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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

Fratello On Air: Sébastien Chaulmontet On Sellita, Albishorn, And Vintage Watches Fratello
Albishorn Oct 27, 2026

Fratello On Air: Sébastien Chaulmontet On Sellita, Albishorn, And Vintage Watches

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, I am alone in the driver’s seat while Mike enjoys his much-deserved birthday time off. Join us in wishing a happy (belated) birthday to “Mike Stockton from London, England.” Instead, we invited our friend Sébastien Chaulmontet, Sellita’s head of innovation and the man behind […] Visit Fratello On Air: Sébastien Chaulmontet On Sellita, Albishorn, And Vintage Watches to read the full article.

This Rolex Submariner 1680 Belonged To An Oscar-Winning Hollywood Sound Engineer Fratello
Rolex Submariner 1680 Belonged Oct 27, 2026

This Rolex Submariner 1680 Belonged To An Oscar-Winning Hollywood Sound Engineer

A few weeks ago, this vintage Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680 landed on my desk. The owner, a low-profile but dedicated Rolex collector, came across it several years ago during one of his hunts. A prime example of provenance, this watch has quite an intriguing backstory. Rolex Submariner Date ref. 1680 This Rolex Submariner Date […] Visit This Rolex Submariner 1680 Belonged To An Oscar-Winning Hollywood Sound Engineer to read the full article.

Hands On: Rolex Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar Moon Phase in Steel SJX Watches
Rolex Ref 6062 Triple Calendar Oct 27, 2026

Hands On: Rolex Ref. 6062 Triple Calendar Moon Phase in Steel

Monaco Legend Auctions is closing the year with one of its biggest auctions to date, with one of the top lots being a stellar Rolex ref. 6062 Oyster triple calendar in steel with gold-tone indices. An eighty year-old watch that feels original and honest, this ref. 6062 is only on its second owner in all that time, adding to its appeal. Already a rare watch in itself, this specific ref. 6062 stands out for its condition. It appears to have been worn carefully over the decades, while also having avoided being facelifted or enhanced. And of course this is an Oyster, meaning the case is water resistant, which no doubtlessly helped to preserve the dial. As a result, this ref. 6062 possesses its original details, including the shallow engraving on the case back and twin textures on the dial. Initial thoughts Though overshadowed by sports watches in the last decade, the triple calendar has long been one of the most desirable vintage Rolex models. And Rolex recently revived the concept with the Perpetual Padellone, which, despite the name, actually inspired by the ref. 6062 Oyster rather than the ref. 8171 “Padellone”. The ref. 6062 coming up in Monaco Legend’s auction at month’s end is one of the best examples to hit the block in some time. It’s in steel, which makes it more valuable than the equivalent gold model. And this has  known, traceable provenance – just two owners in some 80 years – and as a result of that, the condition is original, crisp, and appealing....

Audemars Piguet Launches CPO Platform SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Launches CPO Platform Audemars Oct 26, 2026

Audemars Piguet Launches CPO Platform

Audemars Piguet has finally launched its long-rumoured certified pre-owned (CPO) programme, The Watch Keepers. The digital platform acts as an intermediary between buyers and sellers, giving consignors the choice of selling at a fixed price or through an auction. Audemars Piguet is neither a buyer nor the seller, instead it is the facilitator. The move comes at a time when the secondary market for luxury watches is becoming increasingly professionalised, with brands taking a more active role through CPO. As noted earlier this year, the opportunity goes beyond earning revenue from watches already sold: it gives brands greater control over the pre-owned buying experience previously left to dealers and auction houses. A unique CPO model Unlike Rolex, which leverages its global network of authorised dealers to handle pricing and customer interactions for its own CPO programme, Audemars Piguet’s direct sales model means that it has to take on a bigger role. As a result, The Watch Keepers becomes the intermediary between the seller and the buyer, registering both parties and validating the authenticity of the watch. The Watch Keepers also handles all photography, and prepares the listings with verified technical details and a condition assessment. This takes much of the preparation off the seller’s hands and should give buyers greater confidence in the watch’s specifications and condition. It also helps level the playing field between sellers with different levels of exper...

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - With Diamonds And A Bracelet Hodinkee
Brew ers playing old-school small Oct 26, 2026

Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Calendar - With Diamonds And A Bracelet

"If you build it, they will come." It's the age-old quote about watchmaking, wrapped somewhat curiously in a sentimental movie about baseball, if I'm interpreting things right. A. Lange & Söhne is finally having its overdue moment among collectors for doing what it's always done: making beautiful, mechanically impressive watches with a more traditional, high-touch approach. Sticking with the baseball analogy, it's the Milwaukee Brewers playing old-school small ball and getting into the World Series. Nostalgia hits hard, and the one constant through all the years, Ray, has been watchmaking—or something like that. And yet, when you get down to it, something has been missing from the Lange lineup—a gap for true deep-cut collectors who begged for a certain something that disappeared from the catalog in the late 2000s. People yearned for bracelets, with the word Wellendorff hanging in the air long after the brand ended its partnership with the Pforzheim jewelry maker. When the Lange-loving Hodinkee team saw the new Datograph Perpetual on bracelet, in all its heavy glory, it was an impressive culmination of past and present. "It reminds of us of all that once was good and it could be again." “Wellendorff” Bracelets and the Secondary Market I was recently reminded that my first experience with an A. Lange & Söhne was one on a Wellendorff bracelet. I was attending a local RedBar meet-up when a noted collector of the brand walked up wearing a Datograph Perpetual in platin...

Striking Improvement: Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 SJX Watches
Armin Strom s Minute Repeater Resonance Oct 26, 2026

Striking Improvement: Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59

Armin Strom’s Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition doesn’t just chime the current time, it chimes the best time (12:59) to show off its Westminster Carillon of four hammers chiming on four gongs. The watch combines the clever chiming complication with a clever chronometric innovation: a pair of sprung balances connected by an elastic “resonance clutch spring”, one of the brand’s signature invention. And all of that somehow squeezed into a water-resistant, 42 mm case that is slimmer than most chronographs. Initial thoughts Armin Strom’s repeater probably deserves an award for the brand’s most improved product. Its predecessor was 47.7 mm in diameter and 16.1 mm tall, while this is a wearable 42 mm and only 11.7 mm thick. That makes it slimmer than a Rolex Daytona — though most of the height is borne by the mid-case, making the watch look thicker than it is. It’s also somehow more water resistant, up to 50 m from an already solid 30 m, yet it costs just 2% more at the current retail price. That is before mentioning the Westminster Carillon, demonstration-chiming mode, and the more attractive design. The “demonstration mode”, which allows the watch to chime 12:59 on demand regardless of the current time, is well executed and suits the job of the repeater in the 21st century, which goes beyond simply telling time in the dark. Furthermore, the sound is good — pleasant and audible — but wristwatch minute repeaters have improved dramatically in ...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Flusso Vs. Tissot PRX Fratello
Tissot PRX Howdy folks! Oct 25, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Flusso Vs. Tissot PRX

Howdy, folks! And welcome back to another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, we’re putting up two watches that are similar in many ways, despite being produced in countries separated by just under 10,000 kilometers of land (and a little bit of sea). Both of them draw inspiration from 1970s design. They feature integrated bracelets and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Orient Flusso Vs. Tissot PRX to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Leica’s Latest Collaboration, Fujifilm’s Future Growth, and an Oura Ring Upgrade Worn & Wound
Oct 24, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Leica’s Latest Collaboration, Fujifilm’s Future Growth, and an Oura Ring Upgrade

Leica Q3 43 Formula 1 Edition It’s no secret that we’re big fans of Leica around these parts and, while I’ve never seen a single race, I think there’s something – dare I say it? – sexy about Formula 1. Combining the two into a new collaboration feels very much up my alley. The first release from the new Leica and Formula 1 partnership is a special-edition Q3 43. Carbon fiber appears on the wireless-charging handgrip, thumb rest and soft-release button, while the body uses a black Microvelour covering inspired by racing steering wheels. Red accents show up on the controls, and the F1 logo appears on both the top plate and lens cap. A co-branded rope strap is included as well. Under the hood, it’s still the Q3 43, with its 60MP full-frame sensor and fixed 43mm f/2 lens. Leica has also created an exclusive Formula 1 Leica Look through its FOTOS app, adding more contrast and saturation for shooting around the track and paddock. The Leica Q3 43 Formula 1 Edition is available now via Leica for the low, low price of $9,950. Fujifilm Expands Instax Production Oh, God, to be a teenager in the early 2000s and discovering Polaroids, 500 Days of Summer and Urban Outfitters. What a time to be ALIVE! While I’ve made a tiny little career for myself by posting photos online, I miss the tactility and charm of a proper instant photo. Well, it seems I’m not alone. Fujifilm just announced another $19 million investment in Instax film production in Japan, with new production ...

Atelier Mephalie Makes A Comeback With Three In-House Minute Repeaters From Shanghai Fratello
Oct 24, 2026

Atelier Mephalie Makes A Comeback With Three In-House Minute Repeaters From Shanghai

If you were planning to revive a sleeping watchmaking brand from the late 19th century, where would you start? Most rational folks would probably source a batch of reliable off-the-shelf Swiss or Japanese automatic movements, drop them into a neatly polished case, and spend the rest of the quarter on marketing. But Lin Xiaolin isn’t […] Visit Atelier Mephalie Makes A Comeback With Three In-House Minute Repeaters From Shanghai to read the full article.

Zenith Sets Sights on Higher Ground with Layoffs SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s ascent into fine Oct 24, 2026

Zenith Sets Sights on Higher Ground with Layoffs

After several years in the red and challenging market conditions predicted, Zenith is seeking higher ground by focusing on high-end watchmaking, eliminating about 200 jobs in the process. As reported by Swiss newspaper Le Temps, chief executive Benoit de Clerk broke the news to employees on Thursday, citing the strong Franc, US tariffs, and weak demand from the Middle East and Asia. Zenith’s pivot was foreshadowed by the excellent GFJ line launched last year, and comes in the wake of Jean Arnault taking charge of the LVMH’s watch brands, namely Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Hublot, after having engineered Louis Vuitton’s ascent into fine watchmaking. The middle market, which Zenith flees, is particularly brutal – expensive to play in and competitive. Zenith is not the only one to abandon it, Mr de Clerk also referenced the closure of Montblanc’s Le Locle factory, as that brand too shifts focus upmarket. Zenith’s greatest strengths, its mature, capable manufacturing base and wide distribution, are oversized for the brand’s production volume. Unable to feed this beast or put it to work, Zenith will be cutting about a hundred jobs, roughly half of its workforce, in Le Locle, and a further hundred in retail and distribution. In 2024, LVMH announced plans to grow Zenith’s Le Locle manufacture to supply other group brands with movements. Hublot had been using Zenith movements for a decade already, and LVMH envisioned an entire catalog of Zenith-made “in-house” move...

(Hands-On) Does Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Revive Accessible Dress Watchmaking? WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil s Toccata Heritage Revive Oct 23, 2026

(Hands-On) Does Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage Revive Accessible Dress Watchmaking?

Raymond Weil’s Toccata Heritage wears its inspiration on its sleeve, but is the flash backed up by substance? Let’s find out! What We Love: Elegant, flowing case Beautiful movement Incredible price point What We Don’t: Soft but fragile strap Power reserve feels low compared to on-paper Is luxury ever attainable? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The definition of luxury is, for the most part, anyone’s guess. Maybe it’s the hundred-million-dollar, feature-laden superyacht crewed by Playboy models, or perhaps it’s something as mundane as a carton of eggs at the grocery store. I find that luxury is relative to one’s financial circumstances: a want that’s just slightly out of reach, not entirely necessary to one’s sanity or physical wellbeing, but something whose acquisition feels like reaching a new level in life. This is entirely different from a pipe dream, such as the aforementioned superyacht, but the watch world often treats the two as one and the same. Luxury watches aren’t often considered truly luxurious until they cross a certain price threshold, usually somewhere in the high four or five figures, if not six. But ‘accessible luxury’ isn’t quite the oxymoron the industry might have you believe, and Raymond Weil is proof. Since 1976, the independent watchmaker has sought to make traditional elegance more attainable, offering classically styled timepieces at comparatively acce...

eBay Finds: a Vintage Hamilton Masterpiece, Funky Finds from Seiko and Timex, and More Worn & Wound
Hamilton Masterpiece Funky Finds from Oct 23, 2026

eBay Finds: a Vintage Hamilton Masterpiece, Funky Finds from Seiko and Timex, and More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Hamilton Masterpiece  First up this week is this super clean and sharp vintage Hamilton Masterpiece dress watch. The 33mm yellow gold filled case is crisp and unpolished, with stylish slim lugs. The caseback is engraved with a presentation award for 25 years of service to the Presque Isle company in 1980. The silver dial looks pristine, with applied gold stick markers and lume filled gold dauphine hands. Time only with no date, just clean, simple goodness. The winding crown is original and signed with the Hamilton “H” logo. The manual wind Hamilton caliber 832 movement is clean and runs well per the seller. The watch comes on a stylish leather strap that looks great on it. View auction here Vintage Seiko 5 Actus  Here’s a nice chunky vintage Seiko 5 Actus sporty watch. The 41mm round case is unpolished with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The dial is a silver/champagne color with cool hour markers and unusual hands. They are both steel with black and lume inserts, but the hour hand is really broad, which gives it a somewhat unique look. There is of course the ubiquitous day/date window at three o’clock. The small crown is recessed into the side of the broad...

Introducing: Clemence Photic MKII Swiss Edition (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Oct 23, 2026

Introducing: Clemence Photic MKII Swiss Edition (Live Pics)

What We Know Clemence, the English microbrand, has launched a new limited-edition take on its incredibly good (and deservedly popular) Photic dive watch. The main difference between the new LE and the standard Photic MKII diver (which Jason Heaton spent time with earlier this year) is that it uses a Swiss Soprod M100 movement instead of the Miyota movements Clemence has used previously. While the new Clemence is largely identical to its non-limited-edition sibling, other changes include a fully luminous bezel with a numbered layout and a new color Clemence calls “Atoll Blue.” Clemence is deservedly known for its excellent use of color, and the addition of a new color to that palette is notable for a brand that has been deliberate in its rollout of new models. Like the Photic MKII, this new watch measures 38.5mm across (though the overhanging bezel measures closer to 39mm) and is about 46.5mm lug-to-lug. It’s also thin, at just 10.5mm thick (the switch to the Soprod movement hasn’t led to any dimensional changes). The watch comes on a three-link bracelet, features a micro-adjust in the clasp, and the Soprod M100 movement is regulated to tremendous accuracy (+/- 4 seconds a day). The Photic MKII Swiss Edition is priced at £949—or about $1,275—so it commands a slight premium of £599 (about £350) over the standard Photic. The Photic MKII Swiss Edition is limited to 25 pieces. What We Think Do I even have to say it? I absolutely adore this watch. The Clemence Pho...

Business News: LVMH-Owned Zenith Is Restructuring In Major Reset As Brand Plans Job Cuts And Production Drop In Shift To High-End Market Hodinkee
Zenith Oct 23, 2026

Business News: LVMH-Owned Zenith Is Restructuring In Major Reset As Brand Plans Job Cuts And Production Drop In Shift To High-End Market

Zenith, the storied Swiss brand founded more than a century ago and known for its El Primero high-beat chronograph movement, will undergo major restructuring, forcing the LVMH-owned company to significantly reduce its workforce and scale back production and distribution, with plans to reposition the marque as a high-horology, low-volume watchmaker.  The Zenith overhaul follows years of financial losses by the brand, founded by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 1865. Chief Executive Officer Benoit De Clerck addressed employees at the company's headquarters this week, announcing the restructuring and warning that the company could eliminate as many as 100 jobs, or about half the workforce at the manufacture. To complete the reorganization and reposition the brand by 2029, the company may also eliminate another 100 positions, including the watch brand's entire international team. A Zenith watchmaker.  Management and executives are now in a formal "consultation process" with employees over the next three weeks to negotiate the terms of the restructuring and job cuts. Unia, the Swiss employees' trade union representing workers at the manufacturer, will meet with employees next week and join management in the consultation process, according to people familiar with the matter who spoke on condition of anonymity because they were not permitted to comment publicly.  "We confirm that a staff consultation process was initiated today [Thursday] concerning a proposed ...

Bring a Loupe: A Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M, A Ulysse Nardin 'Big Aviator' Pilot's Watch, An Eterna "Majetek," And Much More Hodinkee
Jaeger-LeCoultre Oct 23, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M, A Ulysse Nardin 'Big Aviator' Pilot's Watch, An Eterna "Majetek," And Much More

There's no way to keep up, Baller. It's true. There's too much to do and too little time, and somehow it's another Friday, and before we relax together and look at some interesting watches available over the next week, let's take some comfort in the fact that, here in the States, two small-market teams are squaring off in the World Series. Incredibly, the Brewers ranked 19th in total payroll for 2026, while the Rays ranked 25th. I bring this up only to note that anything is possible, and huge congrats to fans of both teams. Sure seems like it's gonna be an amazing series. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Boucheron remains available, the Breguet sells today, the IWC Aquatimer passed at auction, and the LIP Paul Newman sold for €820. Strays Photo courtesy of Drouot. Mr Clymer, Mr Wind, and Mr Dunne raised a good point that Jaeger-LeCoultre is still underrated, and while this one's unlikely to be a $1M watch, I can think of a few DuoPlans that look more fetching. For those still seeking a slightly under-the-radar integrated-bracelet sport watch from the 70s and 80s, may I present this Omega 'Alveoles.' Here's a vintage anonymous beauty with an 18k gold case and running seconds at the top rather than the bottom of the dial, and, from the same auction, if there's a better-looking vintage regulator than this Eterna on auction anywhere in the coming week, I haven't seen it. Certina DS-3 Super PH1000M Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. The upcoming Dr Crott auction goes down on ...

Born to rave: Tudor gets into techno, AP gets into CPO, and Eberhard & Co. opens its museum doors Time+Tide
Tudor gets into techno AP Oct 23, 2026

Born to rave: Tudor gets into techno, AP gets into CPO, and Eberhard & Co. opens its museum doors

These days it seems like the watch industry never really goes into rest mode. There are so many announcements and novelties each week. We’ll save the new releases for our upcoming Last Week in Watches, so right now I want to share some more under-the-radar bits of watch news revealed this week. Tudor signs Charlotte de … Continued

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic Louis Vuitton’s Oct 23, 2026

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Monterey Ceramic

Louis Vuitton’s second instalment of its 1980s revival model is the Monterey Ceramic. Styled like its predecessor – both share a similar inspiration – the new Monterey is simpler in execution and consequently more accessible, if not quite affordable. Instead of 18k gold, the case is now ceramic, in either black or green, with a steel case back. That’s matched with a white lacquer dial that replaces the fired enamel of the gold model. A regular production model, the Monterey Ceramic nonetheless retains the proprietary movement from La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) that is a good example of high-quality industrial-haute horlogerie. Initial thoughts The original Monterey, or more accurately, montre, which is French for “watch”, was a distinctive and surprisingly timeless design by Italian architect Gae Aulenti. But it was not exactly a high-end watch. Today’s recreation, in contrast, is just that. While last year’s Monterey in 18k gold was pricey, the new Monterey dials back on the fancy materials, which reduces the retail price by about half. Considering the high-end Geneva-made calibre inside, this makes the Monterey competitive with traditional watchmakers. The look of the Monterey, however, is not traditional. The style was unorthodox when Aulenti penned it in 1988, and continues to be so now. The unusual case construction gives it a bulbous appearance. Though the case is only 11 mm high, it looks and feels taller, but that is arguably part of the charm. The Mon...

Auctions: Ten Watches I Actually Care About This Fall Auction Season Hodinkee
Casio nal watch buyer So Oct 22, 2026

Auctions: Ten Watches I Actually Care About This Fall Auction Season

If you were in NYC last week for watch week, there was a chance I saw you there. Yes, I actually showed my face in public – and it kinda felt good? Yeah, I think it did. And that got me thinking – what if I actually paid attention to the auctions again, like I used to! Not just from a professional standpoint, but from my perspective as a watch lover and occasional watch buyer. So I opened up some catalogs and started digging – and here are the ten watches I'd actually spend my own money on coming up for sale over the coming weeks – and don't worry, our actual auction savant, Mark, will be here over the next few days to give a much more in-depth take on what's happening this season. 1. The Earliest Known Lange 1, Ever A closed caseback Lange 1, without its caseback, reveals movement number....10. Did I mention it comes with a full set, dated to January of 1995, and with its original sales receipt? Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. Photo courtesy of Auktionen Dr. Crott. You guys know about closed caseback Lange 1s – I love 'em. I've owned 'em. But I've never owned, or even heard of, a Lange 1 this early. Over at Dr. Crott, who also has a great PLM in platinum and from whom I sourced my Steel Lange 1 over ten years ago, and who has a history of great Lange watches – there is a remarkably early L1. How early? Movement number 10. Beyond that, it comes with paperwork dating it to January 1995, and an original handwritten...

Introducing: Breitling Navitimer B09 And B02 Cosmonaute 41mm Chronographs Hodinkee
Breitling Navitimer B09 Oct 22, 2026

Introducing: Breitling Navitimer B09 And B02 Cosmonaute 41mm Chronographs

What We Know In 1952, Breitling released the Navitimer as a tool of necessity for pilots who needed to perform advanced calculations in the cockpit. A decade later, it was adapted for space flight, and the Cosmonaute was born. For many, myself included, this watch is peak, emblematic Breitling, yet until now, the manual-wind versions closest to those originals were mostly limited editions. Now both will join the mainline collection. The Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 and Navitimer B02 Chronograph 41 Cosmonaute both come in 41mm stainless steel cases with reverse-panda dials, a bidirectional bezel, and a circular slide rule. The B09 is available with a black or blue dial, white rehaut, and subdials, while the Cosmonaute has a black dial with white subdials. Both feature the Twin Jet logo, first introduced in 1957, set in gold, which really pops against the monochromatic dials. The hands, numerals, and indexes are filled with Super-LumiNova. Breitling is well aware of proportions here. It eschews the date window on the B09, and Breitling says that, along with the manual-wind caliber, this gives it a slimmer case profile. Both cases measure 13mm thick and 47 mm lug-to-lug, with a cambered sapphire crystal that is anti-reflective on both sides, a screwed-in sapphire caseback, a non-screw-down crown, and 30 meters of water resistance. Each watch draws on a different chapter of Navitimer history. The B09 is modeled on the 1960s Navitimer worn by Jim Clark and Graham Hill, racing d...

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2026

Atelier de Chronométrie’s ADC16 Elevates a Classic

Atelier de Chronométrie, the Barcelona-based independent, introduces its first dual-register chronograph, the ADC16, following up on its lauded three-register rattrapantes with a unique gilt-dialled commission powered by a heavily upgraded Valjoux 23. The historical calibre has been reimagined with a new bridge design, assortment, an instantaneous minutes counter, and impressive decoration. And anything that isn’t to your liking can be changed, as customisation is what Atelier de Chronométrie does best. Initial thoughts Atelier de Chronométrie (AdC) specialises in bespoke, vintage-inspired watches that are both handsome and substantively hand made. The brand’s debut chronograph, the AdC8 Split-Seconds Chronograph launched in 2020, was sensational, and its first simple chronograph is nearly as ambitious. The practice of refinishing decades-old chronograph movements is nothing new — at times it seems like there’s an almost endless supply of new-old-stock Valjoux chronographs. But AdC substantially transforms the historical architecture to a degree that is genuinely uncommon, crafting its own redesigned bridges, making its own balance wheel, and replacing the stock semi-instantaneous minutes counter with an instantaneous one. Of course, these upgrades come at a cost. With a starting price of €140,000, AdC’s dual-register chronograph costs significantly more than equivalents from the likes of Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne, which come equipped with more in...