Hodinkee
Introducing: The 37mm Tudor Black Bay 54
You can get a steel bracelet or a rubber strap. And there's no date.
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Hodinkee
You can get a steel bracelet or a rubber strap. And there's no date.
Worn & Wound
Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference. At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...
Time+Tide
The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS honours the Alps further with a Monte Rosa inspired dial. The calibre L.U.C 96.40-L is only 3.3mm thick, with the watch totalling 8mm. It’s also the second of Chopard’s movements to be granted a Geneva Seal, the first being the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. If you want to see … ContinuedThe post The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS is an ultra-thin, luxe take on a sporty proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A prototype surfaced years ago, and now the watch is a reality…on a bracelet.
Hodinkee
Emojis, inspirational words and stone dials!
Hodinkee
A thinner, curvier, and slightly more refined Tank Américaine keeps a classic fresh.
Hodinkee
The green-bezel Submariner was never an official Kermit. This one is. And it's so much fun.
Worn & Wound
The Ingenieur pivots back to its Gerald Genta design era this year with the introduction of a new collection that references the Ingenieur SL, reference 1832 from 1976. This is a move we (and likely, many of you) have anticipated since asking IWC CEO Chris Grainger about it back in 2021 on the Worn & Wound podcast (listen to that episode right here). The new Ingenieur collection welcomes three steel references that feature unique textured dials in silver, black, and aqua, and a full titanium reference with a gray dial. Each feature the new integrated bracelet design made famous by Genta in the ‘70s that we last saw in 2013 with the Ingenieur reference 3239. The new Inge takes a slightly softer approach and places an emphasis on ergonomics, and during our time with the watch in London last month, found it to be exactly that. This is the new Ingenieur Automatic 40 and yes, it still has a soft-iron inner case. The Ingenieur has a rather interesting history that reaches back to 1955 with the reference 666, where it embraced a classic round shape and simple dial befitting of the era. It was launched around the same time as the Rolex Milgauss, and filled a similar role, making use of a soft-iron inner case to protect the movement from magnetic influence (up to 80,000 Amperes per meter). The name has roots in Old French and Medieval Latin, according to IWC, evolving from “ingeniator” or “one who makes or uses an engine”. The word Inegnieur evokes a similar vibe, and b...
Hodinkee
A 39mm Rolex dress watch called 1908 just dropped in white and yellow gold. It's the first official member of the new Perpetual collection.
Hodinkee
Double the dials, double the fun. And if those two faces don't keep your head spinning, watch out for that tourbillon.
Hodinkee
Flip the new ultra-slim Small Seconds Reverso and you'll find 4 different colored dials.
Hodinkee
And yes, that's steel.
Hodinkee
The retrograde date has been a core part of the Vacheron lineup, but rarely has the brand done a version as sporty as this (and it's not the only new retrograde).
Deployant
The Hermes H08 line is extended with new cases/colours and a brand new monopusher Chronograph, and gemset moonphase watch.
Time+Tide
After much anticipation, Rolex releases the first production Yacht-Master in RLX titanium The 42mm case is totally brushed, save for some wide, polished lug chamfers Powered by the 3235 calibre, the Yacht-Master RLX Titanium has a power reserve of 70 hours First spotted on the wrist of Sir Ben Ainslie, Rolex has finally released the … ContinuedThe post The long-awaited Rolex Yacht-Master in RLX Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Tudor Black Bay 54 takes its inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. Its 37mm case offers a great gender netural option for accurate vintage vibes. The steel bracelet is fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp. For thousands of watch collectors, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 was a phenomenal release that turned even … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy fills the hole of the discontinued red Heritage Black Bay. It features modern Tudor features such as an in-house movement with a 70 hour power reserve. You can choose between their riveted bracelet, a Jubilee-style bracelet, or a rubber strap, all with the T-fit clasp system. Fears have … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon has received a sequel, now with a Milano blue dial. The platinum case leans into a sense of stealth wealth, weighing 34% more than 18k gold. A 100m water resistance rating makes this a true platinum sports watch. Parmigiani Fleurier’s launch of the Tonda PF range in 2021 … ContinuedThe post The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is the epitome of sporty luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech marks a return for the 40mm Radiomir case. The use of Goldtech and a white dial offers a modern and sophisticated take on the vintage-inspired watch. It’s also the thinnest watch in Panerai’s current lineup, at a cuff-friendly 10.15mm. This seems to be the year of the Radiomir for Panerai, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Goldtech returns with a modern take on vintage style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Four new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 watches – three in steel one in titanium Better reflects the design codes of the original 1976 Gerald Genta Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 design Uses latest IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre with a power reserve of 120 hours We have long remained in throws of the integrated steel sports craze. But, while … ContinuedThe post The IWC Ingenieur gets a modern makeover that better honors its past with new Automatic 40 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Re-imagining a use case for their Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante calibre, Parmigiani Fleurier present the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante In classic Parmigiani style, it’s a minimal take on an elapsed time complication, negating the need for a timing bezel Powered by a modified GMT Rattrapante calibre dubbed the PF052 It’s safe to say that Parmigiani … ContinuedThe post Parmigiani Fleurier debuts a world-first with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Perhaps the most distinctive of all Radiomir designs, the “California” was nonetheless absent from Panerai’s catalogue for some time. Now it makes a comeback as the Radiomir California PAM01349. Essentially a cooler (and more expensive) version of the new Radiomir “Otto Giorni”, the PAM01349 preserves the signature features of the design, including the dial and blue hands, but works in a few concessions to modern tastes, including a smoked green finish for the dial as a scaled-down, 45 mm case. Initial thoughts The California has long been my favourite Radiomir so I am glad it is making a comeback. While it looks slightly vintage, the PAM01349 is clearly not a vintage reissue, which is a good thing. The combination of a green dial and aged case is an appealing one. However, the PAM01349 costs about 20% more than the Radiomir models with the same movement, a premium that isn’t grounded in any tangible features and thus hard to justify. Romans and Arabics The dial is classic “California” with Roman numerals on its top half and Arabic numbers on the lower half. Originally designed for legibility so each half of the dial is easily distinguishable from the other, the California dial was synonymous with the Radiomir. The PAM01349 preserves the original design, but the texture and colour are contemporary. Like most other recent releases, the dial has a grained surface and smoked finish, both in keeping with current tastes. The dial treatment gives the watch a vin...
Hodinkee
Cartier's most daring Santos-Dumont yet features a new in-house movement (oh, and lacquer is back too).
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin introduces a brand new 35mm size for the Overseas collection Sporting the signature blue dial or a soft pink, the Overseas 35mm is available with steel or gemset bezels The reduction in size comes from numerous requests by Vacheron Constantin’s customers The Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection is one full of variety. There’s the … ContinuedThe post New sizes for the familiar Vacheron Constantin Overseas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Red, blue, and yellow accents make for a more casual Calatrava.
SJX Watches
For Vacheron Constantin, 2023 is the year of the retrograde date. The brand kicks off the year with three references featuring this unusual complication, led by the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface. Vacheron Constantin has a rich history in retrograde displays that dates back almost 100 years, and the Traditionnelle Tourbillon takes things up a notch with a hand-engraved, open-worked dial. Initial thoughts The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon is a tidy little package that tweaks an existing movement to create a surprisingly different watch thanks to an open-worked dial that uses the retrograde mechanism as a design element. The result is a watch that is recognisable as a Traditionnelle Tourbillon – it has many of the hallmarks of the line – but one that instantly stands apart. The new look also compliments the largish case well. Size-wise the new tourbillon is almost identical to the standard Traditionnelle Tourbillon with a conventional dial. But while the standard model feels a little large at 41 mm due to its classical styling, the new model feels more natural in its size thanks to its contemporary aesthetics. In terms of its value proposition, the estimated price of €200,000 is consistent with its stature, if a bit on the high side. It’s slightly more than the brand’s own Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton, a watch that features the same base movement dressed in more elaborate finishing. Of course, it’s not an apples-to-apples comparison since th...
SJX Watches
After years in the doldrums – and several unsuccessful reboots – the Ingenieur has been given a much-needed refresh inside and out. The IWC Ingenieur 40 emulates many of the best characteristics of the original Ingenieur SL from 1976 that was famously designed by Gérald Genta, but adds a proprietary automatic movement into the mix. Initial Thoughts While there was nothing wrong with the outgoing Ingenieur ref. IW3570, it was uninspired and lacked the charisma found in the original 1976 designs. Unsurprisingly, it failed to resonate with buyers who increasingly favoured sports watches with integrated bracelets. The ref. IW328903 features an aqua dial and a bracelet with polished center links The resulting surge in demand for integrated-bracelet sports watches was a trend that IWC missed out on since the last Ingenieur with an integrated bracelet was the ref. IW3239 discontinued in 2017. With everyone else launching an integrated-bracelet sports watch, it seemed inevitable that IWC would eventually refresh the Ingenieur and bring back the original design. In this context, the launch of the Ingenieur 40 is welcome, even if it does feel slightly anti-climactic. The Ingenieur ref. IW328902 in steel with a silver-plated dial The new Ingenieur is essentially a blend of the 1976 original and the more recent integrated-bracelet models. The design appears thoughtful. For example, the bezel with five notches from the original returns, but with a twist (no pun intended). Whi...
Time+Tide
The new Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski is paired with a gloss black dial for more refined looks. The 41mm case is made from micro-blasted titanium. Richard Orlinski’s polygonal style makes the watch feel quite surreal. It has been six years since Hublot first teamed up with acclaimed sculptor Richard Orlinski, transforming their signature look … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Orlinski in multi-faceted micro-blasted titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The newest Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor goes for a solid platinum case. If the case wasn’t enough platinum, the dial is also made from sandblasted platinum. The in-house calibre PF703 with a micro-rotor allows the whole watch to be just 7.8mm thick. Since Parmigiani Fleurier’s change of ownership and introduction of the Tonda PF … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor is a masterclass in platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a hand-made Micro Artist Studio creation displaying the ultimate finishing of the manufacture. This unofficial sequel to the SBGZ001 is white-birch driven versus snowflake driven. Will GS collectors feel like the SBGZ009 steps on the toes of SBGZ001 owners?. If you’re just starting your journey into Grand Seiko enthusiasm, … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SBGZ009 is a handsomely hand-engraved holy grail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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