Revolution
The Watch Face: Gilt Dials
Delve into the history of dial design and the elements that make up some of the most famous watch faces of our time. In this part: gilt dials.
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Revolution
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG
First uncovered in the tomb of a 17th century Genevan clockmaker, the words which are now passed into lore: “Every time someone says the GPHG is the Oscars of the watch world, a bunny dies.” So as to avoid the death of any more happy hoppers, I’ll describe the GPHG as the biggest prize in … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The problem with the GPHG appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph
Editor’s note: This year we’ve been a little guilty of gushing all over the brand spanking new Octo Finissimo Chronograph, but it’s worth remembering that this shiny new star isn’t the only Octo Chrono in the mix. Meet the definitely not thin Bulgari Octo Chronograph … One of the marks of a strong watch design … ContinuedThe post The big bad Bulgari Octo Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers
Editor’s note: The darling of the independent watch space, MB&F; show no signs of slowing their release of weird and wonderful watches. Timepieces that often elicit a confused reception at first glance, MB&F; clocks and watches become more delightful the longer you look at them, as you realise the playfulness at the heart of their … ContinuedThe post 11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Solid value, awesome lume - the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II
Editor’s note: These days, Ball is a bit of a niche brand, but even though they’re not front of mind, they’re in no danger of fading away, thanks to their exceptional lume. Cam has a look at one of their modern divers, the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II. Read on … The watch industry … ContinuedThe post Solid value, awesome lume – the Ball Engineer Master II Skindiver II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue
Vacheron Constantin’s Fiftysix collection - first released in 2018 - is a refreshingly upbeat take on mid-century design, full of personality and warmth. And this new Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue keeps the tempo up. The case looks simple at first glance, but quickly gathers sophistication the more you study it. I … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar in petrol blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic
Editor’s note: Earlier this week we had a look at a few TAG Heuer Tourbillons, including the impressive new Nanograph - with its fancy new carbon escapement and yellow highlights. But we’ve also still got the hots for one of the original models, this all-black beauty clad in ultra-tough ceramic. Dark, meet handsome. Owning a … ContinuedThe post A closer look at TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 02 Tourbillon in black ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why does the Breitling Triathlon Squad exist?
Watch companies are pretty happy to jump on board as sponsors of all number of sporting teams, including Formula 1, boxing or tennis, for the obvious reasons that they have massive viewerships and highly engaged fans. One sport that definitely isn’t structured as a spectator-friendly sport is triathlon, begging the question as to why the … ContinuedThe post Why does the Breitling Triathlon Squad exist? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The ultimate watch glossary - the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest
In the latest instalment of our glossary series (you can see all our educational style content here), we tackle one of the most overlooked (and most important) elements of a watch. The bit that attached it to your wrist – buckles and clasps in all their forms … The tang buckle, also known as the … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel
Finally, the faithful re-issue of a legendary dive chronograph we were waiting for.
Deployant
Review: Rado Tradition Golden Horse Limited Edition
We take a look at remake of one of Rado's classic pieces of the yesteryear - the Rado Tradition Golden Horse Limited Edition.
Time+Tide
All aboard the Omega Railmaster
Editor’s note: A little while ago, someone on a FB watch group I’m part of asked what watch they should buy (out of three versatile, black-dialled tool watches), with one option being the Omega Railmaster. I didn’t have to think about my answer. It was the Railmaster. Hands down. Read on for my reasons why … ContinuedThe post All aboard the Omega Railmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 - the Spitfire collection
Following on from last week’s look at the Top Gun collection, Andrew sets his sights on the heritage-inspired Spitfire collection. This year saw the Spitfire step up its status from an occasional silver-dialled offering to a fully formed collection in its own right. Gone are the silver dials of the past, replaced with either handsome … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 2 – the Spitfire collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne
TAG Heuer is a brand that has always sat fondly in the hearts of Australians, with shared values of an active lifestyle spent outdoors. This week we were lucky enough to celebrate the launch of TAG Heuer’s latest novelties, including the Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph and the exciting Autavia Isograph. Both releases are … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Tourbillon time with TAG Heuer in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel Limited Edition
At Baselworld 2019, Doxa delivered a campaign of shock and awe with the release of a solid gold SUB 200 T.Graph that left Felix in the firm belief that the world was a better place for its existence. Today they have announced another SUB 200 T.Graph limited edition, this time in stainless steel, making it … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: DOXA SUB 200 T.Graph Stainless Steel Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: 21st century tech meets Japanese swordsmithing tradition in the Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’
At first glance, the pairing of a GPS-enabled, solar-powered watch, with a direct lineage to an 800-year-old family tradition in one of Japan’s most culturally important crafts might seem odd, but that’s precisely what we’re looking at with this high-end Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’. Before we get to the sword side of things, let’s have a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: 21st century tech meets Japanese swordsmithing tradition in the Casio MRG-G2000GA ‘Gassan’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex Crazy Hours Pastels Asia Exclusive
Franck Muller extends the Crazy Hours collection with a set of 4 new watches in a pastel colour scheme to be available exclusively for the Asia market.
Revolution
Introducing the Chopard Happy Sport The Hour Glass 40th Anniversary Special Edition
The Hour Glass’ 40th anniversary watch announcements continue today courtesy of Geneva based jeweler and watchmaker, Chopard.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
When Zenith unveiled the El Primero Defy 21 two years ago, it was a breakthrough for the brand, offering a 1/100th of a second chronograph with twin regulators for an affordable US$10,000 or so. This year the brand has kicked things up a notch with the El Primero Defy Double tourbillon, which essentially replaces the regular escapements with two tourbillons – one conventional and the other ultra-fast. The high-frequency evolution The new double tourbillon chronograph is a logical evolution of the classic El Primero – albeit accomplished with some help from TAG Heuer – that remained unchanged for decades. Unveiled 50 years ago, the El Primero was the first integrated automatic chronograph, and crucially, the first serially-produced, high-frequency chronograph running at 36,000 beats per hour (bph), allowing it to measure time down to the nearest tenth of a second. It would take 48 years for it to evolve into its first major iteration, the El Primero Defy 21 of 2017, which took the high-precision chronograph to its extreme with a monstrously high frequency of 50Hz, capable of measuring time down to a hundredth of a second. The Defy El Primero 21 launched in 2017 – an exotic chronograph for a basic price While it is true that a higher frequency regulator results in a higher resolution chronograph, it comes at a cost. An ultra-high frequency escapement requires tremendous energy, and the friction generated by the rapid motion of its components in turn mean more f...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Do expensive watches make you risky with money?
The upper echelons of the investment banking world are inhabited by people who are paid large sums of money to take risks. Some working within the hallowed halls of serious finance prefer lower-risk investments, and others enjoy the thrill of having a larger appetite for risky business. If you want to know how safe your … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Do expensive watches make you risky with money? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: Architect Richard Rogers On Humanistic Design And The Accutron Spaceview
One of the world's most eminent architects talks about a watch he's worn for 44 years – and it's an Accutron.
Time+Tide
In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection
To celebrate the centennial anniversary of the Bauhaus design movement, Swatch have released the Bau Swatch Collection of 25 new watches inspired by the pre-WWII German school of design. The Bauhaus design philosophy has had significant impact on a number of watch designs over the years, including from Patek Philippe, Nomos and Stowa. Now Swatch … ContinuedThe post In the Haus with the new Bau Swatch Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 126710BLNR Review
Today we’re taking an in-depth look at the 2019 Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 126710BLNR. Released earlier this year at Baselworld as part of the brand’s 2019 collection, the ‘new’ BLNR featured several updates and replaced the previous reference 116710BLNR, iconically known as ‘the Batman’. This new reference was quickly nicknamed the ‘Batgirl’, a term I don’t particularly like. Names aside, the reference 126710 was an instant hit leveraging its predecessor’s insatiable demand. The result of this incredible demand is very long waitlists – so if you ever get ‘the call’ – I suggest you answer, you won’t regret it! In case you thought Batman was just a DC character, this, Batman has been a highly desirable watch since the reference 116710BLNR was released way back in 2013. But let’s rewind a little further. The evolution of Rolexes iconic GMT-Master II collection has been interesting and potentially underappreciated. In 2005, Rolex debuted their Cerachrom (often referred to as Ceramic), on the Yellow Gold GMT-Master II (black dial, black bezel). Then, in 2007, Rolex released the Steel GMT-Master II reference 116710LN (the ‘Noir’), which featured an all-black cerachrom bezel. The Noir was arguably (or at least by Rolex standards) underrated until it’s discontinuation earlier this year. So, when the steel bi-coloured Batman (reference 116710BLNR) was released in 2013 – it caused a splash of excitement, which is yet to settle. One might ...
SJX Watches
Humism Introduces the Philosophies and Helios
After a successful launch of its debut collection in 2018, Singapore-based microbrand Humism has just debuted its next line-up, the Philosophies (II) and Helios collection, once again on the crowdfunding platform Kickstarter. The watches are a sure thing: at the time of writing, the watches have been fully funded, with the amount raised more than eights times its fundraising goal. As with its first range of watches, the latest timepieces from Humism feature the same lyrical time display, with both the hours, minutes, and seconds indicated by overlapping wheels that create an unfolding pattern as the time passes. Black and yellow The limited edition Helios takes two watches from last year’s line-up – the Dasein and the Eudaimonia – and dresses them in black and yellow. According to Humism, the largest number of backers last year chose this colour combination, out of nearly 50 choices. While the livery has changed, the time-telling mechanics stay the same. At the very top, the seconds wheel is in constant movement, providing the primary animation of the dial. Helios Dasein Helios Eudaimonia The hours and minutes are indicated by spheres on the edge of the dial, each attached to another wheel. The quicker rotation of the seconds wheel, superimposed on the slower minutes creates an optical illusion reminiscent of a kaleidoscope. Both have steel cases coated in black diamond-like carbon (DLC). The Helios Dasein is limited to 290 pieces, while the Helios E...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time?
If you’ve been reading what I’ve been reading over the last couple of weeks, you’ll have noticed I’m particularly interested in how the primary and secondary watch markets interact with each other, and what that looks like in specific contexts like an auction room. All that leads to is a question: does the collectible watch … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Does the collectible watch change over time? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Observatory Chronometers that Timed the Tour de France
Watches once owned by prominent personalities are captivating. Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona, the Rolex “Bao Dai”, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster Moonwatch, the Henry Graves Supercomplication, and even J. Pierpont Morgan’s lost pocket watch, are amongst most sought after timepieces in the world. In fact, a good number of the most expensive watches ever sold at auction have notable provenance, which turns a mere watch into a historical artefact. Probably the most important timekeepers in cycling, these are a pair of Longines split-seconds stop watches – refs. 7411 and 8350 respectively – that were used by Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation, to time the Tour de France in the fading glory days of mechanical sports timing, just before quartz stopwatches took over. In fact, the pair of stopwatches are not merely chronographs, but also observatory certified chronometers. Watchmaking once represented the cutting edge research of mechanical engineering. Observatory time trials at Neuchatel, Geneva or Kew were rigorous scientific affairs, with movements Peseux 260 and Zenith 135 competing to be the most accurate movement in the world. But such movements were three-hand, time-only. Aside from tourbillon movements, very few complicated calibres were submitted to timing contests. Mr Pitallier’s pair of Longines were both certified by the Neuchatel observatory. The swan song of competitive timekeeping In modern day watch collectin...
Time+Tide
Why is Longines’ connection to horse racing so strong?
Editor’s note: In the run-up to the horse racing season in Australia, we thought we’d have a look at a brand with a long history in the world of horse racing. Andrew had the opportunity to sit down with the then-VP of Longines Juan-Carlos Capelli to get to the bottom of Longines’ connection to horse … ContinuedThe post Why is Longines’ connection to horse racing so strong? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Un-GPHG 2019 - the watches we wish would win
Every year the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) provides a point of interest for the watch community. Long after the hype of SIHH and Baselworld has died down, it’s a chance to catch our breath, look back at the year that was, and assess how many good watches were made in the preceding 12 … ContinuedThe post Un-GPHG 2019 – the watches we wish would win appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe?
Patek Philippe are not known for hi-tech carbon composite case materials, skeleton dials, or really any enthusiastic contemporary flair. What they are known for is being the priest of the Temple of Classicism, considered and purposeful in any direction of development, refusing to bend to ephemeral market tastes. The clearest way this can be seen … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is this the perfect Patek Philippe? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Finding satisfaction at the Melbourne Rolex Service Centre
Editor’s note: A couple of years ago, life got a lot easier for the Melbourne Rolex collector. Rolex Australia blessed the coffee-obsessed city with a shiny new service centre, a move that made the already appealing prospect of buying a Rolex even more appealing, with the knowledge that a repair would be as pain-free as … ContinuedThe post Finding satisfaction at the Melbourne Rolex Service Centre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.