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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Oct 8, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Moser Swiss Alp Watch is less a clever gimmick than it is just great

The Moser Swiss Alp Watch is a thoroughly intriguing proposal, in what seems a familiar smooth shape of a rectangular pebble with re-imagined wire lugs. Your non-horologically biased mates, family and colleagues will no doubt pose the question as to why this has a crown and a hand-sewn alligator strap, only to be silenced by … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Moser Swiss Alp Watch is less a clever gimmick than it is just great appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Blancpain 2 new Fifty Fathoms Sep 30, 2020

Blancpain: 2 new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphes- Chronographe Flyback and Day Date with live pictures

Blancpain introduces two Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe watches - the Chronographe Flyback with a green dial, and a Day Date 1970s in a desert sand coloured dial. We had a hands-on session with the watches earlier today, and will publish our detailed findings soon. But in the meantime, here is the press release and some of our live photographs.

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SJX Watches

Longines unparalleled history Sep 29, 2020

Rewriting History – Discovering the Earliest Flyback Chronograph Wristwatch

As a collector, I find myself in the rather sparsely populated niche of observatory chronometers. Due to Longines’ unparalleled history in precision timekeeping, the brand became a long-standing, personal favourite. Notably, competition chronometer movements, like the 30B with its off-centre construction and the rectangular 360, strike all the right chords with me. Along the way, I inevitably bumped into Longines’ outstanding in-house chronograph calibres – in chronological order, the 13.33Z, 13ZN, and 30CH – which opened a new door away from my focused, chronometer-centric journey as a collector. And it also led me to a discovery that rewrites horological history, one that gives Longines the title of having produced the very first flyback wristwatch chronograph, as well as the first chronograph wristwatch with two pushers. A catalogue page showing various Longines chronograph movements in the 1930s, with the topmost pair being for wristwatches, and the others for pocket watches 13.33Z Though Longines had produced several remarkable wristwatch chronograph movements, a two-pusher flyback chronograph powered by the 13.33Z had become the object of my desire. A watch that was only produced in minuscule quantities and remains largely unknown to even the most discerning of collectors, with only eight examples known the market. A long and winding quest ensued that ultimately resulted in the opportunity to acquire an exceptional example from a private collection in German...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Sep 27, 2020

Beauregard Dahlia And Lili: Opening Like A Flower

Elizabeth Doerr has not seen a watch by Alexandre Beauregard’s little firm that she hasn’t immediately fallen in love with. The Dahlia with its central flying tourbillon movement and hand-carved stone petals is just perfect. And along comes the more affordable, rectangular Lili. Flowers have rarely looked so good!

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Longines Tuxedo Sep 24, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list

It’s a dark, rainy afternoon in Melbourne with temperatures plunged back below 10 degrees. But it’s always sunny when you can write the Wind Down from the office with colleagues around - 1.5m away, of course, but at least around! Today is my first day back in the office for what I would guess to be … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Casio nally collaborations Sep 22, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’

Conceived as an imagined, 19th-century take on MB&F;’s uber-modern, sci-fi inspired Horological Machines, the Legacy Machines (LM) draw inspiration from the aesthetic of the era – and the works of Jules Verne – to create a steampunk-meets-classical-watchmaking timepiece. Now the spirit of the LM have been made tangible with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’.  The series is limited to just eight watches in red gold, each featuring a dial depicting a scene from Verne’s novels, rendered in minute detail with the hand engraving of Eddy Jaquet, a Swiss artisan who has worked with an array of watchmakers but perhaps best known for his work on Voutilainen watches. Initial thoughts The new LM Split Escapement (SE) is a departure from the typical MB&F; watch, which usually emphasises technical aspects, like movement construction or finishing, or case design and materials (and occasionally collaborations with contemporary artists). Instead the new LM SE is all about artisanal craft, something that is familiar territory for independent watchmakers like Voutilainen but novel for MB&F;. Though such artistically decorated timepieces are not a traditional strength of MB&F;, the result is an attractive watch. The engraving is impressively done, and avoids appearing monochromatic thanks to its depth. The intricate, pictorial engraving also complements the style of the LM, making the whole greater than the sum of the parts. In fact, it can be argued that the original LM SE w...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Introduces Sep 18, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001

Patek Philippe has just taken the covers off the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G-001, a medium-sized take on its original dual-time zone aviator’s watch. Originally launched in pink gold, and then in steel as a limited edition, the compact pilot is now available in white gold. Now very much a familiar part of the Calatrava range, the pilot’s watch was a surprise when it was first launched. A radically new design for the classical watch manufacturer when it debuted in 2015, the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time sparked some controversy, mainly centred the generic aviator’s watch look and the oversized pushers. Several additional models later, the Calatrava Pilot is a full collection of watches, ranging from the time-only limited edition made for the New York Grand Exhibition to an alarm that chimes like a repeater, and now the mid-size Travel Time in white gold. Initial thoughts While the sporty look suits the original model with its large 42 mm case, the smaller case appeals to people with more traditional tastes or smaller wrists, making the new mid-size version an intuitive and complementary edition to the line. It’s essentially a more wearable version of an appealing watch. The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time looks more youthful than the average Calatrava, though that’s changing with recent releases like the ref. 6007A, owing to the oversized numerals and large pushers. Still, in traditional Patek Philippe style, the overall feel is refined for a pilot’s wat...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph Sep 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible

As you may have seen here and here, we have been taking a closer look at the latest chapter in the TAG Heuer Carrera collection that sees a total redesign of one of the brand’s most historically important families. But within this new collection, the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph green dial catches the eye … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Aug 31, 2020

We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself)

As Georges Kern, Patrick Pruniaux, Jean-Christophe Babin and a dozen-or-so other watch CEOs stood on stage in a moment of solidarity to pose for a group photo, behind them a big Geneva Watch Days sign went largely unnoticed, obstructed from view by the hussy of wrist-displaying head hunchos. Some smiled, some straightened their ties and … ContinuedThe post We filmed behind-the-scenes at Geneva Watch Days to show you what a watch fair is like in 2020 (it’s as weird as the year itself) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Aug 29, 2020

Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist

Wow, so that was an experience I didn’t expect to have in 2020. A few days in Geneva, yes. But in August, with the sun out and zero time spent in Palexpo halls? Nonetheless, wherever there are new watch releases, Time+Tide is always on the ground. In no particular order, here are what I thought were … ContinuedThe post Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their Aug 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days

Girard-Perregaux is not holding back at the Geneva Watch Days, launching their complete but limited Infinity Editions, a tempting collection set around the dark opulent theme of gold, polished black onyx and titanium. At first, it seems an incongruous marriage of past and future: the rarely seen deep gloss black of onyx associated with jewellery … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Girard-Perregaux Infinity Editions show their dark side at Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Grand Seiko case design However Aug 26, 2020

Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged Series

Well regarded for offering strong value, the Seiko Presage has seen a proliferation of variations in dial styles, ranging from stamped patterns to high-end materials like fired enamel and porcelain. The diversity of dials continues with the Presage Sharp Edged Series. The new quartet of watches all feature a dial decorated with a repeating motif inspired by a traditional Japanese leaf pattern. But as the model name suggests, the new watches also boast a new case design that, with the use of edges and angles, creates the play between light and shadow – an attempt, in other words, to give the Presage a more upscale case finish. Initial thoughts The new Presage is slightly pricier than earlier models, but boasts several smart details that set it apart. Both the case and dial have been refined as compared to previous generations. The case has slightly more elaborate finishing, while the dial is decorated with a stamped pattern that catches the light nicely. And that continues right down to details like the the applied markers and date window frame. All of that makes it a value buy at US$1,000, though the higher price tag means it is not as much of a screaming deal as its predecessors. Refined case lines At first glance, the angular case with its wide lugs is reminiscent of the 44GS case, perhaps is the most recognisable Grand Seiko case design. However, the Presage Sharp Edged is not merely Grand Seiko “lite”. With a contrasting brushed top on the lugs, the watch looks s...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Aug 24, 2020

Just Because: The Pros And Cons Of The Different Types Of Travel Watches

The invention of time zones gave us multi-time-zone watches. But which works best when you're on the road?

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Greubel Forsey Introduces Aug 24, 2020

Greubel Forsey Introduces the Balancier S

Having introduced its first sports watch last year – a no-expense-spared world time-tourbillon – Greubel Forsey has followed up with a simpler model that is still constructed to the same high level of fit and finish, the Balancier S. The Balancier S channels the look and feel of the its bigger brother, but with a time-only movement in a thinner case as well as a more affordable price, relatively speaking. Initial thoughts Though I have only seen Balancier S in photos, I am certain it has the look and feel of the GMT Sport – that’s the very point of it. So the Balancier S is large watch that is lighter than it looks, and one that sits well on the wrist because of the arched case back. The aesthetic is a techno-mechanical variation of Greubel Forsey’s usual aesthetic that works well for a sports watch, though it cannot be described as beautiful. And as with all Greubel Forsey watches, fit and finish is exemplary, especially for a sports watch. Although the movement is simpler than in the GMT – most of the back is covered by finely-finished, large bridges – it still has the details typical of Greubel Forsey, including jewels in chatons and expertly polished hands. But all of that comes at a price, and just over US$200,000, this is a very expensive sports watch. All about balance According to Greubel Forsey cofounder Stephen Forsey, the starting point for the Balancier S was to “deploy [Greubel Forsey’s] in-house balance wheel at a 30 degree incline”. The r...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs Aug 22, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast

If you were to pick Girard-Perregaux’s Jekyll & Hyde, this would be the pair of watches that fit the bill; the Laureato 38mm and the Laureato Absolute Chronograph. Girard-Perregaux is a distinguished but quiet presence on the horological scene, and have a history whose shadow and depth extends well beyond the brand’s current day reputation. … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Vs. the Laureato Absolute Chronograph – the Beauty and The Beast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Aug 21, 2020

In-Depth: The Modern Watch Escapement, And How It Got That Way

"An interest in escapements is a sign of horological maturity." –Jack Forster

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Hublot Spirit Aug 20, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist

The advent of Hublot’s Big Bang essentially launched the provocative, innovative and disruptive brand. The brainchild of horological mega-doyen Jean-Claude Biver, the Big Bang arrived on the scene way back in 2004, and since then, it has not only reinvigorated but redefined what Hublot stands for. The evocatively named, plus-sized timepiece has been the wrist-worn proving … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold is kingmaker on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Aug 13, 2020

NEWS: Smartwatches set for 10% decline in 2020, while wearables power on in the pandemic, up 137%

We recently reported that the Apple watch has gone from strength to strength in the last reporting period, and now outsells the entire Swiss watch industry to the tune of 10 million watches. Smartwatches, as a category however, are not exactly sweeping all before them in 2020. While wearables have seen significant growth over the … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Smartwatches set for 10% decline in 2020, while wearables power on in the pandemic, up 137% appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Aug 11, 2020

Hanhart Bronze 417 Chronograph According to Wei Koh

Revolution is proud to re-issue the Hanhart 417 Chronographin quick-patinating bronze CuSn8, inspired by the brassing seen in vintage 417 Chronographs

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Seiko answer people’s prayers Aug 9, 2020

Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models

Say what you will, but there are few cooler mods you can make to a stainless steel sports watch than removing its bezel … just ask Marlon Brando. It’s obviously a sentiment that Seiko agrees with, as 2020 has seen them release no fewer than 11 new iterations of its iconic 5 Sports model without … ContinuedThe post Seiko answer people’s prayers with the smaller and bezel-less 2020 Seiko 5 Sports models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Rado Arizona Aug 9, 2020

How The Native American Ancestral Puebloans Kept Track Of Time – Reprise

If you’ve been lucky enough to travel to the “four corners” area of the southwestern United States (where U.S. states Utah, Colorado, Arizona, and New Mexico “meet”), then you may have seen or even visited some of the cliff dwellings built by ancient native peoples. Read on to find out what we know about how this ancient tribe now known as the Ancestral Puebloans kept time and why.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia – Reprise One Aug 1, 2020

Equus Forma Mechanica: The Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia – Reprise

One viewing of the Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia in action is enough to confirm that its two horses’ gaits seem completely fluid and natural. The Hippologia displays two horses, a mare, and a foal taking a stroll around a Lalique glassware cabinet enclosing the highly complicated automaton and eight-day clock movement. This is an object that needs to be seen to be believed.

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin all owned Jul 23, 2020

Business News: Watches & Wonders Shanghai to Happen September 2020

With its Geneva debut in April 2020 cancelled due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the watch fair once known as SIHH is moving to Shanghai. Its organisers have just announced Watches & Wonders Shanghai will take place from September 9-13, 2020 at West Bund Art Center. W&W; Shanghai will see only 11 brands take part, down from 30 at the Geneva event. The exhibiting brands are A. Lange & Söhne, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, and Vacheron Constantin – all owned by Swiss luxury group Richemont – as well as independently-owned brands Parmigiani Fleurier and Purnell. Like the original fair in Geneva, the Shanghai event will be invite-only, and will include new product launches, talks, as well as watchmaking classes. Alongside the physical exhibition in Shanghai, W&W; will also unveil the new products on its website. With the Chinese watch market now in the midst of a sharp upturn post-pandemic – evidenced in the results of both Richemont and the Swatch Group – China is likely the single largest national market for luxury watches that is operating close to normal, making the migration of the event from Geneva to Shanghai eminently logical.  

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Longines Heritage Collection Jul 15, 2020

VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches

If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, it should come as no surprise that the Longines Heritage Collection has gone from strength to strength over the last few years. An early sign of the success that was to come was the Longines Heritage Diver 1967 in 2015 (a watch that was kindly donated to the Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The 2020 Longines Heritage Collection is pure class, from the tuxedo to the skies and the trenches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Deployant

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph Jul 11, 2020

Hands-on review: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar Chronograph is arguably the most captivating piece in the new Master Control series. The case is sharper than before in finishing, with more straight edges as opposed to rounded sides. Accompanied with the easily patinated strap, there is a certain sportiness to the otherwise classical watch. While the triple calendar may be seen as a budget calendar, the overall merit to the watch is its versatility.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Audemars Piguet Omega Jul 7, 2020

His & Hers: 4 of the best couples watches money can buy, including Audemars Piguet, Omega and TAG Heuer

Recently, a reader from the Land of the Free dropped us a line asking if we could help with a conundrum he’d been having. You see, this lovely fellow and his wife are soon to celebrate their 20th wedding anniversary, and he wants to purchase a matching his and hers set of timepieces to mark … ContinuedThe post His & Hers: 4 of the best couples watches money can buy, including Audemars Piguet, Omega and TAG Heuer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro Jul 7, 2020

Highlights: Independents and the Esoteric at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Taking place on July 10, The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X is the one of the first watch auctions in Hong Kong in 2020, a sign of the much-delayed auction calendar due to the pandemic. But the Phillips catalogue is still 269 lots strong, with a little bit of everything. We took a look at some of the notable complicated watches last week, including the magnificent A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph that’s a strong value buy in uber-complications. Now, we’ll take a look at some of the timepieces by independent watchmakers as well as a handful of interesting, esoteric, and well-priced watches. You can find the rest of the catalogue here. Lot 806 – Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” This sits squarely in the category of weird-but-cool watches. Extremely large at 44 mm, with massive lugs and an even larger crown guard, the Girard-Perregaux Sea Hawk II Pro “Challenger of Record” is a dive watch rated to 3,000 m – three-thousand metres, or 9,800 feet – with a sharply finished, tourbillon-equipped movement. The combination is paradoxical, and slightly silly, but the watch has a peculiar charm, no doubt helped by its affordability (with a low estimate a little under US$20,000). Made in 2006, a time when diving tourbillons were fashionable and when Girard-Perregaux was still a family-run firm owned by the Macalusos – the certificate for the watch is signed by the late Luigi “Gino” Macaluso – the Sea Hawk tourbillon was a limited edition of 32 w...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Grand Seiko Snowflake Jul 7, 2020

Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity

Editor’s note: When people talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake as being one watch, they are in fact forgoing the many and varied shades of snow that Grand Seiko has showered us with since the OG became almost a pillar in itself. Here, we choose a Snowflake for every season, to show the nuance and … ContinuedThe post Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Bovet Jul 5, 2020

Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: It’s Mind Blowing! (Live Photos)

Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: the story continues. Indications include hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, moon phase, and a world time/second time zone display. All of which is powered by an entirely new double-sided flying tourbillon movement with totally new architecture. Warning: it may blow your mind!

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Jul 5, 2020

Throwback Sundays: Six recommendations for watches with seconde morte

We recommend six watches with seconde morte: from F. P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, Petermann Bedat, Habring², Jaeger-LeCoultre and Arnold & Son.

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