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Reconsidering A Smartwatch: The Garmin MARQ 3 Worn & Wound
Casio nal “What smartwatch should 6 days ago

Reconsidering A Smartwatch: The Garmin MARQ 3

One side effect of working in the watch industry is becoming the default person to ask when there’s a watch-adjacent question. While I have a go-to answer for most questions, the occasional “What smartwatch should I buy?” was always a bit of a curveball. Until last month, I would have recommended that you stay within your phone’s ecosystem to take advantage of any integrations and connectivity that were built in, with only one exception. When it comes to fitness tracking, especially for runners, I’ve always heard that Garmin was the brand to go with. Now, I’ve always considered the smartwatch to be an extension of your phone, so mechanical watches were the perfect way to become a little less connected, but this newest release has me thinking that maybe I should add a smartwatch back into the collection. While I don’t think I’ve ever explicitly mentioned my age in an article or on the podcast, smartwatches really started to take off when I was in high school. Around that time, I remember buying a rather affordable Xiaomi-branded smartwatch for myself. Despite being a fraction of the cost, it packed many of the same features as the current-generation smartwatches: phone notifications, step counting, and it even tracked just how little sleep I was getting each night, making it an easy purchase for an unemployed high school student.I’ d go on to wear this watch throughout high school and college, before ultimately becoming interested in mechanical watches and...

SJX Podcast: Rolex London, Patek Philippe Milano SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Milano Oct 9, 2026

SJX Podcast: Rolex London, Patek Philippe Milano

On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, SJX returns from London and Milan with impressions of two very different demonstrations of watchmaking’s biggest names at work. Rolex’s “Four Seasons” Daytona auction broke the record for the biggest charity watch auction in history, raising nearly US$50 million, but a longer run-up might possibly have pushed the result even higher. In Milan, Patek Philippe unveiled the ref. 5978P, pairing an instantaneous perpetual calendar with its manually wound chronograph. The exhibition’s Rare Handcrafts and Italian-market limited editions also offer plenty to debate, from remarkable pocket watches to a Ferrari-red minute repeater. Finally, we discuss highlights from Marteau & Co’s fourth online auction, which runs from October 8-15th. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond & Spectre Editions (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Oct 5, 2026

Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond & Spectre Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know If you've been browsing Omega's website recently, you might have seen some interesting discrepancies while looking at the webpages for many of the Seamasters. Many on the internet have picked up on these little details and subtle easter eggs, including the Omega logo in the website header intermittently flickering into the franchise's modern-era Specter logo. Or perhaps you spotted that same logo depicted as ASCII art in the website's source code (shown below). Clever marketing techniques, especially given the Bond theme of the releases being teased.  Then, this past Friday, Omega dropped the product page for one of the new watches straight into the Seamaster 300 collection on the website, technical specs and all. And while the listing had no photos (that would be too easy), sleuths quickly found a long string of binary text in the description box that converts to the product introduction for the new watch. It created real buzz online, but let me fill in the final missing pieces with live photos and hands-on context of these new Bond-themed Seamasters. Which brings us to today: Omega launches not just one watch—but actually four new Seamasters. Two of them are the focus here since they're not limited and are additions to the main collection. Let's get one thing out of the way first—if you saw the teaser and were hoping for a new, downsized version of the Seamaster Diver 300M, sorry, no dice. These new watches follow the same formula as the current-generat...

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Reference 5978P – Oct 1, 2026

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Reference 5978P - A Brand New Perpetual Calendar Chronograph! (Live Pics)

Reporting directly from Milan, we have a brand-new watch from Patek Philippe, and man, this is a big one. For only the seventh time in the 187 years of the world's most important high-end watchmaker, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph! The 1518 was shown in 1941, the 2499 in 1951, the 3970 in 1986, the 5020 (forgot about that one, didnt ya!?) in 1994, the 5970 in 2004, and the 5270 in 2011 – which means this new watch, the reference 5978P, is only the second to be shown in my entire career covering this space. So you can imagine how excited I was to hear about it! Say hello to the 5978P. For only the seventh time in 187 years, we have a new perpetual calendar chronograph!  What you're looking at is something so familiar, and yet so different. It is the first hand-wound perpetual chronograph to feature an instantaneous calendar mechanism, all shown in windows along a curved arch at the top of the dial, making the watch immensely legible, much more so than any previous PPC to date. The instantaneous jumping – which happens within 30 milliseconds – is one heck of a party trick.  If you're thinking this looks like something you may have seen in the 5208 or 5308 Grand Complications, you'd be exactly right. The long and short is that Patek has taken that ingenious instantaneous perpetual calendar mechanism from its big, big dog watches and applied it to the base chronograph caliber CH 29-535 that powers Patek's finest watches. It makes a shocking amount of sen...

Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire Hodinkee
Casio associates plopped down Oct 1, 2026

Hands-On: G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire

Earlier this summer, I sat down in a fluorescent-lit meeting room in Yamagata, Japan, as a group of Casio associates plopped down a heavy box in front of me. I thought I was just going to Casio's Yamagata factory for a tour of the production line, but I had no idea that I was about to see something absolutely bonkers. Turns out, they were about to show me the watch released to the world today—G-SHOCK's first-ever production watch constructed out of sapphire crystal, in a limited edition of 20 pieces. Let's get to the important detail first—the new MRG-D5000 is priced at $80,000 (JPY 1.1 million). Is this the craziest new G-SHOCK we've seen in a while? Certainly yes. But is it surprising? Well, maybe not quite. The clues were kind of there all along. In the MR-G series, which already represents G-SHOCK at its highest end, the new Blue Rose Project stands out for its material choice and a price tag still an order of magnitude higher than even the most expensive typical MR-G models. If you're not familiar with the series, it's essentially G-SHOCK's flagship lineup: it takes the familiar digital module and durability specs demanded of G-SHOCK and combines them with a much higher level of materials and finishing, along with a much more complex construction. I've owned an MR-G (the MRGB5000R-1, to be specific) for a few years now, and I have to say that I'm a big fan. Yes, it's certainly one of the easier watch concepts to ridicule online, but these models feel extremely imp...

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 25, 2026

Breguet Expands Marine Fleet

The Breguet Marine 5517 and 5527 chronograph have been with us since 2018, remaining largely unchanged even as the rest of the catalogue has been thoroughly modernised. Now, the Marine collection gets its refresh with new dials and a range of materials, from titanium to 18k rose and white gold. The Marine 5517 in titanium Initial thoughts The Marine is something of an outlier among high-end integrated bracelet sports watches, being one of the few designs that avoids the 1970s-inspired styling that dominates the segment. Instead, the Marine carries design DNA from the brand’s heritage producing marine chronometers, dressed in a suitably seaworthy case and bracelet (or rubber strap). One of the most notable design changes for the updated Marine is that the roman numerals have been retired in favour of Breguet numerals. This update gives the Marine obvious Breguet design DNA, but some may find the mix of traditional Breguet elements on the dial with the contemporary case too much of a clash. The Marine 5527 in 18k rose gold There’s little question about the overall quality of the Marine, but the pricing puts its head-to-head with popular models from Audemars Piguet, such as the Royal Oak Chronograph, which is actually $500 cheaper than the 5527 in 18k rose gold. That said, the titanium variants are priced competitively, relative to titanium sports watches of similar quality from the likes of Vacheron Constantin. Six references, with bracelet or strap A little against conv...

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Longines Spirit Pilot Sep 24, 2026

Introducing: The Longines Spirit Pilot And Spirit Pilot Flyback In Blue (Live Pics)

What We Know Not all of the releases we cover are horological heavy hitters or groundbreaking mechanical inventions. Yes, plenty are, but sometimes a simple new dial color is worth talking about. And in the context of Longines' mighty newsworthy year, with several extremely well-received launches like the Hydroconquest and the Master Collection Monopushers already in the recent catalog, a new colorway for the Spirit Pilot and Pilot Flyback still feels worth discussing. The new time-only Spirit Pilot in blue.Image, courtesy Longines. The second iteration of these two watches, since its update last year, introduces a matte blue dial (and a glossy blue ceramic bezel insert on the chronograph). At a high level, that's kind of it. But with the change from a gilt-style look, swapping the golden accents of the applied numerals, chapter ring chamfer, and printing, this is the first time the latest generation of Spirit Pilot feels like a decidedly modern product. Yes, you lose a little bit of the vintage charm, but the new versions are not replacing those "gilt" editions, so now you have the same models in two very different aesthetic contexts. I won't spend too much time on specs because they remain unchanged—the time-only Spirit Pilot is 39mm by 11.5mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47.2mm, and the Flyback chronograph is 39.5mm by 13.4mm with a lug-to-lug of 47.4mm. The time-only model features the automatic L888.4 caliber, which is COSC-certified and offers a 72-hour power reserve with...

Moser Dips Its Toe Back in the Digital Realm with the New Limited Edition Streamliner Off-Grid Worn & Wound
Sep 21, 2026

Moser Dips Its Toe Back in the Digital Realm with the New Limited Edition Streamliner Off-Grid

Moser has long been a brand who’s unafraid to experiment and test boundaries, creating many designs that have elicited conversation or even debate. Now, the brand is making waves with a new digital timepiece. Here, a skeletonized dial reveals an architecture that combines digital technology with traditional watchmaking in the new Limited Edition Streamliner Off-Grid. Moser first experimented with a hybrid analog/digital timepiece last year with the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition. The model features a sober black dial evoking the same vibe as the brand’s trademark Vantablack, but instead of the innovative coating, this black backdrop reveals a digital display at 6 o’clock. Appearing to hover above is the classic analog component in Moser’s typical blue fume. The model was released as a part of the brand’s collaboration with Alpine Motorsports and marked a world first as a timepiece engineered specifically for the needs of a Formula 1 crew, helping them communicate faster, shave off those crucial fractions of a second, and overall streamline operations (pun intended) through the capabilities of the digital display. Now, we get the next evolution of this hybrid style design. While Moser is certainly no stranger to rather out-there designs, the brand does have its own distinct design language, and even with this digital timepiece, we still see those stylistic signatures come through. At the base is, once again, the brand’s iconic Streamliner case with its ple...

Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 12 And Ultra 4 Hodinkee
Ming from several versions back Sep 17, 2026

Hands-On: The Apple Watch Series 12 And Ultra 4

Another year, another generation of the Apple Watch. Like last year's Series 11 and Ultra 3, things have largely stayed the same. That said, there are still a few major under-the-hood updates and some new aesthetic changes, but we're still carrying over the Apple Watch's subtle tenth-anniversary redesign from a few years ago, so the familiar dimensions remain. That also holds true for the Ultra 4. Across the board, the main improvements come in a new, more powerful chip and a vastly improved health sensor equipped on the back of each watch. With iterative improvements like this in the yearly refresh cycle, this new generation offers a solid upgrade for those coming from several versions back, and less of a temptation for those fresh off last year's models. But there will always be those who avidly find every chance to upgrade to the next year's latest and greatest—Apple's got you covered with some fun additions, too. A Return To Ceramic 46mm Night Blue (left) and 42mm Pearl White (right) ceramics. To me, the most exciting news from this year's Apple Watch announcements was the return of ceramic as a case material. Titanium is cool and all, especially since all the latest titanium cases since last year have been 3D-printed, but there's something a little nerdier about an Apple Watch in ceramic. Apple introduced ceramic on the Apple Watch as early as the Series 3 in 2017. I was a happy owner of a 2019 Series 5 Apple Watch Edition in white ceramic, so my interest has natura...

Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius Fratello
Venezianico Redentore Levius Venezianico has Sep 15, 2026

Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius

Venezianico has been raising the bar constantly with its varied collection of watches. While my favorites from the Venetian brand are in the Arsenale collection, we have seen some impressive developments in the Bucintoro and Redentore lines. The high-end models in those two show the brand’s interesting progress with Italian-made calibers and special dials. With […] Visit Modern Venetian Elegance Gets A Name: The Venezianico Redentore Levius to read the full article.

Enthusiast Spotlight: Chris Sohl Dives Into the Soul of the All-New Certina DS Super PH2000M Worn & Wound
Certina DS Super PH2000M Sep 11, 2026

Enthusiast Spotlight: Chris Sohl Dives Into the Soul of the All-New Certina DS Super PH2000M

For Chris Sohl—or simply Sohl, as most folks know him—watches and diving have always been intertwined. He got into both around the same time in 2015, discovering that each offered the same combination of history, adventure, technical detail, and, perhaps most importantly, an endless rabbit hole to explore. Nearly a decade later, he’s a technical diver, devoted dive-watch enthusiast, and self-described “Nerd Shepherd,” bringing people together around the things they love. In this edition of Enthusiast Spotlight, we caught up with Sohl to talk about his path into technical diving, the watches he trusts underwater, his most memorable dives, and why sometimes the best tool is the one that’s wildly overqualified for the job. Finally, we got Sohl’s first impressions of Certina’s new DS Super PH2000M, deep-water dive watch.  Tell us a little bit about yourself and how you first got into diving. I’m a landlocked, scuba diving family man in Louisville, Kentucky, and a real big nerd about a lot of things. I find great joy in bringing people together over shared passions, especially watches and diving, and organizing the pursuit. I recently coined the label “Nerd Shepherd,” which I think captures what I’ve been up to for the past several years pretty well, from administering The Grey NATO podcast’s TGN Crew Slack, to organizing dives with friends across the watch enthusiast community. I got into watches and diving separately by chance, just months apart bac...

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References Worn & Wound
Citizen Group who Sep 10, 2026

Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References

As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands.  The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1 Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet Sep 10, 2026

Hands-On: The Pattern Recognition B-Theory Series 1

About a year ago—or maybe two—I remember sitting in an Uber with Ben and some of the Hodinkee team as we drove down the Rue de Lausanne in Geneva, heading to Watches & Wonders. We had just grabbed a quick breakfast when Michael Friedman unexpectedly joined us. Yes, that Michael Friedman. The "AP, Michael Friedman, my friend's cooler" rap lyric guy. The guy who just so happened to have also formerly been a curator at the Willard House & Clock Museum and the National Watch & Clock Museum, Head of Watches at Christie's New York, a client advisor to people like Eric Clapton (during his pièce unique Patek years), and most recently the Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet. Okay, maybe you don't know Michael Friedman. But I knew him well and had some formative early-career experiences bumping into and getting to know him. I also knew he was working on a new brand, but had absolutely zero idea what it was. "It's wild," said Ben—or some approximation of that. "It's not so much a watch as a cuff, with a bunch of diamonds." What could that even mean? I had ideas in my head, but as they spiraled, they got further from the truth. As of a few months ago, we have the answer, and it's not what I had envisioned. The B-Theory Series 1 from Friedman's new brand Pattern Recognition is, as Ben said, far from a watch in most respects, but closer than I expected. Yes, it's jewelry. There are diamonds. And yet it's got the bona fides of technical watchmaking and connections with the pa...

Introducing - The Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon, with the First Diamond-Set Balance Wheel in Modern Watchmaking Monochrome
Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon Sep 9, 2026

Introducing - The Jacob & Co. Brilliant Flying Tourbillon, with the First Diamond-Set Balance Wheel in Modern Watchmaking

You might have heard of diamonds as endstones on the balance staff and the escapement, but putting them onto the balance wheel? Now, if you were to think of one watchmaker to do it, though, it would be Jacob & Co, never shy about challenging the conventions of high watchmaking. The new Brilliant Flying Tourbillon […]

Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black Fratello
Ming My Image Sep 6, 2026

Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black

When it comes to brands and their expertise, I am a bit of a purist. There is a famous Dutch saying: “Cobbler, stick to your last.” In other words, stick to what you do best. Some fields, like horology, require highly specialized expertise and craftsmanship, making it hard for a brand known for operating in […] Visit Reframing My Image Of The Leica ZM 11 Titanium Coffee Black to read the full article.

AWCo and Squale Return With 60 More NOS Blancpain-Cased Divers Worn & Wound
Blancpain Cased Divers Sep 4, 2026

AWCo and Squale Return With 60 More NOS Blancpain-Cased Divers

In 2020, Squale teamed up with Amsterdam Watch Company for a truly memorable collaboration: two “Fifty Fathoms” divers using NOS cases from the 1950s, originally manufactured by Squale for Blancpain (technically, this was pre-Squale, which was established in 1959, so the cases would have been made under Von Büren SA). It’s a unique type of watch that only pops up once every few years, if that. NOS cases make them part vintage, part modern. That’s always intriguing, but even more so when the cases come from watches that are so coveted, rare, and, frankly, expensive. Priced at around $2k at the time and limited to 60 pieces each, they sold out the same day, leaving many collectors, such as yours truly, wishing they had pulled the trigger a little faster. In 2020, however, AWCo teased that more would be coming, noting that Squale had access to 180 NOS cases in total, not just the 120 used for those first two editions. That left 60 more for a third. Well, that day has come with the launch of the AWCo x Squale Milbino. A logical but no less exciting addition to the series, the Milbino takes inspiration from mil-spec Fifty Fathoms watches. The telltale feature, which is hard to miss, is the moisture indicator on the dial. Created in the 1950s as a safety feature for military divers, it would change color if moisture breached the case seals, quickly letting the diver know that their watch had been compromised. A cool, practical detail that has since become collector catn...

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana Worn & Wound
Accutron Frédérique Constant Sep 3, 2026

Join Worn & Wound and Citizen Watch America for a Windup NYC Preview in Billings, Montana

Have you ever wanted the Windup Watch Fair to come to your neck of the wood? Well, if you live in Montana, you’re in luck. Following the success of our recent enthusiast night in Salt Lake, Worn & Wound is teaming up with Citizen Watch America once again, this time heading north to Montana. On Thursday, September 17, we’ll be joining our friends at Riddle’s Jewelry in Billings for a special preview of the offerings they’ll be bringing to Windup NYC next month, and you’re invited. Thursday, September 17, 2026 5:30–7:30 PM MT Riddle’s Jewelry – Billings Shiloh 1002 Shiloh Crossing Blvd. Billings, MT 59102 RSVP NOW! This isn’t your average watch event. We’re bringing along a curated collection of standout pieces from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Frédérique Constant, and Alpina—including watches that are difficult to track down, rarely seen in person, or simply deserve far more wrist time than they usually get. Everything will be out and in the metal, ready for you to pick up, strap on, obsess about, and, if one steals your heart… it’s ready for purchase. A few of the amazing highlights include: Citizen Eco-Drive Photon – Reference BJ6560-53W This limited edition celebrates the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology and features a silver-tone Super Titanium case with a Duratect titanium carbide finish. Limited to just 5,000 pieces worldwide, it’s a standout example of Citizen’s ongoing commitment to light-powered watchmaking. Accutron Spacevi...

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo Worn & Wound
Bulgari Taps Sep 2, 2026

Bulgari Taps the Independent Talent of Vianney Halter for Its Next Octo Finissimo

Since its inception in 2014, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo line has propelled the Maison into the realm of serious watchmaking, a rare accomplishment for a brand whose origins are deeply rooted in jewelry making. In just over a decade, the models have gone on to break numerous world records (10 to be exact) and take on countless forms from highly complicated versions to ones that play with a range of materials. Along the way, Bulgari has called upon several artists across various mediums to collaborate on designs, resulting in co-created editions with names like Tadao Ando, Lee Ufan, and Mo Coppoletta. Now, for the first time, Bulgari has looked within the industry to partner with another watchmaker, tapping independent Vianney Halter for the next evolution of the iconic Octo. Although this recent collaboration hails from the expertise of two watchmakers, other artforms still come into play, namely the element of sculpture. Bulgari has long been vocal about the influences of Roman art, architecture, and design in its creations. Similarly, Vianney Halter draws inspiration from other modalities, which informs the three dimensional and industrial design language that brings a sculptural nature to his timepieces. These shared values and visions align in the new Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter. When I think of the aesthetic codes of both Bulgari and Vianney Halter, they are bold, clearly defined, and instantly recognizable. At first glance, reading the headline of the pr...

Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release Hodinkee
Bulgari s Unexpected Dual Time Sep 2, 2026

Introducing: Bulgari's Unexpected Dual Time Octo Finissimo With Vianney Halter, Plus A "Dazzle" Camo Release

What We Know While I hate to repeat myself, I will yet again call something "the most surprising collaboration." I mean, it feels warranted, especially when I say that not only have the minds at Bulgari handed over the reins to collaborate with an independent watchmaker for the first time ever, but they've done so with a maximalist mind that contrasts with Bulgari's measured take on design. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual x Vianney Halter. What a world. And not only that, but Bulgari allowed Halter to take an Octo Finissimo movement and work with the brand to create modules to complement the Jules Vernian steampunk design. The new movement, the BVF 200, is based on the BVL 138 and has an automatic microrotor winding system, but with modules to add a dual-time/GMT function, Day/Night indicator, and a large, rotating date. At the top right, you have the main time zone. Bottom left has another window for the GMT time (ostensibly set forward and backward with pushers on the left-hand case side, like a Patek travel time watch), a day/night indicator at the bottom right (capped by Vianney Halter's name), and a giant aperture with a date disc, highlighting the date with a small fork. All of these functions are in porthole-style apertures like those found on Halter's Antiqua. The movement runs at 3Hz and has a 60-hour power reserve. From the side, the Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter is noticeably thicker than previous models. That's not hard to do, since the Chronograph ...

Insight: The Keyless Works SJX Watches
Czapek was going sour Aug 31, 2026

Insight: The Keyless Works

Having previously examined concepts related to energy flow inside watch movements, from automatic winding to barrel capacity and gear tooth profiles, we now turn and look at how energy enters the movement through the keyless works. For the majority of watches, the crown is the sole component through which the owner interacts with the movement, for both setting the indications and winding. While these operations have become a matter of routine, they wouldn’t be possible if not for the keyless works. This underrated mechanism — usually hidden — deserves a closer look. From key to crown We owe today’s user-friendly dual-purpose crown, which can be used for both winding and setting, to French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe, whose last name is certainly resonant with all horology enthusiasts. A keen technician who had not found success in his homeland, Philippe was approached in 1845 by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a Polish watch merchant from Geneva. Patek’s then-partnership with François Czapek was going sour and the merchant was looking for a new, technically oriented associate. Shortly thereafter, Philippe was appointed as technical director at Patek’s firm. This unexpected fast track was due to Philippe’s innovation: the keyless, stem-wound movement. Although his French peers weren’t taken with the invention, Patek recognised the potential of keyless timepieces and sought to capitalise on — and further develop — the concept. Later in 1851, Patek, Philipp...

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin s Adventures Aug 28, 2026

Vacheron Constantin’s Adventures in the Animal Kingdom

As part of the brand’s “One of Not Many Crafts” programme, Vacheron Constantin is experimenting with a series of concept watches decorated with unexpected artisanal crafts, Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Animal Kingdom. Some of the decorative method have never before used by Vacheron Constantin, or even watchmaking at large. The series is made up of six creative watches – each a unique creation – that run the gamut of rare crafts, some that are traditional in watchmaking, like gold embroidery, but others that are surprising, like origami. Each watch has a whimsical name stemming from the subject and method: Feathersnake, Glassoctopus, Oraygami, Tigerbroidery, Papercroc, and Woodenwings. From left: Woodenwings, Feathersnake, and Tigerbroidery Initial thoughts These are one-off concept watches, so both availability and price are moot points. But they are impressive, both in terms of technique and visuals, so I imagine Vacheron Constantin will be turning to these artisans for more watches eventually. All are striking, but a few stand out. Papercroc might well be my favourite of the lot, though Vacheron Constantin missed the opportunity to make a paper tiger. On the other hand, when the exotic technique on a tiny scale and quality of the result are taken together, Tigerbroidery is arguably one of Vacheron Constantin’s greatest achievements in the rare crafts field. Papercroc Others stand out for the technique. Part of Glassoctopus’s appeal is the rawness of the ...

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jaquet Droz Aug 27, 2026

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know

Probably one of the proudest informal titles I’ve garnered in my nearly 15-year career in the watch industry is “the resident enamel girl.” As a refresher, I fell in love with the artform in a hands-on workshop during a press trip several years ago and have gone on to complete three different apprenticeships in Switzerland studying the craft. I have an immense appreciation not only for the beauty of enamel dials but also the meticulous creative process behind them. Enamel dials were long held in esteem as one of the elements of watchmaking reserved for the elite, much like high complications. It’s no small feat to bring a well-executed enamel dial to life. The materials, tools, machines, and the expert level of training for the craftspeople were once gripped tightly by top brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Let me be clear – in practice, brand clout ultimately does not correlate to the best enamel dials. There’s a particular maison not named here (and who I will not call out by name) but who is one of the biggest names in the industry, with every resource at their disposal, and one of their recent and highly popular enamel dials is unbearably mediocre if you give it a look under a loupe. Thankfully, the collector community is starting to come around to this notion that enamel from independent brands can be equally good if not better than the old guard. If you need further proof, here are nine under the...

First Look - The New Formex Essence 39mm Automatic COSC, Upgraded Where It Counts Monochrome
Formex Essence 39mm Automatic COSC Aug 27, 2026

First Look - The New Formex Essence 39mm Automatic COSC, Upgraded Where It Counts

Formex is giving its best-selling, compact Essence 39mm a refresh, bringing in technical and ergonomic improvements. The 39mm Essence was first showcased in 2020 as the smaller sibling to the original 43mm model, and we have since seen it in everything from the regular collection to the meteorite-dial Essence 39 Space Gold and wine-toned Gamaret. […]

First Look - The Ming 57.05 Comet, A Worldtimer with a Clever Answer to Daylight Saving Time Monochrome
Ming 57.05 Comet Aug 26, 2026

First Look - The Ming 57.05 Comet, A Worldtimer with a Clever Answer to Daylight Saving Time

Worldtimers are among the most practical complications for frequent travellers, yet they have, apart from a few high-end, complex watches, one persistent limitation: daylight saving time. Twice a year, depending on where you are, the neat logic of a conventional worldtime display becomes… not so neat anymore. The new 57.05 Comet by indie watchmaker Ming […]

Sunday thoughts: is Omega a Rolex rival, or is it really Tudor that Omega should be compared to? WristBuzz
Sunday thoughts: is Omega a Rolex rival, or is it really Tudor that Omega should be compared to? Aug 23, 2026

Sunday thoughts: is Omega a Rolex rival, or is it really Tudor that Omega should be compared to?

Every enthusiast has this debate on a Sunday morning. Omega and Rolex have shared a shelf for 60 years, but the market has moved. Is the fair comparison still Rolex, or is Tudor the one that actually shops in the same €4k to €10k drawer? Five reasons for each side.

eBay Finds: Classics from Omega, a Well Preserved Bulova, and More Worn & Wound
Accutron Aug 21, 2026

eBay Finds: Classics from Omega, a Well Preserved Bulova, and More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Bulova  Starting off this week with a nice vintage Bulova dress watch. At first glance I thought it was an Accutron with the dial and hands, but it’s an automatic Bulova. The yellow gold fill case has a fancy etched bezel to go with the radial brushed dial. This gives the watch a low-key bling look that isn’t too loud. The case is in good shape, as is the dial and hands. This one is time only, no date window. The automatic Bulova caliber 11ALAC movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a handsome leather strap that really goes well. Great looking piece with a high quality movement that should be reasonably priced at hammer time. View auction here Vintage Omega Speedmaster Professional  Here’s one that will not be easy on the wallet, but a vintage Omega Speedmaster is worth the money, it’s all that and a bag of chips. This example is from the late 1970s/early 1980s and is likely a ref 144.022, but don’t hold me to it as there are no pictures of the inside caseback or the movement. The iconic case looks unpolished with razor sharp edges on the bombe lugs. The tachymetre bezel is also in superb condition. The black dial looks original and super c...