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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics? Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2021

What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics?

Kim Jong Un is the leader of North Korea and understandably has a lot on his plate. From United States offers to meet and discuss his nuclear program to the issue of food running low throughout his kingdom, he doesn’t have the time to slowly and carefully select his watch every morning, so he wears … ContinuedThe post What does Kim Jong Un’s watch tell us about how his lifespan and global politics? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Robert Downey Jr.’s Very Own Urwerk UR-105 SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-105 Best known Jun 21, 2021

Auction Watch: Robert Downey Jr.’s Very Own Urwerk UR-105

Best known for playing Iron Man, Robert Downey Jr. has a penchant for Urwerk’s avant-garde timepieces. In fact, the actor has sported several Urwerk watches in recent years, including an UR-110 RG in Spider-Man Homecoming and an UR-105 CT in Avengers: Endgame. The watches worn by Mr Downey were subsequently sold to benefit charity, raising over US$700,000. Now the watch worn by Mr Downey during the production of Avengers: Endgame, the UR-105 TA “Raging Gold” RDJ, will go under the hammer, with proceeds once again going to charity. Robert Downey Jr. with Yacine Sar, Urwerk’s longtime head of marketing and communications Urwerk doesn’t pay for product placements, and the “RDJ” watches came about from a request by Mr Downey himself. Believing the watches were a perfect fit for Tony Stark, Mr Downey asked for a UR-110 in rose gold during the filming of Spiderman: Homecoming, which turned out to be the first of several. The UR-105 CT worn by Mr Downey playing Tony Stark in Avengers: Endgame And the UR-111C worn during the premiere of Avengers: Endgame, shown here on the owner’s wrist Like the UR-110 RG that started the relationship, the final “RDJ” Urwerk is once again a combination of rose gold and black-coated titanium. A limited edition of 22 pieces launched in 2016, the UR-105 TA “Raging Gold” tells the time with the brand’s trademark wandering hours display, comprising four hour discs on a carousel along with a minute scale on the lower edge o...

RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone Time+Tide
Jun 18, 2021

RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone

How could a mechanical wristwatch be more modern than an smartwatch? As any high school debater will tell you, it depends how you define your terms, but that is exactly the question Jason Fried, the Founder & CEO at Basecamp, asked in a recent blog post. His argument? Well, it all boils down to how … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why this tech CEO thinks his watch is more modern than his smartphone appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors Time+Tide
Jun 14, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors

Editor’s note:  Recently I spoke to a former salesman at a high-end Australian watch retailer. He told me that his store didn’t have a “passive waiting list” where you’re rewarded for patiently queuing up. In fact, to disoblige customers of that notion, the shop preferred a more pointedly ambiguous term: “the expression of interest list”. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Hype and high prices are killing it for watch collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow Time+Tide
Grand Seiko blue snow You don’t Jun 10, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow

You don’t hear about watch scams very often. So when the inside story of a fiendish attempt recently emerged, we interviewed the gentleman who almost became the victim. Gautaman Senivasan is a Singapore watch collector and trader who invited a prospective buyer into his home to inspect some watches he was selling. What happened next … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: How to avoid getting scammed when you sell your watch and Grand Seiko blue snow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vintage Watch Snobbery – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe had ever created – Jun 6, 2021

Vintage Watch Snobbery – Reprise

Standing before What Makes Me Tick's eyes was the most perfect of God’s creatures, a wonderful mix of Audrey Hepburn and Penelope Cruz. He thought his heart had skipped a beat, and he heard the chimes of every single minute repeater Patek Philippe had ever created – all chiming at exactly the same time! Six months later the gentle creature and he were married. This extraordinary story reflects the marvelous world of vintage watches: finding the rare bird, linking it to a story, and never letting it go.

LVMH founder Bernard Arnault declared world’s richest man (but what watch does he wear?) Time+Tide
Jun 2, 2021

LVMH founder Bernard Arnault declared world’s richest man (but what watch does he wear?)

If you were to guess who the world’s richest men were, your mind would probably wander to tech CEOs and Russian oligarchs, all of which would be reasonable assumptions. This month, however, the tides of wealth have changed with LVMH founder, CEO, and executive chairman Bernard Arnault rising to No.1 on the rich list. Edging … ContinuedThe post LVMH founder Bernard Arnault declared world’s richest man (but what watch does he wear?) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Professional Watch Journalists Reveal What Makes Them Tick: WATCH-ing Out  (Video) Quill & Pad
Jun 2, 2021

Professional Watch Journalists Reveal What Makes Them Tick: WATCH-ing Out  (Video)

Many professsional watch journalists may or may not have loved watches when they first started writing about them. But attitudes and personal tastes transform over time, so that some journalists who started in another field may come to love watches more than they ever thought possible. And four of them feature in this Instagram Live video. The overriding question answered is what makes individuals like us decide on what we do, say, buy, collect, and, above all, write?

TRADING FACES: Why I swapped a birth year Rolex Explorer and Ming 27.01 for my grail watch… Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer May 29, 2021

TRADING FACES: Why I swapped a birth year Rolex Explorer and Ming 27.01 for my grail watch…

Early on when I joined the Time+Tide team, I wrote a story that detailed how I got my Rolex Submariner. As both a watch collector and journalist, I felt the subject would resonate and, as that became my most read story ever, it would seem I was right. Just to recap: as a 27-year-old, I … ContinuedThe post TRADING FACES: Why I swapped a birth year Rolex Explorer and Ming 27.01 for my grail watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Watch Nerd’s 7 Favorite Mechanical ‘Digital’ Watches – Reprise Quill & Pad
May 29, 2021

A Watch Nerd’s 7 Favorite Mechanical ‘Digital’ Watches – Reprise

It will come as no surprise to anyone who has read Joshua's pieces in the past that he likes a good jump hour mechanism. There is just something about that instantaneous change driven entirely by mechanical means that fascinates him. And yet not all “digital” watches require the use of jump hours and minutes; some don’t even use a jump at all, yet still read digitally. Here, he breaks down a list of his seven (plus change) favorite “digital” watches.

Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham Time+Tide
May 28, 2021

Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham

There’s nothing worse than having something stolen. You discover your possession isn’t where you left it. Self-doubt creeps in and you feel like you’re going crazy. You search everywhere in case it’s moved, with the growing feeling that you must have forgotten where you actually put it… That’s exactly the feeling football player Jesse Lingard … ContinuedThe post Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet May 26, 2021

Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age

Within the hip-hop community the prevalence of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Richard Mille is abundant. In a scene where competitive flair and one-upmanship is a key component, many rappers’ initial step into watches is to buy “buss-down” watches – whether iced out by the factory or aftermarket. But as this market matures, what we … ContinuedThe post Like fine wine, Cardi B’s watch collection is becoming more refined with age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is it okay to wear a diamond-encrusted watch to tie your hair back? Time+Tide
May 25, 2021

Is it okay to wear a diamond-encrusted watch to tie your hair back?

Human creativity truly knows almost no bounds. Want proof? Check out this guy wearing a completely diamond encrusted watch as a scrunchie in the club, neatly pulling back his impressive mane of dreadlocks. Really, given the almost endless number of products specifically designed to manage hair, using an iced-out wristwatch is genuinely thinking outside the … ContinuedThe post Is it okay to wear a diamond-encrusted watch to tie your hair back? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Perpétuel: A Destination For Watch Lovers In Dubai Offering Cool, Accessible Limited Editions Quill & Pad
May 21, 2021

Perpétuel: A Destination For Watch Lovers In Dubai Offering Cool, Accessible Limited Editions

There’s something new in Dubai. Something with the power and ability to bring people of the watch community together. And those who might just want to be part of the watch community. And, of course, those who are just looking for good watches. Perpétuel, co-founded by Melika Yazdjerdi and Hamdan Alhudaidi, offers new experiences and limited edition watches for Middle East collectors and visitors alike.

Auction Watch: Record-Setting Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 World Time SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 1415 World Time May 21, 2021

Auction Watch: Record-Setting Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 World Time

A frequent topic of news headlines recently is the US$11 billion tax bill faced by the Lee family that controls Samsung. South Korea’s 60% inheritance tax is the highest in the rich world, resulting in the gargantuan tax assessment after the death of Lee Kun-hee, the former chairman of Samsung. The late Lee was a reticent but prodigious collector of art, automobiles, and also watches – all of which are either being sold or donated to help cover the bill. According to the Financial Times, Lee amassed 23,000 works of art, including paintings by Basquiat, Dalí, Monet and Picasso. Valued at over US$2 billion, the art collection will be donated to various museums in South Korea to offset some of the taxes. Christie’s mega auction Comprised of several hundred wrist- and pocket watches, Lee’s timepiece collection was consigned to Christie’s, according to several industry insiders. The first watches from the collection will be sold on May 22 in Hong Kong at a sale led by Christie’s head of watches in Asia, Alexandre Bigler. Amongst the highlights of the collection is the unique Patek Philippe Ref. 1415 HU world time in platinum that once held the record for the most expensive watch ever when it sold for 6.6 million Swiss francs at Antiquorum’s Geneva auction in April 2002. Alexandre Bigler of Christie’s While the identities of the buyers of recent record-setting watches is often unknown except to a handful of well-connected individuals (the buyer of the US$31-mil...

Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead? Time+Tide
May 18, 2021

Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead?

Last Thursday, Christies sold Picasso’s Woman Sitting by a Window in New York for USD$103.4M, the bidding lasting a full 19 minutes. This was the fifth Picasso to sell for more than USD$100M and a sign that the Málaga-born artist is as popular as ever. But while demand for his artwork is white-hot, a Picasso watch … ContinuedThe post Can’t afford a $100m Picasso painting? What about his watch instead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 ‘First Series’ and Independents at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 2499 ‘First Series’ May 10, 2021

Auction Watch: Patek Philippe Ref. 2499 ‘First Series’ and Independents at Phillips Hong Kong

As the Geneva auctions are almost concluded – with the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time having sold for US$7.83 million – it’s on to the Hong Kong sales that’ll take place in a few weeks. At Phillips’ Hong Kong auction, the top lot is, unsurprisingly, a complicated Patek Philippe. Specifically, a first-series ref. 2499 in yellow gold, which is not exceptionally uncommon in itself, but this example has a rare Wenger case and a valuable piece of paper – the original certificate from 1956. The sale also encompasses another ref. 2499 with its original certificate, a third series in yellow gold that’s more accessibly priced, along with an interesting selection of independent watchmaking. Notably, the line up includes a Harry Winston Opus 1 Tourbillon by F.P. Journe, along with an Opus V by Urwerk. The Phillips Hong Kong watch auction will happen on June 5 and 6, and the full catalogue is available online at Phillips.com. 2499 duo Most of the first-series ref. 2499s had cases made by Emile Vichet, a Geneva case maker that supplied the cases for the first two years of the model’s production, making about 10 cases in yellow gold and about four in pink. Patek Philippe then turned to Ed. Wenger, another Geneva case maker run by brothers Edouard and Andre, for the rest of the first-series, as well as all subsequent series until 1982 when Patek Philippe starting making its own cases. Only about 30 yellow gold cases were made by Wenger for the first-serie...

RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch Time+Tide
May 9, 2021

RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch

Like I say in this video, separating what’s “actually” new versus what a brand tells you is new, and what’s truly innovative from the marketing spin is practically a daily task in watch media. Do. Not. Believe. The. Press. Releases. So, when you ask four hardened hacks from the field for four watches that were … ContinuedThe post RJ from Fratello is offering a Limited Edition Speedmaster Fountain Pen for your vote on 2021’s most innovative watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey Time+Tide
May 8, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey

Editor’s Note: I put this list together last August in the hope that I could help people avoid the sort of costly mistakes I’ve made during my watch collecting journey.  Ten years ago there were fairly minimal digital resources for watch enthusiasts to dig into, but today the problem, if anything, is that there is … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five mistakes I made along my watch collecting journey appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” Time+Tide
Omega May 7, 2021

Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man”

Action heroes are Hollywood’s idealised version of traditional masculinity. There is therefore a powerful effect when big-screen tough guys sport a nice watch as they kick ass, dodge bullets and save the world. With the James Bond franchise, the Broccoli family created paid partnerships with companies like Omega to be featured in Bond’s wardrobe. But … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham sports his own IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceretanium® in “Wrath of Man” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar May 7, 2021

Highlights: Phillips Geneva Watch Auction

Kicking off the spring-season watch auctions, the upcoming Phillips sale in Geneva takes place over the weekend of May 8 and 9. Led by the Patek Philippe ref. 2523 cloisonné world time “Eurasia”, the 236-lot catalogue has clearly been curated to cater to the taste of contemporary collectors. We round up a few interesting lots from the sale, including a pair of obscure watches by famed independent watchmakers – the Harry Winston Opus 1 by F.P. Journe, and the Roger W. Smith Series 1 “Onely” for Theo Fennell. Perhaps as unusual, but this time from an establishment name, is the Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Perpetual Calendar. And then there’s the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 570 with a two-tone dial and Breguet numerals, which is simply gorgeous. The Geneva Watch Auction: XIII takes place on May 8 (for lots 1-130) and May 9 (lots 131-236). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available online. Lots 57 and 89 – Cartier Tortue monopoussoir chronographs Enjoying a resurgent interest in its elegant but original designs, bringing to mind its 1990s heyday at auction, Cartier is now frequently encountered in watch auctions. And the two present examples of the Tortue are each interesting, but even more notable side by side in the same same. They are the same watch – the original from 1930 and the remake some seven decades on. Tortue, French for” turtle”, is a century-old design attributed to Cartier, having made its debut in 1912. It’s ...

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet 4 watches May 6, 2021

From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy

If you’ve ever come across the singer and songwriter James Blake, you’ll know he’s got one of the best voices in the business and goes about his work with the detached cool of a guy that knows it. His unique style of ambient electronic music has won him critical acclaim and a global fan set, … ContinuedThe post From Grand Seiko to Audemars Piguet, 4 watches that show musician James Blake is a serious watch guy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Obituary: Gino Cukrowicz, Watch Retailer Extraordinaire (1959-2021) SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet May 6, 2021

Obituary: Gino Cukrowicz, Watch Retailer Extraordinaire (1959-2021)

A bon vivant from an era where many watch retailers were personalities, Gino Cukrowicz passed away in Singapore on May 6, 2021, just shy of his 62nd birthday. Gino was proprietor of Ginotti, a watch store in Belgium that he cofounded with Thierry Maldague in 1987, but perhaps best known as one of the partners in F.P. Journe. He’s pictured above with his wife Radhi and Francois-Paul Journe. A notable individual in both style and substance, Gino was always dressed in colours and eye-catching shoes, along with a large diamond stud on each year. Though Gino only owned a single watch store, his had an influence in the business, much like his peer Laurent Picciotto of Paris, because of his experience and taste. As a measure of his stature, Gino’s funeral service in Singapore included tributes from Francois-Henry Bennahmias and Patrick Pruniaux, the chief executives of Audemars Piguet and Ulysse Nardin respectively, as well as Masaki Saito, the longtime head of sales at F.P. Journe, and Jean-Claude Biver. Gino with Thierry Maldague outside Ginotti (left), and pictured in the 1990s. Photo – Shawn Mehta I last spoke with Gino at length in 2018, when he was in Singapore along with Francois-Paul Journe. Having arrived early for the interview with Mr Journe, I spent the time having a fascinating conversation with Gino, who had on his wrist an F.P. Journe Ruthenium Tourbillon with a platinum bracelet. He was frank, his outsized passion for independent watchmakers obvious, and hi...

Dubai Watch Week Returns In 2021: Mark Your Calendars For November 24-28, 2021! Quill & Pad
May 5, 2021

Dubai Watch Week Returns In 2021: Mark Your Calendars For November 24-28, 2021!

Following the uncertainty of the COVID-19 pandemic and the isolating feel of digital fairs, the prospect of a bright, sunny, warm, and welcoming in-person Dubai Watch Week warms our hearts immensely! And we are in for a real treat this time around for more reasons than simply celebrating a return to normality and the ability to touch and feel new watches and meet with old and new friends as Elizabeth Doerr explains.