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Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 17, 2023

Watch Complications: A Comprehensive Guide

A watch complication, by definition, is any function offered by a timepiece that is in addition to its primary function of keeping the time. Despite the name, watch complications don't really have to be, well, all that complicated: that date display you glance at before signing a check qualifies as a complication even though it's not nearly as complex and dynamic as, say, the split-seconds chronograph you use to time racing laps or the world-time function you consult before making a call home on an international business trip. Here we run down the major watch complications from the simplest to the most mechanically sophisticated, and provide an example of each. Date Complications: Date Window Probably the most common of “small complications,” this is simply a display of the date via a numbered disk that passes under an aperture in the dial, usually positioned at 3 o’clock, 4:30, or 6 o’clock. Unless the watch is an annual or perpetual calendar, this date will need to be manually adjusted forward at the end of any month shorter than 31 days. Some watches, like the Rolex Submariner, enlarge this display by placing a magnifying lens over the window. Large Date This one also goes by “big date” “grande date,” or “panorama date,’ and is essentially just a larger version of the standard date display, though it usually uses two date disks (one for the tens numeral and the other for the ones) rather than one, and a double window, with each numeral appearing in...

Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Competitively Priced and Approaching Perfection Quill & Pad
Aug 14, 2023

Lang 1943 Field Watch Edition One: Competitively Priced and Approaching Perfection

Lang 1943 is not a homage, it stands its own ground and can best be summarized as a beautiful tool. The first thing that the team at Lang 1943 got right was the proportions. A diameter of 39mm is spot on, particularly when the thickness is just 8.40 mm. This results in a timepiece that is comfortable to wear, large enough to be easy to read, but not overly bulky that it hinders movements.

We’re Living in a Society: Don’t Do This When Buying a Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 10, 2023

We’re Living in a Society: Don’t Do This When Buying a Watch

If you’re a regular reader of this website, you know that from time to time I find myself inspired to write about the state of the watch collecting community. Like all of you, I’m just a normal guy, who sometimes decides that it’s time to send a watch to a new home, and it’s off to the forums I go, with terribly lit photos and hopes of a quick transaction that doesn’t end in some kind of postal fraud incident. In the years I’ve been doing this, I’m happy to say that I’ve had many great experiences selling watches to strangers. But lately…lately, eh, I dunno. It kind of feels like things are going off the rails a little bit, doesn’t it? I’ve sold a few watches in the last couple of months, and, with apologies to @vandelayhouseofhorology, I’ve never felt more like George Costanza in that Chinese restaurant, reminding his fellow patrons that we’re living in a society. We’re supposed to act in a civilized way!  Maybe it’s just a run of bad luck, or perhaps karmic retribution for youthful indiscretions that have come back to bite me, but it seems like poor, sketchy, or downright inappropriate behavior is on the rise in the public watch trading forums. I’ve never been one to worry too much about getting scammed, or even having my time wasted, but in the current climate, it seems like you have your guard way, way up.  Before I go any further, I’ll say at the outset that in spite of some, let’s call them troubling, experiences trying to sell a...

Three Pilot’s Watches for Any Budget – Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29 Aug 6, 2023

Three Pilot’s Watches for Any Budget – Windup Watch Shop

Pilot Watches are an excellent option for everyday wear. They’re bold, legible, and have some serious history behind them. Right up there with the field watch, Pilot watches are iconic military-style watches which have carried over into the civilian world extraordinarily well. There are a few classic elements that make a watch a pilot’s watch, the most notable being a triangle index at 12, a large and legible hand set, and a case that rides on the larger side. Today, we’re highlighting three picks from the shop that scratch that pilot watch itch at any budget. Under $500 is Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29, at right around $1000 is the Laco Paderborn, and in the $2000 range is Oris’ modern take on the pilot’s watch. Let’s dig in and take a closer look. Pilot Watches are an excellent option for everyday wear. They’re bold, legible, and have some serious history behind them. Right up there with the field watch, Pilot watches are iconic military-style watches which have carried over into the civilian world extraordinarily well. There are a few classic elements that make a watch a pilot’s watch, the most notable being a triangle index at 12, a large and legible hand set, and a case that rides on the larger side. Today, we’re highlighting three picks from the shop that scratch that pilot watch itch at any budget. Under $500 is Seiko 5 Sports’ SRPH29, at right around $1000 is the Laco Paderborn, and in the $2000 range is Oris’ modern take on the pilot’s watch. ...

Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 Worn & Wound
Aug 4, 2023

Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023

The Windup Watch Fairs are a great experience for many reasons. You can see new watches, talk to people from the brand, maybe catch a live podcast or panel, and more. But one of the best things to do, when not engaged with a brand, is to walk around and keep your eyes on the wrists around you, as you’d be amazed at what you might see. In a room full of passionate and knowledgeable watch enthusiasts, there is likely a story to every watch on every wrist. Rare watches, new watches, valuable watches, sentimental watches, watches you never knew existed, and more. And, since you’re in a room of like-minded individuals, you can strike up a conversation, and it won’t be weird, like on the subway (don’t do that). Featured below is a small selection of the watches on the wrists of Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 attendees. As you’ll see, there was a lot of variety. From micro brands to luxury staples to high-end independents, just about every facet of the industry was represented. Stay up to date on future Windup Watch Fairs Images from this post: The post Watch Spotting at Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2023 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ | Revo Talks Revolution
Moritz Grossmann Aug 3, 2023

Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ | Revo Talks

Join Wei and Constant as they deep dive into the latest Grail Watch collaboration, Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ which showcases the incredible artistry of two of the brightest names in independent watchmaking. Grail Watch 9: Moritz Grossmann x Kari Voutilainen Benu 37 ‘Silver Bullet’ is housed in a […]

Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own Time+Tide
Aug 2, 2023

Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own

If you’ve jumped into the deep end of the watch collecting pool, you’ve probably accumulated a few tools for accomplishing minor tasks, such as changing straps and bracelets, installing new batteries in quartz watches, and general cleaning chores. At some point in your collecting journey, you’ve probably picked up one of those generic sets from … ContinuedThe post Frustration-free watch tool upgrades everyone should own appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Borna’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Casio n Aug 1, 2023

Borna’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

There are those rare times when the watch industry seemingly comes together to do something great, causing even the most devoted online trolls to retreat beneath their virtual bridges and save us from their dubious wisdom. One such occasion is the Only Watch charity auction, running since 2005 and created to benefit those affected by … ContinuedThe post Borna’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 30, 2023

D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

The Only Watch auction not only benefits a great cause (Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research), but it’s also an event that really lets watchmakers run rampant and show off their horological chops. It’s almost like the watch world’s version of the Met Gala, where designers can truly cut loose, free of the bonds of commerce, and … ContinuedThe post D.C.’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Richard Mille Jul 26, 2023

Richard Mille Watch Prices Explained

Barely more than two decades in existence, Richard Mille is one of the luxury watch industry’s most compelling modern success stories and one of the most popular and recognizable brands out there - despite the fact that it makes timepieces that are wildly inaccessible to all but the most deep-pocketed and well-connected aficionados. To many who follow the industry, the brand’s stratospheric prices are the story: In 2022, for example, Richard Mille did $487 million in sales, despite the fact that it only made 5,400 watches that year. Yes, that averages out to more than $90,000 per watch, and even that rather stunning stat doesn’t represent the big picture, as many of Richard Mille’s most coveted models come in at an MSRP in the neighborhood of half a million dollars or more. In its 2023 analysis of the Swiss watch market, Morgan Stanley reports that Richard Mille is now the sixth largest Swiss watch brand in the world in terms of sales, right behind Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe. So why are Richard Mille watches so expensive and what factors set them apart from every other watchmaker in the highest echelons of horology? Read on.  Origins: The Man Behind Richard Mille Watches The foundations of the Richard Mille watch brand reach back to 1988, when its namesake, Richard Mille, Head of Watchmaking and CEO of Jewellery at Paris-based jewelry house Mauboussin, met Dominique Guenat, owner of Guenat SA Montres Valgine, a watchmaker in the S...

Martin Green’s Top Ten Favorite Watches of Only Watch 2023 Quill & Pad
Jul 26, 2023

Martin Green’s Top Ten Favorite Watches of Only Watch 2023

By auctioning off unique pieces explicitly made for Only Watch, Luc Pettavino has given the brands a platform to go all in and all out. Many brands seize this opportunity to take their work to an even higher level, while collectors lust over the opportunity to own a unique watch from their favorite brands. Here are Martin Green’s Top Ten, and the last one, which is his absolute favorite!

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Worn & Wound
Baltic Bulova Jul 23, 2023

A Week in Watches Episode 59: Lorier, Baltic, Bulova, and More From Windup Watch Fair Chicago ’23

Episode 59 of A Week in Watches comes from inside of Windup Watch Fair Chicago. Blake Buettner, Zach Kazan, and Zach Weiss take the opportunity to talk to eight brands about their new releases and their stories. From the new Bulova Jet Star to Lorier’s Hydra III to Benrus’ Ultra-Deep, there were lots of great releases and watches in general at the Windup Watch Fair. Check out this week’s video below for just a taste of what was at the fair. Want to check out a Windup Watch Fair for yourself? The next one will be in New York City from October 20 – 22, 2023. It’s going to be our biggest fair yet. To stay up to date check out windupwatchfair.com, follow the fair @windupwatchfair, and sign up for our newsletters. The post A Week in Watches Episode 59: Lorier, Baltic, Bulova, and More From Windup Watch Fair Chicago ’23 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

From CR7 to C24: Cristiano Ronaldo invests in Chrono24 watch marketplace platform Time+Tide
Jul 19, 2023

From CR7 to C24: Cristiano Ronaldo invests in Chrono24 watch marketplace platform

Usually when we write a story involving an athlete or celebrity, it involves watch spotting. But last week the worlds of popular culture and horology intersected in a more significant and meaningful way. We have previously documented how football superstar Cristiano Ronaldo is a fully fledged watch collector, but now he takes on the role … ContinuedThe post From CR7 to C24: Cristiano Ronaldo invests in Chrono24 watch marketplace platform appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How colour theory affects your watch collection Time+Tide
Jul 17, 2023

How colour theory affects your watch collection

Given the huge variety in colours, gradients and and textures on dials these days, it’s more important than ever to understand how colour actually works. You may think of it as being as simple as applying pigment equals colour, but there’s really a lot more going on both in the factories and in your eyes. … ContinuedThe post How colour theory affects your watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 15, 2023

Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Picking out my favourite references for this year’s Only Watch auctions, I was pretty shocked to realise how much my tastes have changed over the last handful of years. Some of these brands I even used to hate, although I won’t be admitting which ones. Only Watch is the perfect chance for brands to change … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ianos Teams up with Chronopassion for a Limited Edition Version of their Mihanikos Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Jul 12, 2023

Ianos Teams up with Chronopassion for a Limited Edition Version of their Mihanikos Dive Watch

Fans of funky and purely creative dive watches will surely remember Ianos, and specifically their Mihanikos dive watch, reviewed here by our own Ed Jelley. It’s one of the more creative divers from a small independent in the micro-brand sphere we can recall, drawing inspiration from brand founder Jacob Hatzidimitriou’s Greek heritage, and the sponge divers of the Greek island of Kalymnos. The latest release from Ianos is a collaboration with Chronopassion, the Paris based watch retailer specializing in high end independents. It turns out Chronopassion owner Laurent Picciotto is an Ianos fan (Jacob spotted his name on the order list for the original run of the Mihanikos), so the seeds of a collaboration have been growing for quite some time. The new limited edition seeks to give the Mihanikos some additional contemporary design notes, with colors inspired by the City of Light. Fans of the original Mihanikos will immediately recognize that the new limited edition keeps the original design of the watch, but changes up the color considerably for a very different impression. Instead of a dark blue dial, we get a slate gray combined with jet black lume filled hands. We still get the signature sterile bezel (made from a single piece of steel) with the ultra fine texture that makes this watch so distinctive. One of the fun things about the Mihanikos is how every element of the watch ties back to the long history of Greek diving culture. The visual impression of the case and be...

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Jul 12, 2023

Biver’s Creation for Only Watch 2023: A Repeater with No Hands

Shortly after the release of their initial timepiece, the Carillon Tourbillon, Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre are making their debut at Only Watch with the Catharsis. A bold take on the chiming watch, this unique piece has no hands on the dial, but indicates the time with the carillon minute repeater. The dial is instead decorated with a mixture of gemstones, semi-precious stone marquetry, and guilloché to create an abstract scene depicting the Moon over a seascape. Inside is a variant of the movement as Biver’s first watch, but with an hour hand on the reverse. Initial thoughts  The father-and-son duo behind Biver have to be commended for a daring debut at Only Watch, even though the watch will no doubt be polarising. They have gone extremely conceptual with the Catharsis. The idea of creating a watch with no visible way of telling the time is nothing new, having been done recently by H. Moser & Cie. in 2019 and earlier by Haldimann and Romain Jerome. However, the Catharsis aims to make a statement and chart a course for this newly minted independent brand. The aesthetics of original Biver repeater model were mixed, so this watch actually addresses that issue in a weird yet logical manner. The visual focus of the watch is the dial, which is not really a dial but a canvas for elaborate decoration. The 89 sapphires that make up the waves have been invisibly set and create a pleasing effect alongside the meteorite moon, silver obsidian sky and mother of pearl stars...

Yema Urban Traveller Joins Chorus of Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch Releases Worn & Wound
Yema Jul 11, 2023

Yema Urban Traveller Joins Chorus of Integrated Bracelet Sport Watch Releases

Yema is fleshing out their young Traveller collection, which made its debut just last year, with a new family of integrated bracelet sport watches called the Urban Traveller. The new family is on-trend with a design that features the now familiar hallmarks of the genre, such as a flat link bracelet that integrates with the case, a flat octagonal mid case with single piece bezel, and a textured dial. Check, check, and check. The Urban Traveller does take a unique approach in a few ways, however, and more options of a good thing is, well, a good thing.  Yema is a French brand that was founded in 1948, with an increasing selection of in-house labeled movements, which we’ve discussed before launched, somewhat curiously, via Kickstarter. The Traveller collection of watches have been no exception, with the template for the Urban Traveller, called the Wristmaster Traveller, hitting funded status in late 2022. That watch, which recalled Yema’s heritage with the use of the Wristmaster label, featured a colorful selection of in-house ultra-thin micro-rotor movements, a playful choice that set that watch apart from other integrated sport watches. The Urban Traveller takes a more direct approach to the design, using Yema’s YEMA2000 movement, which is around 80% in-house, instead of the colorful micro-rotor movements seen in the Wristmaster Traveller. This change means a slightly thicker case and a closed caseback, as well as a dramatic reduction in pricing. The ultra-thin Wrist...

Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2023

Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots

Only Watch is probably my favourite endeavour within the watch industry. It is the ultimate horological win-win-win scenario. First and foremost, the charity auction raises a ton of money for a great cause. Only Watch was founded in 2005 by Luc Pettavino to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy (a genetic disease that … ContinuedThe post Zach’s 5 favourite Only Watch 2023 lots appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2023

Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece

E-waste. It’s an ever-growing problem, and one without easy solutions. Clearly, innovative thinking is needed, including new methods of manufacturing, recycling, and even upcycling when an electronic product reaches the end of its useful life. And while this example isn’t the answer, it is a showcase for some truly innovative thinking, as well as a … ContinuedThe post Days of future past: How a hacker resurrected a first-gen Apple Watch into a mechanical timepiece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Scrolling: Five Instagram Accounts to Follow for Crispy Watch Photography, Wide Ranging Curation and Niche Deep Dives Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Five Instagram Accounts to Follow for Crispy Watch Photography, Wide Ranging Curation and Niche Deep Dives

The Instagram watch community is an ever growing one. For watch enthusiasts, it has turned from a place where we shared our passion for the hobby by posting the standard wrist shot, to a platform filled with an endless amount of accounts dedicated to high level watch photography, intersections between different interests adjacent to watches and niche accounts that seemingly dive deep into any subject related to horology. It has also become a place where connections are made and friendships are fostered which often lead to a conversation that extends beyond the DMs into real life. In the spirit of beautiful photography, an insatiable appetite to learn new things and meeting new people, Thomas Calara, has chosen five Instagram accounts that embodies that very essence. Great photography as well as a diverse curation are the standard. However, in addition to that, there’s also an array of great storytelling, portraits and historical nuggets sprinkled in. Check out the entire round-up below and the rest of our Watch Scrolling multi-part series here. Header image via: @samsveblenianobsession @samsveblenianobsession Sam’s taste in watches, as well as his photography skills are impeccable and you’d be hard pressed to find someone who knows more about the independent watch space than him. A quick scroll through his feed displays several heavy hitters and even though his collection is independent-focused, his choices for what remains in the watch box still somehow strays away ...

Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches Jul 7, 2023

Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille Debut Unique Pendant Watches for Only Watch 2023

The upcoming instalment of Only Watch sees both Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille unveiling one-of-a-kind pendant watches for the charity auction. Despite having having the same basic form, both watches are drastically different. The American jeweller reimagines its trademark Bird on a Rock brooch, transforming it into a watch that features a front-facing bird perched on an aquamarine crystal set on an 18k yellow gold watch case, showcasing the artful fusion of jewellery artistry and functional timekeeping. Richard Mille’s offering, on the other hand, is the RM S14 Talisman Origine that combines ancient shamanic motifs with the brand’s avant-garde, open-worked mechanics. And like many Richard Mille watches, the movement boasts a tourbillon. Initial thoughts By opting for a pendant watch, Tiffany & Co. and Richard Mille demonstrate their creativity and willingness to explore fresh avenues. Of the two timepieces, the offering from Tiffany is arguably more compelling because it is more sculptural. In fact, it is not apparent that the Bird on a Rock is a watch at all from a distance. And the “Bird” is not mere jewellery, it is a proper mechanic watch with a manually wound calibre, albeit a basic one. Richard Mille, usually a watchmaker through and through, shows its remarkable ability to transcend expectations by transforming its distinctive, tonneau watch case into jewellery that doubles as a work of art. Despite its unusual form, Talisman is still typical Richard Mill...

Gérald Genta Debuts a Mickey Mouse Repeater for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton makes Jul 7, 2023

Gérald Genta Debuts a Mickey Mouse Repeater for Only Watch 2023

The Gérald Genta brand, which has recently been revived by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the watchmaking manufacture of Louis Vuitton, makes its debut with a unique creation for Only Watch 2023. The Gérald Genta Only Watch 2023 retains the brand’s signature octagonal case, a shape historically known as the “Success”, while showcasing the whimsical side of the brand with a champlevé enamel dial featuring Mickey Mouse carrying a birthday cake. And like many past Gérald Genta watches, it tells the time with a retrograde minutes and jumping hours – along with a minute repeater. Initial thoughts The long awaited comeback of Gérald Genta, a given after its sister brand Daniel Roth was resurrected, raised expectations given the brand’s elaborate complications of the 1990s as well as the current technical prowess of LFT. Unsurprisingly, the brand has combined two of the best known themes from its short history, the Fantasy line of Disney-licensed watches and striking complications. The watch is essentially a homage to Gérald Genta’s best hits of the 1990s. The Mickey House dial is a nod to the Fantasy watches, most of which had retrograde displays. And the octagonal case is modelled on the Success, a bestseller for the brand at the time. That said, the new case design has the addition of lugs that feel slightly out of place. The original Success designs either did without lugs entirely or had simple horizontal bar lugs, both of which arguably work better with the o...