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All Rolex Submariner References Rolex

Every Rolex Submariner from 1953 ref. 6204 to today: years, dials, bezels, movements, nicknames.

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Submariner Rolex

The 1953 Rolex diver. James Bond's watch and the template every dive watch copies.

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jun 15, 2021

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay?

We’ve grown used to seeing jaw-dropping auction results for two brands: Rolex and Patek Philippe. But recently, the prices of one French-founded jewellery and watchmaking house have begun to climb. That’s right, Cartier is hot, with prices rising not only across the more common models, but also the top lots in auction catalogues. But what … ContinuedThe post Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” SJX Watches
Breitling Premier B01 wh Jun 14, 2021

Living With: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda”

Tudor was founded in 1946 expressly to offer good value, specifically, its founder Hans Wilsdorf (who’s better known to establish Rolex) wanted Tudor watches to offer the trademark dependability of its bigger brother, but at a more accessible price. Seventy-five years later that remains true, with watches like the Black Bay 58 being amongst the best dive watches in its price segment. When I covered the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Panda” at its launch earlier in the year, I wrote it is “likely the best-value sports chronograph one can find under US$5,000”. So I naturally jumped at the opportunity to test drive the watch for a week. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Chrono “Panda” is, on its face, a more accessible alternative to the Rolex Daytona, now virtually impossible to get at retail. The similarities between the two are obvious: a “Panda” dial with one line of red text, screw-down pushers, and a black tachymetre bezel. Yet to simply pigeonhole the Black Bay Chrono “Panda” as a more affordable Daytona would do it a disservice. The Black Bay Chrono possesses enough character to stand on its own. It’s instantly recognisable as a Tudor with the signature “snowflake” hands matched with round indices. Though the new Black Bay Chrono is near identical visually to the first-generation model, it has been refined with a slightly thinner case. Nevertheless, the watch is still relatively thick on the wrist, slightly beefier than the Breitling Premier B01 wh...

Editorial: The Strategic Genius of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s CHF681 million May 27, 2021

Editorial: The Strategic Genius of the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

Tudor just debuted the Black Bay Ceramic, an appealing watch that is compelling value. I like it, but it is a well-executed dive watch in black ceramic – not majorly significant in the grander scheme of things. But actually it is significant – shrewd and strategic in its concept, and a neat illustration of Tudor’s clever and patent strategy. Why? The answer lies in the industry landscape. Tudor’s parent is Rolex, the biggest luxury-watch brand in the world. According to Morgan Stanley estimates published in March 2021, Rolex sold almost CHF8 billion of watches at retail value in 2020. The equivalent number at Omega was a little under CHF3 billion, making it the second-largest luxury-watch brand. In the same report, Morgan Stanley pegged the retail-value sales for Tudor at CHF633 million, the result of having enjoyed double-digit growth for several years. Though it’s a modest number relative to Rolex and Omega, it is substantial. The figure puts Tudor a hair below Jaeger-LeCoultre’s CHF681 million, and bigger than Panerai’s CHF520 million. Tudor’s solid growth is attributable to many factors, most of which are encapsulated in the Black Bay Ceramic. Most obvious are the historically-inspired and thoughtful design, and of course the strong value proposition it represents. But more than that it is a masterstroke. Specifically, the METAS certification that makes the Black Bay Ceramic a Master Chronometer is a brilliant move. To be clear, Tudor officially has no...

Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch May 26, 2021

Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch

Wow. If you read my latest Tudor article detailing our favorite rumours ahead of the May 25th launch you’ll understand my shock yesterday morning when the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic was unveiled. Tudor, Rolex’s younger sibling within the Wilsdorf group, has clearly established it is the more adventurous brand of the duo (after all, their … ContinuedThe post Three curious takeaways from the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic launch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Geneva’s Auction Week May 2021: Record Results And High Notes, Especially For Independent Brands Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe models brought May 14, 2021

Geneva’s Auction Week May 2021: Record Results And High Notes, Especially For Independent Brands

Geneva’s second round of pandemic-era May auctions brought some fascinating offerings out of the woodwork. And people are buying watches at auction like there is no tomorrow. While Rolex and Patek Philippe models brought in most of the high-roller results, the three main houses with auctions running over the second weekend in May 2021 – Phillips, Christie’s, and Antiquorum – also generated fantastic results for watches by many other brands, including the independents.

Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Apr 23, 2021

Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Too often in the realm of celebrity watch spotting we are subject to the usual suspects: Rolex, Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille. There is nothing wrong with that, as we all admire and desire watches from those brands. But it is far more interesting … ContinuedThe post Usher flexes his spectacular Purnell watches worth more than $450k appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch Apr 19, 2021

Highlights: Sothebys’ Hong Kong Watch Auction

Taking place on Friday, April 23, 2021, Sotheby’s first live watch auction of the year takes place in Hong Kong. Important Watches is a full-sized sale led by the unique Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum with a turquoise “Stella” dial, which might just set the record for most valuable automatic Daytona ever sold at auction. But the 296-lot sale is diverse in the traditional manner of Hong Kong auctions, encompassing vintage Patek Philippe, modern grand complications, and an assortment of independent watchmaking. Here’s a roundup of a few noteworthy lots at the auction, including a Patek Philippe ref. 1518 in exceptional condition, a pair of gorgeous pocket watches decorated with the very best of Geneva miniature enamelling, and the F.P Journe Coffret 38 made up of five watches with steel cases. The auction will start at 11 am local time on April 23 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, while the catalogue and online bidding are available on Sothebys.com. Lot 2185 – Vacheron Constantin miniature enamel pocket watch The middle decades of the 20th century were a golden age for miniature enamelling in Geneva, with the cities best watchmakers recruiting its best enamellers to decorate pocket watches. One example of such work is lot 2185, a yellow gold pocket watch made in 1948 by Vacheron Constantin that bears a miniature enamel painting by Hélène May Mercier (1910-1996), an artisan who learnt the craft with another famed enameller, Carlo Poluzzi...

Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Patek Philippe but some Apr 13, 2021

Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders

With 40 brands presenting at Watches & Wonders, there are a lot of novelties to like – and many you may have missed. It was no secret most consumers were heavily awaiting releases from Rolex, Tudor, and Patek Philippe, but some of the most interesting watches came from brands you may not be as familiar … ContinuedThe post Five sleeper hits you may have missed during Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona Time+Tide
Tudor s Black Bay Chonograph Apr 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona

The new, all-steel Tudor Black Bay Chronograph seems to me like the sweet middle ground between two iconic watches.  I have a strained relationship with the Rolex Daytona – not that I can get one at retail – and feel it’s a bit too loud and well, Rolexy, even if I admire the quality. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

ANALYSIS: Gold Tudors are now selling but who exactly will be buying? Time+Tide
Tudor s are now selling Apr 7, 2021

ANALYSIS: Gold Tudors are now selling but who exactly will be buying?

Yesterday it is fair to say that Tudor hit a home run with their releases, notably introducing an attractive duo of precious metal Black Bay 58 watches as well as a revamped pair of panda-dialled Black Bay chronographs. Tudor was originally created to provide more affordable timepieces that leveraged Rolex designs and fabrication with mass-produced … ContinuedThe post ANALYSIS: Gold Tudors are now selling but who exactly will be buying? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mar 18, 2021

Christie’s Debuts Online Classes on Major Watch Brands

Christie’s Education, the learning division of the auction house, has just launched Behind the Curtain: Watchmaking Houses, a series of virtual classes catered to beginner enthusiasts that profile the most important watch brands – essentially the names that are typically the most sought after at watch auctions. Conducted by Geneva-based watch expert Antoine Géraud, the weekly courses cover the history, important watches, and key personalities at Patek Phillipe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Cartier. Each lecture is 75 minutes, and recordings of each session will be available for seven days after the class should participants wish to revisit. The programme is essentially a crash course, making it ideal for beginners who want to learn more about key brands. And the length of the lectures seems ideal – punchy and brief, but enough to convey the necessary knowledge. The Patek Philippe ref. 5101P 10 Day Tourbillon Alongside the watch history classes is a separate programme covering the biggest names in jewellery, taught by historian Vanessa Cron. Just like the watch classes, these will go into the stories behind names like Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, and Cartier. With jewellers often being watchmakers as well, burgeoning watch enthusiasts might find the jewellery classes useful too. An Audemars Piguet Grand Complication pocket watch that sold at Christie’s in 2019 The price of a single class is HK$1,200, or about US$150. The ...

How G-Shock is leading the pack on entry level collectables Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Mar 5, 2021

How G-Shock is leading the pack on entry level collectables

When it comes to watches and collectibility, the mind immediately gravitates to high-end manufacturers such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe. After all, these are the watches that we see the rich and famous sporting on their wrists, and each brand limits their level of supply to the point where the number of watches … ContinuedThe post How G-Shock is leading the pack on entry level collectables appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Premieres Short Film About Orcas, Whales, and a Remote Norwegian Island SJX Watches
Tudor Premieres Short Film About Mar 5, 2021

Tudor Premieres Short Film About Orcas, Whales, and a Remote Norwegian Island

Continuing with a tradition established by its founder Hans Wilsdorf – who famously equipped Mercedes Gleitze with a Rolex Oyster when she became the first Englishwoman to swim the Channel – Tudor has cultivated partnerships with many sportsmen and women, brand ambassadors who prove the durability of its watches. The brand’s latest endeavour took it to Spildra, a remote island off Norway, where it supported the production of a documentary that delves into the lives of orcas and whales. The brainchild of underwater film director Jean-Charles Granjon, The Quest for Nature stars Morgan Bourc’his, a world-champion freediver who’s long been a Tudor ambassador. Mr Bourc’his sporting a Pelagos Despite being in the sea his entire professional life, Mr Bourc’his professes a regrettable lack of experience with large marine mammals. He both yearns to meet them and bemoans their declining reducing populations. The film marks Mr Bourc’his’ first extensive experience with these marine creatures, something he describes as a “human and technical adventure in collaboration with nature and subject to nature’s desires.” An orca – better known as a killer whale but belonging to the dolphin family Searching for giant mammals The team started shooting in January 2019, but the environment turned out to be less than ideal, resulting in little useable footage. Learning that inauspicious start, they made a comeback 10 months later, armed with more personnel and equipme...

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 1, 2021

In-Depth: Mid-Century Movado Chronographs

Every time you read a story about the ocean, there’s a good chance you’ll see that it is “95% unexplored”, or “we know more about the surface of the moon than of the seafloor”. As most tropes go, they are as annoying as they are true, and in this case they’re also an apt metaphor for vintage watch knowledge. While the details of vintage Patek Philippe and Rolex have been mapped down to their going trains, numerous brands remain relatively uncharted – a Marianas Trench’s of knowledge awaiting exploration. Midcentury Movado chronographs lie squarely at those depths; let’s dive in. As we arrive at the door of our submersible, we must first acknowledge those who have assembled taxonomies of this scantly-explored abyss: the late Fritz van Osterhausen, author of The Movado History, and the excellent M95 chronograph reference the e-newsletter Rescapement published a few years ago. Using their ballast - no, I haven’t run out of nautical metaphors yet - we hope to fathom yet further. Today, we’ll peer into with what many consider the pinnacle of Movado collecting, its exceptionally-cased midcentury chronographs. History Until the 21st century, Swiss watch production was predominantly a cottage industry. Specialists manufactured the case, dial, or ebauche (movement blank), and peddled their wares to as many brands as possible. While final products were modified to brand specifications, family traits are easily discernible across marques that shared sup...

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Feb 19, 2021

Business News: Swissôtel Basel Declared Bankrupt

While not the fanciest hotel in Basel – that title goes to Les Trois Rois across the river – the Swissôtel Le Plaza Basel was synonymous with the luxury watch brands that exhibited in Baselworld, the once dominant watch fair that was crippled by the departure of key exhibitors like Rolex and Patek Philippe, and then the pandemic. Located just across the street from Messe Basel, the sprawling convention centre where Baselworld once took place, the Swissôtel Basel was declared bankrupt by a Basel court in early last month. The hotel was heavily dependent on the city’s primary trade fairs, Art Basel and Baselworld. According to past news reports, over 60% of revenue at the Basel hotel came from trade fair bookings. And those trade fair bookings were exorbitant. So pricey that only the industry’s biggest movers and shakers could stay there – the hotel typically imposed a 10-day minimum stay for Baselworld leading to a bill of about 7000 Swiss francs per room – the Swissôtel Basel was a place where you could spot Thierry Stern, any one of the Hayeks who control Swatch Group, and the occasional Bugatti parked in front. According to industry insiders who had rooms booked for Baselworld 2020, the hotel did not offer refunds and instead moved the bookings to 2021. With clients sitting at the bottom of the ranking of creditors, it is unlikely that any of the fees will be repaid. Though managed by Accor, the French group that owns the Swissôtel brand, the Swissôtel...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track Time+Tide
Longines Silver Arrow Feb 17, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track

We can all get caught up in the latest news about Nautilus or the next unobtainable Rolex. But for the majority of watch buyers, the most important timepieces are those that are accessibly priced and offer a ton of value.  One brand that constantly delivers in this regard is Longines, a manufacture of longstanding heritage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Silver Arrow is the watch that Don Draper would wear to the race track appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight? Time+Tide
Tudor Pelagos Feb 8, 2021

HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight?

Value is a key buzzword in the watch world. Considering this is a luxury industry, any proposition that poses an opportunity to get more than you paid for inspires awe and intrigue from buyers worldwide – and rightfully so. At the same time, Rolex can be a challenging brand for new consumers. The ability to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Is the Tudor Pelagos the overlooked dive watch heavyweight? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review Pros Jan 21, 2021

2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review

Pros: El Primero 3600 movement with 1/10th of a second chronographTri-coloured dials add a touch of class Rolex Ceramic Daytona anyone? Cons: Some may find it heavy on the wrist after a long period of wearTo change links have to unscrew using two screwdriversSome may not appreciate the monochromatic oscillating weight Over All Rating: 8.1 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8.5/10Build Quality – 8/10 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Zenith has shown great success during the LVMH Watch Week 2020 in Dubai, which is why alongside other LVMH brands, they are now releasing their latest watches in a one-week online event. Zenith will put together a special presentation that is a mix of digital and physical representations to showcase the latest timepieces.  Reference: 03.3100.3600/69.M3100 One of these latest models to leave the Zenith Manufacture is the new Chronomaster Sport. For Zenith, 2021 has been dubbed the year of the Chronomaster. The focus of the LVMH week for Zenith will of course then be on this latest Chronomaster Sport release, which features an evolved version of the El Primero movement, now being able to allow for 1/10th of a second measurement!  Zenith CEO Julien Tornare spoke about the importance of LVMH event and also Chronomaster by stating that “My team and I are thrilled to finally be able to share with you something we’ve been working on for quite some time – a true evolution of a mod...

IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned Jan 21, 2021

IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival

Ok, here’s a fact: The Rolex Daytona owes a debt to the Zenith El Primero. A modified version of the El Primero movement powered the Daytona for 12 years, and marked the first automatic Daytona models. This all happened when I was merely 12 years old, in 1988. And now, Zenith is taking that debt … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Prepare to be shocked, bamboozled and charmed by the weirdest watches of 2020 Time+Tide
Omega Dec 29, 2020

Prepare to be shocked, bamboozled and charmed by the weirdest watches of 2020

Every year, the Time+Tide team publishes NOW, our annual print extravaganza. As it says on the cover, essentially it’s a watch buying guide that rounds up the year’s most notable releases into a greatest hits compilation of about 200 watches. But in amongst the usual suspects from the likes of Rolex, Omega and co are … ContinuedThe post Prepare to be shocked, bamboozled and charmed by the weirdest watches of 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling Time+Tide
Dec 28, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling

When you’re a 25-year-old footballer earning upwards of £100,000 a week, a standard luxury watch can feel a little pedestrian. As Esquire UK’s Finlay Renwick writes in this illuminating story into the lifestyles of football’s elite: “For the best and boldest in Europe, your run of the mill Big Bang, Nautilus or Submariner just won’t … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: MJJ Exclusive is where Europe’s top footballers buy their bling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Richard Mille … ContinuedThe Dec 25, 2020

From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame

Basketball is back and not in the bubble! But while the players battle it out on the court, as always, an equally fascinating sideshow will also unfold for watch enthusiasts. That’s because the NBA is not only home to some of sport’s biggest superstars, but also some superstar watch collections. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Richard Mille, … ContinuedThe post From LeBron to Steph Curry, the NBA superstars totally slam-dunking their #wristgame appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Prices Reached: 12 Watches On The Block At Phillips New York December 2020 Racing Pulse Auction, Including Some Celebrity-Owned By Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Bono, Andy Warhol, And John Lennon Quill & Pad
Panerai history including Dec 14, 2020

Prices Reached: 12 Watches On The Block At Phillips New York December 2020 Racing Pulse Auction, Including Some Celebrity-Owned By Steve McQueen, Paul Newman, Bono, Andy Warhol, And John Lennon

The Phillips Racing Pulse auction showcased something of a timeline of Panerai history, including the legendary Luminor Slytech Daylight owned by Sylvester Stallone, as well as Paul Newman's own Rolex Daytona and Steve McQueen's own Heuer Monaco from the filming of 'Le Mans.' Elizabeth Doerr shares 12 of the extremely entertaining highlights here and the prices that the watches sold for.