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Time+Tide
A smaller take on the British military-inspired field watch makes for a wonderful week on the wrist from Vertex.The post A mid-sized military watch from Vertex makes the M36 a touching tribute appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing from part I of the history of the equation of time. In the late 17th century, London’s clockmaking landscape experienced a remarkable surge of innovation and collaboration, fuelled by interactions among prominent horologists and the broader scientific community. Among this period’s leading figures were Christian Huygens and Robert Hooke, who made substantial strides in crafting clocks that could precisely display solar time without the need for cumbersome equation tables. This era marked the advent of the equation cam, a revolutionary mechanism designed to reconcile the disparities between solar time and mean time. Inspired by the analemma-a figure-eight pattern illustrating the Sun’s varying positions in the sky throughout the seasons-these mechanisms featured a distinctive mathematically calculated kidney-shaped cam, symbolising a pivotal step forward in horological precision and accuracy. At the heart of this innovation lies the cam and lever mechanism, an integral component of the invention. It comprises a shaft propelled by the clock’s mechanism, completing a full rotation annually. Affixed to this shaft is a meticulously crafted kidney-shaped cam, tailored precisely to match the annual fluctuations outlined by the equation. This cam engages with a follower and a connected lever, facilitating the seamless translation of its rotational motion into practical adjustments within the timepiece. Drawing of an equation pendulum by Ferdinand Berthoud (1...
Time+Tide
The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue introduces the fan-favourite colour into the anything-but-conventional collection.The post The Ulysse Nardin Freak One Navy Blue brings a crowd-favourite hue into the lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The year 1969 proved to be pivotal for Zenith. The manufacture introduced the El Primero automatic chronograph, which would become one of the most influential movements ever made. Besides that monumental feat, it also launched the formidable Defy collection that year. This sporty series of watches had an unprecedented design, with an octagonal case topped […]
Time+Tide
Thank you to everyone who attended, now is your last chance to sign up for VIP, early access to buy the 'Sundowner' before it goes on sale.The post Sundowner sales go live in 3 hours, here’s a recap of the live London launch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Angelus is a watchmaker that many younger enthusiasts likely regard as a newcomer to the scene but actually brings to the table a rich heritage going all the way back to 1891 — as a maker of watches as well as some of the industry’s most legendary movements. Angelus calibers were used, for example, in the earliest Panerai Radiomir watches from the 1940s. Based in Le Locle, Switzerland, the firm was one of the first watchmakers to adopt the two-pusher chronograph design that had first been explored by Breitling. Its ChronoDato model, launched in 1942, and its successor in 1948, the ChronoDatoLuxe, remain among the most legendary grails for vintage chronograph collectors. When Angelus resurfaced in 2015 — now owned by the prolific Swiss movement-maker La Joux-Perret, which is part of Japan’s Citizen Watch Group — the timepieces it chose to re-establish itself in the 21st-Century marketplace proved perplexing to many longtime collectors and armchair brand historians. Watches like the somewhat bizarre-looking, sci-fi-influenced U10 Tourbillon and the huge, skeletonized U50 Diver Tourbillon seemed to indicate that the revived Angelus brand was jettisoning much of its vintage appeal to explore more avant-garde frontiers. Starting in 2022, however, with the much-praised release of the ChronoDate models, heavily inspired by the 1942 ChronoDato, Angelus has signaled a renewed interest in mining its mid-century archives, particularly in its chronograph sweet spot. The ...
Quill & Pad
On the third cast, the nymph hits the water with a distinct plop and there is a sharp tug on the line. I instinctively set the hook, a glint of gold and brown breaks the surface. I have just caught my first wild trout.
Deployant
Jean-Marie Schaller continues to romance the stars with his latest creation for Louis Moinet - the Starman. A piece featuring hand painting and meteorite.
Monochrome
Our readers might remember reading about the fledgeling French brand Awake, which has taken the ancestral Vietnamese art of sanded natural lacquer and applied it to the dial of its first permanent collection, Son Mài. Inspired by the bright red colour of Remembrance Day poppies, Awake has produced a special Son Maì edition and will […]
Fratello
What better way to celebrate your 20th anniversary than by throwing a small party? No, even a tiny party is way too exuberant for Greubel Forsey, Haute Horlogerie manufacturer par excellence. That’s why the brand throws a nano party. And that’s big news because the Nano Foudroyante EWT is Greubel Forsey’s 10th “Invention Piece.” The […] Visit Monday Morning With Greubel Forsey’s 10th Fundamental Invention, The Nano Foudroyante EWT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Central to our comprehension of time is the intricate interplay between the celestial dance of heavenly bodies and the pursuit of accuracy. Throughout history, mankind’s perception and quantification of time has evolved with its interaction with the natural environment. From ancient times when the rhythm of the Sun governed daily existence to the modern day of standardised timekeeping ushered in by mechanical innovations, human ingenuity has been instrumental in shaping this odyssey. Unfolding within this tale is the rare horological complication, the equation of time, a captivating chapter in the ongoing saga of humanity’s temporal exploration. The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 with its kidney-shaped cam that governs the equation of time display. Image – Breguet Dawn of Timekeeping: Celestial Observations and Ancient Innovations The genesis of civilisation ushered in humanity’s bond with the cosmos, as early communities devotedly charted the celestial events that dictated the rhythm of their lives. This connection was not merely academic; the alternation of day and night, the moon’s phases, and the Sun’s shifting journey through the heavens were the foundation upon which the ancients built their methods of marking time. In civilisations like those of Mesopotamia, Egypt, and ancient China, a deep-seated knowledge of the heavens was crucial for survival. The predictable cycles of day and night governed the timing of essential activities such ...
Time+Tide
A new LE from the Dink, this time a classy dress watch from Chopard with a hunter caseback.The post Introducing the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition for Hodinkee appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The GPHG has just ended. And the jury and Academy has spoken. But from our POV, who should have won? Here our picks, and a comparison to the 6 who won.
Fratello
You know what they say: “Don’t meet your heroes. It will only disappoint you. The curtain will lift on your enamored illusions, and you will come out sadder and wiser, maybe even cynical.” So when Nacho asked me if I would be interested in doing a hands-on with a 65-year-old Rolex Submariner, I was apprehensive. […] Visit Grail Material: Spending Time With A 1959 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5508 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Combining a dive watch with a traveller’s function has become a classic over the years, offering immense versatility. At Bremont, this concept was personified for many years by the Supermarine S302 GMT Diver, but since the brand is currently restructuring its strategy and collection, many expected to see a new model occupying this specific niche. […]
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe’s 175th-anniversary collection contained a bumper crop of memorable models and the Ref. 5975 triple scale chronograph was the quirkiest.
Deployant
Blancpain has recently expanded its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe line with three new models, each a exemplary daily wearer for the man about town. These new additions include two time-only versions and a flyback chronograph, all housed in ceramic cases.
Fratello
As a fan of GMTs, I will take every opportunity to check out watches that feature my favorite complication. When the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT landed on my desk, I was intrigued. This remake of a rare 1970s watch combines a Super Compressor-styled case with a rotating internal 24-hour GMT bezel. Combined with the charming […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Will the mismanagement of this launch damage the brand irreparably, or does this become a footnote in Thierry Stern's tenure? The post Will the Cubitus be the final straw that will put Patek Philippe customers off for good? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Mark Alamares picks a theme and sticks with it. His collection consists of three sporty Seikos, but these are all JDM models that differ just slightly (well, sometimes more than slightly) from their counterparts available in the United States, and elsewhere. Collecting JDM Seiko is a rabbit hole within a rabbit hole, and Mark makes a compelling case for why diving into these slightly tougher to obtain Seikos is worth the additional effort. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The theme of my $5,000 trio is Neo-Vintage (late 1990’s to early 2000’s) JDM Titanium Seiko’s that cover the gambit of Air, Land, and Sea (prior service U.S. Marine, 2001-2011). While this theme may not be for everyone, there’s a certain level of difficulty in acquiring clean examples of these watches that I must say is extremely gratifying. Much more so than just crunching the numbers and hitting your targets on the new market. You’ll have to do some research, make some connections, and enjoy a lot of insightful back-and-forth while on the hunt for a trio like this. Think niche JDM watch dealers on Instagram. So, as great as the destination is, the journey is equally as satisfying. Yes, pricing may vary depending on many external factors but in reality, I’ve never had $5,000 burning-a-hole-in-my-pocket to the point where I had to get...
Worn & Wound
Black Friday Deals Live Now The More You Spend, the More You Save It’s that time - we’re kicking off our Black Friday Sale in the Windup Watch Shop with exciting deals and promotions to help you kick the holiday season into gear, including discounts on some products that never go on sale. As an added incentive, we’ve brought back our tiered discount system - the more you spend, the more you’ll save! As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. Black Friday Deals Live Now The More You Spend, the More You Save It’s that time - we’re kicking off our Black Friday Sale in the Windup Watch Shop with exciting deals and promotions to help you kick the holiday season into gear, including discounts on some products that never go on sale. As an added incentive, we’ve brought back our tiered discount system - the more you spend, the more you’ll save! As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Black Friday Deals Live Now In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker, founded Brellum in 2017. Unlike many new brands, they did not pursue crowdfunding but adopted a more traditional approach. The first model released by Brellum was the Duobox, which was covered by Worn & Wound here. Since then, we have reported on several other releases by the brand. However, despite this coverage and similar attention from other outlets, Brellum does not appear to have the same visibility or market presence as many competitors. That is the impression I have, at least. Since 2017, they have quietly expanded into multiple product lines, exhibiting strong and distinctive brand coherence. They have successfully established their brand identity in such a way that their models are instantly recognizable as Brellum watches. In an industry as prolific, diverse, and prone to imitation as ours, achieving a high level of brand consistency is more challenging than one might expect, particularly if your designs are conservative. However, their watches do possess some flair, and all feature high-grade chronometer-certified movements. For 2024, Brellum is introducing a smaller version of their most popular model, the Duobox, along with a new chronograph movement in their collection. Introducing the Duobox 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. This watch is essentially a 39mm version featuring subdials at the 3, 6, and 9 positions. Many consider this arrangement more aesthetically pleasing than the standard ETA/VJ7750 dial layo...
Time+Tide
The final Studio Underd0g Pizza Watch is a unique one, being auctioned off for charity with a best of both worlds dial.The post A Pizza Unique for those who can’t make up their mind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
This isn’t the first Belisar Chronograph Speedster from Union Glashütte, as models like the Limited Edition Electric Blue and Limited Edition Yellow were inspired by vintage German sports cars and rallies as well. The latest model by Union Glashütte features an asphalt grey dial with a red stripe, mimicking the colours of a specific Porsche […]
Time+Tide
Andrew was asked by the Financial Times what has been the driving force behind these new upstart brands in the industry.The post Andrew talks to the FT about the disruptive new faces of watchmaking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Back in April 2024, I had a chance to check out the olive-green version of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton. While that earlier release walked a fine line between a saturated green and warm gray, today’s new watch takes a stealthier black approach. But don’t let that fool you because the rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.
Fratello
Our Aussie friends at Time+Tide collaborated with TAG Heuer, resulting in a new version of the Aquaracer Solargraph. Style-wise, this is Time+Tide through and through. The Sundowner takes inspiration from the watch that has almost become synonymous with Time+Tide founder Andrew McUtchen, the Aquaracer Solargraph, and it pours on some Australian Outback sauce. Let’s have […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph × Time+Tide “Sundowner” to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2022, TAG Heuer introduced the Aquaracer Professional Solargraph, the brand’s first-ever solar-powered quartz model. This debut followed the release of the revamped Aquaracer Professional 200 series, featuring 40mm steel cases. The Solargraph retained the aesthetic and functional hallmarks of the Aquaracer line, quickly winning over TAG Heuer enthusiasts. Since its launch, several Solargraph variants […]
Time+Tide
The Aquaracer Solargraph 'Sundowner' is our tribute to Australian sunsets.The post Introducing the Time+Tide x TAG Heuer Aquaracer Solargraph ‘Sundowner’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
While widely known as a China-made movement, the Seagull ST-19 chronograph has always been well-accepted by the watch community. It looks good, it has a tried-and-tested architecture (well, of course, being a copy of an old Venus 175), it has a classic combo of column-wheel and horizontal clutch and, mostly, it made it possible to […]
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