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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts Fratello
Aug 13, 2025

US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts

I am sure that most of you have read about Switzerland being hit with the harshest tariffs of all European countries last week. A whopping 39% tariff on goods imported to the US from the Alpine country came into effect on August 7th. The watch world is shaking as a result. Today, I would like […] Visit US Import Tariffs On Swiss Watches-How They Affect Watch Brands And Enthusiasts to read the full article.

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II SJX Watches
Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring Lastly Aug 8, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part II

Part I of our story on the evolution of hairspring materials covered temperature compensation along with the development of the first specialised balance spring alloy, Elinvar. The story brought us to the 1920s, when scientist and horologist Charles-Edouard Guillaume (1861-1938) finished his work on nickel-iron alloys and watchmakers begun embracing Elinvar springs paired with mono-metallic balances. In this second part we turn to newer hairspring alloys, like the now-ubiquitous Nivarox. Then we look at today’s landscape and the future, touching on research done by the Swatch Group with alternative, niobium-based alloys and also the specialised but obscure Seiko SPRON 610 hairspring. Lastly we discuss silicon springs, which are growing more prevalent across a range of timepieces. Elinvar’s weaknesses Elinvar was by far the greatest breakthrough in self-compensating alloy hairsprings at the time. Guillaume considered Elinvar good enough and not needing further improvement - unsurprisingly since he was its inventor - but other watchmakers and engineers continued to experiment with iron-nickel compounds because Elinvar’s inherent properties made it a good, but imperfect, material. Even though the alloy behaved predictably with temperature changes, its physical properties were not ideal to begin with. Elinvar was a soft metal, which posed its own suite of problems for spring applications. The importance of softness in terms of hairspring performance is not related ...

Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them) Fratello
Omega Speedmasters Aug 5, 2025

Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them)

I bought my first Omega Speedmaster Professional in 1999. This is also when my Speedy collecting officially began. During those 25 years of buying (and selling) Speedmaster watches, I made my fair share of mistakes. This was mainly because, back then, there wasn’t as much information available as there is today. But I also made […] Visit Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them) to read the full article.

My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close Fratello
Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet Aug 5, 2025

My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close

The mighty Rolex Datejust turns 80 this year. That makes it one of the longest continually produced watches out there, which is no small feat. At Fratello, we intend to celebrate with a series of articles on the model, and today it’s my turn to choose my all-time favorite. That’s not an easy task, though. […] Visit My Favorite Rolex Datejust Doesn’t Exist Yet - But These References Come Quite Close to read the full article.

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698 Fratello
Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models Aug 4, 2025

Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698

Panerai is no stranger to working with the Italian Navy. The two have joined forces on watches, technical tools, and other products for over a century. As watch enthusiasts, we’ve become accustomed to these collaborative projects featuring the bold Marina Militare typography on the dial. Today, the partnership expands and is dedicated to the Aviazione […] Visit Introducing: New Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Models PAM01697 And PAM01698 to read the full article.

Fratello EDC: Nacho Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Uniqlo, Fujifilm, Alpaka, And More Fratello
Aug 1, 2025

Fratello EDC: Nacho Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Uniqlo, Fujifilm, Alpaka, And More

Our watches are not the only things we carry with us every day. Sure, they’re the primary focus of what we do here at Fratello, but sometimes it’s nice to shift that focus onto other elements of our everyday carry (or EDC). Today, I’ll contribute to the Fratello EDC series by walking you through a […] Visit Fratello EDC: Nacho Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Uniqlo, Fujifilm, Alpaka, And More to read the full article.

Our Favorite Watches Worn in Movies Worn & Wound
Jul 30, 2025

Our Favorite Watches Worn in Movies

Obviously, we love watches here at Worn & Wound. But many members of our team also have a shared passion for movies, and we’ve found that there’s a lot of crossover between these two worlds. “Watch spotting” in movies is a pastime many of us hold dear and have become quite proficient at. Since we’re at the height of the summer blockbuster season, we thought now would be a good time to check in with the team and ask them identify their favorite watches featured in movies.  This is an extremely broad challenge, and the choices from our staff reflect the many ways watches work themselves into the art of filmmaking. Some choices are truly iconic and feature watches as actual plot points, while some are completely obscure and will likely be news to many readers, even the most accomplished cinephiles.  We’d love to know your favorite watches found in movies (or TV shows) so let us know in the comments below.  Zach Weiss  The opening sequence of Apocalypse Now is a hallucinogenic montage of haunting imagery layered over The Doors’ “The End,” setting the tone for one of the most brilliant yet brutal films ever made. There is no easing into the story; the scene that immediately follows features the protagonist of the film, Captain Willard, portrayed by Martin Sheen, having a mental breakdown in a hotel room in Saigon. As a way to introduce a character, it’s deeply unsettling. Drunk, manic, and eventually stripped naked, he loses his grip on reality to such a...

Up Close: Vanguart Orb Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi APRP Jul 30, 2025

Up Close: Vanguart Orb Tourbillon

Vanguart is surprisingly under the radar, despite having been eight years old. The brand was founded in 2017 by a quartet that includes alumni of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi (APRP), and last year introduced its most notable product yet, the Orb. The watch arguably goes against the grain of independent watchmaking today. Instead of being traditional, simple, and brightly finished, it is appears intricately mechanical and distinctly modern in style. A flying tourbillon wristwatch with an inventive, thoughtful technical approach, the Orb is powered by a layered, skeleton movement with a novel winding-function selector that allows for switching between manual and automatic winding. And it’s been trending recently after having been spotted on the wrist of singer Ed Sheeran during a concert in Germany. Initial thoughts I first encountered Vanguart when it launched the Black Hole Tourbillon in 2021. The brand caught my interest because it was set up by an all-star team that included two technical experts from APRP. Though the Black Hole was technically impressive, the oversized, space-ship shape felt overdone and way too much on the wrist (and also twice as expensive). The Orb, on the other hand, is (almost) just right. When I first saw the Orb, I thought it might be yet another basic tourbillon movement in fancy dress but priced exorbitantly. I was wrong. The movement is impressive in many respects. The Black Hole Tourbillon. Image – Vanguart The Orb is both minimalist and...

40 Best Chronograph Watches (2026) Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 28, 2025

40 Best Chronograph Watches (2026)

Watchmaking, at its core, has always been about functionality. By wearing a timekeeper, not only did you get an instant update on at what point in the day you are in, but dependent on complication, you also had the opportunity to see at what point the moon was at in its cycle, what year you are in and even the opportunity to time various events (the big race or dinner). Since their invention more than 200 years ago, chronographs have established themselves the most versatile additions to the field of timekeeping. The very first was conceived as an aid to astronomical observations; over the years, chronographs have proven visually appealing as well as useful in day to day life. While nobody is entirely sure when the first chronograph was conceived, we do often point to Mr Nicolas Rieussec’s creation of 1821, which saw a spot of ink dropped onto a rotating disc of paper and dropped another when the timed event came to an end. Since then, it has become a complication we have seen from almost every brand out there. As we begin a new year, we felt the time was right to spotlight some of the best chronographs that are on the market in 2026. Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC813 Price: $695, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V192 The original Seiko Speedtimer, released in 1969, was among the world’s first self-winding chronograph watches, equipped with the legendary Calib...

Rolex Submariner Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jul 26, 2025

Rolex Submariner Review

The Rolex Submariner enjoys a nearly impeccable resume these days, and is largely seen as the modern dive watch archetype, having first set the template in 1954. The Submariner has seen a steady evolution during its production span, and remains essentially the same today as it was in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It’s a simple watch to understand and enjoy, and while modern Rolex aren’t quite the same function-forward tools they once were, the Submariner remains a symbol of that connection. It’s also just as capable as ever. There have been many transitional references throughout the Submariner’s life, but there is one reference in particular that has drawn the ire of the enthusiast community, and that is the reference 114060 produced between 2012 and 2020. Today, I’ll be taking a look at why that is, and offering a few words in defense of this outlier.  Rolex Submariner 114060 Case and Wearability The Submariner has been a ~40mm watch since the late ‘50s, and while the reference 124060 officially changed that, moving to a 41mm diameter, it was the 114060 before it that was the first to really push the envelope of that label. While the shiny new ceramic bezel got most of the attention when this generation of the Submariner was introduced, it was the new so-called "muscle case" that would raise eyebrows. Rolex doesn’t generally succumb to trends, but it’s worth noting that this period was marked by increasing case sizes, and as a result, the 114060 (and its more c...

A. Lange & Söhne Updates a Grail Watch Worn & Wound
Casio nally find myself looking Jul 25, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Updates a Grail Watch

I occasionally find myself looking for a good excuse to write about some of my favorite watches, as doing so with some context feels too self-satisfying. This excuse can be a guide, a group editorial, or, as in the case today, a marginally new version of an existing watch that I adore, but haven’t had the chance to divulge my feelings on adequately. That watch is the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk, as today, Lange has announced the Zeitwerk Date in rose gold. While certainly exciting for people who said, “If only this watch came in rose gold” as a topic for a whole article, a new case metal is a bit lacking. Conveniently, I have a lot to say about the Zeitwerk in general. There was a time not that long ago when asked what my “grail watch” was, my default answer was the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk. Why? Few watches mix the classic and the contemporary quite so well. They’re unique, handsome, and ooze tasteful luxury. They aren’t blingy or ostentatious. Additionally, nearly any watch enthusiast appreciates them, so it was an answer that didn’t require much explanation. However, as my knowledge of watches has grown, another aspect has emerged that I find fascinating: the complexity it takes to create something that seems so simple. If jump hours are a rare complication, jump minutes are unicorns. The only other I’m aware of is the IWC Tribute to Pallweber. Although the idea seems simple enough, making a disk jump once a minute, two disks every ten, and three disk...

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jul 24, 2025

Seiko Turtle SRPE93 Review

The Seiko Prospex SRPE93, the most recent version of the legendary Seiko Turtle dive watch, hit the market relatively recently, in 2021, but its lineage can be traced all the way back to the 1970s. What makes this defiantly retro-looking tool watch such a favorite of enthusiasts even today? There’s a lot more to it than the very accessible price point, as we’ll explore here in this in-depth examination - or, a look under the shell, if you will -  of the SRPE93 “Turtle.” Seiko, the world’s oldest and most established Japanese watchmaking brand, was one of the pioneers of the dive-watch genre and it has long stood apart from its Swiss contemporaries in this field (i.e. Rolex, Blancpain, and others) for its use of bold and unconventional designs. One of its most off-the-wall and yet most enduringly popular designs is the original "Turtle” - aka, Ref. 6306 and 6309 - which made its debut in 1976. The former reference was made exclusively for the Japanese market (and thus, vintage examples are much rarer and more valuable), and the latter was sold to international customers. The reptilian nickname derived from the watches’ cushion-shaped cases with softly rounded lugs, which brought to mind the silhouette of a turtle when viewed from above. The reference numbers for the watches essentially matched those of their automatic movements - Caliber 6306A, which included hacking seconds and Caliber 6309A, which did not.  The Turtle’s unusual look and rugged ...