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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.
DUBAI DIARIES: What I am looking forward to for Dubai Watch Week 2021 Time+Tide
Nov 23, 2021

DUBAI DIARIES: What I am looking forward to for Dubai Watch Week 2021

The eagle has landed. Your American Deputy Editor has finally made it to Dubai Watch Week. Prior to joining the industry, I had always heard great things about this watch fair. In the weeks leading up to my flight today, various industry colleagues told me I was set to have one of the best watch … ContinuedThe post DUBAI DIARIES: What I am looking forward to for Dubai Watch Week 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Win $700 worth of straps by telling us your favourite strap monster watch, and watching our silly video Time+Tide
Doxa SUB 600T ‘pacific’ Necessity Nov 20, 2021

Win $700 worth of straps by telling us your favourite strap monster watch, and watching our silly video

The reason for this video was a late-arriving strap for our Doxa SUB 600T ‘pacific’. Necessity dictated that, with time running out to shoot a video, we had to choose an alternative aftermarket strap to put on the watch for the first appearance which, if you missed it, you can see here. The decision as … ContinuedThe post Win $700 worth of straps by telling us your favourite strap monster watch, and watching our silly video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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WHO TO FOLLOW: @timepeacelove, a watch collector sharing his journey through amazing storytelling Time+Tide
Nov 19, 2021

WHO TO FOLLOW: @timepeacelove, a watch collector sharing his journey through amazing storytelling

One of the most beautiful things about collecting watches is the journey. The ups, downs and everything in between make this hobby that much more interesting and fun. That’s why any time I bump into a fellow collector, I always sit down and enjoy stories about the road they’ve travelled and the details behind the … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @timepeacelove, a watch collector sharing his journey through amazing storytelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Nov 19, 2021

A Magnificent Watch Collection Goes on Show in London

Soon to open in London and then in other countries in 2022, the OAK Collection is perhaps the first time a private collector is staging an exhibition that’s open to the public. Taking place at the Design Museum with free entry, the OAK Collection exhibition is made up of just the highlights from the owner’s collection, but already numbers over 160 watches. [Edit December 1, 2021: The exhibition in London has been postponed to spring 2022.] Organised into thematic sections, the OAK Collection – short for “one of a kind” – is dominated by Patek Philippe. Most of the watchmaker’s most important historical timepieces are represented in the collection, including a ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial, as well as exceptionally rare variants of the refs. 1518 and 2499. And the collection naturally includes modern-day, special-order Patek Philippe watches commissioned by the owner. One of the exhibition’s highlights is the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 world time with a blue enamel dial that also takes centre stage on the event poster And the collection includes five pocket watches that once belonged to Henry Graves Jr, the American banker who was one of Patek Philippe’s most important clients in the first half of the 20th century. Outside of the Patek Philippe Museum, the OAK Collection contains the largest number of watches that once belonged to Graves. Amongst the former Graves watches in the OAK Collection is the 1935 observatory tourbillon pocket watch ...

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hollywood and Hamilton, Norqain and now onto Dubai Watch Week… Time+Tide
Hamilton Norqain Nov 19, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hollywood and Hamilton, Norqain and now onto Dubai Watch Week…

This month has been jam-packed with watch events, RedBar gatherings, an IWC Big Pilot Exhibition and much more. As a “pandemic hire”, I am suddenly getting the full watch industry experience. Back at the end of August I experienced three time zones, heading off to the COUTURE Watch and Jewellery show in Las Vegas from … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Hollywood and Hamilton, Norqain and now onto Dubai Watch Week… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet FPJ H Moser & Nov 9, 2021

Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021

Luxury watches can command exorbitant price tags at charity auctions and when piece uniques are on the table, the bidding wars inevitably heat up. We saw this recently during the Pink Dial Project auction, which Time+Tide was proud to be a partner of, and the trend continued at Only Watch, one of the largest recurring … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet, FPJ, H. Moser & Cie, and Zenith achieve record breaking results at Only Watch 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Auction Report: Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically Nov 8, 2021

Auction Report: Only Watch 2021

Only Watch 2021 was a landmark for the biennial charity auction in both scale and value. Organised by Christie’s, the ninth edition of Only Watch just took place in Geneva, with 53 timepieces having been sold for CHF30 million, or about US$32.8 million. Held for the first time in Palexpo, the sprawling convention centre near Geneva’s airport, Only Watch 2021 saw a turnout of over 850 people inside the cavernous room, a massive uptick in attendance compared to the one or two hundred in past years. People and faces Practically everyone who is someone in Swiss watchmaking turned up, including Thierry Stern of Patek Philippe, Frederic Arnault of TAG Heuer, Tudor chief executive Eric Pirson, as well as independent watchmakers like Kari Voutilainen and Francois-Paul Journe. Even Aurel Bacs and Alex Ghotbi of rival auction house Phillips were spotted seated in the room. Some of the boldface names were also bidding on lots in the auction, including Francois-Henri Bennahmias of Audemars Piguet who bid enthusiastically on the Chanel J12 pair and Jean Arnault of Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps who was after a creation by an independent watchmaker. While there were watch collectors from around the world present – including a contingent from Dubai Watch Club – there were fewer Asian bidders in the room compared to past years, presumably because of the travel restrictions still in place in most Asian countries. That said, many of the crucial bidders from Asia did turn up, inc...

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EDITOR’S PICK: @fakewatchbusta asks, is it EVER ok to wear a fake watch? Time+Tide
Rolex Nov 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: @fakewatchbusta asks, is it EVER ok to wear a fake watch?

Editor’s Note: In an interview from the forthcoming issue of NOW, Time+Tide’s annual Watch Buying Guide, we interviewed a guy who unrepentantly wears a fake Rolex. After trying and failing to buy a real Daytona at retail, he bought a “super-clone” that he claims will be a stop-gap until the day he hopefully gets the … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: @fakewatchbusta asks, is it EVER ok to wear a fake watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021” SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 4, 2021

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Martian Tourbillon “Only Watch 2021”

Inspired by German “rolling eye” clocks of the mid 20th century, the Joker is now Konstantin Chaykin’s trademark wristwatch. But the Russian watchmaker’s repertoire is far more diverse than the googly-eyed face – watches that tell the time on Mars are another of his specialties. For Only Watch 2021, Mr Chaykin has combined the two concepts in the Martian Tourbillon. The robotic clown face indicates the time and calendar on Mars, while the back reveals a one-minute tourbillon that makes one revolution every Martian minute. Initial thoughts The Joker Selfie Mr Chaykin created for Only Watch 2019 was not merely a simple variation of the standard model, illustrating both Mr Chaykin’s creativity and his desire to put together something genuinely special for the event. With most watches at Only Watch 2019 being variations of existing models, the Joker Selfie was notable for being unique in a technical sense. The watch had a built-from-scratch complication, a new base movement, and even a novel case material (which is being used once again for this year’s creation). The case is Bulat, a high-carbon, patterned steel alloy Once again Mr Chaykin has put together a truly one-off watch for the biennial charity auction. It is impressive and ingenious, with a Martian complication that’s synonymous with Mr Chaykin. Despite all its novelty, it is easily recognisable as a Chaykin wristwatch. Like its predecessor, the Martian Tourbillon has a unique complication, albeit o...

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Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue Nov 3, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Independent Watchmaking Highlights

The top lots amongst independent watchmakers at Only Watch 2021 are no doubt the F.P. Journe FFC Blue and Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II, but they will cost six or seven figures. But half of the participants at Only Watch are independent watchmakers, so there are a few more interesting examples of the genre, which might possibly be reasonably affordable. We round up five notable watches amongst the “indies”, ranging from the quirky and fascinating Urwerk that’s an upgraded example of the brand’s earliest watch to the stunningly engine-turned Andersen Genève Quotidiana. Urwerk UR-102 “Gaïa” Perhaps the avant-garde independent watchmaker, Urwerk is best known for revolutionising the presentation of time, having invented time displays using satellite cubes on a carousel and prisms in cylinders. But the brand’s creation for Only Watch 2021 looks nothing like its recent work, because it’s a quarter-century old, an artefact from the brand’s start-up days. The UR-102 “Gaïa” is a prototype of one of the brand’s earliest models – it is actually a vintage Urwerk – but dressed up smartly for the occasion, with a special case back decoration that signifies the brand’s success. The platinum case back is adorned with a sparkling, deep blue emblem that alludes to the Gaïa Prize, which Urwerk’s founders won in 2020 That said, being an Urwerk, the time display is far from rudimentary. While neither a cube nor a prism, it is still a wond...

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Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s tourbillon Nov 3, 2021

Up Close: Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II “Only Watch”

The first Chronomètre Contemporain was the watch that vaulted Rexhep Rexhepi into the top league of independent watchmaking. Now the young watchmaker has debuted the followup, first as a unique example for Only Watch 2021. The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II) resembles its predecessor inside and out, yet is entirely different in every aspect, from movement construction to the geometry of the lugs. But what it does share with the RRCC I is a gorgeously finished movement and thoughtful design. Initial thoughts On the face of it, the RRCC II for Only Watch looks like the original Chronometre Contemporain dressed in another dial. But it is entirely new in practically every aspect, right down to the geometry of the case. The RRCC II is akin to a generation of the Porsche 911 – the styling seems unchanged but it is actually a brand new car. The most obvious point of difference is the seconds hand – the RRCC II is a deadbeat seconds. That in itself is novel, because the jumping seconds complication is almost always implemented with a centre seconds. In fact, I can’t think of another watch with a deadbeat subsidiary seconds that isn’t part of another complication. In F.P. Journe’s tourbillon for instance, the deadbeat seconds is part of the constant force mechanism. Even the movement appears superficially similar, though it is quickly evident that it’s a new calibre solely from the two large jewels for the barrel pivots. This has twin barrels, in...

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First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity Quill & Pad
Oct 31, 2021

First Full Set Of Philippe Dufour Watches At Historical Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIV: Grande Et Petite Sonnerie (Wristwatch And Pocket Watch), Duality, And Simplicity

In November 2021 collectors have the chance to see (and possibly buy) all four Philippe Dufour watches in one place, making Phillips' Geneva Watch Auction: XIV what could well be the watch auction of the decade. Joshua Munchow takes a look at each of the four Philippe Dufour models on the block and examines why this is likely to leave its mark on the auction world for years to come.

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Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Monaco Oct 31, 2021

Hands-On: Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021

The upcoming Only Watch auction is an impressive catalogue of 53 one-off timepieces, a good number of which – more than a quarter of the total – are chronographs. Among the dozen chronographs, a couple caught my eye. One is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021. It’s essentially an evolution of the Breguet Type 20 created for Only Watch 2019, simple in design and execution but attractive in that simplicity. The Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021 Initial thoughts Like another notable chronograph in the sale, the TAG Heuer Monaco, the Type XX is reinterpretation of an iconic model of the brand. But the Type XX Only Watch 2021 is a nostalgic reinterpretation with a chocolate-brown dial that evokes the aged, “tropical” effect found on vintage examples. That said, the vintage styling is its only weakness. The Type XX is almost identical to the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 – right down to the strap – though the point can be made that the two make a perfect pair. The Type XX (left), and Type 20 They are each inspired by historical aviator’s watches made for the military and civilian markets respectively (the vintage Type XX was marketed to civilians, while the Type 20 was supplied to the French military). So this year’s Type XX should go home with the owner of the Type 20 from 2019. Almost a doppelgänger – the Type 20 Only Watch 2019 Notably, the Type XX is powered by a vintage movement, though one that is from a later period from an actual vintage Type XX. Still, giv...

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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Oct 30, 2021

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Complicated Desk Clock “Only Watch” Ref. 27001M-001

Having set the record for the most expensive watch ever when the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A sold for CHF31 million at Only Watch 2019, Patek Philippe has created something entirely different for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction. The Geneva watchmaker’s entry for Only Watch 2021 is the Complicated Desk Clock ref. 27001M-001, a tabletop timepiece inspired by a pair of historical clocks made in the 1920s for prominent American collectors. The front of the clock opens to reveal the pushers for adjustment as well as winding and setting sockets Initial thoughts While Patek Philippe’s past creations for Only Watch were unique variants of existing models, the ref. 27001M desk clock is a unique model. It also claims several “firsts”. The ref. 27001M is the only example of this reference ever created to date – and the first timepiece to be equipped with this movement – and also the first clock Patek Philippe has contributed to Only Watch. This makes the ref. 27001M truly unique against all of Patek Philippe’s diverse repertoire. The inscription on the inside of the lid Very much classical luxury in style, the ref. 27001M is an appealing timepiece. A couple of details could have been done better or removed altogether, like “The Only One” on the lower edge, but it is still a good looking object. At the same time, it is mechanically interesting, since the movement is not only a 31-day calibre but also being used for the first time by Patek Philippe. Thoug...

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Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster Time+Tide
Cartier Roadster Editor’s Note We Oct 30, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster

Editor’s Note: We recently presented our readers with the opportunity to submit their very own written “Every Watch Tells a Story” where they reflect on a timepiece that is very special to them and the narrative behind it. Here is Nelli’s (@tiffanyticks) tale of how she arrived at the Cartier Roadster and how gender-expectations confounded others … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Nelli’s Cartier Roadster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 1589 Editor’s Oct 28, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589

Editor’s Note: We asked for the anecdotes behind your timepieces as part of our Every Watch Tells A Story series. Straight away, we got this cracking yarn from Tim @inversepanda about how this delectable Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 found its way into his grateful possession. If you have a story that you’d like to share, … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Tim’s tale of compassion and a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 1589 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you Time+Tide
Oct 26, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you

EDITOR’S PICK: The home of Time+Tide is Melbourne, Australia. Unfortunately, this year Victoria’s state capital earned the regrettable title of the “world’s most locked down city” after enduring six lockdowns and more than 260 days under restrictions during the pandemic. The lockdown finally ended last Friday and the city’s beleaguered inhabitants are now looking forward to enjoying … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2021

OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch

When buying a watch, most people think about issues such as accuracy, water resistance or power reserve – but for me, it’s the typography that matters most. Before I go further, let’s start with a mini lesson: the words font and typeface are not synonymous. A typeface is a family of fonts (ie Times New Roman, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours?

As watch collectors and owners, we all have, in some form or another, an emotional connection with our timepieces. And if, like me, you have hunted after many watches over the years, then you know that the journey can be, at times, more interesting than the destination. When we attend a watch meetup, one of … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Every Watch Tells a Story – want to tell yours? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe, H. Moser & Cie, And Urwerk Unique Pieces On Auction (Video) Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe H Moser & Cie Oct 20, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe, H. Moser & Cie, And Urwerk Unique Pieces On Auction (Video)

Our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with three of the unique timepieces on offer at the upcoming Only Watch 2021, which takes place on November 6, 2021. The unique watches featured are the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue, the Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch, and the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa. Enjoy this rare treat!

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