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New and Reviewed: Frederique Constant Classics Worldtimer Full Black Special
Frederique Constant releases a new version of the Classics Worldtimer Offline Full Black Special Edition. Here is our impressions on the novelty.
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Deployant
Frederique Constant releases a new version of the Classics Worldtimer Offline Full Black Special Edition. Here is our impressions on the novelty.
SJX Watches
For almost as long as I’ve been interested in watches, I’ve tried to find an objective way to visualise the stratification of the various luxury watch brands. I’m as fascinated by the process of watchmaking as much as the products themselves, and I wanted to find a way to differentiate brands based on the production techniques they employ, yet do so objectively. I believe you can tell a lot about a brand’s values and capabilities by looking at their methods, but it can be difficult to penetrate the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing to see what’s really going on behind the curtain. An objective measure: watchmaker-hours per watch In my review of the Saxonia Thin last year, I used the metric “watches per watchmaker” to illustrate the economics of A. Lange & Söhne. While this is not a perfect metric, it is simple and quantitative, and crucially, it can often be derived from publicly available information. Taking this analysis one step further, I added Swiss, German, and Japanese national statistics for working hours to calculate the maximum possible number of watchmaker-hours per watch for more than 50 luxury watch brands. The start of the map, the Saxonia Thin How to interpret this metric The watchmaker-hours metric is not the number of hours that a watchmaker spends on every watch. Rather, it’s the theoretical maximum number of hours that a brand’s watchmakers could possibly spend with each watch. This workrate can be viewed as a simple proxy fo...
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Recently the Kurono Chronograph 1 Mk.2 went up for sale, and has since sold out. More seasoned watch enthusiasts are likely familiar with the cult-followed micro-independent brand, but, for those new to to the space, some of you may have been wondering what all the hoopla on social media was all about. So, we refer you to Zach’s first story on … ContinuedThe post Why do you keep hearing about Kurono watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
These are a few of our favorite (F.P. Journe) things.
Time+Tide
Last year, you gave the one you loved a beautiful watch. Or maybe you received a watch as a gift. For months that watch has been worn and, with the holiday season fast approaching, you’re looking to use that for further gift-giving inspiration. How do you do that you might ask? Well, you dive head … ContinuedThe post Gift giving guide: The most useful watch accessories for any budget appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Recently, GaryG had the opportunity to handle, photograph, and wear a good friend’s Balancier Contemporain in white gold. His pal had long been a fan of the brand but had always been put off by the size of the watches. At 39.6 mm wide, though, the Contemporain is the most compact Greubel Forsey ever.
SJX Watches
Going on the block at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction is the Patek Philippe ref. 5004J “Michael Ovitz”. It’s lot 2520 and one of the watches from The Triazza Collection, an impressive accumulation of watches owned by a prominent Hong Kong businessman. The collection is heavy on Patek Philippe. Amongst the other timepieces in the collection is the Patek Philippe tourbillon pocket watch that won first prize at the Geneva Observatory in 1931 (which is also being offered in the same auction) and the Patek Philippe ref. 2499 that once belonged to Eric Clapton (but is not for sale, yet). “MSO” – Michael Steven Ovitz The “MSO” initials on this ref. 5004J instantly reveal it was one of the many, I would two dozen at least, special-order watches that Patek Philippe made for Michael Ovitz starting in 2011. Often described as a “super agent”, Mr Ovitz cofounded Creative Artists Agency (CAA), once the dominant talent agency in Hollywood. After a short-lived spell at Disney, he’s now known for his impressive art collection, some of which is on show in his equally impressive home in California. Though the reason behind Patek Philippe’s accommodation of Mr Ovitz is not publicly known, industry lore has it that the watches were an expression of gratitude by the Sterns after Mr Ovitz assisted them in a significant way. Mr Ovitz has only commented on these watches publicly once, in a 2021 article in Robb Report: “It was the first time Ovitz, who has be...
Hodinkee
From the ref. 1675 GMT "Batman" to a 36mm Sky-Dweller, hop in the Hodinkee time machine (aka Photoshop) because this is a fun one.
Revolution
The Angelus Chronodate that was relaunched this year can trace its roots all the way back to the original Chronodatos from the 1940s, a triple-calendar chronograph that were scarce commodities at the time. Despite retaining the big eye counters and central date indicator, the current Chronodate is resolutely contemporary with a multi-part exoskeleton case made […]
Time+Tide
Pair a watch brand with a designer. Tell them the only limit is their imagination. The result? The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross.The post HANDS-ON: Hublot flex their collab muscles with the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
On a recent trip to Château Angelus, a Premier Grand Cru Classe A vineyard in Saint-Émilion, France, Wei met with Bertrand Savary, CEO of Angelus to talk about our first collaboration with the brand. The scenic vistas surrounding the château were the perfect location to first discover our salmon dial Chronodate, which is aptly named […]
Revolution
We are proud to present our first collaboration with Angelus, a salmon grené dial version of the sublime Chronodate, which we are calling ‘Angels’ Share’. The Chronodate is a lesson in balanced design, with an angular titanium case and a multi-textured, soft grené finish to the dial. The mesmerising Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ […]
Revolution
When the BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Ultra launched earlier this year, it was a horological mic drop that blew the minds of everyone in the industry. At only 1.80mm thick, it is the eighth record breaker in eight years and the culmination of the Octo Finissimo’s journey to explore the heights of ultra-thin watchmaking. In the […]
Quill & Pad
The Piaget Rectangle à l'Ancienne, an “old-fashioned rectangle,” might have a blunt description for a name but this vintage watch is much more than that; it is a timepiece that exquisitely represents the essence of Piaget.
A horse is a horse, of course, of course. Unless there's a tourbillon and minute repeater and nearly 200 years of history behind the horse, of course.
Deployant
Ikepod releases a new Seapod in Bronze with GMT in three colour options of green, grey and blue. Limited production of only 50 pieces in each colour.
Revolution
Unafraid to flaunt the technical prowess and artistic flair of the house, Greubel Forsey is showing us a whole new world. The Greubel Forsey GMT Balancier Convexe demonstrates how a perfect GMT world timer could look like, down to the most minute details.
Time+Tide
I know the folks down under are gearing up for summer, still cannot imagine a summery Christmas morning, but here in the northern hemisphere we are all gearing up for winter. This means our bodies, and our watches, will be protected beneath our puffy winter jackets imminently. But, thanks to an incoming Supreme and North … ContinuedThe post Supreme and North Face have just made a jacket every watch wearer will love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having already covered highlights in two categories – independent watchmaking and interesting complications – in Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now focus on a crowd favourite when it comes to complications, the chronograph. We look at eight chronographs that stand out in The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV. They range from an esoteric Patek Philippe made for an English football club owned by a Thai duty-free shopping magnate to and a fine specimen of the mythical Omega Speedmaster “MIR-90 90 Days” that spent three months on the Russian space station. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found here. The Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A-011 made in 2016 to commemorate Leicester City becoming Premier League champions for the first time Lot 813: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph, first-generation “Meter” dial Since its introduction in 1999 as Lange’s first chronograph, the Datograph is of the German brand’s most iconic timepieces. Even independent watchmaker Philippe Dufour famously fawns over the movement – he owns an example in rose gold – that is a masterpiece of impeccable craftsmanship and attention to detail. This example is a first-generation model with a 39 mm platinum case and a glossy black dial, arguably the quintessential Datograph. Keen-eyed collectors will notice “METER” on the tachymeter scale, indicating this is one of the earliest examples of the model. The warranty confirms that with a 2001 purchase date. Lange began usin...
Quill & Pad
The last couple of GPHGs were hit by COVID, but the 2022 GPHG was finally again an event and a party as it should be! Tout le monde was in Geneva, celebrating watchmaking at its finest. Here are our thoughts on the winners and how well we did at predicting them.
Revolution
Wei and Jeremiah talk about Nivada Grenchen, a brand that has been recently resurrected by Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat, and some of its incredibly well-made historical models that were field-tested and found to be superb tool watches. The Depthmaster is one of those models and we are honored to collaborate with Nivada to present […]
Revolution
We are proud to present our first collaboration with the revived Nivada Grenchen, an all blacked-out version of the historic Depthmaster, one of the first dive watches to be rated to a depth of a thousand meters! Shop the Nivada x Revolution & The Rake Depthmaster “No Barracuda”
Hodinkee
When thinking about assembling this two watch collection, I chose to interpret the idea in the most straightforward and practical way possible: Which pair of watches would have me covered anywhere, anytime? While the previous two columns from Jack and Ben each looked at a pair of watches with some similarities that revealed the respective brands’ idiosyncrasies, I'm going for two totally different timepieces here. The dichotomy is obvious, yet it is highly revealing of the distinctive benefits different types of wristwatches can bring. To the right you probably recognized a modern Rolex Submariner, and to the left we have a vintage ultra-thin Piaget. It'd be hard to think of two less-similar watches.
Revolution
On a trip to Paris, Wei met with Guillaume Laidet, the architect of recently revived vintage darling, Nivada Grenchen to talk about our first collaboration – a fully black Depthmaster with unique dial markers that resemble the video game character Pac-Man. The original Depthmaster was incredibly well made and depth-rated to 1,000m and our watch […]
Deployant
Hanhart releases 4 new versions of the 417 ES in 2 different sizes of 42mm and 39mm with two dial options in either an Panda or Reverse Panda look.
Revolution
Before the New Generation Watch Leadership symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, Wei caught up with Jean Arnault, Director of Marketing and Development at Louis Vuitton Watches, to talk about his deep passion for horology and high craftsmanship, and the brand’s progression from a luxury fashion house to the heights of haute horlogerie. Despite his […]
SJX Watches
Having looked at some of the most fascinating pocket watches and clocks on offer at Christie’s Important Watches auction that happens soon in Hong Kong, we now turn to attention to the genre that many collectors are now pursuing, independent watchmaking. As expected, amongst the offerings going on the block are works from the big names like F.P. Journe, Richard Mille, and H. Moser & Cie. But beyond the usual suspects, the sale also encompasses hidden gems, like the highly complicated tourbillon perpetual calendar by Gerald Genta presented as a Cartier Pasha. The Important Watches auction (lots 2306-2523), including watches from The Triazza Collection, begins at 1 pm on November 27 – the catalogue is available here. It’s followed by the second session (lots 2201-2282) offering watches from The Champion Collection at 7 pm – see the full catalogue here. The fully-engraved Gerald Genta movement inside the Cartier Pasha Lot 2382: Cartier Pasha Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Considered one of the most successful watch designers of the 20th century – though his most influential designs were for Audemars Piguet and the Patek Philippe rather than his own – Gerald Genta was also responsible for some of the most complicated watches of the 1980s and 1990s when his namesake brand was at its peak. In fact, the Genta brand was so proficient at making highly complex watches that Cartier tapped Gerald Genta as a movement supplier for its top-of-the-line complications in the 19...
Teddy Baldassarre
There are a lot of cheap watches out there, and to be honest, many of them look the part. Making a watch that is inexpensive enough to appeal to a broad audience yet also capable of impressing a discerning watch enthusiast with its build quality, finishing, movement, and design is a challenging task for even the most experienced and resourceful of watch manufacturers. The brands and models we spotlight below, in our humble opinion, successfully tread the line between entry-level value (prices range from under $100 to just shy of $600) and noteworthy quality and aesthetics. Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, the most “expensive-looking” of which is this gold-toned model with a rectangular resin case, a stainless steel bracelet, and an electro-luminescent backlit display screen. The watch features an array of useful functions including a 1/100-second stopwatch with elapsed times and split times, daily alarms, hourly time signals, an auto-calendar, and timekeeping options in both 12-hour and 24-hour format. Best of all, this combination of high functionality and gilded flair can be had for under $70. Scurfa Diver O...
Hodinkee
The Monaco is one of the most recognizable watches of the 20th century, so we're taking it back to square one.
Deployant
Armin Strom releases an 8 piece limited edition series of their Gravity Equal Force in collaboration with Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH),.
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