Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tutima Flieger T5: A New 38.5mm Titanium Pilot Watch
The Tutima Flieger T5 brings a smaller titanium case and a familiar ETA-based automatic to the brand's modern pilot-watch family. A TBWS first look.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hodinkee
Essays: Georges Daniels At 100 And A Personal Reflection By Roger W. Smith OBE
On the 100th anniversary of the birth of the legendary horologist and watchmaker Dr. George Daniels CBE, Hodinkee is honored to publish an essay from Daniels protege and friend, Roger W. Smith OBE, who has taken up the mantle of continuing the legacy of Daniels and his method of watchmaking. The bond between the two of them, though decades apart in age, has revitalized the rich legacy of British watchmaking. After the article, we'll share excerpts from an interview with Smith about his relationship with Daniels. — Hodinkee George Daniels at 100, A Personal Reflection by Roger W. Smith OBE On 19 August 2026, Dr. George Daniels CBE would have celebrated his 100th birthday. For most people, a centenary is an opportunity to look back. For those of us fortunate enough to have known him, it is also an opportunity to reflect on ideas that remain remarkably relevant today. The George Daniels Grand Complication from 1987. Throughout his lifetime, George made just twenty-four pocket watches and two wristwatches. I remember chatting with him on the opening night of his 'Retrospective Exhibition' at Sotheby's in 2006. Before the exhibition cases had been filled, he told me he had been sitting beside the assembled collection of his life's work. It fitted into just two A4-sized foam-lined metal trays. Yet those twenty-six watches contained ideas that fundamentally changed modern mechanical timekeeping. Few, if any, watchmakers have produced so little, yet influenced so much. "The Blue...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Are Luxury Divers Better Than Mid-Price Options, or Just More Famous?
Find out what our testing reveals about luxury dive watches, where the premium shows on the wrist, and how closely mid-price alternatives match the experience.
Monochrome
Twelve on Time - Louis Erard’s Manuel Emch and his Personal Relationship with Time and Watches
Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking – […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Richard Mille RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago
Launched just a few weeks ago, the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago is modelled on the Colnago C68, the same road bike used by Tadej Pogacar, the current Tour de France champion who has long worn a Richard Mille while racing. Though new, the RM 64-01 is still quintessential Richard Mille in form, substance, and price. The watch is large, lightweight, and exceptionally, satisfyingly ergonomic. As is tradition, the RM64-01 movement is the work of Audemars Piguet Le Locle, formerly known as Renaud Papi. The case material is made by longtime partner NTPT, a Swiss carbon composites specialist. And in the great tradition of Richard Mille, the RM 64-01 is very expensive. Tadej Pogacar with the RM 64-01. Image – Richard Mille Initial thoughts The RM 64-01 is the typical large format tonneau-shaped case shared with most current Richard Mille models. At about 43 mm wide, almost 50 mm long, and over 14 mm tall, the case is big, but sits perfectly on the wrist thanks to its curvature and lightness. And while thick, integrated rubber straps normally detract from wearability, the strap adds to the ergonomics of the RM 64-01. The watch is almost entirely in bright white, with accents of bright blue and rose gold — it makes a statement, even from a distance, as most Richard Mille watches do. But zoom in past the over-the-top aesthetics and the movement reveals fine detailing. The blue and white bridges are all titanium, but painted by hand to mimic the Colnago C68 bike frame. The tradition...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: Vario’s Navi Collection Goes International
As I expand my knowledge of microbrands, I was super excited to receive a sample from Vario, a Singapore-based company that’s been going strong for a decade. The brand’s latest offering builds on its Navi collection, which first joined Vario’s catalog in 2021. The line holds firm to its nautical roots with its sleek and refined interpretation of a porthole throughout the case and dial along with its compass and anchor hands and sailor-cap crown. Over the past five years, the Navi has taken a few forms, from the inaugural jump-hour to special editions like the Popeye and Vario’s collaboration with Watch Enthusiasts India (WEI). In 2024, we saw the introduction of a single-hand version, offering a slow-time display with an Engine Order Telegraph (EOT) 12-section dial in which each of the 12 sections is broken down into 15-minute intervals for a general reading of the time rather than one to the exact minute. Now, Vario builds on this design with five new colorways and, for the first time, new languages. With this extension of the Navi collection, Vario is taking the line into international waters starting regionally with Chapter One: Europe. The foundation of the models remains the same as what we saw in the original and now sold-out single hand version. The case is rendered in 316L stainless steel and executed in highly wearable proportions at 38mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness. The lugs strike a good balance of geometry and curvature that allows the model to si...
Hodinkee
Twelve Market Observations By Ben Clymer (August 2026)
Some version of this story has been in the back of my mind for months, maybe years. Because I see, hear, and experience so many wild things in my watch life that it's hard to really understand, I thought the best thing I could do was share them with you. Some of the below are simple opinions; others are hard and true facts. I think I have a unique position in the watch space as the president of a large media outlet (so I see traffic information and click tendencies), I'm a long time consumer of all kinds of watches (vintage, new, independent, big and small), something of a pundit on the industry for large media outlets, a participant in basically all the organizations that focus on the watch industry, and of course, an officer at one of the largest modern watch retailers in the world. Beyond that, the amount of DMs I get from total strangers asking me watch questions is simply b-a-n-a-n-a-s (should that be a series unto itself?). So I thought I'd take some of what's been on my mind from all of the above sources and put it on paper to be read, debated, and (dis)agreed with. So, here are five things that are happening in the watch world that make zero sense, and five more that make a ton of sense. FIVE THINGS HAPPENING IN TODAY'S WATCH MARKET THAT MAKE ZERO SENSE 1. Complicated (Vintage And New!) Patek Philippe Is Trading Below Where It Should Be Trading The 5270G is a fantastic watch, and even at retail, represents very solid value compared to what else is happening out...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Seiko x Tradman's Bonsai Presage Classic Series
What We Know It may not always come as a surprise when Seiko releases a new collaboration, at least in the abstract. Still, it is always exciting to see just who Seiko has chosen to partner with, and what that partnership can turn into. This time, Seiko has paired itself with Tradman's Bonsai, a Japanese creative collective whose mission is to celebrate and continue exploring the traditional art of Japanese Bonsai through both the creation of Bonsai spaces and the pursuit of collaborations with brands in the street culture, fashion, and art worlds. The result here is the latest addition to Seiko's Presage line, Seiko's dressier alternative to other, more technical watch families likeProspex. It's also the line Seiko often uses to celebrate heritage Japanese aesthetics and artistry, making it a perfect canvas for Seiko to honor Bonsai, an art form that involves growing, cultivating, and shaping small-scale trees with rigorous dedication and precision. With this watch, Seiko has evoked Bonsai trees in several ways, most clearly with the introduction of a new dial color and texture. Inspired by the bark of aging pine trees, the new pattern gently spirals outward from the center of the dial and is paired with a deep green gradient treatment and a dual-curved sapphire crystal with an AR coating on the inside. A 38mm stainless steel case with a fluted bezel and yellow-gold-tone finish houses the dial and the watch's 6R51 movement, a time-only automatic from Seiko with a 72-hour ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best Field Watches Under $1,000: Top Picks from a Decade of Testing
Discover the 8 best field watches under $1,000 we've actually worn and tested. Find the ones that best balance comfort, legibility, and long-term ownership.
Fratello
Buying A Watch Tool Kit And Fitting A Sapphire Case Back To A King Seiko 44-9990
There is a moment in every watch enthusiast’s journey when admiration turns into curiosity. You stop merely wearing watches and begin to wonder what lies beneath the dial, behind the polished steel, and under the engraved case back. For me, that moment arrived with a vintage King Seiko 44-9990. The King Seiko 44-9990 already occupies […] Visit Buying A Watch Tool Kit And Fitting A Sapphire Case Back To A King Seiko 44-9990 to read the full article.
Deployant
New independent maison - Legare opens fire with Chapter 1
A new independent maison. Legare debuts with the Chapter 1 AGP Inverted, a watch with 2escapements driven by a differential.
Time+Tide
Franck Muller Vanguard Damascus brings ancient technology to modern horology
Two modern takes on an ancient metal in both solid dial and skeletonised forms from the daring Franck Muller
Monochrome
Introducing - Porsche Design Chronograph 1 - 911 GT3 100 Jahre Nürburgring
Few racing circuits are as well-known outside the car fan community and command the respect and mythology of the Nürburgring Nordschleife. For almost a century, it has served as the proving ground for racing drivers, manufacturers and performance cars, and few brands are more closely associated with it than Porsche. Beyond countless motorsport victories, every […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Privé Les Opus
The many shapes of Cartier were on full display at Cartier during Watches & Wonders, where the brand released the Privé Les Opus, a trio of platinum models with burgundy accents to mark the 10th anniversary of the brand’s Privé collection. The Crash Squelette is the only all-new model — with a new open-worked calibre — and the only limited edition. The Tank Normale and Tortue Chronographe Monopoussoir tread little new ground, but the platinum-and-burgundy livery is easy to like, and manages to be both distinctive and discreet. Initial thoughts Cartier occupies an enviable position in the luxury watch landscape, being the only brand among the top 10 luxury watchmakers (by revenue) with a sizable jewellery business. Perhaps for this reason, it’s also the only brand to achieve this level of success primarily on the basis of design, rather than technical innovation or haute horlogerie complications. The Opus trio proves why. Cartier earned its reputation as the “watchmaker of shapes” over more than a century, and today enjoys a rich back catalogue of designs. The three models chosen to represent the 10th anniversary of the brand’s high-end Privé line — the Tank Normale, the Crash, and the Tortue Monopoussoir — are among the fan favourites. The Tank Normale — especially on this bracelet — is one of my favourite Cartier models, offering a truly vintage look with modern build quality. Reflecting Cartier’s growth as an industrial watchmaker, each watch...
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: ERG’s “Grand Seiko” Book Is How Modern Brand Books Should Be Done
Over the past few weeks, I've been taking a slightly overdue look through a backlog of recent acquisitions for my library. As I pointed out recently in a story on Taschen's "Ultimate Collector Watches," buying more books scratches the knowledge-acquisition part of my brain while saving me from writing a check the watch-collector side of my brain can't cash. Yes, I already have a few bins full of books lying around, and piles around the living room. But New York apartment sizes be damned, I'm acquiring more books. I recently had a spinal fusion and, while I'm recovering just fine, I'm still sorting out how to photograph watches without bending or twisting for a few months. All the books in my backlog are under 10 pounds (just barely), so my doctor can't get mad at me for lifting. So I'm going to turn this into a short weekly column to go through some books I have that deserve coverage. And the first one I picked up (both originally a few months back and again, for this column) was the succinctly titled and gorgeously produced "Grand Seiko" by ERG Media published earlier this year. As an official Grand Seiko-approved product, everything carries the brand's (often exacting) seal of approval. But it's also anything but a sanitized and soulless look at a brand's heritage and history. Instead, "Grand Seiko" weaves a beautiful look at watches and watchmaking with Japan's culture and landscape, and Grand Seiko's New York flagship. But first, you've got to appreciate the packaging....
Worn & Wound
Sheffield Unveils a Chronograph for a Great Cause
If you’ve attended a recent Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, there’s a very good chance you’ve run into Doug LaViolette. Doug is the founder of the Brian LaViolette Scholarship Foundation, a Wisconsin based watch enthusiast, and honestly one of the nicer people you’ll encounter in this hobby. For years, the scholarship foundation named for his late son has raised money for over 1,200 scholarships for students across the United States and abroad, and now a new watch from Sheffield, a limited edition of just 95 pieces, will help in the cause. Before we get to the watch, it’s important to have some context and understand the story behind it. Brian LaViolette was given his first watch at the age of four. It was a Green Bay Packers themed watch, and it kicked off a fascination with watches and watch collecting that would last until his life was tragically cut short at the age of 15 in a swimming accident. The LaViolette family founded the scholarship foundation shortly after Brian’s death, and Doug’s own watch enthusiasm continues in earnest to this day. Sheffield is a natural choice as a collaborator for the LaViolette family. For starters, there’s some geographical proximity. Founder Jay Turkbas grew up in Minneapolis, and that is where his fascination with watches began. There is also some symmetry in the origins of Sheffield as we know it today. The original incarnation of Sheffield, a historically British brand, was the maker of the first watch Turkbas eve...
Deployant
Two stunning new Seiko Presage Classic Series “Craftsmanship”
Discover the new Seiko Presage Classic Craftsmanship Series. These stunning enamel and urushi lacquer watches beautifully revive the historic 1913 Laurel.
Monochrome
Twelve on Time - A. Lange & Söhne’s Wilhelm Schmid and his Personal Relationship with Time and Watches
Twelve on Time is a conversation series that invites leading personalities from the watch industry to step beyond their work and speak more personally about their relationship with time, creativity, and craft. Through a set of twelve questions, the column aims to lift the veil on both the individual and their perspective on watchmaking – […]
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Big Brands to Beat
Episode 50 of the SJX Podcast rounds up recent reviews, including a review of a new book about Universal Genève chronographs, and the latest updates to long-running platforms from Breguet and Patek Philippe. The discussion also explores the intensifying competitive landscape in high-end watchmaking as big brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, and A. Lange & Söhne close the gap with many artisanal independent brands. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
Complicated Collectors: J. B. Champion Jr.
On October 25, 1967, Joe Ben “J. B.” Champion Jr. sat silently through the murder trial of a client named E. K. Bearden. It was the second time the prominent Texas defence attorney had conducted himself in this fashion in just a few months, claiming he had “used time to [his] advantage” during the trial. But no great strategy emerged and both clients were found guilty. Champion’s mysterious behaviour was concerning for a man who once objected to being called a “pretty good” lawyer, retorting “Pretty good? I’m the best!” The apparent carelessness of his courtroom antics contradict the fastidious elements of his personality that are apparent from his single-minded approach to watch collecting. Ardmore to Dallas Champion was born on August 16, 1917 in Dallas, Texas. His father’s oil royalties left him independently wealthy; he never needed to practise law to support himself, but did so anyway. Friends attributed it to the same competitive streak that had made him a regionally ranked tennis player before he turned to the courtroom. He stood an imposing six-foot-two inches by one account, and was accustomed to winning. He studied law at the University of Oklahoma and joined the family firm, Champion, Champion and Wallace, in Ardmore, commuting from a townhouse in Dallas. The Chateaubriand restaurant in Dallas. Image – SJX composite/Wikimedia By all accounts, he was a punctual man, and his evenings ran on a schedule as fixed as anything at the Geneva Obse...
Time+Tide
CIGA design’s EDGE Collection puts exposed mechanics front and centre
The CIGA Design EDGE Collection puts mechanical architecture centre stage with six new skeletonised models led by the Hunter Tourbillon.
Deployant
Quiet Luxury: Six understated and excellent timepieces to add into your watch collection
Looking for a timepiece that embodies the concept of quiet luxury? We have selected a series of six watches for your consideration.
WatchRider
Upcoming Casio MTP-E740 Series: Specs, Price, and Why It’s a £85 Steal
The upcoming Casio MTP-E740-4AV and MTP-E740-2A1V are vintage-inspired watches launching soon for just £85. Proving that budget-friendly watches don’t have to be boring, these new releases feature a stunning see-through dial design that punches well above its price bracket. A Striking Translucent Dial Design The standout feature of the new MTP-E740 series is undoubtedly its dial. Drawing heavy inspiration from the classic 1970s Seiko Time Sonar, Casio has incorporated a transparent face that reveals the mechanical day and date wheels underneath. Usually, entry-level Casio day-date models hide this calendar mechanism behind a solid face. By exposing it, Casio gives these models a playful, layered, and premium look that is rarely seen at this price point. The Standout Models: Orange and Navy While the collection features several colors, two models steal the show: MTP-E740-4AV (Orange): if you want a watch that immediately catches the eye, the MTP-E740-4AV is the undisputed star of the collection. The bright orange colorway perfectly complements the retro-futuristic transparent dial, giving the watch a summery, high-energy feel. Orange dials have historically been associated with dive watches and motorsport chronographs, but putting it on an everyday stainless steel piece gives it a remarkably fresh vibe. The bright, vibrant orange dial is an absolute head-turner. It provides a bold contrast against the stainless steel case and makes the exposed cal...
Monochrome
Buying Guide - Two-Tone Charm, with Five Effortlessly Cool Steel-and-Gold Watches
There are plenty of ways to stand out from the masses when it comes to watches. You can go for a bold design, a unique dial material, flashy colours or a mesmerising complication. Or you can opt for a combination of materials that brings together the coldness of stainless steel with the warmth of gold. […]
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200
With the summer break still in full swing, it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. In today’s match-up, two watches that could have easily made for your perfect affordable summer watch. But that would also be selling them short, because they are great for daily wear at a friendly price. Daan’s pick this week is […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Citizen Tsuyosa 37 Vs. Casio Edifice EFK-200 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
New releases from Seiko, IWC, Selten and more
During the past week, we’ve seen lots of brands looking back into the past and tradition for inspiration. Seiko looks into traditional Bonsais while IWC celebrates its historical partnership with Mercedes-Benz. Jackie Ho uses his own story as inspiration for a food-inspired watch. Discover the rest of the selection below and enjoy the reading! Seiko … Continued
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: Primetime Trailer, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and Porsche 911s
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Primetime Trailer The full trailer for Primetime has been released, with Robert Pattinson continuing his run of being in what seems to be every movie this year. In this film, Pattinson plays Chris Hansen during the height of To Catch a Predator and following the Dateline NBC correspondent behind the sting-house segments that confronted adults who believed they were meeting minors online. From early reviews, the film will examine the cross-section of journalism, spectacle, and entertainment – something still very much in our cultural conversation today. Directed by Lance Oppenheim, the film also stars Merritt Wever, Skyler Gisondo, Phoebe Bridgers, Matthew Maher, and Bokeem Woodbine, and is set to release in theaters September 25, 2026. Lindsey Buckingham and Stevie Knicks’ Relationship I think the best anti-artificial intelligence argument out there is that AI can’t make art because it can’t fall in love or experience heartbreak. To understand art as a human experience, it has to be woven with at least a teeny little bit of pathos, don’t you think? I mean, look at Fleetwood Mac. Stevie Nicks and Lindsey Buckingham’s relationship permeated the band’s ...
WatchRider
Timex Automatic E Line Grows to 38mm With Three New Integrated-Bracelet Models
Timex has introduced a larger 38mm version of the Automatic E Line, turning the compact design that returned in 2024 into a more substantial watch with an integrated-bracelet appearance. The new range includes the silver TW6A00500, the two-tone TW6A00600 and the teal TW6A00700. All three share the same case dimensions, Japanese automatic movement, horizontally textured dial and date display. The teal TW6A00700 brings the strongest colour to the new 38mm Automatic E Line. This is not the first modern E Line. Timex revived the design as the Automatic 1983 E Line Reissue with a 34mm rounded-square case. That watch followed the size and simple character of the original more closely. The 38mm models keep the familiar TV-shaped outline but move the collection in a more modern direction. They are larger, thicker and fitted with a conventional butterfly clasp instead of the tool-free expansion band used by the smaller version. A 1983 Timex design in a much larger case The E Line name reaches back to a Timex watch from 1983. Its rounded-square case became known as a TV dial shape. The E Line name was connected to New York’s E subway line, which carried commuters toward Manhattan’s business district. The modern 34mm reissue brought that idea back in November 2024 with a stainless-steel case, an acrylic crystal and a Japanese automatic movement. The new watch is better described as a larger update inspired by that reissue rather than a strict recreation. Its 38mm stainless-steel ...
WatchRider
Fossil Spider-Man vs. Hulk Limited-Edition Automatic Watches: Great Packaging, But Is It a Hit?
If your inner 90s kid has a soft spot for comic books and mechanical watches, Fossil’s latest release might catch your eye. The brand has launched a new Marvel collection featuring two of the most recognizable heroes on the roster: Spider-Man and The Incredible Hulk. The Incredible Hulk Edition: Loud and Green The Hulk watch makes a big entrance. Coming in at a chunky 45mm, it features a stainless steel case with the green giant literally bursting through the open-worked dial. Fossil leaned heavily into the classic green and purple color palette, carrying those shades through to the silicone and nylon strap. It’s bold, it’s loud, and it honestly looks like something Bruce Banner would accidentally break during a temper tantrum. The Spider-Man Edition: Caught in a Web? On the other side of the ring, we have the Spider-Man edition. This one takes inspiration from the darker 1990s comic-book era, featuring a 42mm black stainless steel case. It has a gradient dial with dimensional webbing stretching across the crystal and down onto the leather strap. However, I have a bone to pick with this one. While I appreciate the stealthy, moody vibe, I think the Spider-Man model is missing a bezel with interesting details. Looking at the smooth black case, I just feel like something is missing in terms of overall design. A textured bezel or some web-engraved details around the edge would have really tied the whole look together. Right now, it feels just a little too quiet...
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: An Alpina-Gruen Techni-Quadron, A Universal Genève "Eric Clapton," A Cartier "Bebe Guillotine," And More
You're halfway through August, Baller. August. The mind positively reels that yesterday saw the first pre-season NFL games, and soon enough even pope-themed hats and baseball games will be in the rearview, and we'll be pulling coats from closets (for those of us in the northern latitudes, anyway). Scorekeeping from last week—the Zodiac Poor Man's Heuer sells tomorrow, the Seiko 7018 passed, and the JLC Master Calendar Meteorite is still available, as is the Patek 5000R. For those who want to know more about the 5000, I strongly encourage you to read this phenomenal article by Edouard Henn on Collectability about the model, which I would have linked last week had I been bright enough to know it existed. Strays Photo courtesy of Interencheres. This Tissot Antimagnetique is worth a serious look, even though it's missing its second hand. Certainly, we'll all be missing plenty of original parts when we're as old as the watch (also, as cool as the model is, it's not so precious that its value would be dinged too much by sourcing a close-enough replacement). If that Harwood from last week's strays got your attention, here's another lovely one. Cartier Pashas have never quickened my pulse, but man oh man, this one's got its hooks in me. Solid gold Polerouter? Solid gold Polerouter. Speaking of gold, this Gubelin is both a) nothing all that special and b) impossibly beautiful, and if those gold offerings still aren't enough for you, fine, here's a Patek 3800/1 from 1995 that come...