Deployant
Christmas Special: All I Want For Christmas Is…
Our top picks for Christmas wishlists this year! This is the first of 4 installments from four Deployant staff members on their list to Santa.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002
Good morning, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Seiko released three new models in its Presage Cocktail Time collection. With a 38.5mm diameter, they are smaller, feature a less in-your-face date window at 4:30, and come in three color options. All in all, it’s a nice new offering from Seiko at the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (38.5mm) Vs. Baltic HMS 002 to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
An Ultem-Ate EDC Gear Guide
The post An Ultem-Ate EDC Gear Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Teddy Baldassarre
How Tight Should A Watch Be?
In the watch enthusiast community, we often find ourselves wading deep into the weeds of the most minute details. Typically, this concerns the mechanical inner workings of watches, whether a date window throws off visual harmony, or if the price of a watch is really justified. But as much nuance as there is in choosing a watch to add to your collection, so too is there nuance in getting that just-right fit on your own wrist. We’ve recently dove into the deep end on the subject of how to actually wear a watch, and today, I’m charting a similar, yet deceptively simpler path: how to decide how tight your watch should be. This is more geared towards those folks out there who are just getting their hands on their first watch and need a little guidance before making any rash, link-related decisions. God forbid you’re facing a rubber strap that you’ll be cutting yourself. Down below, I’ll be sharing some quick and fast tips for finding the right fit for the watches in your collection, and some less obvious tips to consider before you go on your merry way. [toc-section heading="Telltale Signs Your Watch Is Too Tight"] First and foremost, your watch is not a tourniquet. If you feel any lightheadedness, numbness, or tingling, remove the offending piece from your wrist expeditiously. Image: WatchUSeek Forum On a less dramatic note, comfort is your guiding light. Ideally, we want our watches to feel like an extension of ourselves, not an uncomfortable obtrusion. The...
Worn & Wound
Doxa and Topper Jewelers Introduce their Second Collaborative Limited Edition
While far from Topper Fine Jeweler’s first collaboration, the original Doxa x Topper Sub 300 “Great White” quickly came to define the strong suits of both the watch boutique and the celebrated Swiss brand. That original Great White was based on Doxa’s iconic Sub 300 model, but with some cheeky changes; namely, a luminous white dial, and the distinct lack of a date window. A year later, Doxa and Topper have teamed up again to produce a new version of the Great White, with the specs, and complications, shaken up. The new Doxa x Topper Sub 250T GMT “Great White” brings back the previous model’s cushion case design, but with slightly smaller dimensions. Measuring in at 40mm by 42.9mm in diameter, the new Great White trades in a fraction of the water resistance (250 meters versus the 300 meters offered on the Sub 300), but swaps in a brand new GMT complication that both shakes up the visuals, and adds a new layer of practicality. I had the opportunity to wear the new Great White for a few days, and my impressions of the overall design are largely the same as they were for its predecessor: the luminous white dial and Pantone 2955 C dark blue details create a look akin to porcelain pottery, while also calling to mind the iconic fish after which the watch is named. The beautiful beads-of-rice bracelet is back, and very easy to adjust, thanks to a micro-adjustment clasp and easy-to-remove links. It pairs wonderfully with the sleek cushion case and elevates the Gre...
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Legend Diver Review
The Longines Legend Diver is one of the brand’s most popular and lauded vintage-inspired watches due to its distinct style and tremendous value for money. The original Legend Diver that serves as the template for the contemporary iterations is the Super Compressor Diver Ref. 7042 that was launched back in 1959. In 2007, Longines debuted the Heritage Revival, which was a faithful reissue that was followed up with a date-window version in 2009. Fast forward to 2017 and Longines began to expand this collection to include options like a Milanese bracelet as well as a 36mm iteration to join the existing 42mm model. Then in 2023, we saw the Longines Legend Diver debut in a 39mm wide case that serves as the template for the white-dial iteration I review here. Of course, this is a truncated version of the Longines Legend Diver story, and you can read the full version by our resident historian Mark Bernardo here. There are currently eight dial-color variations in the Longines Legend Diver family: beige, black, blue, brown, green, grey, orange, and white, which is the most recent and the one I am going to get into here. If I had to pick a favorite, it might actually be the orange, which is more of a muted terra cotta that looks just excellent. That said, the white-dial model introduced earlier this year is a sleeper diver that stays with you long after you first see it. It’s not too difficult to nail a watch when you’ve mastered dial color techniques the way Longines has, but ...
SJX Watches
Fifty Years of Bvlgari Bvlgari with Marble Dials
Half a century after the Bvlgari Bvlgari was conceived by Gianni Bulgari and then redesigned by Gerald Genta, the Bulgari is making the occasion with Italian marble dials – without a date window – in both large and small sizes. This is the first instance the model sports a stone dial, which is paired with an in-house movement for the large mechanical model. Initial Thoughts In 50 years, the Bvlgari Bvlgari has gone through innumerable permutations in design and materials while retaining its key design element of a flat, engraved bezel. The 50th anniversary edition is mostly faithful to the original, with only one minor misstep: the bezel engraving is done by machine and lacks the character of the hand-engraved original. The addition of a seconds hand and display back to the automatic version will likely bolster sales, but detracts from the simplicity and refinement of the design. I do appreciate the unsigned crown and dropping the date. Also in its favor is pricing, which is reasonable for a solid gold watch from a major brand. Marbleous New Dials Initially conceived by Gianni Bulgari in 1975 as a digital watch gifted to top clients, the Bvlgari Bvlgari was subject to a 1977 redesign by the prolific Gerald Genta that made it a breakout success for the Roman jeweller. The case design was inspired by coins minted by the Roman Empire, which were struck with the current Emperor’s name along the perimeter. Genta’s 1977 Bvlgari Bvlgari of 1977 (left), and the original di...
Time+Tide
Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition
The first Big Crown ProPilot without a date window, this full lume dial Oris has a bear-shaped Easter egg.The post Oris continues its annual tradition with a luminous twist for 2025’s Hölstein Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Golden Gate Greatness: Bulova Unveils an Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco
The post Golden Gate Greatness: Bulova Unveils an Exclusive Snorkel Edition for Windup Watch Fair San Francisco appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Chopard Alpine Eagle 33: Where Luxury Meets Alpine Inspiration
Chopard drops the 4:30 date window for a few diamonds.
Time+Tide
Dave Portnoy admits defeat, announces fire sale for Brick Watch Company, blaming “watch geeks” for its demise
"Congrats to all the watch nerds. You beat me."The post Dave Portnoy admits defeat, announces fire sale for Brick Watch Company, blaming “watch geeks” for its demise appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Review: Patek Philippe Cubitus Ref. 5821 and Ref. 5822P
Patek Philippe has finally debuted the long-awaited Cubitus, a collection of “elegant sporty” watches. The Cubitus is an oversized square watch with an unexpectedly elegant profile – and some echoes of the Nautilus. While that might seem like an odd recipe, the Cubitus is a successful new creation. The collection is led by the flagship Cubitus ref. 5822P Instantaneous Grand Date (pictured above) in platinum powered by an all-new calibre. The Cubitus ref. 5822P in profile The bestseller, however, will be the entry-level model, the Cubitus ref. 5821/1A, a time-and-date in steel with an olive-green dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1AR is also a three-hander with date, but in two-tone steel and 18k rose gold with a blue dial. The Cubitus ref. 5821/1A Initial thoughts The most discussed new launch of the year, the Cubitus is many things – “elegant sporty”, a relative of the Nautilus, and controversial – but it also surprises on the upside. I like the Cubitus, especially the base model in steel. The large square bezel complements the “ears” on either side of the case, and the bracelet integrates unexpectedly well into the design. The Cubitus has obviously inherited genes from the Nautilus – Thierry Stern himself acknowledges that – but the result is more natural than the angular bezel suggests. And Cubitus doesn’t merely transplant cosmetics, but also employs the unique one-piece case construction of the Nautilus. Importantly, the Cubitus has good ergonomics....
Worn & Wound
Nomos Unveils a New Movement with Two Dates at their Annual Forum
I attended the 5th year of Nomos’s annual forum this week, and even though the theme was about design and colors, it was the new manual winding movement that received the most attention. As a seasoned writer who has closely followed Nomos’s trajectory, I often find myself anticipating the brand’s future moves. However, even with my extensive experience, the unveiling of the Tangente 2date ($2,760-$3,020) caught me off guard. I will be very open about what resonated with me, and what left me puzzled. Let’s begin with the movement itself. The DUW 4601 is a new manual winding caliber with a slim height of 2.8mm, and 52 hours of power reserve. Speaking with Mirko Heyne, head of research and development at Nomos, I learned that the previous manual winding caliber, DUW 4101, had the same height with a normal date complication, 42 hours of power reserve, and not the nice finishing we see on the new 4601. Both have the Swing System, the proprietary escapement developed by Nomos. In summary, the new movement delivers extra power reserve, better finishing, and has an additional date complication while still remaining the same height as the previous movement – that’s because the patented date wheel is integrated into the mainplate. Another significant technical advancement in the 4601 caliber is the quick set date mechanism. You can easily jump forward with the crown in the second position. When I saw the standalone movement with Mirko, my first impression was the sli...
WatchAdvice
OWNER’S PERSPECTIVE: Tissot PRX Powermatic 80
After over a year of ownership, the Tissot PRX has given me a new outlook on what makes a great, affordable luxury timepiece! What We Love: The finer design details comparable to more expensive watchesVariety of dial colours to choose from.Affordable/entry-level luxury at its best. What We Don’t: The date window could have been placed better for a more balanced dial view. Lack of colour choices to match the dials from the brand for additional straps. Lack of finer adjustment on the integrated bracelet. Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 9/10 When the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 was first introduced in 2021, it created quite a buzz! The timepiece came with an integrated bracelet design that had an AP-like shine, a waffle dial and a tonneau-shaped case with a circular dial. Those not versed in Tissot’s history didn’t know that this was a retake on one of the brand’s iconic 1970s designs (which I’ll touch on later) and saw this as a new kid on the block, one whose about to really shake things up in the affordable timepieces category. One of the main selling points of this timepiece was its price. For what you get in return, this timepiece offers a lot—quite a lot, actually. The PRX was first released with a quartz movement, staying true to its original, and priced around $500. Then came what we watch aficionados were waiting for: a mechanical version with a pretty hefty power reserve. 1970s Vintage Tissot ...
Time+Tide
IWC unveil subtle yet compelling tweaks to their Portugieser Automatic models
A 42mm model returns, now with a beefy power reserve and date window, while the 40mm gets a classy precious metal update.The post IWC unveil subtle yet compelling tweaks to their Portugieser Automatic models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans
As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. As watch collectors and enthusiasts know, the devil is in the details – whether it’s a pop of color, a date window, or a line of text, we know that subtle differences can make significant impacts. Sometimes these details don’t necessarily make or break a watch; rather they bring out different characteristics or evoke certain emotions. In the case of the MAEN x Worn & Wound Manhattan LE and the regular production Manhattan, we get two (maybe even three) different vibes altogether. The post A Tale of Two MAEN Manhattans appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand - then doubles down
Within basketball slang, the term “bricked” is used when someone badly misses a shot. A bricked phone, computer, or gaming console refers to when a device – typically after unauthorised modification – no longer can boot or power on. Bricked effectively means complete and utter failure, unless you add the word “up” after it – … ContinuedThe post Barstool Sports “presidente” Dave Portnoy offends watch lovers with his new watch brand – then doubles down appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer
EDITOR’S NOTE: Blame it on a certain Patek Philippe ad if you will, but the idea of the watch as a family heirloom passed down from father to son retains a special emotive power. Today, in many parts of the world, it’s Father’s Day and that’s a good enough reason for us to revisit D.C’s … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: How I revived my late father’s Breitling Navitimer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you
EDITOR’S PICK: The home of Time+Tide is Melbourne, Australia. Unfortunately, this year Victoria’s state capital earned the regrettable title of the “world’s most locked down city” after enduring six lockdowns and more than 260 days under restrictions during the pandemic. The lockdown finally ended last Friday and the city’s beleaguered inhabitants are now looking forward to enjoying … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 6 rules on how to attend a watch get-together without making everyone hate you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet
It’s no secret that British rapper Dave loves his timepieces, indeed he’s become a bit of a Time+Tide favourite when it comes to watch spotting. Ahead of his hugely anticipated sophomore album We’re All Alone in This Together, the lyrical genius took to his Instagram stories this week to announce the first single dropping would … ContinuedThe post British MCs Stormzy and Dave are crazy for Audemars Piguet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate?
Are you on team Rolex or team Omega? Does the horological excess of Richard Mille thrill you or make you shudder? In the world of luxury brands emotions can run deep. This week I discovered an intriguing exploration into the fickle world of consumer behaviour, in the Jing Daily newsletter and a story entitled: “Why … ContinuedThe post Why do some luxury watch brands provoke genuine hate? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much
Sometimes a professional rivalry gets personal. Grievances build up, eyes narrow and suddenly it all explodes into a fireball of drama and animosity. Something like that is now raging between Apple and Swatch in a long-running feud that, from the outside at least, seems petty, vindictive and wildly entertaining. The two companies just keep … ContinuedThe post Fight, fight, fight: Why Apple and Swatch hate each other so much appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection
Almost a year to the day since Dave made headlines at the annual Brit Awards for his heartfelt performance of hit single Black, Britain’s hottest rapper has got the watch world excited about his wristwear once again. At the Brits, he was wearing head to toe Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh with a rose-gold Audemars … ContinuedThe post UK rapper Dave adds a Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5168G in “khaki green” to his stellar collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nodus Retrospect Review: Back in Obsidian Black
Sandwich construction, strong lume, even a lumed trapezoidal frame around the date window... what more do you want?!?
SJX Watches
Up Close: Breguet Classique 5177 in Blue Enamel
Breguet is often at its best when it does traditionally styled watches with a twist, something exemplified by the Classique 5175 limited edition made for its Tokyo boutique in 2017. The design was classical, but the dial was blue enamel, instead of the usual white (or occasionally, black). This year Breguet revived the same look – albeit with a date window – for the new Classique 5177, once again in blue enamel. A longstanding model in the catalogue, the Classique 5177 was launched in 2006, but in more traditional livery – white enamel, or guilloche in either basketweave or hobnail. The latest iteration, however, is the most striking of the lot, managing to be both traditional and different. Formal dress At 38mm by 8.8mm, the case is perfectly proportioned as a modern dress watch; not too big and not too small. Like all Breguet watches it has long, narrow lugs, which give it a slightly larger footprint than its dimensions imply. On the wrist the watch sits graceful and flat, proportions that give it a look of proper formality, especially when combined with its restrained design. The profile of the traditional Breguet watch case, with a fluted case band and soldered lugs All the details of the new 5177 are old school, inspired by 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The obvious ones are the Breguet-style numerals and hands, while the less obvious, and more charming, elements include the star-shaped minute markers and the Breguet “secret” signature above six o’c...
Time+Tide
SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, (a very late) March 2018
Editor’s note: Full disclosure, this one slipped past the keeper in those hectic pre-Basel days. So to all of you people eagerly awaiting your dose of Spotted! (I know you’re out there), I’m sorry. But you know what, it might be late, but it’s still great. And with that, over to Andy. My March ‘Spotted … ContinuedThe post SPOTTED! BY AG: Dispatch 8, (a very late) March 2018 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MY WATCH STORY: Dane’s Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo
It’s not often you see a Linde Werdelin in Australia – many people haven’t even heard of the brand, never mind seen one – so when we came across a Melbourne-based collector with one, we were excited. When we spoke, Dane Stokes, who describes himself on his insta feed (@the_watch_vault) as a ‘watch collector and … ContinuedThe post MY WATCH STORY: Dane’s Linde Werdelin Oktopus Tattoo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moonphase
A. Lange & Söhne releases the Saxonia Moonphase at the recent SIHH 2016. As fervent fans of moonphase timepieces, this piece spiked our interest. Lange's specialty German engineering and age perfected finishing art are all evident in this timepiece. A notable Lange signature to the otherwise predictable moonphase layout is the large date display at 12, above the brand inscription. The famous outsize date is a style-defining facet of A. Lange & Söhne watches. It was first showcased in 1994, together with the SAXONIA model.
Deployant
New: IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff
IWC extends their Big Pilot's Watch Shock Absorber XPL in a three way collaboration with Toto Wolff and Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Watch Spotting in Call of Duty: Black Ops 6; An early 90s Watch Fan’s Dream
In a shadowy world of spies, double agents, black ops soldiers, and even zombies, watches can be essential tools used to coordinate attacks, anticipate timed explosives, and a variety of other tasks, especially when it’s 1991. But in Call of Duty: Black Ops 6 and real life 2024, they are primarily a fashion statement.