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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection Worn & Wound
May 16, 2023

Hawaii’s Imperial Watch Co. Announces a Trio of New Variants in their Royalguard 200 Collection

Introducing the Hawaii based Imperial Watch Co. Royalguard 200, initially unveiled in October 2022. And when we say “unveiled,” we mean it was an instant sell-out hit, with every piece snatched up before it even had a chance to grace the hypothetical shelves. So it’s no surprise that Imperial is back, this time offering more of what made the Royalguard a fast success. The Royalguard’s reissue is now available in three limited edition colorways, featuring both date and no-date options. Imperial has also revived the original blue bezel variant, presenting it in a limited run of just 30 pieces with a date function. While the watch itself remains largely unchanged from its previous iteration, the new colorways add some variety, presenting new options to collectors who may have missed out on the Royalguard’s first release. Let’s dive into the new colors (pun always intended). First up is the Tropical, which captures the rusty brown and red tones reminiscent of a well-aged tropical bezel. Then we have the Ghosted Green, a soft, muted shade of green that changes from light green to a deep emerald depending on the light.  And of course, there’s the Classic Black, which exudes a vintage, almost gray faded aesthetic. The original blue bezel variant follows this same trend, with its muted, faded, and aged appearance. The Royalguard draws considerable inspiration from the iconic Eberhard Scafograf 200, notably in its glossy black dial that dances with the light. The ove...

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Worn & Wound Cofounder May 15, 2023

Windup Watch Fair San Francisco Panel Roundup

This year’s Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco featured a broad selection of panel discussions and interviews with brands exhibiting at the show and some of our favorite watch world personalities. We talked about the importance of technological advancement in modern watchmaking, deconstructing watch categories, making haute horlogerie available to the masses, and a whole lot more. If you were unable to attend the show in San Francisco but still want to get a taste of these panel discussions, we’ve recorded them and made them available below, and via our YouTube channel. We hope you enjoy, and we also want to thank all of our great panelists who participated in these discussions! Making Haute Horology for the Many with Christopher Ward Worn & Wound Cofounder Zach Weiss leads an in-depth discussion with Mike France, CEO of Christopher Ward on how the Bel Canto has helped change the game in the world of affordable high-end complications. Advancing Watchmaking into the 21st Century with Accutron Editor Zach Kazan at Worn & Wound leads a panel of experts discussing how a historic brand like Accutron is using technology, legacy, and culture and collaborations to continue to advance watchmaking into the 21st century. Panel experts include: Richard Callamaras – Accutron collector and Jason Gong – Complecto Founder and CEO. Deconstructing Watch Categories with Fortis Diving, Pilot, Field, or Driving watches suggest that they are made for divers, pilots and explorers, or dri...

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement Worn & Wound
May 15, 2023

Aera Updates their D-1 Diver and P-1 Pilot Watch with New Colors, Brighter Lume, and a Better Movement

New watch brands pop up all the time, but it’s less frequent that they arrive with fully realized and distinct design language right from the jump. Usually it takes time for a brand to kind of settle into itself, work out the kinks, and figure out what it is that makes them different from their many, many competitors. Aera is a British brand that came onto the scene last year with their D-1 (a diver) and P-1 (a pilot’s watch), and have just announced a pair of follow up references that are very much in the same vein, but have some subtle improvements as well. At first glance, Aera’s watches look almost run-of-the-mill, but a glance at the specs and a closer look at the dial design and small details of how each component hangs together reveal watches that actually inhabit a unique space in the enthusiast market. In short, these watches are big in every sense of the word. They have unapologetically large 43mm 904L steel cases and come in at 16mm and 15mm thick (for the diver and pilot’s watch, respectively) thanks to dramatically domed, double curved sapphire crystals. There’s a bulbous quality to the case design that recalls Ikepod, and when I had a chance to briefly wear a D-1 last year I was pleasantly surprised by how comfortable it was for a watch that would normally be outside the limits of what I’d wear on a regular basis in terms of size alone.  But they’re big in other ways too. The curved dials have large openings, much bigger than what you’d norma...

WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch Time+Tide
Grand Seiko finally made May 9, 2023

WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch

Editor’s note: What if? It can be a prefix of imagination, wonder and hope. On the other side of the coin, it can also provoke a melancholy game of hindsight. But within this new column, it is simply a space for us to experiment with our curiosity. Marvel fans will be familiar with the thought-provoking … ContinuedThe post WHAT IF… Grand Seiko finally made a smaller dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bravur Unveils a New Cycling Inspired Watch, Just in Time for Italy’s Giro d’Italia Worn & Wound
Bravur May 9, 2023

Bravur Unveils a New Cycling Inspired Watch, Just in Time for Italy’s Giro d’Italia

The transformation of Bravur, the small Swedish microbrand that has always taken a demonstrably Scandinavian approach to their watch designs, into a boutique label focusing largely on cycling influenced watches, has to be one of the least expected developments in our space over the past few years. Maybe it shouldn’t have been, though. Brand founders Magnus Äppelryd and Johan Sahlin are both cycling enthusiasts, and the design inspiration for their watches has always come from a personal place. Maybe it was only a matter of time? Of course, not all of the watches in their collection are cycling inspired, but limited edition chronographs released to mark major pro cycling races have become something of an expectation at this point, and it has changed the brand identity in a real way. The latest watch in this vein, the La Corsa Rosa III, continues the trend while establishing some new design notes as well.  I’ll come right out and say at the outset that I am not a cycling enthusiast. I don’t even really keep up with following cycling’s professional ranks in a casual way. I think that means I’m probably not the target market for these watches, but I have to say, I’ve always been really fond of them. I love watches that appeal to a very specific niche, the narrower the better, and these seem to fit that bill nicely. I’m also a big fan of the creative use of color on watch dials, and the general format Bravur has followed by borrowing traditional colors associate...

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Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward May 7, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 48: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2023 Special

We’re at Windup Watch Fair San Francisco for a special episode of A Week in Watches. With over 60 brands, this was the biggest Windup Watch Fair yet. Your hosts, Zach Weiss, Zach Kazan, and Blake Buettner will take you through some new releases from the fair, as well as take a look at some watches and brands that caught their eyes from Christopher Ward to Arcanaut. Be sure to keep an eye on windupwatchfair.com for information on future shows. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Worn & Wound+ Slack community, our new, free Slack channel for Worn & Wound fans. Will tons of conversations across various channels, Worn & Wound + is a fun environment to talk about watches with other like-minded enthusiasts as well as the Worn & Wound team. To join, all you have to do is sign up for the Worn & Wound newsletter, and an invite will come your way. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 48: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2023 Special appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer SJX Watches
May 5, 2023

Auction Watch: Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer

Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...

Auction Watch: A Unique Habring² Split-Seconds for a Good Cause SJX Watches
Apr 20, 2023

Auction Watch: A Unique Habring² Split-Seconds for a Good Cause

Last year Habring² finally delivered something collectors had long been seeking, a compact version of its signature split-seconds chronograph, which now forms the base for the Doppel 38 “Monochrome x Habring²”. A one-off that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction to benefit charity, the Doppel 38 is a collaboration between Habring² and Monochrome Watches, online watch magazine based in the Netherlands. The Doppel 38 takes its cues from the limited-edition chronograph Habring² made for the 15th anniversary of Netherlands-based Monochrome. Initial thoughts The one-off Doppel 38 is essentially a more complex version of Monochrome’s 15th anniversary edition, the Montre de Souscription 1 (MDS1), which was a conventional, single-button chronograph. Naturally the Doppel 38 sports a split-seconds movement and consequently, a slightly thicker case, but it is aesthetically almost identical to the MDS1, having the same “salmon” dial. Ordinarily, reissuing a limited edition in near-identical format is a no-no, but in this case it is both sensible and appealing because the Doppel 38 is a one-of-a-kind creation and it will be sold to benefit a children’s charity. It’s being offered with an estimate of CHF10,000-20,000 – the low estimate is approximately the retail price of the regular production Doppel 38 – which is certainly acceptable. And given the worthy recipient of the proceeds, one certainly hopes for more than the high estimate. Subtle tweaks ...

San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023 Product Preview! Worn & Wound
Accutron Accutron has built Apr 17, 2023

San Francisco Windup Watch Fair 2023 Product Preview!

The SF Windup Watch Fair is closer than ever! If you’ve been following along, you know Windup is growing fast. This year, we are returning to the same venue in San Francisco and doubling the floorplan, meaning more watches, more live events, more accessories, and a whole lot more in general. There will be hundreds of watches, watch accessories, and EDC items on display to try on and purchase. You don’t want to miss it. As a reminder, here are the key event details: Terra Gallery – 511 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94105 Friday, April 28: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, April 29: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, April 30: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public Here’s a sneak preview of just some of the watches from our Lead Sponsors you’ll be able to get your hands on at Windup this year. For a full roster of presenting brands, scheduled events, and a product showcase, head to windupwatchfair.com and join our email community. Accutron Accutron has built a name in innovation and exploration. Offering the world’s first fully electronic watch in 1960, Accutron changed the way the world told time. In 1962, Bulova produced the Accutron Astronaut, a 214-based GMT timepiece with a 24-hour rotating bezel, secondary 24-hour hand and hack function. Originally made for high altitude CIA spy plane missions in conjunction with emerging NASA rocket technologies, it also found commercial success. Accutron is proud to bring back the 1968 “T” version of the Astronaut model, featuring a di...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions Time+Tide
Hublot drops two new special Apr 14, 2023

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions

Earlier in the week it was revealed an incredibly significant pocket watch is about to hit the auction block, and, closing out the week, Hublot, even after a ton of novelty drops at Watches & Wonders, announced two new special editions. A fair bit to discuss, let’s jump right into it. Phillips to auction historically … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Phillips to auction Roger Smith’s handmade pocket watch, Hublot drops two new special editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023 Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe booths These brands Apr 12, 2023

One Watch to Rule Them All: A New Strategy Emerges at Watches & Wonders 2023

When you enter Palexpo, the enormous convention center that is home to Watches & Wonders, you have an immediate decision to make: right or left? A glance to the left and you see the Tudor, Rolex, and Patek Philippe booths. These brands, in a lot of ways, anchor the entire show, and dominate much of the conversation for the duration of the fair. If you look to your right, you’ll be greeted by something entirely different. This year, it was a giant Ingenieur, spread across the top of the IWC booth at the end of the hall, and it was hard not to get the message that this watch, and this watch alone, was the brand’s sole focus for Watches & Wonders this year. Building your Watches & Wonders presence around a single watch was a trend that came into sharp focus at this year’s event.  The IWC booth at Watches & Wonders, viewed from the opposite end of the hall. Whether brands took a literal one watch approach (like Ulysee Nardin, who only showed the new Freak ONE this year) or put the lion’s share of their backing behind one release but dropped a few additional under the radar pieces (like IWC), it’s a strategy that makes for a stark contrast with what feels like a more traditional practice of overwhelming everyone in the meeting with tray, after tray, after tray of new watches to try on, photograph, write about, and otherwise consider. The single watch strategy communicates a sense of confidence, that a brand has hit on something so good that they don’t need to muddy...

Why watch puns tick me off Time+Tide
Apr 8, 2023

Why watch puns tick me off

In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Apr 8, 2023

10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner

If you ever lose a watch at Mosman’s Balmoral beach in Sydney, it would seem there is a particular family you need to call to increase your odds of its retrieval. The Daily Mail reported that an elderly British man lost his 1975 Cartier Santos watch while visiting the Sydney beach, but thankfully enlisted a … ContinuedThe post 10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Market Trends and Predictions: 2023 and Beyond Quill & Pad
Mar 27, 2023

Watch Market Trends and Predictions: 2023 and Beyond

Throughout 2022, there has been an economic shift globally. Thankfully, we have moved forward from the pandemic, however, we are now entering a period of higher interest rates in response to inflation. With this, consumer patterns will change and the watch industry will be affected. So Raman Kalra thought it might be interesting to look at historical watch trends and give his predictions on what shifts we will see on our wrists over the next 5-10 years.

Citizen Takes a Big Step with a New Eco-Drive Movement in a 1970s Inspired Watch Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Mar 20, 2023

Citizen Takes a Big Step with a New Eco-Drive Movement in a 1970s Inspired Watch

A recurring theme that we’re seeing in the watch enthusiast space this year is a heightened interest in interesting quartz watches. It comes up all the time on our podcast, on Instagram, and certainly in the YouTube comments for our recent coverage of a quartz release from TAG Heuer. Clearly, there’s an appetite for this stuff, but it seems like the big Swiss brands are still a step behind their Japanese counterparts in terms of delivering watches that are high on value while pushing the envelope in terms of quartz tech. Exhibit A: Citizen, and their new Eco-Drive 365 line, which gives us a fairly substantial movement upgrade in a package that doesn’t look quite like anything else on the market.  The big news here is the introduction of the all new Caliber E365 Eco-Drive movement. As the name implies, these light powered movements have a running time of an entire year on a full charge. That’s an impressive accomplishment, just about doubling the running time of a standard Eco-Drive movement, which already made for the ideal watch to completely forget about in a sock drawer for months at a time. The new caliber is able to maximize power consumption for an even longer running time than previous movements while keeping the same 27mm diameter as its predecessor. The new E365 calibers are accurate to within 15 seconds per month.    For the first batch of E365 releases (which unfortunately won’t be available until fall of this year) Citizen is looking back to the e...

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise Quill & Pad
Christiaan van der Klaauw Reprise While Mar 18, 2023

Green On Green: 4 Verdant Watch Dials From Glashütte Original, Armin Strom, Omega, And Christiaan van der Klaauw – Reprise

While the increasing popularity of green dials contributes to a more colorful universe of watches, Martin Green sometimes finds the use of this color a bit much these days. That said, the following recently introduced watches are home runs for Martin because their green dials are just right!

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow Worn & Wound
Mar 17, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Here are Five (More) Instagram Accounts We Think Are Worth a Follow

Last month, Zach Kazan brought us 5 Instagrams accounts with endlessly awesome watch content to scroll through. If you ask us, the key to a good Instagram feed is diversity, so we’re here with 5 more recommendations that we think will add some real value to your well earned scrolling time. We’ve got a little of everything here, including a few bonus picks outside of the realm of watches to keep your sanity in check.  Without further ado, here are 5 (and a bit more) selections from our Managing Editor, Blake Buettner. As always, if you have any of your own recommendations for us, feel free to leave them in the comments below! Header image credit: @talkingabouttime @talkingabouttime   View this profile on Instagram   Stephen (@talkingabouttime) • Instagram photos and videos Stephen, aka talkingabouttime is a photographer with some serious skills in catching the details of watches from some of our favorite brands. Stephen also has a knack for sharing watches from new brands you may not yet be familiar with, and thanks to the beautiful photography, make them quite enticing along the way. I love the sheer diversity of watches that appear on this feed, and have stumbled across more than a few hidden gems while scrolling. @10thwatch   View this profile on Instagram   X (@10thwatch) • Instagram photos and videos This account belongs to a collector perpetually looking for the perfect 10 watch collection, with the 10th being the best, obviously. This collector has eclec...

Micro-Brand Digest: Inventive Divers, Anti-magnetic Field Watch, & One Charming Chronograph Worn & Wound
Mar 14, 2023

Micro-Brand Digest: Inventive Divers, Anti-magnetic Field Watch, & One Charming Chronograph

Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Gyavius Watch Company NAVI The Sophomore release from a brand called Gyavius represents a serious jump forward, and dabbles in the rarely seen fixed lug bar space. The watch, which is called the NAVI, has just launched its batch 1 order window, and it represents a healthy step in an original direction when it comes to dive watches from micro-brands.  The NAVI is a 45mm dive watch with a fixed lug bar allowing a pass through strap, and allowing for a rather organic looking case shape overall that might wear a bit better than the numbers might suggest. But those numbers are there for a reason, this is a 100ATM diver, tested to 1000M of pressure. Do any of us need that much depth resistance? Absolutely not, but hey, it’s a pretty cool watch and if you’re going to go big, you may as well go all the way.  The matte dial gets a generous helping of pad printed lume with hand applied green lume overtop for a maximum visibility and a pretty cool look. Inside you...

MICRO MONDAYS: Blok Watches make a tough watch specially designed for kids Time+Tide
Mar 13, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: Blok Watches make a tough watch specially designed for kids

This may be the first time that I’m recommending a watch that you will never wear yourself, but the target demographic for Blok Watches don’t tend to do their own shopping. To put it simply, Blok make watches for children. There may not be any shortage of small quartz watches out there to fill stockings, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Blok Watches make a tough watch specially designed for kids appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Art, Desk Display, and Watch Winder All-In-One, A Collab X11 Duffle from 1733 x Huckberry, Talking Taste with Takeharu Sate, & More Worn & Wound
Mar 11, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Art, Desk Display, and Watch Winder All-In-One, A Collab X11 Duffle from 1733 x Huckberry, Talking Taste with Takeharu Sate, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Orbit Winder Co. Art, Watch Winder & Desk Display All In One Via IFLW As far as watch accessories go, straps, travel cases and storage solutions are usually what takes up our entire supplemental horological budget. It’s not a stretch to even throw watch books and custom watch art into the mix. Let’s face it, a watch winder is probably the last thing you’re thinking about purchasing, if at all. Via IFLW Rarely do you see a watch winder that actually looks visually appealing. Typically it’s just a lazily designed compartment that houses a rotating watch holder. You might as well just have a nice looking watch box and when you feel like wearing a particular watch, pick it up, and be the human watch winder. But the folks over at Orbit Winder Co. might have an intriguing winder that could potentially change our minds. Via IFLW Say hello to the Orbit Winder – a cleverly designed piece of moving art that marries the hypnotizing movement of a tourbillon with the functionality of a winder. The Orbit Winder houses a single watch at its center, and once activated, ...