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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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It’s complicated – the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite Jul 16, 2019

It’s complicated – the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel

Editor’s note: If big, do-anything, go-anywhere tickers are your jam, you’ll definitely want to check out the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel. This is a serious piece of traveller’s kit, and a good-looking one at that. Read on for Justin’s review …  The story in a second: It’s big, it’s complicated, it’s bloody clever. … ContinuedThe post It’s complicated – the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite in Steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chanel Watch Design Chief on Reimagining the J12 SJX Watches
Cartier before joining heading across Jul 16, 2019

Chanel Watch Design Chief on Reimagining the J12

Perhaps the most successful ladies’ watch design of the 21st century, the all-ceramic J12 made Chanel a significantly player in watchmaking. After a run of nearly 20 years, the first generation J12 finally bowed out at Baselworld 2019, where it was replaced by the new J12. Possessed of not just a new design, but a “manufacture” movement produced by a joint venture of Chanel and Tudor, the new J12 is a major event for Chanel not just because it will sell in vast numbers, but because it’s the first entry-level watch powered by proprietary movement. The man behind the revamp of Chanel’s star wristwatch is Arnaud Chastaingt, a modest man with a keen eye for detail who leads the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio. A graduate of two Paris-based design schools, the École des Arts Appliqués and Strate School of Design, Mr Chastaingt spent a decade styling watches at Cartier before joining heading across the city to Chanel. The Calibre 1 inside the Monsieur de Chanel Since starting at Chanel in 2013, Mr Chastaingt has overseen a slew of new designs, most notably the brand’s first in-house, high-end men’s watch, the Monsieur de Chanel (which really impressed me at its launch). Unlike most watch designers, Mr Chastaingt oversees the design of the entire watch, including the movement, explaining why Chanel’s own movements share a distinctive house style centred on repeating circles. I recently spoke with Mr Chastaingt explain the genesis of the J12. He wa...

New Release: Armin Strom Masterpiece 2: Minute Repeater Resonance Deployant
Armin Strom Masterpiece 2 Minute Repeater Jul 16, 2019

New Release: Armin Strom Masterpiece 2: Minute Repeater Resonance

Armin Strom makes a world premier with their new Minute Repeater Resonance: the Armin Strom Masterpiece 2. Press Release The Minute Repeater Resonance by Armin Strom, the world’s first and only resonance chiming wristwatch, offers two-in-one for double the pleasure. Two complications, resonance and minute repeater; two vertically-stacked independent movements; two forms of resonance (oscillatorsRead More

5 Instagram watch cliches that need to be cancelled, right now Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2019

5 Instagram watch cliches that need to be cancelled, right now

Ah, Instagram. That platform that sucks, according to my phone’s digital wellbeing section; well over an hour a day of my life into its colourful void. It’s a social media platform that might as well be made for watches - highly visual, and the wristshot is perfectly framed in that square crop. I’ve made some … ContinuedThe post 5 Instagram watch cliches that need to be cancelled, right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high Time+Tide
Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore Jul 14, 2019

A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high

Editor’s note: Beyond being one of the greatest tennis players of our time, Novak Djokovic is a pretty great watch ambassador. He’s been with Seiko since 2014, and over the years the watch he’s most often seen wearing (and occasionally lending his name to a limited edition) is the Astron. So, after he beat Roger … ContinuedThe post A winning watch – The Seiko Astron Novak Djokovic wore as he hoisted the Wimbledon 2019 trophy high appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sparkling in all the right places – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Rendez-Vous Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Dazzling Rendez-Vous Jul 12, 2019

Sparkling in all the right places – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Rendez-Vous

A decade ago, overtly feminine watches that combined beauty and proper horology were a rare thing indeed. (There are more of them today – although still far from enough.) And when Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Rendez-Vous collection in 2012 it really struck a chord. Here was a watchmaker taking women seriously, with good mechanical movements, elegant, … ContinuedThe post Sparkling in all the right places – Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Dazzling Rendez-Vous appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Why wristwatches are more relevant than ever Time+Tide
Jul 12, 2019

OPINION: Why wristwatches are more relevant than ever

In 2019, the President of the United States sends foreign policy updates live to your phone. You can order takeaway from a mountaintop, and toilet seats can perform health checkups. At first, this seems to be a net positive for humanity. However, it has made it incredibly difficult to disconnect from the world around us … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why wristwatches are more relevant than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The heavy-hitting Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509) Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Jul 12, 2019

The heavy-hitting Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509)

Editor’s note: For Daytona fans, everyone’s all about the Cerachrom bezels these days. And while it’s hard to deny the allure of that super-hard, slick material, I prefer my bezels metal, and preferably precious. Which is why I’m still so into this 2016 release, the Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509). … ContinuedThe post The heavy-hitting Rolex Daytona in white gold with blue dial (ref. 116509) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch

As you might have noticed (here, here and here), I’m quite interested in bulletproof watches being used in situations with bullets (figuratively). I enjoy, as much as the next guy, reading about the (somewhat theoretical) limits of well-made watches, if it be temperature, altitude or water pressure. But what I love even more is reading … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Trust in the Tool Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Jul 10, 2019

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Japanese Cherry” Pocket Watch

Contemporary Patek Philippe pocket watches are uncommon, and Rare Handcrafts examples – all of which are unique one-offs – are even more scarce. More objet d’art than portable timekeeper, only a handful are made each year. Sold at Sotheby’s late last year for almost US$290,000, the Rare Handcrafts ref. 982/159G “Japanese Cherry” pocket watch is a particularly delicate example of Patek Philippe’s enamelling. Rare Handcrafts pocket watches are often figurative or detailed in the extreme. This year’s line-up of pocket watches feature decorations that include a leopard, several landscapes, and a miniature of Vermeer’s The Wine Glass. The “Japanese Cherry”, on the other hand, takes a difference approach to its art; the decoration is simple yet vivid in colour and form. Unveiled in 2015, the “Japanese Cherry” watch was arguably the most important piece of the Rare Handcrafts collection that year, because the Japanese cherry motif formed the cover of the year’s catalogue. It’s a Lépine pocket watch, with the crown and sub-seconds arranged in a line (as opposed to a hunter movement that has them at right angles to each other). A plant synonymous with the country, the Japanese cherry produces the cherry blossom, or sakura, a cultural icon of Japan. On the watch branches of the cherry tree are depicted against a pale beige background. The branches are hand engraved in relief, with the individual cherries being bright red fired enamel with a g...

Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Review WatchAdvice
Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Jul 10, 2019

Tudor Black Bay GMT 79830RB Review

Introduced in Baselworld 2018, the Black Bay GMT is a new classic and bold timepiece by Tudor. This model is Tudor’s answer to GMT watches for world travellers. The Black Bay GMT owes its heritage to the Black Bay Divers watches of the 1950s. In 1954, Tudor released the first reference 7922. This was the first divers watch in the long line of legible, robust and ergonomic divers watches released by Tudor.  It was the famous American Architect Louis Sullivan that said that “according to whom, the form of an object must follow its function”. The early Tudor diver models perfectly resembled this saying as they laid down the foundations of aesthetic and technical watches that are ideal for divers. Since the first launch of the reference 7922, Tudor’s diver watches have had a constant improvement for sixty years. Each new model that was released by the brand would see unanimous recognition from professionals, such as some of the greatest military navies in the world.   The GMT function in the Tudor Black Bay GMT establishes local time without losing track of time in other time zones. The additional time zone is indicated by the red angular “snowflake” hand as described by Tudor. The characteristic snowflake hand is also used for the hour and constant second hand. This snowflake design first appeared in Tudor’s catalogue in 1969, which shows that although modernising the watch, Tudor still sticks to their heritage.  The bi-directional rotatable bezel on the Tudo...

Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Jul 9, 2019

Hands-On: Genus GNS 1 Wristwatch

While it’s a new brand that just made its debut, Genus is founded on the watchmaking talent of an industry insider who has spent a lifetime working on complications. Its first watch is the GNS 1 that tells the time with an ultra-exotic complication with the minutes travelling across the dial like a train. Conceptually the GNS 1 harks back to the burst of creativity that started in the early 2000s, when watchmakers went all out with imaginative complications to display the hours and minutes. This was the heyday of the Harry Winston Opus series and the birth of brands like MB&F; and Urwerk. The brand Genus was founded by entrepreneur Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, founder of GMTI, a specialist watchmaking workshop. The son of a watchmaker, Mr Billières started his career at Roger Dubuis in 1999, followed by a stint at Urwerk. In 2011, he set up GMTI, which specialises in primarily in assembly and servicing of complicated movements for major watch brands. Now staffed by 25 watchmakers, GMTI’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from tourbillon movements bearing the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, to time-only movements produced on an industrial scale. Telling the time According to Mr Billières, the GNS 1 is the realisation of his long-held ambition of creating his own watch, after spending his career doing it for others. The GNS 1 is essentially an exceptionally avant-garde display of the hours and minutes. Even when static the face is impressive...

Will this stunning Moser land in your hands on its #pioneertour? If you know watch people, there’s a chance … Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie have lit Jul 9, 2019

Will this stunning Moser land in your hands on its #pioneertour? If you know watch people, there’s a chance …

In yet another flash of creativity and marketing cunning, H. Moser & Cie have lit up watch lovers all over the world by sending out one of their watches - the Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition - on a tour with no road map. And absolutely no guarantee of whose couch it will be crashing … ContinuedThe post Will this stunning Moser land in your hands on its #pioneertour? If you know watch people, there’s a chance … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018 Time+Tide
Rolex 4113 Jul 9, 2019

The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018

Skeleton dials are interesting, not because they offer a garish look at something exposed but because they showcase the sheer level of complexity involved in modern watchmaking. Without searching for photos of the movement of your watch online, or doing a John Goldberger (and opening your million dollar Rolex 4113 with a cheese knife), the … ContinuedThe post The 10 best skeleton dials from 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute SJX Watches
Casio nally titanium it Jul 9, 2019

Up Close: Akrivia AK-02 Tourbillon Hour Minute

Last year’s Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain made its young creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, a star, but the brand’s foundational watch is actually the “AK” series. Chunky and slightly sporty, the AK watches are a world away from the classical styling of the Chronomètre Contemporain, but boast the same level of movement finishing, along with a bonus of elaborately hand-hammered dials. The second model in the AK series was the AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute, or “Hour Minute” – a time-only watch with a tourbillon regulator. The AK-02 is probably the finest finished tourbillon wristwatch in its price segment, and in the price segments above it as well. The AK case It’s a fairly large watch, with the case measuring 43.0mm with and 12.9mm high. But the lugs are short so it feels fairly compact on the wrist. And because the AK-02 is typically found in a steel case, as is pictured here, or occasionally titanium, it is usually lightweight. Gold cases are available for a modest premium, though rarely requested. The case feels like it’s trying too hard, and consequently feels overly built, with thick lugs and a high case band. It’s too chunky for my taste, and doesn’t quite suit the refined movement inside. That being said, the AK-style case has it fans for several reason. The design is distinctive, more distinctive than the old school Chronomètre Contemporain case. And it is also finished to a high degree, with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces; the...

Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jul 8, 2019

Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon

In a world overflowing with safe-and-similar watch designs, Franck Muller is a breath of fresh air. As in this ladies tourbillon (a recent addition to the Cintrée Curvex Collection), the confident use of colour, the beautiful balance of traditional and avant-garde, the refined details on the dial, and the voluptuous curves of the case have … ContinuedThe post Have a heart – the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex ladies tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication” which sold Jul 7, 2019

The Forgotten Most-Complicated-Watch-Ever Made for the Most Famous Banker Ever

The timepieces that held the title of “most complicated watch ever”, as well as their famous owners, are mostly well known – save for the long-lost English grand complication commissioned by banker J. Pierpont Morgan. Morgan was a great collector of watches, and his grandest timepiece was a double-dial, astronomical pocket watch made by J. Player & Son. It  was the most complicated English watch ever made, and perhaps the most complicated watch in the world at the time of its completion. Though Morgan’s watch has long been surpassed in complexity by other hands, and it bears the name of a defunct English brand, it has arguably the greatest provenance of all super-pocket watches. Unlike James Ward Packard or Henry Graves, who were both wealthy, accomplished, and little known individuals outside their fields, Morgan is still the best known banker in history; the biggest bank in the United States today bears his name. The grandest of all time But first, a brisk walk through the grand complication hall of fame. The most famous most-complicated-watch-ever is, of course, the Patek Philippe Graves “supercomplication”, which sold for US$24m in 2014 and still holds the record for the most expensive watch ever sold. Commissioned by American banker Henry Graves Jr in 1925, and delivered in 1933, the Graves pocket watch outdid the now obscure Leroy 01 that was sold in 1904 to a Portuguese millionaire. And it also surpassed the various watches produced for automobile ...

5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2019

5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology

As long as the internet and watch enthusiasts exist, there will be arguments about what the first watch on Mount Everest was. But rather than discussing semantic possibilities of the interpretation of 60-year-old advertisements, we wanted to look at a selection of Mount Everest watches (not just which was first). Smiths de Luxe   The … ContinuedThe post 5 Mount Everest watches that are literally high horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2019

In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel

Editor’s note: The year is 2019, and solid gold is worth less than steel. While this seems strange on the face of it, especially to those more recently in the horological hobbit hole, steel doesn’t look like it’s getting less shiny anytime soon. So taking a macro view of the watch buying landscape, gold pieces … ContinuedThe post In 2019, rose gold is looking like a steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sotheby’s Presents Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction Jul 6, 2019

Sotheby’s Presents Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction

To mark the 50th anniversary of the lunar landing – and the Omega Speedmaster’s moment of greatness – Sotheby’s has put together a Speedmaster-only auction that’ll take place in New York on July 19, 2019. A compact sale of just 50 lots, Omega Speedmaster: To the Moon and Back is dominated by vintage Speedmasters, including examples of every mainstream reference, meaning there is something for every budget – the most affordable watch in the sale is lot 31, a Speedmaster ref. 145.022 with a low estimate of just US$3000. Notably, all the watches in the sale have been “vetted by the manufacture”, and are accompanied by archive extracts. And the estimates are generally modest, reflecting the fact that the watches are mostly in good or strong condition, as opposed to being mint or “new old stock”. The top lot is an example of the first Speedmaster ever, the ref. 2915-1. Appearing quite worn but honest in the catalogue photos, it is lot 10 and has an estimate of US$150,000-200,000. And the watch is one of two ref. 2915-1 in the sale, with the other having a lower estimate in keeping with its condition. Lot 10 – Speedmaster ref. 2915-1. Photo – Sotheby’s Other “straight lug” Speedmasters in the sale include a few 2998s, as well as examples of the uncommon 105.002 and the more common 105.003 “Ed White”. With a lower estimate than the 2915-1 but but probably more interesting is the Speedmaster “Alaska III” prototype from 1978. One...

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 5, 2019

Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead

These are the conversations we all keep having lately. Much like our beloved Sandra Lane, I’m equally sick of the steel Rolex and Patek hype that refuses to die off (at least for now), and every time I hear of the obscene premium that people are still willing to pay for either the Nautilus 5711 … ContinuedThe post Can’t score that Nautilus or Pepsi? Here’s 6 watches you could buy instead appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Trilobe Les Matinaux SJX Watches
De Bethune Dream Watch 5 Affordable Jul 4, 2019

Introducing the Trilobe Les Matinaux

Jean-François Mojon, founder of complications specialist Chronode, has a client list that reads like a who’s who of independent watchmaking: from establishment names Hermès and MB&F; to revived brands like Urban Jurgensen. His latest creation, however, is one of the most affordable to date. Constructed for Trilobe, a start-up founded just three years ago by former banker Gautier Massonneau. The brand’s first collection, Les Matinaux – “The Morning” in English – derives its name from a poem written by French author René Char.  Novelty aside Built at Chronode’s Le Locle facility, Les Matinaux is designed to subvert traditional time-telling. Instead of conventional fixed indices and moving hands, the hands, or rather pointers, are fixed but the markers – on three separate chapter rings for the hours, minutes and seconds – are constantly in motion, and rotate counter-clockwise to boot. The concept is not entirely new, of course. This type of time display is most often used on digital-style dials with numerals shown either in a single line or within a window, as on the De Bethune Dream Watch 5. Affordable brands have done the same with quartz movements, including Klokers, which is sadly now defunct, as well as Lip with its Mythic Jump Hour Watch. In contrast, Les Matinaux does not have its indicators arranged in a linear manner. Instead, the trio of trefoils – trilobe is French for trefoil – seem casually scattered across the dial, so i...

Up Close: Cartier Astromysterieux SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak Piaget Tourbillon Relatif Jul 4, 2019

Up Close: Cartier Astromysterieux

In 2016, Cartier unveiled one of the most dramatic examples of an orbital regulator – the Astromysterieux – in which the entire movement was suspended in the oculus of the watch dial, mysteriously unencumbered by any visible support. The Astromysterieux sits in the same class of exotic regulators as the Ulysse Nardin Freak, Piaget Tourbillon Relatif, and Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital – and unsurprisingly, three of the four were conceived by the same watchmaker. Previously only available in palladium, the brand has now introduced a striking pink gold version with a black guilloche chapter ring. The dimensions of the watch remain unchanged – 43.5mm in diameter with a thickness of just 12mm, making it one of the thinnest, most elegant watches with such an unusual regulator. In the new pink gold version, the black guilloche chapter ring is paired with polished pink gold roman numerals and black Breguet-shaped hands, creating a remarkable contrast. But the true brilliance of the watch lies in the ingenious cal. 9462 MC, for which three patents were filed. The secret to the floating, mysterious movement is in the invisible gearing that is hidden behind the chapter ring. The movement is essentially baguette-shaped, with the minute hand fixed to the barrel bridge, and completes a full rotation on the dial in an hour. The central, carrousel tourbillon The basic idea of a tourbillon is to install the escapement in a mechanically driven platform in order to cr...

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 4, 2019

Breguet Introduces the Type 20 for Only Watch 2019

Among vintage military watches, some are more interesting and significant than others. They include the IWC Mark 11 and Rolex “Milsub”,  and also the early Type 20 chronographs made by Breguet for the French air force and navy in the 1950s. Breguet has revived the first-generation, military-issue Type 20 for Only Watch 2019. The one of a kind remake is faithful not just in terms of dimensions and aesthetics, but also the movement. Instead of a modern calibre, it is powered by a refurbished, vintage Valjoux 235 movement, just like the original. Breguet Type 20 “Only Watch” And a bit of nomenclature explanation before proceeding: “Type 20” refers to a French military specification for pilot’s chronographs, which refers to the original, military-issue watches. Watches produced for the civilian market, including the modern day models, are identified by the model name in Roman numerals – Type XX. The origins After WWII, Breguet was one of several watchmakers, including Mathey-Tissot, Airain, Vixa, Auricoste, and Dodane, that supplied Type 20 chronographs to the French Air Force and Naval Air Force. While the actual Type 20 specification has been lost, the general consensus is that it called for a watch a prominent seconds track, a 38mm-ish case with a screw-in back and thickness of not more than 14mm, accuracy of within eight seconds a day, and most crucially, a flyback chronograph with a start-stop function that would work reliably at least 300 ti...