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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.
Recapping Fossil Signature’s Launch at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026 Worn & Wound
Fossil 6 days ago

Recapping Fossil Signature’s Launch at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026

Fossil’s new Signature Collection made its debut at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026, with a behind-the-scenes film, a Q&A; with Senior Creative Director Ryan White, and the first chance to get the watches on the wrist in the Fossil Signature Lounge. Fossil is taking a fresh swing at enthusiast watchmaking with Signature CS-1, a new collection built around thoughtful design, elevated materials, and Swiss craftsmanship. Launched at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2026, the collection brings Fossil’s distinctive design sensibility to a new premium watch platform. And we got to kick things off with a morning dedicated to the people who matter most: the watch enthusiasts who showed up ready to see what it was all about. A week before the fair, we shared a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of the Fossil Signature Collection, filmed at Fossil’s Dallas headquarters with Ryan. We also extended an invitation: come watch the film with us, here from Ryan directly, and get your hands on the watches before the rest of the fair got underway. The Screening Before Windup opened its doors on Saturday and Sunday, we gathered for the premiere of our short documentary, tracing the collection from its first spark of inspiration to the finished pieces. Seeing it on a big screen is one thing. Seeing it in a room full of people who care about how watches get made is something else entirely. The Q&A; Next, our Head of Partnerships, Kyle Snarr, sat down with Ryan for a conversation that picked up right wh...

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Remember You Must Die: 12 Skull Watches to Keep Your Mortality in Check Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Laughing Skull Bell & 6 days ago

Remember You Must Die: 12 Skull Watches to Keep Your Mortality in Check

While the idea of a skull watch might sound like a kitschy Halloween-themed novelty, they actually run deep in horological history, dating back to pocket watches of the 17th century in the memento mori tradition of reminding you of your own mortality. However, these were not the skull dial timepieces we think of today but instead “form” watches that, like the name states, take a shape beyond a traditional round timekeeper. In the case of the skull form, they typically shared a similar blueprint with the jaw unhinged, exposing the dial on the underside or roof of the mouth. Today, we see many watchmakers continuing in this tradition, shifting away from form watches and extending the imagery to dial designs, some of which are achieved by simple painting while others more closely echo the form watches with sculptural elements – here are a dozen of them. Bell & Ross Laughing Skull Bell & Ross steps out of its aviation roots with a series of skull watches adopting the skull and crossbones motif also known as the Jolly Roger. Here, the brand takes its signature square watch case to lay the foundation for the design, which extends across the dial and bezel. The piece comes to life thanks to a mechanical jaw automaton that moves up and down to mimic laughter when you wind the watch. Bomberg Edge Skulls Mosaic For Bomberg, the skull motif is not just a one off for a special edition collection – its core imagery featured prominently across several of the brand’s major line...

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Interview - Giving Artisans and Young Watchmakers a Platform - In Conversation with Baudouin Van Es of Tad Kozh Monochrome
6 days ago

Interview - Giving Artisans and Young Watchmakers a Platform - In Conversation with Baudouin Van Es of Tad Kozh

When Baudouin van Es set out to establish Tad Kozh, the goal was not simply to produce another limited-edition luxury timepiece. Instead, it was conceived as an incubator for heritage craftsmanship and a springboard for the next generation of independent watchmakers. By pairing independent manufactures with master artisans – giving those craftspeople full artistic carte […]

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Bring a Loupe: A Calabrese Baladin, A Royce Professional Marine, A Universal Genève Jump Hour Regulator, And A BWC Chronograph Hodinkee
Ulysse Nardin passed 6 days ago

Bring a Loupe: A Calabrese Baladin, A Royce Professional Marine, A Universal Genève Jump Hour Regulator, And A BWC Chronograph

Happy Halloween to everyone, and welcome to another Friday. I know there's big, important events going on all over the world—protests in France, elections in Serbia, Brazil, and Israel (and, next week, the US)—but I'm writing this before the outcome of the World Series has been decided, and as a hardcore midwesterner, that's really all I seem capable of focusing on. I hope whatever's snagged your attention is equally riveting. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Ulysse Nardin passed at auction and is now available direct from the auction house for €12,000. The Certina DS-3 and the Svend Andersen World Time both sell tomorrow, and the Eterna Majtek remains available, with a slight drop in the price. Strays Photo courtesy of Invaluable. If that LIP Mach 2000 caught your eye a few weeks back but you'd like a non-chrono version, here's a gray time-only one. Here's a Zodiac 2547N—the 'poor man's Heuer Carrera'—and if you'd prefer more funk, here's an exotic Sea Wolf Zodiac 722-946 on its original bracelet. Hess Fine Art not only has a fresh-to-market Paul Newman 6239 in its upcoming auction, but also this extremely uncommon Abercrombie and Fitch Rolex Oyster from 1927/28, and if that very old Rolex isn't quite for you, there's always this Rolco (Rolex Company) Oyster instead. This impeccable Movado will be an absolute steal if it stays within its estimate, and from the same auction, this Mathey Tissot triple calendar moonphase in 14k could be a great get, as could thi...

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Hands On: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur SJX Watches
Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur 6 days ago

Hands On: Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur

Louis Erard has become adept at translating the design language of pricey independent watchmaking into affordable watches, and the best proof of that is the Louis Erard x Vianney Halter Futur Antérieur. Modelled on the Vianney Halter Antiqua perpetual calendar, the Futur Anterieur is a regulator-style watch powered by two separate automatic movements. Named after Vianney Halter’s collection of steampunk watches, Futur Antérieur is Louis Erard’s third outing with the independent watchmaker, and is arguably a more sophisticated version of the preceding collaboration. While both share the same inspiration, the Futur Antérieur tangibly embodies the Antiqua, reproducing the feel of the original at a fraction of the price. Initial thoughts The Futur Antérieur is clearly an affordable watch that is not an Antiqua, but it is appealing. It captures the ambience of the Antiqua well. The shape is similar, and even the feel on the wrist. In this price segment this stands out as one of the more interesting offerings. Though this costs more than preceding collaboration editions, this is arguably better value. More broadly, the Futur Antérieur illustrates the growing sophistication of Louis Erard’s collaborations. They started as stock models with a new dial superimposed, while the Futur Anterieur is a new model conceived from the ground up. It’s also worth noting the details that replicate the Antiqua, like the chamfered edges on the case and bezel, and the stepped, two-to...

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Stopping Time: Rare Rolex Chronos with Pucci Papaleo Provenance SJX Watches
Rolex Chronos 6 days ago

Stopping Time: Rare Rolex Chronos with Pucci Papaleo Provenance

This November, Phillips will present Stopping Time, a selection of 16 Rolex chronographs owned by collector and publisher Pucci Papaleo, as part of The Geneva Watch Auction: XXIV, taking place on November 7 and 8 at the Hotel President Wilson. The selection is the first instalment of Mr Papaleo’s collection of approximately 70 Rolex chronographs, dating from the 1930s to the 1970s – and all in outstanding condition and some can even be rightly described as “unpolished”. Phillips presents these 16 watches as a compact survey of the Rolex chronograph: early pieces made before the Oyster chronograph was established, the waterproof chronographs of the 1940s and 1950s, and finally the Cosmograph Daytona. The Rolex ref. 6239 of about 1969 with the “Paul Newman Musketeer” dial, lot 22. Image – SJX composite/Phillips The publisher becomes a collector To say that Mr Papaleo loves vintage Rolex is an understatement — he even gave his children watch-inspired names. Besides building an impressive collection of vintage Rolex, Mr Papaleo contributed to horological knowledge as a publisher and has produced a number of reference books regularly cited in auction catalogues. Pucci Papaleo and his Rolex ref. 3233 being offered by Phillips. Image – SJX composite/Phillips His interest in watches grew out of his work in publishing. He began his career managing a small publishing house of his own, making guidebooks to Rome, Venice, and Milan, always with fine photographs. By hi...

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In Partnership - Dialed In: Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Global Hodinkee
Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Oct 29, 2026

In Partnership - Dialed In: Seiko Green Alpinist GMT Goes Global

When Seiko introduced its first dedicated sports watch, the Laurel Alpinist, in 1959, it was designed to provide reliable, legible timekeeping for outdoor enthusiasts amid Japan's postwar boom in activities such as hiking and skiing. The name "Laurel" paid homage to Seiko's first wristwatch, produced in Japan in 1913. Built to withstand harsh outdoor conditions, the watch featured an airtight screw-down case back to keep out dust and sand, wedge-shaped indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock for legibility, a 17-jewel hand-wound movement, and a leather strap pad to protect the case from sweat. In 1995, Seiko expanded the Alpinist's capabilities with an inner rotating compass ring, controlled by a second crown at four o'clock. Wearers could use the hour hand and the sun to determine cardinal directions, aligning the "S" marker halfway between the hour hand and 12 o'clock. The updated model also offered 20-bar water resistance, reinforcing its role as a robust field watch built for demanding use. Several design details introduced with the 1995 model remain central to the Alpinist today. Although it was offered in several dial colors, the distinctive green version became a lasting favorite. Green was an unconventional choice at the time, and Seiko initially expected the color to struggle commercially. Seiko introduced mechanical GMT models in 2023. While the blue and black versions (SPB377 and SPB379) launched globally, the coveted sunray green dial version was initially reserved ...

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Introducing - Citizen Brings Damascus Steel and Forged Carbon to a new Series 8 GMT Monochrome
Citizen Brings Damascus Steel Oct 29, 2026

Introducing - Citizen Brings Damascus Steel and Forged Carbon to a new Series 8 GMT

With its Series 8 collection of mechanical watches, Citizen has been delivering rather impressive models over the years, with the GMT collection being possibly the most appealing of them. Not only is it powered by a true GMT automatic movement (something rare in this price range), but Citizen has dared to bring singular designs, colours […]

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What is a Microbrand? Worn & Wound
Ming ly as Oct 29, 2026

What is a Microbrand?

What is a microbrand?  I think about this a lot, never more than in the days and weeks after a Windup, and particularly the days and weeks following the New York City version of our fair, which is the largest and most diverse in terms of the types of brands represented. We often hear people describe Windup as “the microbrand show” or something similar. Not in a pejorative way, necessarily, but as a way to distinguish it from an event like WatchTime (which is more focused on traditional luxury brands) or IndiesNYC (which, yup, is focused on “indies,” another hard to define term when you step back and actually try).  I don’t have an answer for what a “microbrand” actually is. Defining it gets more complicated when you consider all of the other small niches that pop up in the space. Terms like “micro-indie” and “challenger brand” have been thrown around a lot in the last few years, seemingly as an attempt to subvert a negative connotation with the microbrand moniker. But these terms have their own issues. Micro-indie implies, at least in how this publication has used it, that an element of the watch has some handmade craft or traditional watchmaking techniques behind it, but maybe uses a shortcut (like a case made in China, or an off-the-shelf movement) to save money. Not all brands and makers want to be seen as making compromises, even though essentially everyone short of, I dunno, Roger W. Smith and Philippe Dufour are making something about the proc...

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Habring² and SJX Reunite for a Finale with CFP “Star” SJX Watches
Rolex Galaxy” dials Gold-plated moon Oct 29, 2026

Habring² and SJX Reunite for a Finale with CFP “Star”

Our third and final collaboration with Habring² brings together the stellar motif of the Erwin “Star” and the monopusher chronograph format of the Chrono-Felix “Medicus”, adding a perpetual calendar to create our most complicated collaboration yet. Limited to 30 pieces, the Habring² x SJX Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” pairs a glossy black dial with applied gold stars and a matching gilded moon phase display, all housed in a compact 38.5 mm stainless steel case. The key facts A vintage-inspired, perpetual calendar monopusher chronograph Piano-black dial with eight applied star-shaped hour markers inspired by vintage Rolex “Galaxy” dials Gold-plated moon phase disc at 12 o’clock with a textured moon and stars Hand-wound Habring² A11CP movement combining the A11 chronograph base with a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module Chronograph pusher doubles as the day-of-the-week corrector Steel parts of the chronograph mechanism finished by German independent watchmaker Pöhlmann-Bresan Compact steel case measuring 38.5 mm in diameter and 13 mm high Triple-stepped bezel accommodates the perpetual calendar module “Star” motif repeated on the individually numbered case back and buckle Limited to 30 pieces total Priced at US$28,500 before taxes Concluding the trilogy The “CFP” formula is self-explanatory but uncommon: a hand-wound monopusher chronograph combined with a perpetual calendar, all executed in the compact, practical manner that defines the work...

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Introducing: Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star” Hodinkee
Rolex Stelline dials Oct 29, 2026

Introducing: Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual “Star”

What We Know Early this year, SJX and Habring released their second collaboration with Habring² for the Chrono-Felix Medicus, which seemed to be an overwhelming success with two variations. Now they're throwing things back to their first release, the Erwin "Star," with a new, more complicated base model. The new Habring² and SJX Watches Chrono Felix Perpetual "Star" uses a relatively new (for Habring) movement design of a monopusher chronograph and a Dubois-Depraz perpetual calendar module to make a watch that's still a great value for how complicated it is. The watch is very obviously inspired by vintage "Galaxy" style watches, like the famous Rolex Stelline dials that fetch incredible prices. The watch uses a black glossy lacquer dial with matte black subdials (with a concentric snailed finish). The dial features eight applied gold-plated star indices, matching hands, and even a gold-plated moonphase to match the entire design. Various other indices (especially for the calendar) are also printed in gold. The case is made in stainless steel, 38.5mm by 13mm, with a mix of brushing and polishing. The triple-stepped bezel helps mask the calendar module while housing the adjustment pushers along the edge. The manually wound movement runs at 4Hz and offers a 48-hour power reserve. The base is that Habring² A11 chronograph base, visible through a display caseback. The finishing of the levers (straight graining on the top and polishing on the bevels) was done in Germany by th...

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Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf Fratello
Oct 29, 2026

Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf

Watch fairs offer something online releases and product announcements can’t replicate — the chance to see watches in person, handle them, and talk directly to the people behind the brands. For enthusiasts, they can also be a great way to discover independent watchmakers and meet others who share the hobby. In this special on-location episode […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Daniela Pusch Live From WatchTime Düsseldorf to read the full article.

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Hands On: A Historical Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Wristwatch from 1927 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Wristwatch from Oct 28, 2026

Hands On: A Historical Audemars Piguet Triple Calendar Wristwatch from 1927

The early days of the wristwatch were interesting for the variety of forms and functions that were conceived as watchmakers were experimenting with a nascent device. One such watch is the Audemars Piguet triple calendar with moon phase in platinum from 1927 that’s one of the top lots in Monaco Legend’s upcoming sale. Now almost 100 years old, this triple calendar exemplifies the period when wristwatches, particularly complicated ones, were expensive and cutting-edge objects. Form cases in general seem to have been fashionable when wristwatches were a novelty. Leaving aside the round “trench” watches used by soldiers, many of the landmark wristwatch designs for civilians were in form cases. Examples include the Cartier Tank, Santos, and Tonneau. Many such wristwatches were time only, but there was clearly a tiny handful of clients for complicated wristwatches. Calendar watches, many in form cases, were also in vogue. Most prestigious watchmakers produced such watches, albeit on a tiny scale in a near-artisanal manner, making each of these watches almost unique. Breguet, for example, sold a tonneau-shaped retrograde perpetual calendar in 1935 to Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. Audemars Piguet made fewer than 50 such rectangular triple calendar wristwatches in the 30 years from 1924, and this is the one example known in platinum. All of these watches were powered by the cal. 10GHSM, as this one is, save for the very first example that was made in 1924 and now reside...

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Photo Report: A. Lange & Söhne Brings A Glimpse Of History to New York City Hodinkee
Ming age doesn't end Oct 27, 2026

Photo Report: A. Lange & Söhne Brings A Glimpse Of History to New York City

I'm not the biggest birthday person. I largely subscribe to Patton Oswalt's take that, once you're past about 21, if your oncoming age doesn't end in a '0' (or maybe a '5,' but even that's a stretch), you can largely skip the celebrations and fuss. That said, I'm always willing to make an exception, and when I learned that A. Lange & Söhne — truly and unreservedly one of my favorite watch brands of all time — was coming to New York City to celebrate its birthday weekend this year, I was excited. Walter Lange, Günther Blümlein, and Hartmut Knothe at the 1994 launch of the Lange 1, Saxonia, Arkade, and Tourbillon "Pour le Mérite." Image, courtesy A. Lange & Söhne. It turns out my excitement was well rewarded: not only did the brand drop what may immediately be my favorite release of 2026, a new Datograph Perpetual, but they also put together a retrospective exhibit that would have thrilled any Lange fan. They even managed to track down the exact same Soviet-era stacking chairs. These few had to be shipped from Poland, but it was worth getting it right for the photo op. With a collection that featured everything from antique Lange pocket watches — produced before the company was subsumed by the German state in anticipation of the Second World War — to highly technical modern offerings from the brand, this display, which was hosted in the William Ziegler Mansion (better known today as the Academy Mansion), just a stone's throw from both Central Park and the A. Lan...

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Sinn Announces their Autumn Novelties Worn & Wound
Sinn Announces their Autumn Novelties Oct 27, 2026

Sinn Announces their Autumn Novelties

It’s finally autumn (even here in California), which means changing leaves, tasty hot beverages, and a smattering of new Sinn novelties. Like the coziest cafe array of apple ciders, hot chocolates, and pumpkin spice lattes, this latest trio of pieces from the German independent are as diverse as they are classically Sinn-flavored. You may not be surprised by the clean and efficient designs that the brand is known for, but Sinn has a rather colorful surprise up their sleeve—read on to find out more.  556 I FAZ II Green and Orange Limited Editions Love your watches simple and tactical, but want a little more color on the wrist? The new 556 I FAZ II may be for you. Made in collaboration with respected Sunday newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung (FAZ), it comes in two appropriately fall-flavored colors—orange and green—but maintains the reliable pilot watch legibility and functionality to keep the design subtle and professional. The stainless steel and satinized case has a diameter of 38.5mm with a thickness of 11mm (including the sapphire crystal), making it solid but not big, which should bode well for the vast majority of wrist sizes. In classic Sinn fashion, the dial is kept free of distraction, with just the Sinn logo at 12 o’clock, and a date window at 6.  The dial itself is crisp electroplated silver to match the off-white hue of newsprint, providing excellent contrast with the orange and green accents respectively. Depending on which color model you cho...

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Introducing: WM Brown x Timex Hodinkee
Timex What We Know Matt Oct 27, 2026

Introducing: WM Brown x Timex

What We Know Matt Hranek, founder of WM Brown and author of A Man & His Watch, has collaborated with Timex for the first time on a dress watch. Designed exclusively for WM Brown, it is a tank-shaped steel watch with a light grey dial and a quartz movement. The stainless steel case measures 26.5 x 41.3mm with a 20mm lug width. The top is vertically brushed, the sides are horizontally brushed, with a polished diamond-cut edge and sharply inclined lugs. The light grey dial has a two-hand layout with small seconds at six o'clock (with a subtle WM Brown logo) and full Arabic numerals. The WM Brown wordmark sits at the bottom of the dial alongside the Timex branding. It is powered by a Miyota 1L40 quartz movement and has a mineral glass lens, a customized case back and 50 meters of water resistance. The watch comes as a gift set with two options: a brown leather strap with a stainless steel buckle and a stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly deployant clasp. The WM Brown x Timex gift set costs $349 and includes both the bracelet and strap. It is available now through Timex and WM Brown. What We Think A WM Brown and Timex collaboration feels so right. Hranek and Timex went with something a little more refined and dressy, and I think it works. The color scheme typically used in the WM Brown logo has been replaced with a monochromatic logo that integrates subtly into the dial. The dress-watch foundation suits the partnership, and the design feels as seamless as the collaboration...

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Discovering Vertigo Watches : Three Timepieces That Caught Our Eye at WARO WatchRider
Oct 27, 2026

Discovering Vertigo Watches : Three Timepieces That Caught Our Eye at WARO

Attending the WARO (Watching Romania) event in Bucharest is always an exciting experience for anyone who genuinely loves horology. It is one of those watch gatherings where you do not just admire timepieces through display cases, you actually get to talk to creators, feel the weight of the cases, and discover microbrands that rarely get the mainstream spotlight. During our latest visit, one brand in particular caught our attention at the tables: Vertigo Watches. Hailing from Rome, Italy, Vertigo is an independent microbrand focused on delivering solid mechanical design, distinctive aesthetics, and strong value for money. While browsing their collection, three specific models stood out. Here is our grounded, hands-on look at what Vertigo brings to the wrist.  Vertigo Pilot One V2 Full Lume The Pilot One V2 Full Lume immediately catches your eye, even in normal ambient light. Flieger and pilot-style watches usually focus on stark legibility, but Vertigo took it a step further here by coating the entire dial surface in luminous material.  It comes in a 41mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 14mm, giving it a solid presence on the wrist without feeling overly cumbersome.  Inside, it houses the manual-wind Seagull ST1901 mechanical chronograph movement. Watching the hand-wound movement through the display back adds that tactile connection many collector enthusiasts crave.  VERTIGO Tornante Black: Vintage Motorsport Energy Moving away from aviation and into th...

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