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Results for The Longitude Problem

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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game SJX Watches
Chanel J12 Coco Game Jul 29, 2026

Hands On: Chanel J12 Coco Game

This year Chanel celebrated games of all sorts, from chess to cards and even video games with the J12 Coco Game — a quartet of Chanel’s best selling ceramic dive-ish watch featuring pixel art renditions of the Mademoiselle herself. This haute joaillerie variant is the maximalist-chic final boss of the sub-collection, set with 5.88 carats of diamonds, and equipped with the same bulletproof movement and hardy ceramic construction that makes the J12 so practical — though without the useful bezel or date. Initial thoughts Every year I look forward to Chanel’s Watches & Wonders launches — more-so than I do many “real” watchmakers — and every year the brand graces us with a one-two punch of remarkable objects and whimsical watches, often related by a common theme. This year’s theme was games, and Chanel outdid itself with a multi-million-dollar, unique (and already sold) chess set as the halo piece. Downrange there are allusions to playing cards, dominos and Scrabble, and a quartet of video game-inspired J12s. The other three models in the lineup, from left to right: ref. H11063, H11091, and H11062. Image – Chanel Pixel art developed as a natural consequence of past technological limitations, but it remains popular, particularly among independent game developers. And I suspect these watches will appeal just as much to a generation — my generation — that grew up with indie games like Minecraft, Terraria, and Undertale, rather than retro pixel art games lik...

Heavenly Horology: Understanding Astronomical Complications SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Copernicus Celestial Spheres depicts Jul 29, 2026

Heavenly Horology: Understanding Astronomical Complications

All timekeeping is astronomical in origin. Perhaps for this reason, clocks and watches capable of reproducing the movements of the heavens in miniature have long ranked among the highest expressions of horology. Astronomical complications mechanically encode vast celestial cycles into concise visual displays. Such mechanisms featured prominently in the collections of European monarchs and nobles, and later those of the industrialists and financiers who succeeded them as horology’s most ambitious patrons. The Vacheron Constantin Copernicus Celestial Spheres depicts the elliptical orbit of the Earth around the Sun, resulting in a calendar of sorts read against the signs of the zodiac. Yet many astronomical complications are based on principles that have been understood for thousands of years, and are often simpler — mechanically speaking — than more commonplace complications like chronographs. The tension between their relatively straightforward operation and their profound historical meaning makes them difficult to place within the traditional hierarchy of complications. This calls into question whether such a hierarchy even exists. Time comes from above Long before the development of mechanical clocks, humans attempted to relate the passage of time to observations of the heavens. The rising and setting of the Sun, the changing phase of the Moon, and the return of the seasons helped determine when to plant, harvest, travel and perform religious ceremonies. A fragment ...

Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Midwest Celebration Yet Worn & Wound
Ming community-first atmosphere Jul 28, 2026

Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2026 Recap: Our Biggest Midwest Celebration Yet

Long before the doors opened on Friday morning, a line had already formed outside Morgan MFG. Some attendees had traveled across the city, others across the country, all eager to see more than 70 watch brands, reconnect with friends, meet the people behind their favorite companies, and spend a weekend immersed in watch enthusiasm. By the time the doors closed on Sunday afternoon, one thing was clear: this was our biggest Windup Watch Fair Chicago ever. Over three incredible days at our new home in Morgan MFG, Windup Watch Fair Chicago welcomed its largest attendance to date, setting a new benchmark for the event. Thousands of enthusiasts, collectors, industry professionals, and first-time visitors filled the show floor, creating the unmistakable energy that has come to define Windup. The move to Morgan MFG proved to be the perfect next chapter for Chicago. The spacious venue gave us room to grow while maintaining the welcoming, community-first atmosphere that makes Windup special. Flooded with natural light and just steps from Fulton Market, it quickly became one of our favorite venues yet. More than 70 exhibiting brands brought hundreds of new releases, fan favorites, prototypes, and limited editions for attendees to experience firsthand. Whether someone was buying their first mechanical watch or comparing the latest releases from independent brands, every table offered the chance to discover something new. Incredible Partners Helped Make It Happen A weekend like this sim...

Hands On: Singer Reimagined DualTrack SJX Watches
Singer Jul 28, 2026

Hands On: Singer Reimagined DualTrack

Having made its name with auto-racing central chronographs, Singer Reimagined recently debuted its first-ever GMT, the DualTrack. Retaining the aesthetic established by Singer’s chronographs, the DualTrack is a straightforward “caller” dual-time watch with a local time display and independent 24-hour ring. On the back, however, the DualTrack reveals its party trick: a manual wind movement with four visible barrels that combine for six days of power reserve. Developed by an unnamed specialist (that is probably Chronode), the ST5001 has four mainsprings spread out across the movement with the balance hoisted above them, making for an unusual construction and layout. Initial thoughts I like Singer’s original proposition of racing-inspired central chronographs, which are true to the brand’s origins as an offshoot of the cult Porsche 911 mod specialist, Singer Vehicle Design. The Track 1 chronograph was a good debut concept backed by an innovative movement. The DualTrack is similar, but simpler, more affordable, and also more practical. The DualTrack still has the retro-inspired, cushion-shaped case that’s approximately the same as that on the chronograph, making it a little chunky, but the size feels appropriate for a sports watch. It also feels good on the wrist; in contrast, the smaller Caballero with the same base movement feels too small. But instead of a central chronograph, the DualTrack has a pair of useful features: a second time zone and a long power reser...

Explained: Grande Sonnerie Click Wheels SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch Jul 28, 2026

Explained: Grande Sonnerie Click Wheels

A visual staple of grande sonnerie watches is a pair of large, highly finished and intriguing-looking click wheels. Continuing our exploration of various horological energy systems — including winding efficiency and the fusee and chain — we examine the linkage of ratchets, clicks and wide-toothed gears that comprise the winding works of some of the industry’s best chiming watches. A Patek Philippe grande sonnerie movement from 1915. One crown for two barrels The grande sonnerie is rightfully considered the pinnacle of chiming complications. With the ability to automatically sound the hours and quarters, a grande sonnerie requires heaps of power to keep it going over the course of a day. As a result, most grande sonnerie movements rely on a second mainspring barrel that is isolated from the timekeeping going train. The requirement for independent barrels stems from the different rates at which the barrels unwind. The striking works require a faster-turning barrel that’s only active for short periods, while the going train feeds from a slow and steady barrel. Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie pocket watch crafted by Philippe Dufour. As the barrels discharge unevenly, it makes sense that they cannot be wound in sync. Winding both mainsprings in sync would typically over-strain one of them since their winding states are rarely the same at any given time. Although the two barrels themselves are separated, they often share the same winding train. Now a signature of Vallée...

Happenings: Join Us For This Month's Hodinkee Happy Hour [RSVP Here] Hodinkee
Jul 27, 2026

Happenings: Join Us For This Month's Hodinkee Happy Hour [RSVP Here]

It's the last week of July, so that means it's time for another Hodinkee Happy Hour! This installment will be held at Watches of Switzerland on Green St in SoHo. Space will be limited, and we may have something new and limited to show you, so please RSVP below if you'd like to join for a couple of hours of excellent local beer, pizza, and a whole lot of watches.  Our Editor-in-Chief, James Stacey, will be there, along with members of the Hodinkee team. Whether you've been to several of our events or this is your first, we'd love to have you! It's a great, casual way to get to know members of the Hodinkee team and the watch community here in New York City. Date:Thursday, July 30, 2026, 4:30 - 6:30 PM Location:Watches of Switzerland, SoHo60 Greene StreetNew York, NY 10012 Click here to RSVP. 

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 27, 2026

BA111OD Introduces a New Version of their Chapter 7 Skeleton Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch

Swiss indie BA111OD has introduced a new version of their Chapter 7 integrated bracelet sports watch featuring a skeleton dial. BA111OD has quietly been building a reputation these last few years for challenging long held conventions about value and what can be expected at certain price points (they make tourbillons starting at around $10,000). While the brand was founded in 2019, the family behind it has a watchmaking lineage that goes all the way back to the 18th century, so their perspective is shaped by both traditional Swiss watchmaking values and modern design sensibilities. I’ll be honest, my first reaction to the core Chapter 7 watches when they were initially introduced was essentially a shrug of the shoulders. Certainly there was nothing wrong with it, but it seemed to me to be yet another integrated bracelet design, an idea that has quickly become generic in these years following the Royal Oak and Nautilus boom. Somehow, though, with the skeleton version of the Chapter 7, first seen with an anthracite PVD treatment, the watch seemed to come together for me. I’m a sucker for a well executed skeleton treatment on a sports watch, and BA111OD’s approach, with cantilevered indices over a solid rehaut surrounding the open dial, makes for a legible and easy to digest presentation.  Last week, BA111OD unveiled a new version of the Chapter 7 Skeleton with a natural steel finish that they say is inspired by the summer light in Neuchâtel, where the brand is based. ...

Introducing - Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2026 Monochrome
Union Glashütte Jul 27, 2026

Introducing - Union Glashütte Averin Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2026

For several years, Union Glashütte has celebrated its partnership with the Sachsen Classic historic rally through annual limited editions based on the retro-styled Noramis Chronograph. For the 23rd edition of the Sachsen Classic, taking place on 14 and 15 August 2026, the German manufacture shifts the spotlight to the Averin Chronograph, whose angular, assertive square […]

Seeing James Cameron’s Historic Rolex Deepsea Challenge Up Close Fratello
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Up Close Jul 27, 2026

Seeing James Cameron’s Historic Rolex Deepsea Challenge Up Close

I have seen a lot of significant Rolex pieces over the years, from steel Daytonas to military-issued Submariners and GMT-Masters that have literally flown around the globe (thank you, Cliff Tait). Now, I’ve also been lucky enough to see a Deepsea that went to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. I love museums, and the […] Visit Seeing James Cameron’s Historic Rolex Deepsea Challenge Up Close to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex Jul 27, 2026

SJX Podcast: A Rolling Rolex

In episode 46 of the SJX Podcast, we examine the Swiss watch industry’s June export figures, which confirm the strength of the American market and reveal the impact of the Royal Pop. The episode also explores Rolex’s unexpected activity in clockmaking, beginning with the brand’s patents for a traditional inclined-plane clock that was hiding in plain sight at Watches & Wonders. We also share impressions of the Rolex Submariner Desk Clock released late last year — a conservative-looking but impressively constructed object powered by an unusually sophisticated quartz movement. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Fratello
Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Jul 26, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a cup of coffee and a battle between two watches to start your day. For this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown, we have picked two chronographs from sister brands. Daan picked the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 “Bumblebee.” This smaller version of the Black Bay Chrono gained […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono 39 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.

New releases from Toledano & Chan, Citizen, Ulysse Nardin and more Time+Tide
Christopher Ward Jul 25, 2026

New releases from Toledano & Chan, Citizen, Ulysse Nardin and more

In the midst of the European summer, everything seems to slow down, except watch releases. They’re still going strong, with an even wider array of styles this week: conceptual work inspired by architecture from Toledano & Chan, affordable beach-ready pieces from Citizen and Christopher Ward, and more technically impressive models from Ulysse Nardin and H. … Continued

Does Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Watch Sizing? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Jul 25, 2026

Does Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas 34.5 Redefine Watch Sizing? (Hands-On)

Vacheron Constantin have bolstered their 34.5mm collection, but is ‘small’ the new ‘mid-size?’ Let’s find out! What We Love: A compact but unisex sizing Remarkable quality-of-life features Gorgeous red dial What We Don’t: A big ask for a small watch No Geneva Seal on the movement Can 34.5mm be considered midsize? Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 10/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 The effects of a shrinking watch world have been felt across all brands. No, not ‘shrinking’ as in fewer watches, but rather the growing trend towards smaller case sizes. Everyone from the highest levels of luxury to the most obscure microbrands has shifted to accommodate the change, and, as a result, it has redefined what constitutes a ‘small’, ‘medium’, or ‘large’ watch. This isn’t an uncommon occurrence in the industry. In the past, even 40mm designs were often referred to as ‘jumbo’. As proportionality has become a greater priority for consumers, it has become just as important for watch brands. Vacheron Constantin, despite its age, has proven remarkably adept at responding to these shifts. In 2023, the brand introduced a new 34.5mm size to its flagship Overseas collection. Sitting between the significantly smaller 30mm models and the more traditionally masculine 41mm cases, the 34.5mm joins the collection as its ‘mid-size’ offering. It’s an unusual size for a watch, especially one positioned as the middle ground within...

Gear Guide: Nine Safety Essentials for Every Solo Hiker Worn & Wound
Jul 24, 2026

Gear Guide: Nine Safety Essentials for Every Solo Hiker

Wilderness exists outside the scope of human influence. Weather, trail conditions, and wildlife are some of the reasons we seek experiences outdoors, but they are always the most unpredictable aspects. When it comes to preparedness and hiking gear, it can be hard to determine the right mix of useful items to bring on an excursion and what might unnecessarily occupy precious space in a bag. As a Coloradan who enjoys being outside, I find myself thinking about these things at the start of every summer – and my pack has certainly evolved along with my experience. Yet, I also find myself influenced by EDC culture telling me “this one gadget could save my life.” In late May, I sought out an opportunity to learn what I should actually prioritize when I head to the trail. The weekend was spent crammed in a frigid office building with thirty people and countless CPR dummies. Over a period of sixteen hours, I learned how to conduct head-to-toe exams, assess and treat injuries, evaluate environmental hazards, and the skills needed to be a leader in a wilderness setting where professional medical care may be hours away. I finished the course with a shiny new Wilderness First Aid (WFA) badge, a re-upped CPR/AED certification, and a bit more confidence in how to pack a hiking bag. Above all, I learned that preparation is the only part of a trip we can control. A few weeks ago, I put that knowledge into practice as I headed six hours south to Taos, New Mexico for my first solo hik...

Citizen Garrison BM8560 vs TAG Heuer Autavia: An Affordable Pilot Watch Alternative? WatchRider
TAG Heuer Autavia Jul 24, 2026

Citizen Garrison BM8560 vs TAG Heuer Autavia: An Affordable Pilot Watch Alternative?

I own both the Citizen Garrison and the TAG Heuer Autavia WBE5116.EB0173, and the difference between them goes far beyond price. The Citizen Garrison uses Citizen’s light-powered Eco-Drive movement and a remarkably light Super Titanium case, while the TAG Heuer Autavia is a Swiss automatic pilot watch with a COSC-certified Calibre 5 movement, a 42 mm steel case and a distinctive blue smoked dial. One is accessible and practical, designed for easy daily ownership. The other is a discontinued premium model with strong aviation heritage. That makes this an unusual but revealing comparison. Can an affordable Citizen Garrison provide the same wrist presence, legibility and everyday enjoyment as a significantly more expensive TAG Heuer Autavia? And how much do the Autavia’s automatic movement, finishing, heritage and premium positioning actually change the ownership experience? In this comparison, I will examine their design, comfort, materials, movements, readability and real-world value. For anyone searching for the best affordable pilot watches, or wondering whether an affordable pilot watch alternative can compete with a premium Swiss model, these two watches offer a fascinating answer. Case Size, Quality, and Comfort Both watches are very well made, but I sincerely prefer the Citizen’s case. The TAG Heuer Autavia has the solid construction and clean finishing expected from a premium Swiss watch. Its stainless-steel case feels substantial, and the transitions between i...

A Real Gold Rush - Swatch’s Apollo 11 MoonSwatch Sets A Wild New Record: 1.2 Million Applicants For 1,969 Pieces Fratello
Swatch Jul 24, 2026

A Real Gold Rush - Swatch’s Apollo 11 MoonSwatch Sets A Wild New Record: 1.2 Million Applicants For 1,969 Pieces

If you thought MoonSwatch madness had finally cooled down, think again. Swatch CEO Nick Hayek has pulled off another headline-grabbing marketing masterclass, leaving the watch world in equal parts awe and amusement. To commemorate the Apollo 11 Moon landing, Swatch quietly opened applications for an ultra-exclusive edition of the MoonSwatch. The catch? Swatch is capping […] Visit A Real Gold Rush — Swatch’s Apollo 11 MoonSwatch Sets A Wild New Record: 1.2 Million Applicants For 1,969 Pieces to read the full article.

Five High-End Watch Collaborations I’d Love To See Happen Fratello
Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk UR-Freak late Jul 24, 2026

Five High-End Watch Collaborations I’d Love To See Happen

When I went hands-on with the Ulysse Nardin × Urwerk UR-Freak late last year, I walked away genuinely surprised, and that doesn’t happen to me much anymore. I never saw that partnership coming. Ulysse Nardin had never made a collaboration watch in its modern history, and Urwerk has always felt like a creative universe of […] Visit Five High-End Watch Collaborations I’d Love To See Happen to read the full article.

Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Time Slip Limited Edition Goes Black and Gold WatchRider
Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Time Slip Jul 24, 2026

Citizen Tsuyosa Shore Time Slip Limited Edition Goes Black and Gold

Citizen has added a limited-edition chapter to the sportier side of the Tsuyosa family. Reference NJ0238-57E is officially called the Tsuyosa Shore, but its textured gradient-black dial, warm gold-coloured accents and steel bracelet give it a noticeably more vintage character than the bright colours usually associated with the collection. A darker Tsuyosa Shore The theme is “Time Slip,” Citizen’s description of a design intended to feel as though it has travelled back from another era. The black dial has a grainy surface rather than a flat glossy finish, while the gold-coloured hands, applied hour markers and bezel scale add warmth without using artificial patina. A cyclops magnifier sits over the date at three o’clock, and the broad markers keep the watch easy to read. This is not simply a standard Tsuyosa with a different dial. The 40 mm stainless-steel case carries a 120-click, unidirectional rotating bezel, making the Shore look closer to a compact retro sports watch. Citizen specifies a thickness of 12.5 mm and a weight of 149 grams. The three-link steel bracelet uses a push-button triple-fold clasp and fits wrists from 142 to 206 mm. Built for everyday water use A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and both the hands and hour markers are luminous. Water resistance is rated at 10 bar, or 100 metres, so swimming and normal water-side use are within its remit. It should not be mistaken for a professional ISO-certified dive watch, but the rotating bezel, strong ...

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF2 Openwork SJX Watches
Jul 24, 2026

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF2 Openwork

Watch designer Franc Vila kicked off his comeback with the FVF1 skeleton tourbillon, which he then followed up with the FVF2, a non-tourbillon watch that likewise indicates the time and day. The FVF2 Openwork strips away the dial, giving the watch a more mechanical appearance thanks to the exposed under-dial works, revealing the jumper spring for the retrograde day indicator. The reverse of the Openwork is identical to that of the standard model. The manual-wind movement blends contemporary and traditional elements — the striking, angular design works surprisingly well as a canvas for haute horlogerie finishing. Notably, the FVF2 movement is also its case: the base plate is one with the case middle, an approach FVF describes as a “unibody” architecture. Initial thoughts Because the FVF2 was created by a designer, it has a unique aesthetic that blends many elements and inspirations. The look doesn’t overemphasise any singular influence, making it more interesting than most time-only watches on the market today, many of which converge on the same few historical styles. Even though the FVF2 is a little bit of this and a little bit of that, everything comes together well. The standard FVF2 has a dial, offered in a wide range of materials, while the Openwork version does not. That is essentially the sole distinction between the two, but it makes a big difference in terms of aesthetics. In this sense the Openwork is similar to Roger Smith’s open-dialled watches, especi...