Hodinkee
Auctions: Our Favorite Independent Watches Up For Grabs At Next Week's Auctions In Geneva
F.P. Journe unique pieces, De Bethune prototypes, and so much more.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute was a phenomenal success. Whether that was due to the influx of luscious, colourful dials or the honouring of its 1930s heritage, there was just something about those models that struck a chord with modern audiences. Now, instead of placing safe bets and expanding their colour ranges further, Jaeger-LeCoultre have reached … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Chichibu Whisky: The Japanese Version Of Pappy Van Winkle – Reprise
Fans of Japanese whisky will be all too aware that the better offerings are extremely hard to find. Once a curiosity, then mainstream, and more recently highly awarded and much sought after (okay, now subject to a feeding frenzy), the stuff is as rare as an honest politician. So grab whatever you can whenever you can!
Quill & Pad
Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? – Reprise
Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Caliber 3235? Find out right here!
Quill & Pad
My Top 6 Independent Watches From The Upcoming October 29 Ineichen Auction ‘Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons’ (With Videos Of The Watches)
“Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons" is the title of the upcoming Ineichen two-part watch auction on October 29 and December 3, 2022, and it’s a title that attracted Ian Skellern's attention. There are 50 watches in the auction, a nice mix of both big and independent brands, so it’s well worth scrolling through the online catelogue, especially if money is burning a hole in your wallet because you can’t find a retailer with stock.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Hold the Phone! Richard Mille Released An Emoji Watch
The new RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley makes us 😀 (but the price is 🥴).
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portugeiser Chronograph IW371620 is a near-perfect warm weather watch
The IWC Portugieser collection is rooted in both class and utility. It was an elegant solution, originally presented in 1939, due to demand for a marine-deck chronometer experience that could be translated into a wristwatch. It was oversized for its time – a rather sporty characteristic – but still every bit as elegant as its … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portugeiser Chronograph IW371620 is a near-perfect warm weather watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Record Heritage Chronograph
Longines is best known amongst watch enthusiasts for the Heritage collection of vintage remakes. The brand’s other offerings don’t usually enjoy the same level of attention – though the recent Master 190th Anniversary is an exception – so Longines is now adding some vintage flavour into its other lines. The brand’s latest is a mashup of its COSC-certified Record line and the Heritage collection. Unsurprisingly retro with a black gilt dial, the Record Heritage is the first chronograph in the Record collection, up to now comprised entirely of time-and-date chronometers. Initial thoughts Longines’ vintage-inspired chronographs are mostly appealing but Record Heritage still stands out because the brand hasn’t done too many with a black gilt dial. Looking both sporty and elegant, such dials are a favourite amongst collectors when it comes to vintage chronographs, and the look works just as well on a modern-day remake. That also means the Record Heritage is the most eye-catching watch in the Record collection, which was quite mundane until now. And unlike some past remakes that were too chunky, the Record Heritage has modest dimensions that vintage watch enthusiasts will appreciate. The case has good proportions overall and is just 40 mm wide, thought it is slightly thick due to the movement inside. More importantly, the dial has no date window to detract from its vintage aesthetics. Admittedly, the Record Heritage, like all Longines remakes, is neither origin...
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Horology Forum 8 New York By Dubai Watch Week
GaryG represented Quill & Pad at the 2022 DWW Horology Forum in New York (and he took a few favorite watches with him). Here's his take on the weekend event with lots of photos.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic
The Omega Speedmaster is certainly deserving of being called an icon. I won’t bore you with its historical provenance, nor the space-dwelling efforts of the Professional – I’m sure you’ve heard it all. The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is what today is all about. While it still incorporates lots of vintage-inspired touches, the Speedmaster ’57 takes … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Omega Speedmaster ’57 is a funtastic take on a classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love
A collaboration between Bamford and Romaric André of seconde/seconde/ feels just perfect, doesn’t it? Bamford made a name for himself by “vandalising” sought-after Rolex models in his signature aqua and black, while seconde/seconde/is renowned for subverting the smallest details of a watch in the most irreverent way possible. Now the pair have finally come together to … ContinuedThe post Up yours! From Bamford and seconde/seconde/, with love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Avant-Garde Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong
After looking at some of the highlights of independent watchmaking and unorthodox sports watches at Sotheby’s upcoming sale in Hong Kong, our final instalment covering notable lots is all about avant-garde complications – most of which are far more affordable than the original retail prices suggest. Naturally the selection is by big-ticket mega watches such as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, but it includes several more creative and intriguing watches that aren’t widely known. Amongst them are a pair of Harry Winstons with exceptionally complex reinterpretations of the tourbillon, along with a Ulysse Nardin featuring a pulley-operated retrograde hand. Important Watches I starts at 10:00 am (GMT +8) on October 5, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2171: Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tri-Axial Tourbillon Best know for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, Girard-Perregaux (GP) counts far more complex iterations of the tourbillon amongst its offerings, including this tri-axial tourbillon. Though launched in 2014, the tri-axial tourbillon remains the most complicated tourbillon from GP. It consists of two nested tourbillon carriages with two different axes of rotation, which are then mounted onto a third rotating track that adds another dimension of rotation, resulting in the triple axis motion. Unsurprisingly, the tourbillon assembly is extremely complicated – it consists of almost 150 parts – and takes ...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Longines Master Collection 190th Anniversary
Longines hasn’t launched too many watches this year, but it certainly unveiled a hit with the Master Collection 190th Anniversary. Based on the standard (and somewhat mundane) Master automatic, the anniversary edition sticks to a resolutely classical design but executes the dial in a surprisingly elaborate manner. The grained dial has deeply-engraved hour numerals that seem to be hand engraving at a glance, but are naturally done by machine given the affordability of the watch. Combined with the high-tech ETA calibre within, the Master anniversary offers a lot of watch for relatively little money – we explain why. Initial thoughts The Master anniversary struck me as a watch that is easily appealing when I first saw photos. Perhaps too easily appealing, because the design is a combination of familiar, likeable elements. But the dial seemed to be done unusually well, so I thought it was worth a second look. I wasn’t disappointed with the watch in the metal. The design is indeed a mix of details that are widely used elsewhere, but the execution is interesting enough – and the price sufficiently low – to make the Master anniversary an unexpectedly compelling watch. The fact that the Master anniversary is this compelling is testament to the importance of the dial. Everything else about it is identical to the standard 40 mm model. Even at arm’s length the engraved hour numerals are obvious and instantly give the watch the appearance of something fancier (and more exp...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic
Imagine you’re a watch brand. If you had a 20 year old watch model in your catalogue, what would you do? How would you breathe new life into it so that both fans of the brand, and those you’re trying to attract, feel moved? This is not an easy task and it is one that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Test your limits with the new Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN
Mühle-Glashütte aren’t a brand that most people are very familiar with, but the German brand is always full of surprises at every turn. The S.A.R. Rescue-Timer is a staple of their tool watch collection, boasting seafaring capability alongside a sophisticated, retro-futuristic case shape. Now, after 20 years of its use by the German Maritime Search … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Mühle-Glashütte S.A.R. Mission-Timer TITAN appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The TAG Heuer Formula 1 offers bright, colourful retro fun
You’ve just watched Alain Prost win the first of his four Formula 1 championships, yet your colourful little Swatch that’s been all the rage recently doesn’t quite satisfy your racing enthusiast heart. Naturally, TAG Heuer come to your rescue with their array of funky, plastic-bezelled and fibreglass-cased Formula 1 pieces just the following year. The … ContinuedThe post The TAG Heuer Formula 1 offers bright, colourful retro fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Latest Timex X Todd Snyder Collab Is Twice As Nice
Another heritage-inspired collab that ain't half bad.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The Cartier Santos Is Still One Hell Of A Watch
A modern Santos de Cartier with a glimmer of gold.
Time+Tide
Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true
Driving gloves and a racing watch. It’s a combination that gets the blood flowing of any watch collector who dreams of being Steve McQueen in Le Mans or Paul Newman in his actual day to day life. Even I’ll admit the image of slowly tightening your gloves before accelerating off the starting line comes to mind … ContinuedThe post Racing watch owners rejoice: Dents driving gloves are a dream come true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor Moon Phase for Ladies
A compact take on the signature Panerai watch that made its debut in 2016, the Luminor Due is essentially a scaled-down version of the military-inspired original, which allows it to wear easily on smaller wrists. To date, the Luminor Due has remained minimalist, making do without complications save for a date display. But now Panerai gone for something slightly more elaborate with the Luminor Due Luna that has a small seconds and moon phase display featuring a solid-gold moon disc. Initial thoughts I like the compact size of the Due, as well as its more formal styling that allows it to double as a dress watch. Although the original, full-size Luminor is a clean, almost elegant design, its massive size and stark aesthetics means it can only be a military-style watch. The Due, on the other hand, manages to preserve the outline of the original Luminor while being modestly elegant. For that reason, the new Luna is an appealing watch. At just 38 mm wide, it is clearly more wearable, while the engraved, solid-gold moon gives it a bit of sparkle. And the all-gold model comes along with a mother of pearl dial, making it even more luxe. Interestingly, the Luminor Due is largely targeted at female clientele, but models have a masculine aesthetic. That continues with the Luna, which is available in steel with a metallic blue dial, a combination leaves it looking very much like a conventional men’s watch. The dial design is largely classical Panerai, although the proportions seem a...
SJX Watches
Book Review: MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years
MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. By Suzanne Wong and William Massena. La Martinière/Abrams; CHF198 for M.A.D. Gallery edition; US$170 for standard edition. To celebrate its 15 years – from 2005 to 2020 – of making extraordinary watches, MB&F; commissioned a 312-page book, MB&F; – The First Fifteen Years. In its short foreword, MB&F; founder Maximilian Büsser states he did not want a biography since they are “only written at the end of a journey”. Instead, he puts forward the rhetorical question: developing 18 calibres for over 160 products over the period “deserves to be documented, right?” He adds “hundreds of artisans, engineers and watchmakers” came along for the ride and “this is the story I love to tell”. He describes the tome as a catalogue raisonné, adding that it is something “never been done for a watch brand; a world first in the watchmaking industry!” Defined by the New York Public Library, a catalogue raisonné in the visual arts serves as an important tool not just to establish an artist’s oeuvre, and thus record history, but also to aid in authentication by cataloguing all the known works of an artist. The New York Public Library also adds “Essay(s) on the artist” and “Critical assessments and remarks” as desirable content in such a publication. All the watches and all the friends The main part of the book is such a catalogue of 254 pages, divided into three sections: “Horological Machines”, “Legacy Machines”, ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Minase Horizon 2.0 is striking and utterly distinct
Minase are such a distinct brand in the marketplace, fitting into the incredibly specific niche of high value luxury. Their watches aren’t cheap by any stretch, but for the level of artisanal expertise and production quality, you could spend twice as much on a more established brand and not get close. The Minase Horizon 2.0 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase Horizon 2.0 is striking and utterly distinct appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Winning Formula: 5 of the coolest vintage watches in Formula 1
The 2022 Formula 1 season is back after the summer break, and we here at Time + Tide couldn’t be more stoked. This is a season fraught with intrigue, from McLaren cutting loose favourite Aussie son Daniel Ricciardo, to his replacement, young gun and fellow countryman Oscar Piastri sliding into Ricciardo’s seat for his inaugural … ContinuedThe post Winning Formula: 5 of the coolest vintage watches in Formula 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary
While it isn’t common knowledge, Longines now 190 years old, making it the longest-established of the seven biggest brands in Swiss watchmaking, besting even its sister company Omega. Historically known for its top-quality chronographs and time-only chronometers, Longines has unsurprisingly delved into its archives to mark the anniversary. The brand has just taken the wraps off the Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a three-hand wristwatch with an unusually elaborate dial for a Longines. And as expected for a commemorative model, it is available not only as a regular production model in steel, but also also a pricier limited edition in yellow or rose gold. The steel version with blued steel hands is an affordable US$2,400 Initial thoughts With compact proportions and an elegantly detailed dial, the Master 190th Anniversary blends various elements drawn from watches of the mid 20th century, giving it an easy appeal. That said, the aesthetics of the Master anniversary are not exactly original – it does bring to mind a variety of other watches. While it’s definitely a vintage-style watch, the Master anniversary is not a reissue – a feat for Longines, a brand that already has several dozen reissues in its catalogue. I find the dial of the new Master more attractive than most of the actual remakes in Longines’ Heritage collection. Those watches typically have good fit and finish, but the anniversary Master is a marked improvement and enhanced by flourishes lik...
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock
We’ve covered some pretty strange watches here on Time+Tide, even a bunch which don’t tell the time, but it’s rare that we discuss something that doesn’t physically exist. The Doomsday Clock is a concept and a symbol which has been referenced across plenty of media forms - from 2 Minutes to Midnight by Iron Maiden … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Insight: The Last Pilot’s Watch – Tutima’s Military Chronograph
Pilot’s watches, and specifically military-inspired pilot’s watches, are a pillar of the modern, luxury watch industry. Dozens of brands, notably IWC, Breitling, Bell & Ross, Bremont, and Yema, have made military aviation a core theme of their image. So it’s somewhat ironic that today’s elite military pilots don’t wear mechanical watches in the cockpit. A recent survey of pilots at MCAS Miramar, the airbase once home to the prestigious “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” programme – better known as TOPGUN – revealed that not a single pilot was wearing a mechanical watch. Instead, military pilots increasingly wear smartwatches designed specifically for aviators like the Garmin D2 that can monitor oxygen levels and act as a backup navigation system. Modern pilot’s watches made by luxury brands are more like “fan fiction”; a designer’s dream of what might have been. But this wasn’t always the case. Mechanical watches were once state-of-the-art technology and vital instruments for navigators and pilots before being rendered obsolete by quartz technology. This is the story of how the urgency of the Cold War gave the humble balance wheel one last chance to patrol the skies. The jet-shaped counterweight on the IWC Top Gun SFTI calls to mind the airplane-tipped chronograph minutes hand of Cold War-era pilot’s watches like the Tutima 798 A brief history of the pilot’s watch Pilot’s watches have been around for almost as long as there have been p...
Quill & Pad
Watches And Wonders 2022 Panel On Sustainable Innovations: Interesting Information On The Most Important Subject In Today’s Luxury Industry (Video)
A panel discussing sustainable innovations may sound quite boring, but when Elizabeth Doerr watched this panel that ran during Watches and Wonders 2022 after the fact, she was fascinated. And she thinks you might be too.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty
The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design. The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Dispatch: We Spent A Night At The Audemars Piguet Hotel (Which Is Not Really Called That)
Technically, people, it's called the Hôtel de Horlogers. Either way, feel free to scatter my ashes here when I am gone.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Rescue Chronograph in Ice Blue
A common argument against mechanical watches is that they don’t actually have much practical function in a 21st century society. The time can be read with atomic accuracy on a smartphone, and professional divers will almost always choose a modern dive computer over an analogue watch when their life is on the line. The Ball … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Roadmaster Rescue Chronograph in Ice Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.