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Results for The Holy Trinity (Patek, AP, Vacheron)

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Visiting Roventa-Henex SJX Watches
Longines May 28, 2026

Visiting Roventa-Henex

Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Rolex Zerograph inspiration May 28, 2026

Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics)

What We Know We've featured a lot of Albishorn on Hodinkee recently, and for good reason. It's a fan-favorite brand, and, as our former head of limited editions said, it's hard to find someone who knows how to handle the technical side of watches, the design side, and pricing, all so well. The new Type X-Graph is no exception. If you want more info on the design inspiration behind the brand, you can read one of my previous stories here. But while other launches trend more vintage, this one feels a bit more modern. The Rolex "Zerograph" inspiration is obvious, with the slightly smaller dial and oversized bezel (that overhangs the case). This time, the dial pushes the look into modernity, with a semi-translucent fumé grey dial that lets you catch small glimpses of the skeletonized ALB04 M movement. But at the same time, Alibshorn was able to maintain the pebbled texture of some of their other dials. It's not a fully smoked sapphire like a Patek 5316 or a Lange Lumen, but at the price, it strikes a balance between creativity and affordability. Add the green-emission Super-LumiNova on the PVD-coated bi-directionally rotating steel bezel, and it's a cool monochrome finish. You'll notice that the watch is a chronograph with a 30-minute counter at the lower left and running seconds at the right, but right above the logo is the chronograph running indicator. It switches from red while running to white when stopped. The design of this is patented as part of the brand's modificatio...

Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray SJX Watches
May 28, 2026

Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray

Specialising in affordable, “imaginary vintage” chronographs, Albishorn has added a twist to its military-inspired Type 10. At a distance, the Type X-Graph resembles yet another pilot’s chronograph with a black, textured dial, but up close it reveals a translucent polycarbonate dial that provides a peek at the skeletonised base plate of the movement. Inspired by 1930s acrylic-covered timepieces, the polycarbonate dial is in a gradient-grey tint, giving it a darker finish towards the edges. While the movement is mechanically identical to its predecessor, the calibre has been skeletonised to maximise the “X-ray” effect. Initial thoughts At first glance, the X-Graph appears little different from its predecessors, but up close it is noticeably more interesting. It’s essentially a twist on a skeleton watch – it’s clearly a no-frills, military-style watch, but with a see-through dial that reveals the open-worked movement. The X-Ray is still “imaginary vintage”, but with more imagination, underlining Albishorn founder Sebastien Chaulmontet’s unique take on watches that combines a historical perspective and  unusual twists. This is born from his keen interest in vintage chronographs – he wrote a book on the subject – while also being head of research and development at Sellita (Albishorn is a side project, akin to a hobby). The brand’s catalogue now encompasses many variations of the single-button chronograph, but the X-Graph stands out as one of the m...

Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
F.P. Journe May 27, 2026

Highlights: Notable Independents at Phillips Hong Kong

Phillips’ spring auction season wraps up with The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. As is now the norm, independent watchmakers have carved out a significant section of the catalogue including the usual suspects from F.P. Journe and Philippe Dufour, as well as rare showings from under-the-radar makers like Oscillon and Yosuke Sekiguchi. Lot 878 – Oscillon L’instant de Vérité Despite how hot the indie segment has become, Oscillon has largely stayed under the radar, perhaps due to its intensely cerebral nature, or because the brand only produces about five watches per year. The duo behind the brand, Dominique Buser and Cyrano Devanthey, are collectors of pre-computerised watchmaking machines. Their collection is so extensive that they can produce all movement parts – save for the jewels and shock protection – under their own roof using these machines. Even putting this context aside, the watches themselves are still mechanically interesting. The most striking detail is the bowtie-shaped balance, which is harder to poise and less aerodynamic than a conventional annular balance, but looks much cooler. L’instant de Vérité uses an unusual tensator constant-force spring. To explain this, consider a tape measure. The force required to pull more length from a tape measure doesn’t noticeably increase regardless of the length already paid out. Now imagine hooking the end of the tape to a pulley, so that turning the pulley (winding) pulls tape out, and ...

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date Hodinkee
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Flyback May 27, 2026

Introducing: H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date

What We Know H. Moser & Cie. introduced its first flyback chronograph in 2020 with the Streamliner, a cushion-cased sports watch powered by the HMC 902—an automatic movement with central elapsed-seconds and elapsed-minutes hands and no sub-dials. That watch won the Chronograph Watch Prize at the GPHG and gave rise to a full collection. The next step was always the Endeavour case, and today it's here. The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date takes the core architecture of the HMC 902, removes the automatic winding system, and uses the freed space to add a second time zone and date—all without any subdials The Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date comes in a 42mm stainless steel case with chronograph pushers at 10 and 2 o'clock and a screw-down crown at 4 o'clock. The dial is a turquoise fumé with a sunburst pattern. The central disc—which carries the second time zone—is in Blackor fumé, also with a sunburst pattern. Around the perimeter, a tachymeter sits on the flange alongside a white minute track that handles both elapsed seconds and minutes for the chronograph. Hands are leaf-shaped and filled with Super-LumiNova, as is the tip of the dual-time arrow. Uniting three complications—a flyback chronograph, a second time zone, and a date display—the watch does away with traditional subdials entirely. Instead, all indications are centralized: a red hand tracks chronograph seconds, a rhodium-plated hand shows elapsed minutes, and the second time zon...

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Flyback May 27, 2026

Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date

Since the launch of the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph in 2020, H. Moser & Cie. has been closely associated with one of the most unconventional chronograph architectures in modern watchmaking, developed in collaboration with Agenhor, the Geneva-based complications specialist founded by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. MELB, the company of the Meylan family, which now owns H. Moser & […]

Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches Fratello
May 27, 2026

Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches

It is easy to get lost in the intricacies of extremely complicated watches when exploring the creations of our beloved Haute Horlogers. Sometimes, though, you just want that level of quality and refinement applied to simpler things. Maybe you have a taste for uncomplicated base models, but you appreciate the rarity and craft of Haute […] Visit Uncomplicated Haute Horlogerie: Some Of Our Favorite High-End Time-Only Watches to read the full article.

Introducing: Timex MK1 For J.Crew Hodinkee
Casio n May 26, 2026

Introducing: Timex MK1 For J.Crew

What We Know The day after Memorial Day brings the promise of warmer days, long summer nights, and backyard cookouts. Timex and J.Crew have decided to mark the occasion in a way that feels entirely right for the season—and perfect for us here at Hodinkee—with the release of the Timex MK1 for J.Crew. The MK1 is one of Timex's most storied models, originally rooted in military-inspired design. This version trades military-spec field watch utility for a leisurely day on the water. Housed in a 36mm gold-plated stainless steel case with a clean white dial, crisp Arabic numerals, and a printed rail track, the star of the show is unmistakably the small figure swimming across the dial. That figure, true anglers will recognize it immediately, is a brook trout—rendered from an original watercolor by J.Crew's in-house artist. It's a matter-of-fact detail that is unexpected, and works. With the trout and enlarged numbers taking up precious dial real estate, branding is limited. The Timex logo is on the front, the J.Crew logo on the caseback. Built for long days on the water, the MK1 for J.Crew offers 50m of water resistance and sits behind an acrylic crystal. It runs on a quartz movement, with an 18mm lug width and a neatly braided dark brown leather strap that has the signs of it only getting better with time. The Timex MK1 for J.Crew launches May 28th at $198 and is available at Timex.com, JCrew.com, and select J.Crew retail locations. What We Think What more could you ask for...

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object Hodinkee
Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object What May 26, 2026

Introducing: Louis Vuitton Unity Time Object

What We Know For the last ten years, Louis Vuitton has worked with UNICEF, the United Nations Children's Fund, to support humanitarian and developmental aid for children worldwide. To mark the tenth anniversary of the partnership, the house is releasing a one-of-a-kind time object—a soccer ball reimagined as a clock—to be auctioned exclusively at Sotheby's from June 9 to 18, with the hammer price going directly to UNICEF. The piece brings together La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Swiss movement maker L'Épée 1839, and the house's trunkmaking heritage, all in the shape of a soccer ball, timed perfectly ahead of this year's World Cup. With Louis Vuitton's F1 partnership now in its second year, the brand has been planting its flag deeper in the world of sport. Having a soccer ball serve as the vessel for this milestone feels like a natural extension of that direction, and there's something fitting about the spherical choice of form to commemorate this occasion. At the center of the piece, time is told through a sculpted golden steel dome that forms the upper half of the clock. Two rotating cylinders handle the work: one tracks the hours, the other the minutes. The minute track is engraved with Louis Vuitton's Monogram motif and flowers, and the top of the cylinder carries the "Louis Vuitton Paris" signature. Moving outward, the hour and minute apertures are rimmed with diamonds—144 white for the hours, 120 black for the minutes, totaling 1.03 carats. Inside, L'...

A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication Emerges SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 26, 2026

A Unique A. Lange & Söhne Grand Complication Emerges

Being the serious-minded German brand that it is, A. Lange & Söhne almost never makes unique or one-off watches. But just before Watches & Wonders opened its doors last month, Lange presented the Grand Complication in white gold with a black enamel dial to its lucky, large-wristed owner. First launched in 2013, the Grand Complication was a watch of many superlatives – the most complicated, most expensive, and most biggest Lange wristwatch ever made. Six of the 50 mm originals were made, all identical and all resembling a pocket watch with lugs. The new Grand Complication, on the other hand, feels more contemporary, but it remains the most complicated, expensive, and biggest Lange wristwatch ever made. The unique Grand Complication. Image – Owner Initial thoughts Lange’s “grand comp” was launched at Watches & Wonders when it was still a Hong Kong event. I was surprised by the watch, and while impressed by the technical achievement, it felt derivative. As it was then, the Grand Complication was essentially a replica, right down to the white enamel dial. The new Grand Complication looks and feels like an entirely different watch. Made in-house like Lange’s recent enamel dials, the black champleve dial is striking and modern. The white gold case contributes equally to the fresh look that departs the 19th century aesthetic. Image – Owner However, in a strange twist, the new case material leaves the brand logo along the dial flange even more obvious than before. T...

TAG Heuer Expands their Aquaracer Collection with Solargraph Powered Divers Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Expands their Aquaracer Collection May 25, 2026

TAG Heuer Expands their Aquaracer Collection with Solargraph Powered Divers

TAG Heuer has expanded its Aquaracer collection with the introduction of new Solargraph powered references in two case sizes. The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional Solargraph watches are straightforward dive watches that should have a large mass market appeal with a (relatively) low entry price and an appealing movement technology that is geared toward grab-and-go versatility. These aren’t necessarily the most enthusiast forward watches in TAG’s collection, but they make a lot of sense as a simple quartz watch to have ready for vacations or other travel in the summer months when you don’t want your watch to weigh too heavily on the mind.  In terms of marquee dive watches from large brands, the Aquaracer has a relatively short history, with the name first being used in 2004. For that reason, I think it’s sometimes an afterthought when it comes to Swiss dive watches from major brands, but it certainly has developed a niche of fans through the launch of interesting limited editions that have played with color and material over the years, and a design that doesn’t obviously trade on the look and feel of competitors from brands like Rolex, Tudor, and Omega. The Aquaracer has also always been pitched at a wide audience, with a variety of case sizes and variants that are meant to appeal to the masses. These new releases follow in that tradition.  First up is the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph in 40mm, which the brand has positioned as the “ultimate t...

Talking Watches: With Yoni Ben-Yehuda, Head Of Watches At Material Good Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet May 25, 2026

Talking Watches: With Yoni Ben-Yehuda, Head Of Watches At Material Good

Yoni Ben-Yehuda is a longtime pillar of the New York City watch collector scene, an original member of the Red Bar crew, and someone who earned his credibility the old-fashioned way: through genuine passion and years spent learning about and actively supporting watch enthusiasm. That foundation matters because it explains the trust he's built since, and quietly, almost invisibly, he has become the hand behind some of the most high-profile watch collections in the world. You've seen those wrists on Instagram and red carpets, and now we're thrilled to feature the collection of the man behind the scenes.  Today, as Head of Watches at Material Good — one of the most respected watch destinations in America — Yoni oversees sales across nine locations and a deep partnership with Audemars Piguet. But the role only makes sense when you understand where it comes from. His watch story starts in his teens with a gift from his mother that would foreshadow an impressive collection that is expressive, fun, and very specific.   As Yoni himself puts it, "watches are these forever objects in a disposable world," and you can see the progression of his life, his passions, and his depth in the space represented by his watches. In the above video, Yoni and Ben highlight several special watches from Yoni's collection. Here is the list in chronological order of appearance.  Alfred Hammel steel watch Audemars Piguet RA Ultra-Thin Self-Winding Tourbillon ref 25656 (on matching bracelet with...

WatchIt! Watch Fair To Return Next Month Fratello
May 24, 2026

WatchIt! Watch Fair To Return Next Month

The WatchIt! Watch Fair will return next month for its fifth edition, presented by 12&60. This one-day event brings watch lovers together in a friendly, relaxed setting. You can view, handle, discuss, and buy watches without pressure. More importantly, you can do it face-to-face with the people behind the brands. As a result, the atmosphere […] Visit WatchIt! Watch Fair To Return Next Month to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch Fratello
Tudor Monarch It’s Sunday morning May 24, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time to fire up the espresso machine and enjoy another heated watch battle. In this week’s showdown, Mike picked the new Tudor Monarch, while Jorg chose the King Seiko Vanac. The former was Tudor’s big release at Watches and Wonders 2026, and people seem to either love or hate […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Tudor Monarch to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Special All Diver Edition! Worn & Wound
Citizen CQ Crystron Diver  Welcome May 22, 2026

eBay Finds: Special All Diver Edition!

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Citizen CQ Crystron Diver  Welcome to the all-divers edition of eBay Finds! It’s not often I find one or two decent divers to bring you, but this week there is a cornucopia of divers. We’ll start off with this awesome vintage Citizen CQ Cryston diver. Yes, it’s quartz, but it’s a cool quartz watch! The smallish steel case is in nice shape, looking unpolished with sharp edges and nicely preserved crown guards protecting the unsigned crown. The elapsed time bezel insert is in good shape as well. The black dial is excellent, as are the unique hands. The hour hand has a paddle shape that really stands out. There is of course a day/date window at three, with a Kanji day wheel. The watch comes on the original rubber strap with original signed buckle, which is a rare find. No pictures of the quartz movement, but the watch runs well per the seller. Great vintage Citizen! View auction here Vintage Waltham Diver  Next up is this classic vintage 1960s Waltham diver. I’ve owned one of these before, and they are definitely well made. The steel case is excellent and unpolished, with crisp lugs and original brushed finish on the caseback. The seller doesn’t state the size, but it should ...