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Results for Equation of Time

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Dec 21, 2023

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today.  1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...

Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine SJX Watches
Raketa Dec 21, 2023

Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine

The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...

Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto! Revolution
Dec 21, 2023

Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto!

Bernhard Lederer, a highly skilled Master Watchmaker of German origin, has established himself in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Saint Blaise near Neuchâtel. His exceptional craftsmanship and innovative concepts stem from a unique perspective of “Thinking Different.” With a deep appreciation for the horological heritage and a profound respect for esteemed figures like John Harrison, […]

Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s Packs abounded Dec 20, 2023

Recapping the Worn & Wound x Carryology Austin Meetup

Whether it’s watches or packs, these items are seen by enthusiasts as core pieces of kit for daily adventures. Both work best when they’re rugged, versatile, and well-built-and both Worn & Wound and Carryology are dedicated to providing their readers with in-depth reviews and news around the latest in watches and packs. When we discovered that we were fans of each other’s publications-it became immediately clear that partnering in multiple ways would only strengthen each other’s audiences. Last weekend’s meetup in Austin, TX only proved that point more emphatically. Readers from both publications converged on one of the city’s most exciting new distilleries: Fierce Whiskers. This location served as the perfect backdrop for enthusiasts to connect, grab a custom cocktail or two, and show off their watches and packs.   Regardless of whether your primary interest was what’s on your wrist or what’s on your back-it was immediately evident that these enthusiasts were cut from the same cloth. Watches ranged from robust divers like Sinns and Seikos to refined, go anywhere, do anything daily drivers like Rolex Oyster Perpetuals and Grand Seikos. Packs abounded and came in the form of everything from a wide array of Carryology collabs to high-end custom builds. There were also a group of enthusiasts who came with both amazing watches on-wrist, as well wildly cool backpacks and other carry solutions. For them, this event was a mind-melting meld of two of their a...

Hands-on – The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve Monochrome
Union Glashütte Dec 20, 2023

Hands-on – The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve

Let’s cut to the chase. In my book, the Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve takes the crown as one of the most aesthetically pleasing, if not the most attractive watch currently offered by the brand. I’ve appreciated certain pieces in the Belisar and Noramis collections, and Union Glashütte consistently demonstrates a keen […]

Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dec 19, 2023

Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option

Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has introduced a nearly nonstop stream of variants in their popular “SBGW” line of 37mm, manually wound dress watches. We’ve covered these watches at length, because we’re honestly pretty big fans. There’s a lot to like: they are based on the original Grand Seiko design language dating back to the founding of the brand, they are relatively affordable when compared to other watches in the Grand Seiko catalog, and they possess an elegant simplicity that is easy to dress up or down with a simple strap change. And of course, as time passes, there’s seemingly no end to the colors and textures that might pop up. But one thing has eluded collectors, at least many in the United States, and that’s a bracelet option. The Japanese market has long had the ability to pair this case with an elegant stainless steel bracelet, but the American collector has to jump through some hoops. That changed last week in an update to the collection could serve to reset the “SBGW” experience.  The new SBGW305 sees the dress watch fashioned with a simple silver dial, and a case mounted to a five-row steel bracelet that appears to be virtually identical to the bracelet that was paired with the JDM model SBGW235. For a better look, you can check out our recent video on our team’s mutual love for Grand Seiko, where you’ll see Worn & Wound cofounder Zach Weiss guiding us through his own personal collection of Grand Seikos, which includes the SBGW2...

Introducing – IWC Teams Up with Warner Bros for Two Aquaman-Themed Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Monochrome
IWC Teams Up Dec 19, 2023

Introducing – IWC Teams Up with Warner Bros for Two Aquaman-Themed Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital

Today, IWC Schaffhausen announced partnering with Warner Bros. Picture’s upcoming feature film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom to launch two new models, inspired by the red and blue glowing prop watches that the brand supplied for the production of the highly-anticipated feature film sequel. Ultra-bold, clearly on the large side, equipped with multiple complications and […]

Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release Worn & Wound
Dec 19, 2023

Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release

While recovering from COVID, I recently watched a documentary I had heard about while listening to The Grey NATO Podcast. 14 Peaks: Nothing is impossible is the story of Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai Purja, who summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in only seven months. The previous record was 7 years! Nims’ goal was to highlight the Nepalese climbing community. To this day, climbing these peaks cannot be done without the incredible endurance, courage, strength, and sheer determination of the Sherpas.  It is these Sherpas that inspired Enicar in the 1950s to create dive watches that could not only withstand the depths at sea but get even more water-resistant the deeper you dove. Thus, the super-compressor was born. Sadly, Enicar did not survive the 1970s quartz crisis. Thankfully, all was not lost, as in 2019 Martin Klocke of Germany revived the Sherpa and created a brand around this model. Just like its namesake, these are proper super-compressors. Featuring many of the original features combined with modern technology and know-how across two models, the Ultradive and OPS. Now, a new version of the latter is available thanks to a collaboration with a popular watch podcast.  Sherpa has teamed up with The Real Time Show podcast, hosted by industry insiders Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nubbs, to create a sandblasted stainless-steel version of the OPS model (it was available only in polished steel or a black DLC finish previously). The result is a beautiful satin fin...

New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel Time+Tide
IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Dec 19, 2023

New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel

IWC reveals they created and delivered prop watches to be featured in the upcoming film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom. Inspired by these prop watches, IWC have launched two new Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month watches limited to 25 pcs. for each configuration. Black 49mm Ceratanium® cases, one with red accents and another with blue … ContinuedThe post New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on – The Funky Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Golden Bay and Ocean Breeze Monochrome
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Dec 18, 2023

Hands-on – The Funky Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Golden Bay and Ocean Breeze

There are only so many square-shaped timepieces that we dare call contemporary classics. Yet, the watches in the Seventies collection from Glashütte Original, first presented by the Swatch-group-owned brand in 2011, are worthy of the title and the praise. Unfortunately, the current Seventies line-up is limited to only 11 variations of the Chronograph Panorama Date, […]

What is Kollokium? The Mysterious Details Behind the Projekt 01 Worn & Wound
Louis Erard since 2020 overseeing Dec 18, 2023

What is Kollokium? The Mysterious Details Behind the Projekt 01

If you frequent certain corners of Watch Instagram, you likely came across a new and somewhat mysterious project last week called Kollokium. They appeared almost out of nowhere with minimal teasing, and presented a watch that you can’t yet buy that is certainly unique. The real story, though, is in the ethos of the brand itself. Part of that ethos is that they don’t actually consider themselves a brand at all, but a “project based platform” that exists to explore alternatives to traditional watchmaking.  It might help to start with the people behind the platform. Kollokium was founded in 2020 by three watch industry veterans: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi. Emch is perhaps the most well known of the three, and has been leading Louis Erard since 2020, overseeing the brand’s incredible turnaround from through the smart execution of desirable limited editions with interesting collaborators. Nussbaumer is a watch designer who over the years has worked with Louis Erard, Petermann Bedat, and other brands (you can follow him on Instagram here). And Amr Sindi will be more familiar by his Instagram handle, @thehorophile. You might recall that Sindi collaborated on a limited edition release with Louis Erard earlier this year, and you’ll begin to see how these three individuals are all tied together, and the collaboration begins to make a bit more sense as a creative outlet that can exist apart from their respective day jobs.  OK, so, the watch itself. The...

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists Dec 18, 2023

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists

The shortlist of five finalists has just been announced for the first ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, an award that seeks to recognise and reward notable independent watchmakers. Selected from the 20 semi-finalists by the award’s committee of experts, a line-up of over 40 notables that included Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee, author Nick Foulkes, Kari Voutilainen, and collector Mike Shanlikian, the five finalist watches and their makers will be judged by a jury of five who will ultimately decide the winner at a meeting on February 6, 2024. The five finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Raúl Pagès L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Reference 2941 – Petermann Bédat Chronometre Artisans – Simon Brette And the winner will be selected from these five by the jury of Carole Forstier Kasapi, head of movement development at TAG Heuer; collector and author Auro Montanari; retailer Michael Tay of The Hour Glass; watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi; and our founder Jiaxian Su. These five members were voted into their role by the committee of experts for this role. The eventual winner will receive a year-long mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps in order to further develop his creations, as well as a prize of €150,000. More about the finalists All five of these pieces are deserving of recognition and only go to highlight the vibrant market for independent creations we currently have. One of the...

Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde ... Dec 18, 2023

Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Unveiled earlier this year as part of its retrograde-theme collection, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is self explanatory: it combines a tourbillon, retrograde date, along with a self-winding movement. And in contrast to many date indications that are almost an afterthought, this presents the date in an elaborate, thoughtful manner. A clear sapphire dial shows off the retrograde mechanism, along with the base plate of the movement that’s been decorated with linear guilloche. And at six o’clock sits the tourbillon, with the cage in the Maltese cross emblem of Vacheron Constantin (VC), secured by a traditional bridge of polished steel. Initial thoughts Classically-styled watches sometimes suffer from the addition of a date display; dates often get in the way of the design or just don’t fit in. The Tourbillon Retrograde Date, in contrast, benefits from it. While the tourbillon might be the headline feature of the watch, and the peripheral winding the most novel, the retrograde date is  the most appealing mechanical detail. Retrograde displays are amongst the most striking dial-side complications because they are composed of parts in varying shapes, which allows them to be both beautiful and intricate when executed correctly, and here the date certainly is. Despite being a simple function in itself, the date is executed well – it is finely constructed and finished. The components of the retrograde display are clearly designe...

3 Annual Calendars from Patek Philippe, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Omega that Only Need Adjusting Once a Year – Reprise Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier Dec 17, 2023

3 Annual Calendars from Patek Philippe, Parmigiani Fleurier, and Omega that Only Need Adjusting Once a Year – Reprise

The annual calendar is much more practical than a standard calendar, which needs correction in all months with 30 days or less; the annual calendar only needs correcting once a year in February. For owners of this noble yet practical complication, making this adjustment marks a yearly highlight. In celebration of the annual calendar, here are three exciting new models to kick off 2024 in style.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Peek Behind the Curtain at Lego, Baseball’s Biggest Contract, and a Camera Lost Since the 1970s Provides Clues to a Mountain Mystery Worn & Wound
Dec 16, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Peek Behind the Curtain at Lego, Baseball’s Biggest Contract, and a Camera Lost Since the 1970s Provides Clues to a Mountain Mystery

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds by emailing us at info@wornandwound.com “Ghosts on the Glacier” from the New York Times In the New York Times this week there’s an absolutely stunning story, told with words, video, and incredible photographs, about a mountain expedition gone wrong in 1973. Writer John Branch conducted dozens of interviews to get to the bottom of what happened on Aconcagua, the peak in the Andes range that is the tallest in the western hemisphere, fifty years ago. What we already knew was that the expedition took the lives of John Cooper, a NASA engineer, and Janet Johnson, a schoolteacher from Denver and perhaps the group’s most talented climber. The intervening years saw contradictory statements from survivors, shrouding the trek in a layer of mystery. But a recent discovery, Johnson’s camera from the expedition with undeveloped film still inside, has provided new details on the team’s fate. It’s a riveting story with incredible images, and should be at the top of your reading list this weekend.   Jesse Armstrong Talks About the Succession Ending  Succession mania gripped many of us earlier this year, but if you’re still ...