Revolution
Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Superbia
More daring than most, Roger Dubuis unashamedly names its latest flying tourbillon, the Excalibur Superbia, after one of the seven deadly sins.
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Revolution
More daring than most, Roger Dubuis unashamedly names its latest flying tourbillon, the Excalibur Superbia, after one of the seven deadly sins.
SJX Watches
Conceived to mark the brand’s founding in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange, the “Homage to F. A. Lange” 175th Anniversary collection is the centrepiece of A. Lange & Söhne’s debuts at Watches & Wonders 2020 in Shanghai. The commemorative line up is made up of three watches – spanning the price spectrum – all featuring Honeygold cases, special movement decoration, as well as dials that are new in either colour or material. And appropriately for the occasion, all three are from the 1815 line – named after the birth year of F. A. Lange – that is characterised by a pocket watch-inspired aesthetic with Arabic numerals. The flagship of the anniversary collection is the Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange”, a 50-piece limited edition variant of one of the most complex wristwatches made by Lange – it’s detailed below. The other two watches are explained in separate stories: the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold, and the more affordable 1815 Thin Honeygold. The 175th anniversary trio (from left): 1815 Thin, 1815 Rattrapante, and Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold As with the 165th anniversary watches of 2010, the new commemorative trio is entirely in Honeygold – including a Honeygold dial for the Tourbograph Perpetual. A gold alloy exclusive to Lange, Honeygold is a cross between rose and yellow gold. Because of its difficult nature, the metal has only ever been used for limited-edition watches because of its scarcity and price. According to Lan...
Deployant
A. Lange & Söhne presents a special edition “Homage to F. A. Lange” of 3 new models to the 1815 family - all in honey gold and special decorations.
Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne marks “175 years of precision watchmaking in Saxony,” with three watches “Homage to F. A. Lange” watches in their own Honeygold
Hodinkee
Two watches of a three-piece collection paying homage to F. A. Lange.
Hodinkee
An extra-precious extension for the core of the Overseas line.
Time+Tide
There is an endless succession of fads, curiosities and sensations on social media. @horomariobro is not one of them. And if you need to stop now and follow him, we’ll forgive you. His extraordinary macro photography and videography, coupled with insightful commentary on what his lens has captured, has hit Instagram with the force of a revelation. When it comes … ContinuedThe post Instagram macro photography sensation @Horomariobro joins us to explain his most popular posts, starting with Lang & Heyne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
“You don’t need a glass of wine to stay alive,” winemaker Gérard Bertrand states. “When you drink a glass of wine, it’s for pleasure, emotion, or sharing. We don’t have to make any more compromises with nature, the soil, or subsoil. My philosophy is to respect the ecosystem, biodiversity, and to leave a better planet for the next generations.” The so-called prince of Languedoc has been instrumental in elevating the image of this winemaking region. Find out how and why here.
Deployant
Grand Seiko introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph GMT in pink gold and a magnificent deep blue dial.
Revolution
Audemars Piguet unveils its first ever combination of a flyback chronograph and flying tourbillon mechanism with the newly minted Calibre 2952
SJX Watches
Having debuted its first online watch auction earlier this year, Phillips returns with the second instalment, Intersect, once again offering a cross-category selection spanning watches, art, and jewellery. Made up of 110 lots – a third are watches – the auction is live from now until 6 pm (GMT+8) on September 14. While the line up naturally features the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, it also includes watches from independent brands like H. Moser & Cie., Daniel Roth, and Urwerk, as well as a notably artisanal pair if Chopard L.U.C watches decorated with maki-e. Some highlights of the sales are included below, and the full catalogue is available here. [Full disclosure: Lots 97 and 98 were consigned by our founder SJX.] Lot 15 – Rolex Daytona ref. 116520 Having been overshadowing by its successor with a ceramic bezel (and other more recent sports models), the Daytona ref. 116520 is relatively good value in the world of Rolex sports watches. Interestingly, the ref. 116520 was the first Daytona to boast the in-house cal. 4130, and also the last to have a stainless steel bezel. The present watch is offered in well-preserved, “full set” condition, with an unusual extra – the Rolex Japan sticker on the case back once found only on Rolex watches sold in the country. It has an estimate of HK$94,000-190,000, or about US$12,100-24,400. Lot 30 – Urwerk UR-202 in white gold A pioneer in avant-garde watchmaking best known for its atypical displays of time, Ur...
Deployant
We had working prototypes of the Accutron Spaceview 2020 and the DNA on an extended period in July, and here is our hands-on review.
Hodinkee
Code 11.59 continues to evolve, with one of the most complex watches in the collection yet.
Time+Tide
I am beginning to run out of synonyms for the scope of Grand Seiko for 2020, with yet another impressive reference being pulled out of what seems to be a very deep hat. This time we are looking at the Grand Seiko SBGC238, a limited edition of the largest most angular case possibly ever from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Last year, self-taught watchmaking artisan and creative genius Hajime Asaoka decided he wanted to launch a more accessible range of watches to satiate those who loved his creations but could not afford them. The bespoke watches made under Hajime Asaoka’s name start at around $40,000 USD and take a year or more to produce. Kurono … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? Read this and you will wonder no more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For some, the idea of ‘luxury quartz’ is a complete contradiction. Since the decimation of the mechanical watch industry upon its widespread release, quartz movement technology has never shaken off that stigma that draws dirty looks from watch enthusiasts around the world. The truth is not as simple as a hero and villain, however. Once … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is a blue/black abyss for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In the aftermath of Geneva Watch Days, Elizabeth Doerr discovered some fun wristshots taken during the fair. As these mark a journey of sorts through the new watches – as well as models released throughout 2020 that our team hadn’t seen in real yet – she thought to share a few of them here.
Time+Tide
In a week marked by the one-millimetre revolution, Audemars Piguet has quietly tip-toed into the room and released a frosty breeze of a limited Royal Oak to everyone’s surprise. As if by magic, a new reference of the perfectly sized 39mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared on their website. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin (UN) excels at excellent in-house movements, even for its most affordable, time-only watches. Its watches cases, on the other hand, are typically straightforward – they do the job, but are far from fancy. Just launched at Geneva Watch Days, the Blast Tourbillon is a step in the fancier-case direction. Fronted by a strikingly facetted – and contrast finished – upper plate, the case of the Blast is novel without being too much (though it is a bit much combined with the “X” skeleton movement). And the Blast also sits surprisingly well on the wrist despite its large size. But true to UN’s technically-oriented watchmaking, the Blast is not merely new livery for an old movement. Instead the UN-172 movement within is a new calibre featuring an extensively skeletonised construction – that retains the “X” motif the brand is overly fond of – as well as the signature full-kit silicon oscillator. Initial thoughts The Blast combines an interesting case with an elaborate movement – automatic, skeletonised, and a tourbillon featuring a silicon escapement and hairspring – for not very much money as such things go. With the base model retailing for US$44,000 for the base model, the Blast is priced well. The case is the highlight – finished well and wearable despite its size. The Blast is a big watch at 45 mm in diameter, though it feels notably slimmer than its 13 mm height, partly due to the case height-to-diameter ratio. The fit is good for a wat...
Quill & Pad
The effect of the blue sapphire crystal bridge on the De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Sapphire Tourbillon is astonishing. It is simultaneously light, airy, and (importantly) blue. It reflects the light back in the friendliest of ways. It is De Bethune blue, but it is also translucent to reveal the layers below it. The layering makes it feel sculptural, unique, and complicated without becoming busy. And that is just one component. Find out what makes up the rest of this incredible timepiece here.
Time+Tide
Seiko in 2020 is like a bull incensed: never slowing, threatening in intent and thrilling to watch. Amongst the slew of limited editions across all of their ranges, one of the most attention-capturing is the Seiko SNE566P - a professional-grade diving watch in a sumptuous ‘root beer’ colour scheme, and available now only to Australians … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SNE566P is the new root beer in town, and it’s bigger, bolder and available to buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hermès introduced its first tourbillon, the Arceau Lift, in 2013, an early indication of the leather goods maker’s ambitions in technically-oriented watchmaking. The intertwined, double “H” tourbillon cage was modelled the wrought-iron door of the elevator in the Hermes’ fabled store in Paris at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, hence the name. Seven years later, the Arceau Lift has been upgraded to incorporate a minute repeater. The Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes is being produced in just two examples – each unique – in pink and white gold respectively. Initial thoughts While combining two “high” complications is impressive, the whimsical house style of Hermes is what stands out at first glance. Elements like the asymmetric watch case and open dial are simple quite quickly identifiable as Hermes. More subtle is the dial, which is surprisingly discreet until you spot it. It’s cleverly designed to incorporate the brand’s familiar horse-head motif that takes the form of a cut-out that serves to show off the racks and snail cams of the minute repeating mechanism. The H1924 movement within is high quality in both finish and construction, and also incorporates the equestrian theme with a barrel bridge shaped like twin horse heads. But it is produced by Manufacture Haute Complications (MHC), a respected but struggling Geneva-based movement specialist that has supplied the same calibre to H. Moser & Cie., Dolce & Gabbana, and Artya. So while ...
Revolution
Martin Frei, URWERK chief designer and co-founder walks us through all of the brand’s novelties in the year 2020.
Quill & Pad
Watching the news for spiking virus cases, with Geneva rapidly becoming Switzerland’s new hotspot, and deciding by the minute whether we would attend, three of our team members took the plunge and traveled to Geneva to experience the new watches first-hand. Here are our thoughts on the busy, “socially distanced” Geneva Watch Days, including our favorites, the watch we disliked the most, and what we would buy!
Time+Tide
If you were to travel back in time and ask a circa 2010 horological enthusiast what some of the big players in the mainstream watchmaking game were, there’s a fair chance that Raymond Weil would get a mention. However, a lot has happened in the subsequent decade that’s followed – it could even be argued … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Don’t be a philistine. If you’re going to own a watch in excess of $300, it should rate something of quality to keep on the wrist. We are fortunate to live in a time where the bar’s been raised in congruence with competition.
SJX Watches
Long a supporter of green charities, Omega backed a a number of initiatives, including the GoodPlanet Foundation and two island conservation projects in Indonesia. The latest is a partnership with Nekton, a non-profit oceanic research institute that is working on projects in the Indian Ocean. To inaugurate the partnership, Omega has unveiled the Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition, a pared-back take on its bestselling dive watch that features a matte titanium bezel insert instead of the usual glossy ceramic. The Seamaster 2 submersible operated by Nekton Initial thoughts More monochromatic than the typical Seamaster, the Nekton edition has an elegant yet sporty look that sets it apart from its ceramic counterparts. The titanium bezel is good looking, with the raised, polished minute markers contrasting well against the granular base. And it’s matched with a matte ceramic dial featuring red accents – always a good combination on a dive watch. That said, the look resembles the Rolex Yacht-Master in platinum and steel. Though finished differently, the materials used aren’t substantially more valuable, and neither is the Nekton a limited edition. But it still costs about US$1,000 over the standard model, making it less compelling in terms of pricing. Still, the watch is arguably good value relative to the competition, especially considering the solid technical features, namely as the Master Chronometer-certified and highly magnetism-resistant movement. Submersible-insp...
Time+Tide
During my visit to the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition, in my home town of New York City, I was fortunate to learn some lesser-known facts that have whet my appetite for the brand even more. Here is Part 2. If you missed Part 1, be sure to check it out here. 4. How the … ContinuedThe post 6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The launch of any new Rolex model this year is a hugely exciting event, but the complete overhaul of the Submariner collection is a moment in time that will be looked back on as the beginning of a new chapter in the history of one of the most celebrated watches ever. Typically, when Rolex moves … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 41mm no-date and the one-inch-punch the world is talking about appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Inspired by the blue hues of dawn over Mt. Iwate.
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