Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex Air King Ref. 14000 Review
An unsung hero of the Rolex sports model lineup.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market
There are a lot of great podcasts out there on the world of watches, but the guys over at Worn & Wound do a particularly good job. One of the things they are great at is finding interesting people to speak with, which they did when they interviewed Tim Stracke, the C0-CEO and Founder of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED LISTENING: Chrono24 CEO on the Secondary Watch Market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
T+T Highlights: Sotheby’s Australia Important Jewels Auction
Next month, Sotheby’s Australia are hosting their Important Jewels Auction in Melbourne, with a catalogue that includes a small collection of watches. The focus of the offering is obviously heavily on jewellery, however it is great to see a large local auction house include a few interesting watches, too. After passing the catalogue around the … ContinuedThe post T+T Highlights: Sotheby’s Australia Important Jewels Auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection
Collecting watches is a lot of fun. At least, it should be. If it ever stops being fun, I’d assume that’s because you got into it for the wrong reasons (to make a quick buck, most likely). If you’re about to take the plunge into this massively rewarding hobby, but you’re doing so because you … ContinuedThe post To buy or not to buy – how to curate your watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In khaki and bronze: Montblanc 1858 Geosphere
Inspired by the vintage Minerva watches from the 1920s and 30s that were once used in the military, the 1858 collection pays tribute to the 160 years of the Minerva Manufacture and its extraordinary heritage. The new Montblanc 1858 timepieces uses design elements from historic models and redevelops them for the new ‘sports’ watch category, mountaineering.
SJX Watches
Omega Unveils Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition
As Tokyo counts down to hosting the 2020 Olympics, the games’ official timekeeper is also counting down with progressive rollouts of limited edition watches. Exactly a year to the start of Tokyo 2020, Omega has announced a pair of commemorative dive watches: the Seamaster Aqua Terra Tokyo 2020 and the slightly less interesting Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020. Inspired by the Japanese flag, the Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition is clad in white with red accents. It is based on the midsize Planet Ocean, so the steel case is 39.5mm in diameter (the largest size is 43.5mm). Both the dial and bezel insert in white ceramic. The “lollipop” tip of the seconds hand is in red, as is the “20” on the bezel. Inside is the Master Chronometer cal. 8800, a top of the line automatic movement with various innovations designed to ensure good timekeeping over long periods, including a silicon hairspring and Co-Axial escapement. And special alloys used for the escapement ensure it is magnetism-resistant to 15,000 Gauss. Key facts Diameter: 39.5mm Material: Stainless steel Movement: Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date Winding: Automatic Frequency: 25,200bph, or 3.5Hz Power reserve: 55 hours Strap: Delivered with three options – steel bracelet, rubber strap lined with white crocodile leather, and fabric “NATO” strap. Price and availability The Seamaster Planet Ocean Tokyo 2020 Limited Edition (ref. 522.33.4...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn?
Much has been written about the growth of the pre-owned watch market in recent years, but just how long has this been happening, and will watches hold their value during a recession? With consecutive seasons of watch auctions breaking all-time records, luxury conglomerate Richemont spending an estimated €200m to acquire second-hand dealer Watchfinder & Co … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This charming watch – explaining the Tudor Heritage Advisor
Editor’s note: I’ve always had a real soft spot for the Tudor Heritage Advisor. Not only is the alarm one of my favourite complications, but this watch - for all that it’s an outlier in the current catalogue - is a hugely important piece in the modern rebirth of Tudor. Read on to find out why … … ContinuedThe post This charming watch – explaining the Tudor Heritage Advisor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Tiffany-Signed Patek Philippe Ref. 725/2, An Iced Out 1985 Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 16758, And A Ecole D’Horlogerie Watch
Your weekly round-up of the best vintage watches from around the 'net.
Time+Tide
INSIGHT: The Great Escapement – Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart
It was a long time between drinks. An epic 200 years. And both beverages were served in Britain. We are talking about the invention of the lever escapement, the ‘beating heart’ of the mechanical watch, by British clockmaker Thomas Mudge around 1775. The only successful alternative, the co-axial escapement, was unveiled nearly two centuries later … ContinuedThe post INSIGHT: The Great Escapement – Explaining the Rolex with an Omega heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Living with the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM 1033
Originally a no-nonsense dive watch made for the frogmen of the Italian navy during the Second World War, Panerai has been moving towards more civilian-friendly sports watches. The evolution is best illustrated by the Luminor Due, which is smaller and thinner, and as far removed from a traditional Panerai as possible while still retaining the signature crown locking mechanism. At the same time, Panerai has also rolled out watches that are oversized like the military originals, but with an increasingly variety of dial colours, like the quartet with blue dials in 2016. Such metallic blue dials are currently fashionable, so it’s no surprise Panerai has continued with the same colour. The recent Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT PAM01033 is essentially an upsized, 44mm version of the PAM 688 from 2016. I had one on the wrist for a few days – here’s how the test drive went. Compared with the earlier PAM 688, size is not the only difference with the new Luminor PAM 1033. A small but significant design tweak is the colour of the hands: instead of gold hands as as before, the hands now match the case. Though the change is seemingly minor, it gives the watch a different look, one that’s more contemporary, because the hands, though small, are the focal point on the dial. But the beige Super-Luminova on the dial and hands is faux-vintage, which does not quite match the newness of the blue dial. The dial is a “sandwich” construction, a signature feature of Paner...
Time+Tide
Eureka! Joining the Casio gold rush
Editor’s note: I’ll be honest, there is a part of me that really likes this watch. There is something about a gold-tone full-metal G-Shock that appeals to the same part of my brain that is excited by a solid gold Doxa; it’s a part tickled by totally unnecessary extravagance that is just so fun. Luckily, … ContinuedThe post Eureka! Joining the Casio gold rush appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EVENT: Celebrating the Omega 50th Anniversary Speedmaster
Last weekend, Omega treated their faithful VIPs to a night with eyes trained to the stars, and the moon, in their lush boutique at Chadstone, the Fashion Capital. It was to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of humankind touching down on the moon – and the fact that this defining moment in the history of our … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Celebrating the Omega 50th Anniversary Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Vintage review: Bulova Accutron Spaceview
We take a close look at the Bulova Accurtron Spaceview and marvel at the level of engineering in this small watch made decades ago.
Time+Tide
T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender?
Here at Time+Tide HQ, the banter is fast, free-flowing and deeply uninteresting for anyone who doesn’t love watches. Sometimes this spitballing makes it beyond our four humble walls, such as when the team built a fantasy $20K watch collection, and this is another one of those occasions. The question posed to the team this time: … ContinuedThe post T+T Team List: Which watch marketed at a different gender? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 '25th Anniversary'
A new Grand Lange 1 celebrates a quarter-century of the Lange 1 with 25 examples.
Deployant
New: A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 25th Anniversary
The July issue of the monthly Lange 1 Anniversary collection continues with the Grand Lange 1. This is a 25 piece limited edition.
Revolution
Introducing the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”
The Lange 1’s 25th anniversary family of watches gets a grand addition: introducing the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”
The story of the A. Lange & Söhne 25th anniversary set is now well known: slated for October launch, the set will comprise 10 different Lange 1 watches, all clad in the same blue and silver livery. One watch has been announced a month since the start of the year, and the latest addition is the Grand Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”. First introduced in 2003, the Grand Lange 1 was initially criticised for meddling with an iconic design. It has since matured well, helped by several redesigns as well as a movement conceived specifically for the watch. Grand Lange 1 25th Anniversary Bigger and better It’s the larger brother of the Lange 1, with a case diameter that’s 2.5mm larger; making it 41mm compared to 38.5mm for the classic Lange 1. But because the movement inside was designed to fit the watch, it scales up the design while adhering strictly to the proportions and geometry of the original Lange 1. The new movement was required to accommodate the signature, off-centre displays of the Lange 1, which sit on a neat grid. The cal. L095.1 is 34.1mm, compared to the 30.4mm of the first generation Lange 1 movement, the L901.0. An upside of the larger movement is the consolidation of the twin barrels of the smaller Lange 1 into a single, larger barrel, while still maintaining the 72-hour power reserve. That leads to a small but crucial difference on the dial of the Grand Lange 1: the lettering at seven o’clock reads “Gangreserve 72 Stunden”, German for ...
Time+Tide
A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune
Editor’s note: Dive watches tend to be simple affairs, but not always. Justin embraces complexity (and calendars) in his review of the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune. Read on … The story in a second: A classy calendar for the life aquatic. Expanding on a dive watch collection - especially one with such … ContinuedThe post A date with the deep – the Blancpain Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phase de Lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1R.6-1
One of the world's most elegant superwatches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: De Bethune DB28 Steel Wheels Blue “The Hour Glass”
De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe
It’s long been a staple of watch collecting advice and lore - don’t keep your watches in your sock drawer or consumer-grade safe, keep them in a safe deposit box. Well, that old adage is looking a little stretched on the basis of a recent article in The New York Times, which recounts the harrowing … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Safe deposit boxes aren’t so safe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Commissioning Horological Art – A Watch Collector’s Experience
Lovers of horses, airplanes, yachts and cars can choose from many specialised painters if they want a piece depicting their favoured object for the walls of the home or office. While Salvador Dalí’s surrealist “melting watch” paintings are amongst the 20th century’s best known artworks, a search for current day artists specialising in the figurative depictions of watches generates barely a handful of names, though most of whom show their works on Instagram. This is the story of my first commission, a graphic of the Voutilainen GMT-6. The Voutilainen GMT-6 by Alex Eisenzammer (@watchoniste), commissioned by the author High-tech capture Particularly when wristwatches are the subject of art, I follow the original Latin definition of ars, “skills” or “craft”. Therefore, I regard flawless photography of watches as art, as with the Voutilainen 28 “Sarasamon”, captured by specialist watch photographer Guy Lucas de Peslouan. But perfect photographic illustrations tread a thin line between art and technology. When the photographer’s skills are not at the highest level and Photoshop is heavy-handedly applied, the results are hardly suited to truly capturing a watch, yet find often a place in press releases from brands. Voutilainen 28 “Sarasamon”. Image – Artsight/Guy Lucas de Peslouan The art of rendering watches or movements with software is very popular with manufacturers. CGI specialist Blade Render describes its philosophy as desir...
Time+Tide
Vince’s Konstantin Chaykin is no joking matter
Next up in our rolling cavalcade of ‘Every Watch Tells a Story’ stories is Vince. Now, this one is a bit of a funny one, and not just because the watch in question is the critically acclaimed Joker from Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin. If you’re not familiar with the Joker, it’s a very clever piece … ContinuedThe post Vince’s Konstantin Chaykin is no joking matter appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Counting down why we love the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321
Watch lovers across the planet have been collectively holding their breath this year, eagerly waiting for Omega to release a commemorative watch to celebrate humanity launching away from the planet. It was 50 years ago that American astronauts left the safety of their lunar module and stepped onto the surface of the Moon, with Omega … ContinuedThe post Counting down why we love the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Spending a month with the Tudor Black Bay GMT
Editor’s note: Bruce doesn’t write for us too much, but when he does, it’s absolute gold. From his classic Batman review to this extended wear of the Tudor Black Bay GMT. A great, insightful take on one of the hottest pieces in the market right now. When the Tudor Black Bay GMT debuted this year … ContinuedThe post Spending a month with the Tudor Black Bay GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution Watch Podcast Ep. 9: Michael Friedman
Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman comes onto the Revolution Watch Podcast for an insightful episode on the history of telling time.
Revolution
The Breguet Guilloché
Famous for the invention of the tourbillon, REVOLUTION takes a look at another pillar for one of watchmaking’s oldest brands: Guilloché.
Time+Tide
Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018
For as long as time has been indicated with hands on a dial, horologists have been hunting for different ways to communicate time. Contemporarily, this pursuit has taken some weird and wonderful forms, resulting in a few very clever feats of engineering to tell you what time it is. For those who are tired of … ContinuedThe post Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.