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Swiss Made

Legally regulated country-of-origin mark. Since 2017 requires at least 60% Swiss production cost, Swiss movement, Swiss development, and Swiss assembly and inspection.

Takeaways from Attending My First Live Watch Auction SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue Dec 30, 2022

Takeaways from Attending My First Live Watch Auction

I have always been fascinated by the drama that unfolds at a live watch auction – the excitement, the applause that accompanies a record hammer price, and the occasional silence when there are no bids to be found made. As a collector, the drama that unfolds adds colour to the hobby and adds another dimension to the business.  I had long tuned in for the livestream of auctions since I purchased my first vintage timepiece almost a decade ago. I followed the blockbuster results in the salerooms of the three leading auction houses, Phillips, Sotheby’s and Christie’s, but I had yet to experience being in the room until my outing to the recent fall sales in Hong Kong.  Watching the gavel fall on screen I knew I had to attend a live auction after watching the Sotheby’s Geneva auction that took place in December 2014. On my laptop I saw the sale of the Henry Graves Supercomplication unfold, when the man with the red tie, whom I later discovered to be Aurel Bacs, won the watch for US$24 million.  A few years later, while commuting to my first job out of college, I caught the exact moment when Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona sold for a record at Phillips’ in New York. More recently, I tuned in for the sale of the F.P. Journe FFC Blue at Only Watch last year. Even though I only watched these sales on a screen, it is clear that watch auctions at the highest level are almost a competitive sport, with bidders from across the world or the aisle locked in a ...

VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing Time+Tide
Dec 28, 2022

VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing

Ball may not be the most recognisable name in Swiss watchmaking, but their heritage goes all the way back to 1891, and the heyday of railroad timers. In fact, due to an Ohio railroad collision (the Great Kipton Train Wreck), founder Webb C. Ball, a well-known jeweler, instituted a railroad timekeeping standard to prevent future … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQuest II Ceramic is a beast of a dive watch – and that’s a good thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications

Most brands, especially the establishment names, stuck to the evolutionary rather than revolutionary in 2022, which also held true for the latest complications for the year. Nearly all of the year’s most notable complications were derived from past concepts. But the result can still be impressive, as demonstrated by the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. The latest version of a watch that was revolutionary when it was introduced in 2001, the Freak S embodies the ideas that made the original Freak a milestone, including the unorthodox movement construction and the liberal use of intricately-shaped silicon components. But above all it boasts a far more complex regulator that takes the form of twin oscillators connected by a differential. As outlined in our in-depth review, the twin-balance setup was mostly found on classical (and expensive) chronometers from the likes of Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, making the Freak S an outlier with its hyper-modern design. And at US$137,000, it is also more affordable than similar complications from other makers. Standing in stark contrast to the aggressively contemporary styling of the Freak S is the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse. Typical of Cartier with its Roman numerals and ruby cabochon in the crown, the Masse Mystérieuse is inspired by the mystery clocks made by the jeweller in the first half of the 20th century. The result of over eight years of research and development, the Masse Mystérieuse was the final complication devised by C...

The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know” Time+Tide
Urban Jürgensen Dec 25, 2022

The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know”

Talk about a twist. Here’s a move I’m willing to bet very few people saw coming: a stainless-steel luxury sports watch from revered Danish/Swiss watchmaker Urban Jürgensen. This couldn’t have been more of an out-of-left-field development, considering that the brand, whose origins stretch all the way back to 1773, has long been known for its … ContinuedThe post The Urban Jürgensen One is the integrated bracelet sports watch for those “in the know” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Are Bulova Watches Good Buys? Here are 10 Watches that will Convince Y Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Dec 23, 2022

Are Bulova Watches Good Buys? Here are 10 Watches that will Convince Y

Founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova in 1875, originally with both its corporate headquarters and its manufacturing based in New York City, Bulova Watch Company is one of the most important historical watch brands in the United States. Many an American watch enthusiast has a story about the Bulova watch they inherited from a parent or grandparent, or about how their first watch was a Bulova before building up the financial wherewithal to delve into pricier Swiss luxury brands. Many of these enthusiasts may well be unaware of the many milestones that Bulova has contributed throughout its history - not just to American watchmaking to watchmaking in general - and how those milestones live on today in some of the brand’s most notable timepieces. Here we spotlight 10 important Bulova watches available now and the stories behind them; most are available in our online shop, many below MSRP. A Watch That Helped Win Wars: Bulova Hack Watch During World War II, Bulova took its patriotic duties as one of the few American-based watch companies quite seriously: many of its male employees joined the armed forces while female employees took over much of the watchmaking work at the factory. Bulova also devoted 25 percent of its advertising to the promotion of war bonds and stamps, a service for which it was awarded a distinguished service certificate by the U.S. government. Most notably, in the early 1940s, the company contracted with the United States government to produce i...

INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze Time+Tide
Laco Edition 97 Dec 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze

Laco is the type of brand that attracts a niche group of watch enthusiasts: those who are into old school pilot watches and that appreciate having the real deal. In 2022, anyone can buy a good-looking, well-made pilot watch from any of 100 brands at different prices. That’s because these watches are exceptionally legible and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Laco Edition 97 is a classic Type B pilot’s watch in bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours Time+Tide
Dec 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours

We’ve paid a lot of attention to the re-emerging Delma recently, a Swiss brand with nearly a century of unbroken history that not enough people knew about. It may also surprise you to learn that around 20 years ago, Delma integrated another brand into their company with a similar story - and that brand is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. is the latest watch from a young brand with big ideas Time+Tide
Dec 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. is the latest watch from a young brand with big ideas

The wristwatch hobby is often full of lore and ritual, with prescribed traditions and a general consensus that old age legitimises worth. BA111OD are an incredibly young brand having been started in 2019, which would ordinarily lose them a chunk of customers were it not for their relentless challenging of misconceptions about Swiss watchmaking. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. is the latest watch from a young brand with big ideas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: With The New F.P. Journe Octa Sport And Centigraphe Sport In Titanium (Live Pics, Full Specs, & Pricing) Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Dec 15, 2022

Hands-On: With The New F.P. Journe Octa Sport And Centigraphe Sport In Titanium (Live Pics, Full Specs, & Pricing)

When F.P. Journe unveiled his Octa Sports line of watches back in 2011, we (the royal watch collecting "we") could simply not believe how light they were. After all, the F.P. Journe "lineSport" pieces, being the Octa Sport and the Centrigraphe (CTS), were made entirely of aluminum. Yes, aluminum! They were so light, they almost felt fake (seriously). They were not fake, they were just absurdly light, and absurdly cool.

Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Dec 13, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359

Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...

Piaget Introduces the Polo Chronograph “Hope” SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces Dec 12, 2022

Piaget Introduces the Polo Chronograph “Hope”

A horological influencer in the Middle East, Hassan Akhras is behind the magazine Arab Watch Guide and Arab Watch Club (AWC), a community of collectors in the region. Like other regional clubs, the AWC has its share of limited editions made for its members, with the latest being the Piaget Polo Chronograph “Hope” Arab Watch Club Edition. Made to celebrate the seventh anniversary of the club, the edition is Mr Akhras’ first project with Piaget. Initial thoughts Special editions made for the Middle East usually intrigue me because they often have elements specific to the region, including the familiar Hindu-Arabic numerals on the dial. The Polo “Hope” takes a more subtle approach instead of the more overt styling often found on watches for the region. While the dial is eye-catching in its colour, the Hindu-Arabic numerals are found only on the chronograph registers and date wheel.  Aside from the Hindu-Arabic numerals, the palette makes the Polo “Hope” an attractive watch. It’s distinctly different from the variants of the model to date.  And even in its original form, the Polo S Chronograph has appealing dimensions at 42 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm in height. It’s a large, sporty watch but slim enough to slip underneath a cuff. Sadly, this timepiece is exclusive to its membership of the Arab Watch Club, and all 30 pieces have been sold out. First of many While Piaget has done limited editions for specific countries, the brand had not teamed up with a c...

INTRODUCING: Zenith closes out Extreme E’s sophomore season with new purple Defy Extreme E “Energy X Prix” Edition Time+Tide
Zenith closes out Extreme E’s Dec 6, 2022

INTRODUCING: Zenith closes out Extreme E’s sophomore season with new purple Defy Extreme E “Energy X Prix” Edition

The future is electric. And nowhere is this more apparent than in the world of motorsport. As we begin to leave fossil fuels in the dust, Formula 1 has now made the move to hybrid powertrains, and fully electric racing is already a thing. That includes the fast-paced world of Formula E, and the thrilling … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Zenith closes out Extreme E’s sophomore season with new purple Defy Extreme E “Energy X Prix” Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5935A World Time Dec 5, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5935A World Time Flyback Chronograph

While much of the buzz around Patek Philippe’s recent launches has been centred on the Nautilus ref. 5811/1G in white gold, the year has been mostly about other than the Nautilus and Aquanaut. Amongst the most notable new launches for 2022 is the World Time Flyback Chronograph ref. 5935A-001. Continuing with Patek Philippe’s development of steel watches beyond its traditional sports models, the ref. 5935A is a striking new take on a model that made its debut in 2016. Previously available only in precious metals (namely white gold or platinum), the ref. 5935A is the first of the model in stainless steel – and one of the brand’s few complicated watches in the metal. And the ref. 5935A is larger in diameter than its predecessor, but its most eye-catching feature is the dial in “rose-gilt opaline” (or “salmon” if you wish). Initial thoughts A World Time in steel is a big deal because the world time is arguably an iconic watch for Patek Philippe. Select vintage examples are amongst the handful of Patek Philippe references that can sell for high-seven or even eight figures. Granted the ref. 5935A adds a chronograph into the mix, but it is still modern take on a signature complication. The ref. 5935A retains the familiar Louis Cottier-type world time display that’s almost synonymous with Patek Philippe, but with contemporary materials and colours. And at 41 mm it is also larger than usual for a Patek Philippe complication, giving it something of a sporty feel...

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #28 “British Innovations in Watchmaking” Time+Tide
Dec 3, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #28 “British Innovations in Watchmaking”

When you think of watchmaking today, you likely immediately think of Swiss watchmaking. But, to give credit where it is rightfully due, British watchmakers are largely responsible for major escapement designs and many watchmaking innovations over the centuries. Test your knowledge on the subject below. Be warned, it is definitely of advanced difficulty for those … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #28 “British Innovations in Watchmaking” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The memes of the week: Self-delusion and Groundhog Day Time+Tide
Nov 26, 2022

The memes of the week: Self-delusion and Groundhog Day

She’s got your number via @youcanneverhaveenoughmemes Watches can be expensive. Often very expensive indeed. Sadly, for those of us that don’t manage hedge funds or aren’t oligarchs’ sons, this can have a very real knock-on effect on other areas of life. Sacrifices have to be made. Fiendishly complex feats of mental gymnastics must be performed … ContinuedThe post The memes of the week: Self-delusion and Groundhog Day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ is the Sports Chronograph with a Soft Touch Revolution
Angelus Nov 25, 2022

The Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ is the Sports Chronograph with a Soft Touch

The Angelus Chronodate that was relaunched this year can trace its roots all the way back to the original Chronodatos from the 1940s, a triple-calendar chronograph that were scarce commodities at the time. Despite retaining the big eye counters and central date indicator, the current Chronodate is resolutely contemporary with a multi-part exoskeleton case made […]

The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’ is the Dive Watch to Wear Incognito Under the Sea Revolution
Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’ Nov 23, 2022

The Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster ‘No Barracuda’ is the Dive Watch to Wear Incognito Under the Sea

Wei and Jeremiah talk about Nivada Grenchen, a brand that has been recently resurrected by Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat, and some of its incredibly well-made historical models that were field-tested and found to be superb tool watches. The Depthmaster is one of those models and we are honored to collaborate with Nivada to present […]

Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 Time+Tide
Laco s classic chronograph returns Nov 20, 2022

Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2

As one of the clear leaders of German-made pilot’s watches, Laco’s chronograph releases are few and far between. While the flieger essentials Type A and Type B get lots of attention – an archetype that Laco summited with their customisable Flieger PRO – the chronographs of the German air force were far less common but … ContinuedThe post Laco’s classic chronograph returns with the Laco Kiel.2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Nov 16, 2022

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team. Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside. Initial thoughts Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings. With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent. For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarp...