
Czapek Czapek & Cie has Apr 11, 2024

Introducing the Promenade, a New Collection from Czapek

Czapek & Cie. has been on a bit of a run, and they don’t appear to be slowing down anytime soon, at least if today’s new release is anything to go by. Czapek already had a hit on their hands this year with the release of the gold Antarctique at the end of last month, and now they are looking to plug what has been a serious hole in their lineup with the new Promenade collection. Until today, if I had asked you to pick a straightforward three-hander in the Czapek catalog, your options would have been limited to variations of the Antarctique. That’s definitely not a bad thing, but the integrated bracelet thing isn’t for everyone. The Promenade bridges the gap between the Antarctique and the Quai des Bergues, offering the Antarctique’s micro-rotor SXH5 movement in a more traditional package for the first time. While The Promenade may share its movement with the Antarctique, the case shape of the new collection is a clear evolution of the Quai des Bergues. The Promenade maintains a lot of the signature visual characteristics of the Quai des Bergues case, including the recessed case flanks, rounded crown guards, and contrasting sandblasted and polished finishing that set the Quai des Bergues apart. Of course, there are definite differences. The Promenade has slimmer bezels, a refined lug architecture, and a sloped chapter ring that all contribute to a ‘slimmer’ look for the Promenade when held up to the Quai des Bergues. This contrast is reinforced by the Promenade...

Introducing – The New Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic Collection Monochrome
Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic Apr 11, 2024

Introducing – The New Bell & Ross BR 05 Black Ceramic Collection

In watchmaking, lightweight and highly resistant ceramic has become a favourite material, embraced by most brands, such as Bell & Ross. Renowned for its extensive use in the aerospace industry, ceramic is a highly technical substance that aligns seamlessly with Bell & Ross’s design philosophy rooted in aviation. Inspired by aircraft instrument panels, the brand […]

Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Manufacture Apr 11, 2024

Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture

By now, Frederique Constant is famous for its no-nonsense Swiss-made watches. The brand’s Classics collection is at the forefront of its philosophy of offering high-quality watches at a relatively affordable price. This week, at Watches and Wonders, two of the collection’s models are receiving some significant updates and upgrades on both the inside and out. […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic (Moonphase) Date Manufacture to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 11, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Introduces The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

Every year at Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin graces us with one or two exceptional pieces that show the brand’s magnificent watchmaking tradition. This year, the brand releases the brilliant Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph that is part of the exclusive Collection Excellence Platine. This 50-piece limited edition was created specifically for collectors. It’s a very exclusive […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine to read the full article.

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel Monochrome
Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green Apr 10, 2024

First Look – The Handsome New Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green in Lucent Steel

The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2024

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black

Adding to the successful Monsieur collection, the Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition is essentially a new colour for an existing model, but nonetheless proves that Chanel is serious about watchmaking. Thoughtfully designed inside and out, the Intense Black adds racing-inspired cladding to one of the most intriguing watches from outside the establishment watchmakers. Initial thoughts Watches like the Monsieur serve as a reminder that good watches can come from unexpected places – even brands perceived to be “fashion” – and should be a wake-up call for those who think Chanel is just a maker of cosmetics and handbags. Technically competent and well designed, the Monsieur collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to its watchmaking programme. Like the original Monsieur Superleggera launched in 2021, the Intense Black Edition features a 42 mm case made up of a steel inner case with a ceramic cladding, hence superleggera, which is Italian for “super light”. In this respect, the Superleggera benefits enormously from Chanel’s ownership of G&F; Châtelain, which one of just two Swiss suppliers of ceramic watch cases. Despite the Intense Black moniker, the watch is only slightly more black than the 2021 original, which had a few red accents. In fact, they are similar enough that the yellow “Superleggera” script on the dial might prove to be the easiest way to tell the two versions apart. Though the two versions are largely identical, it i...

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details Fratello
Czapek Promenade Collection - Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details

A small brand like Czapek does not release a new product line often. That’s why every new one is special. Czapek found inspiration within its portfolio for the new Promenade collection. It fuses influences from the Quai des Bergues and the Antarctique lines. The result is a new line of watches that combines many details […] Visit Introducing: The New Czapek Promenade Collection - A Minimalist Approach Defined By Interesting Details to read the full article.

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models - PAM1405, PAM1466, PAM1543, PAM1507, And PAM1565 Fratello
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models Apr 10, 2024

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models - PAM1405, PAM1466, PAM1543, PAM1507, And PAM1565

Panerai has been affiliated with the prestigious America’s Cup since 2017. Additionally, since 2019, the brand has sponsored the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, regularly celebrating that connection with Luna Rossa watches. For Watches and Wonders 2024, we get five new additions to that yacht-racing-inspired collection. Let’s have a closer look. The new Panerai Luna […] Visit Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Models - PAM1405, PAM1466, PAM1543, PAM1507, And PAM1565 to read the full article.

Introducing – The Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns in 3 New Colours Monochrome
Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns Apr 10, 2024

Introducing – The Cartier Santos-Dumont Lacquered Returns in 3 New Colours

Cartier’s longstanding affair with the intrepid Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shows no sign of abating. Santos-Dumont’s request to Louis Cartier to create a timepiece that would let him consult the time without taking his hands off the controls resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904. Characterised by sleek geometric lines, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont model has […]

L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel Fratello
Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Apr 10, 2024

L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel

It’s been a lot of fun to witness the resurgence of Chopard over the past several years. It has transformed into a brand I look forward to hearing from during Watches and Wonders. For 2024, L.U. Chopard has brought us two gorgeous pieces in Lucent Steel. These watches, with their sector dials, will likely prove […] Visit L.U. Chopard Introduces Two New Sector-Dial Beauties In Lucent Steel to read the full article.

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGW002 Apr 9, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003

Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber.  The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic.  The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...