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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition Sep 25, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has unveiled its penultimate limited edition 50th anniversary Monaco, and this one pays homage to the wonderful era that was the noughties. This is the fourth iteration of the limited-run watches, which are celebrating 50 years of the fabled original Heuer Monaco, first released in 1969. We’ve already seen the eclectic mix of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seven Watches to See at Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibition Singapore SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s Grand Exhibition Singapore Sep 25, 2019

Seven Watches to See at Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibition Singapore

Starting this weekend, the theatre inside Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands resort will become home to the epic, 16-day Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition, the biggest and longest such event ever staged by the brand. Open from 28 September to 13 October, the enormous showcase of horological artefacts and prowess will take visitors through the company’s history while delving into its many innovations and milestones. Divided into 10 themed rooms, the exhibition will present a comprehensive array of timepieces spanning centuries, including the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatch, as well as legendary grand complications like the record-setting Calibre 89. Some 400 timepiece will be on display – all detailed in a hardbound catalogue that will be sold to benefit charity – and here are seven highlights of the show that are worth a second look. The first perpetual calendar wristwatch Although the distinction of inventing the first perpetual calendar watch goes to English watchmaker Thomas Mudge, who created it in 1762 – and the Patek Philippe Museum owns one such Mudge creation – it was Patek Philippe that built the first ever perpetual calendar in a wristwatch, back in 1925. It was a one-off creation powered by a movement dating to 1898. Initially developed for a women’s pendant watch, the compact calibre only found a home 27 years later inside the landmark wristwatch. Crucially, it was also an instantaneous perpetual calendar, with calendar i...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 25, 2019

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”

The road was long, but we have arrived: at the start of the year, A. Lange & Söhne kicked off the gradual launch of the 25th anniversary editions of the Lange 1. Made up of 10 different models, unveiled one a month, the series has now come to a conclusion with the final model – the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”. While all other watches in the Lange 1 family have remained in the catalogue since their debut, the Lange 1 Tourbillon was always a limited edition, making the last instalment of the anniversary series the rarest. The model was first unveiled in 2000 in pink gold (250 pieces) and platinum (150 pieces), followed by a honey-gold version (150 pieces) a decade later to mark the 165th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth. Then the watch received the “Handwerkskunst” treatment in 2014 (20 pieces), giving it a platinum case and glossy, black enamel dial, resulting in a very desirable watch. And Lange also quietly produced a handful of one-off examples over the years, including a recent one for retailer The Hour Glass in Tokyo. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst The specially decorated movement of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Interestingly, Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” marks the first time that the watch is produced in white gold. The case remains the standard size, 38.5mm wide and 9.8mm in height, also the same dimensions as the standard Lange 1. And like all prior 25th anniversary editions, it features a solid...

Industry News: Louis Vuitton Unveils Trophy Case for E-Sports World Championship SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Unveils Trophy Case Sep 25, 2019

Industry News: Louis Vuitton Unveils Trophy Case for E-Sports World Championship

The fact that e-sports – essentially competitive computer gaming – is a major phenomenon is hardly new. But now the world’s largest luxury brand is in on the action: Louis Vuitton just announced that it will build the trophy case for the Summoner’s Cup, the huge silver-plated chalice – weighing about 70lbs, or 32kg – that’s given to the winner of the League of Legends World Championship. This marks the first foray of a major luxury house into e-sports, and elevates the League of Legends championship to equal footing with global and historical sporting events like the soccer World Cup. League of Legends is one of the world’s biggest multiplayer online games, with last year’s championship event watched live by almost 100m people. It’s set in a fantasy world, with players controlling a character that, along with teammates, battles the opposing team. The annual championship sees 24 teams from around the world compete for US$1m in prize money – and the giant trophy in a Louis Vuitton trunk. The game joins events like the FIFA World Cup, America’s Cup, Rugby World Cup, and French Open, all of which have had their trophies accompanied by a custom-made Louis Vuitton travel trunk. Like all the other trophy cases, the League of Legends trunk is constructed like a traditional Louis Vuitton trunk, with a wood frame covered in monogram canvas with brass fittings; the only being last year’s FIFA World Cup trunk that was made of polished titanium. Along...

RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing Time+Tide
Patek Philippe watchmaker Sep 24, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing

SJX Watches recently published a fascinating story by Brandon Moore that takes a look at the impact that Instagram and other social media platforms have had on the scrutiny and importance of watch movement finishing. Moore talks to former Patek Philippe watchmaker and founder of Akrivia watches, Rexhep Rexhepi, about the influence of the social … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs Time+Tide
Sep 24, 2019

3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs

There are certain watches out there in the horological ether that are not only lauded by loyal followers but also able to accomplish a hell of a lot for little outlay. Whether it is accuracy, toughness and dependability, innovation, or technicality, these cult-like timepieces are worth far more than the sum of their parts, and … ContinuedThe post 3 affordable timepieces that get the nod from watch snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’ SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Sep 24, 2019

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’

Omega’s carefully paced rollout of thematic watches is building up to next year’s release of No Time to Die, the 25th James Bond film and perhaps Daniel Craig’s last outing as 007. With the upcoming film seven months away, the just-announced Seamaster Diver 300M instead celebrates the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (OHMSS), the 1969 James Bond adventure that was the one and only time Australian actor George Lazenby played Bond. In the usual style of a James Bond edition, the OHMSS edition is a standard model that’s been face-lifted to include numerous details referring to 007. The base watch is the 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M with a steel case. Here the dial is black PVD-coated, black ceramic dial that’s engraved with the familiar gun barrel spiral motif and the base of a bullet at its centre. The hands and indices are 18k yellow gold, with the 12 o’clock marker being featuring the three spheres from the fictional Bond family coat of arms. Two less obvious details lie in the date disc, which has its “7” rendered in the “007” logo, as well as the 10 o’clock marker that has a “secret signature” of “50” visible only in the dark within the Super-Luminova. The edition is limited to 7,007 and pieces, with an 18k yellow gold plate screwed into the side of the case bearing the individual watch number. It’s packaged in a large box that includes a travel pouch emblazoned with the Bond coat of arms, as well as a steel brace...

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Urwerk Sep 24, 2019

In-Depth: Why Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker Selfie is a Dead-Serious Watch

Self-taught Russian clock- and watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin, who has built notably complex timepieces, is ironically best known for the Joker, a relatively simple watch. The Joker is powered by an ETA 2814 base movement with an in-house module of just 61 parts that drives the novel time display: two sub-dials, positioned like eyes in a face, for hours respectively minutes, and a moon phase at six o’clock resembling a smiling mouth – the funny face of time. When first unveiled the inaugural Joker in steel at Baselworld 2017, the 99-piece limited edition sold out quickly. The watch also enjoyed critical acclaim; the subsequent Joker Clown won the Audacity Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve 2018. Konstantin notes he was particularly surprised how eagerly the love-or-hate design was embraced by collectors of high-end watches. So his extended the Joker concept to the top-end of the price spectrum, with the limited edition Joker automaton developed with fellow independent watchmaker Svend Andersen. And then Konstantin recently revealed he was participating in charity auction Only Watch 2019 – alongside peers like Akrivia, F.P. Journe, Urwerk and De Bethune – which piqued my interest, so I reached out to Konstantin to find out more. The Joker automaton by Andersen and Chaykin Inspiration strikes As Luc Pettavino, the founder of Only Watch, was planning the 2019 event, he approached Konstantin to suggest a straightforward variant of the origin...

Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Sep 24, 2019

Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue

As Patek Phillippe’s 16-day Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore counts own to its opening this weekend, the watchmaker has revealed a limited edition, hardbound catalogue detailing the exhibition that will be available only at the event. A must-have for any horological library, the commemorative book includes every timepiece that will be on display at the exhibition, which is the largest to date. The tome encompasses a diversity of clocks, pocket and wristwatches spanning four centuries, from the world’s first wristwatch made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary to some of the most complicated watches ever created – including the landmark Caliber 89 – as well as watches currently in production. The catalogue will also include the limited edition watches, clocks and pocket watches produced especially for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. The Calibre 89 Proceeds from the sale of the catalogue will benefit the National Museum of Singapore, the nation’s oldest museum. Funds raised will go towards boosting the museum’s programmes that preserve the arts and cultural heritage of the city state. Patek Philippe is no stranger to supporting the National Museum, as the catalogue donations follow its support of the redevelopment of the museum in 2015, the year of Singapore’s 50th anniversary since independence, with the creation of a unique Dome Clock that was sold at auction to fund renovation of the museum’s trademark glass rotunda. The Farquhar Coll...

Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch Time+Tide
Bulgari s Gérald Genta 50th Sep 23, 2019

Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch

Editor’s note: I think it’s fairly safe to say that Gérald Charles Genta is the 20th century’s most notable designer of wristwatches. Many know the list of his accomplishments, but the sheer scope and impact of his unique and inspired design language is still sometimes difficult to grasp. Royal Oak, Nautilus, Constellation, Ingenieur, Golden Ellipse … ContinuedThe post Looking back at Bulgari’s Gérald Genta 50th Anniversary Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 seriously underrated watches released in 2019 Time+Tide
Sep 23, 2019

3 seriously underrated watches released in 2019

A great watch should always get the recognition it deserves; however, sometimes that just simply isn’t the case. Whether it’s down to hyped timepieces being unveiled at the same time, the watchmaker in question not being particularly revered, or how the timepiece in question derives its source of power … there are myriad reasons why … ContinuedThe post 3 seriously underrated watches released in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce Sep 23, 2019

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 23, 2019

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”

A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 25th year since it first unveiled its modern line-up of wristwatches – led by the iconic Lange 1 – in 1994 with a 10-piece set of special Lange 1 models. The Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” is the third watch of the set, which has been progressively unveiled each month, with the last (presumably a Lange 1 Tourbillon) slated to be announced in October. The Little Lange 1 was first conceived in 1998 as a scaled down version of the Lange 1, with the case shrunk to 36mm. But it was originally a men’s watch, catered to markers like Japan and Singapore that wanted a smaller size. So the earlier versions had plain dials, essentially the same dials as found on the full-size Lange 1, but the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a watch for ladies, so the current versions are only offered with ornate guilloche dials in purple or brown, with the option of a diamond-set bezel. But the Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” returns to the original concept of the model, with all frills removed and once again suitable for men. The standard Little Lange 1 with a brown guilloche dial Modern blue The “25th Anniversary” model of the Little Lange 1 pays tribute to the original design with a standard silver dial. In fact, the dial is identical to first generation Little Lange 1 dials, with the exception of the colours and printed indices; the originals had applied markers. As a recurring theme found in the other commemorative pi...

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: James May and the Quartz Watch Time+Tide
Sep 22, 2019

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: James May and the Quartz Watch

James May, doyen of automotive journalism, presenter of Amazon’s The Grand Tour and former presenter of BBC’s Top Gear, knows a great many things about the mechanical innards of an automobile. It turns out that Mr May is also rather savvy when it comes to understanding the complexity of the technology that almost single-handedly and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: James May and the Quartz Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Sep 22, 2019

4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar

The very utterance of the words “must have” when talking about the ideal watch collection will almost always lead to, at the very least, enthusiastic speculation and, more often than not, heated debate. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is forever being bandied about as THE watch to have in any discerning collection, and the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Detailed Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things Quill & Pad
Sep 22, 2019

Detailed Primer On Gemstones And Their Appreciation: An Introduction To The Finer Things

Recently Joshua Muchow has become somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he's learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB It seems Sep 21, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB

It seems like every other week there’s a new Casio being unleashed upon the wristwatch-wearing world. And this week is no different, as the Japanese marque has just released this - the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB. That’s right, there’s now another 5000-series vying for the attention of all you digital devotees out there, and this one’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000TB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen Time+Tide
Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen Sep 21, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen

Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there’s only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Sep 21, 2019

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen

As complications go, the RM 50 is the ultimate Richard Mille, combining a tourbillon and split-seconds chronograph. Descended from the RM008 of 2003, one of the brand’s foundational models, the top of the line complication now has now been dressed up in new livery for Finnish Formula 1 driver Kimi Räikkönen, who drives for the Alfa Romeo Racing Team. Launched at the start of the 2019 Singapore Grand Prix, the RM 50-04 Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph Kimi Räikkönen is large, lightweight, and complex, and dressed in a red, white and black colour combination that’s the same as the livery on the Alfa Romeo C38 Formula 1 car. Kimi Räikkönen Though it’s a mass of details and colours, the dial is actually easily to decipher. The two chronograph sub-dials are the six and nine o’clock. The fan-shaped indicator at 11 o’clock is the power reserve, and its mirror image to the right is the torque indicator. This indicates the level of wind in the mainspring, with the ideal being between 53Nmm and 65Nmm; “Nmm” is short for Newton millimetre. And at three o’clock is the power reserve display. Made of various lightweight carbon composites, the watch case is generously sized, like other top of the line Richard Mille complications – 44.5mm in diameter and 16.1mm high. The front and back plates are white Quartz TPT, while the middle is Carbon TPT. Both composites are made by North Thin Ply Technology (NTPT), a Swiss lightweight composite specialist that’s...

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches Time+Tide
Zenith takes Sep 20, 2019

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches

It isn’t hard to imagine that Zenith is probably feeling pretty darn confident about being given more than one award at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Not least for the fact that five of the Swiss marque’s timepieces have been given the nod by the prestigious event’s judges across no fewer than five … ContinuedThe post Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andrew talks about how Time+Tide started, and explains why he copped the Casio G-Shock Full Metal Black Aged IP Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock Full Metal Black Sep 20, 2019

Andrew talks about how Time+Tide started, and explains why he copped the Casio G-Shock Full Metal Black Aged IP

It’s the least surprising twist in a conversation when a watch collector tells you they’re into G-Shock. When I started writing about watches, I remember a fellow Australian journalist – Bani McSpedden – flicking through pictures on his phone of all his G-Shocks arranged in a rainbow stack. I found it curious then, but not … ContinuedThe post Andrew talks about how Time+Tide started, and explains why he copped the Casio G-Shock Full Metal Black Aged IP appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.