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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Breguet has Oct 6, 2024

Business News: Gregory Kissling Appointed CEO of Breguet

Breguet has a new boss, Gregory Kissling, who started as chief executive at the beginning of October. Born in Neuchâtel – just like Abraham-Louis Breguet himself – Mr Kissling takes over one of the most storied brands in watchmaking. Although Breguet has ceded ground to its haute horlogerie competitors in recent years, the brand remains exceptional in terms of history and significance. Mr Kissling will no doubt seek to restore some of the brand’s glory. Appealing products will be key to that, and Mr Kissling has a strong track record. A micro-mechanical engineer by training, Mr Kissling began his career as a movement constructor at Cartier. He soon joined Omega as product manager in 2004, where he steadily rose through the ranks in product development. Two years ago Mr Kissling was named vice president of product at Omega, making him one of the most senior leaders of the company. Gregory Kissling outside the Breguet manufacture in Le Chenit Mr Kissling’s time in product development has seen Omega unveil watches that were well received by enthusiasts, particularly vintage-inspired Speedmaster models. Amongst the projects he was responsible for was the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321. He also worked on wider projects that spanned Swatch Group, including the development of proprietary precious metal alloys like Sedna and Moonshine gold. As the chief executive of Breguet, Mr Kissling reports to president Marc Hayek, who oversees the high-end brands owned by Swatch Group, na...

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGY040 And SBGW321 - A Pair Of Limited Editions For Europe Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGY040 Oct 5, 2024

Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGY040 And SBGW321 - A Pair Of Limited Editions For Europe

Meet the new Grand Seiko SBGY040 and SBGW321, a pair of limited-edition watches made specifically for the European market. Similar to most exclusive releases from the brand, these also gain inspiration from Japanese nature. Gardens, specifically ponds and the colorful koi that inhabit them, help define the dial artistry. Grand Seiko has mastered infusing the […] Visit Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGY040 And SBGW321 - A Pair Of Limited Editions For Europe to read the full article.

Out of Office: 12 Days and 3,500 Miles Through Scandinavia with the Straum Jan Mayen Worn & Wound
Oct 4, 2024

Out of Office: 12 Days and 3,500 Miles Through Scandinavia with the Straum Jan Mayen

In an out-of-place English pub with gin on tap and a stale cigarette smell clinging to everything, we sat down to look back at the epic adventure we had just completed. Twelve days and over 3,500 miles through four countries, narrated over walkie-talkies clipped to the seatbelts of our own individually rented European hatchbacks. Along the way, we saw jaw-dropping landscapes and unfamiliar wildlife, met some amazing people eager to share their culture and inspiration, and even ended up being detained during a thorough vehicle search that did nothing but ruin a birthday surprise. This trip, built on a flimsy framework rather than a solid plan, played out as many of my trips tend to, with hilarious calamity and tent pole moments that will plague the jokes of my inner circle for quite some time. This was a grand tour of two cousins separated by six months in age celebrating our entrance into a third decade on earth using our carefully selected kit to enhance our own Scandinavian Top Gear Special.  It all started roughly one year ago when I was asked if I would have a party to ring in 30, to which I replied, “oh, no, I am going to do a two-week tour of Scandinavia!” Right there, right off the cuff without any real prior thought, the seed was planted. As time ticked by and the date got closer and closer, the details started to come into view. I wanted to fly into Denmark, grab a vehicle, and drive up through Norway to the Arctic Circle, across Sweden and into Finland throu...

The best affordable transparent watches that easily show of their value proposition Time+Tide
Oct 4, 2024

The best affordable transparent watches that easily show of their value proposition

Transparent watches are often split into two categories – the cheap, plastic stuff that you find in the toy section or invisible paragons of crystal clarity, unattainable by mere mortals like you and I. And even though brands like Code41 and ArtyA have been making cool sapphire-cased watches with high-end movements more affordable recently, spending … ContinuedThe post The best affordable transparent watches that easily show of their value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Marathon OSAR-D - For The Love Of Legibility Fratello
Marathon Oct 4, 2024

Introducing: The Marathon OSAR-D - For The Love Of Legibility

Marathon Watch Company is well known for supplying several armed forces with tool watches since 1939. One of the most sought-after models is the SAR-D from the early 2000s. The Canadian brand now brings back an evolved version with the Marathon OSAR-D. The first thing to stand out? Those massive hour markers! Consider them a […] Visit Introducing: The Marathon OSAR-D - For The Love Of Legibility to read the full article.

#TBT A Trio Of Oddball Watches From A Former President Of Cartier - Ralph Destino Fratello
Ball Watch es From Oct 3, 2024

#TBT A Trio Of Oddball Watches From A Former President Of Cartier - Ralph Destino

The idea of “going round in circles” is often used as a synonym for not achieving anything. This is because, when moving in circles, you keep returning to the same point where you started, having made an effort to advance without actually achieving anything. But when it comes to watches, this is not necessarily a […] Visit #TBT A Trio Of Oddball Watches From A Former President Of Cartier - Ralph Destino to read the full article.

News – Now Official, LVMH and TAG Heuer Become Official Partner of Formula 1 for 10 Years Monochrome
TAG Heuer Become Official Partner Oct 2, 2024

News – Now Official, LVMH and TAG Heuer Become Official Partner of Formula 1 for 10 Years

While rumours had circulated for some time, the confirmation has now been made. As Formula 1 gears up to celebrate its 75th anniversary in 2025, there’s major news shaking up its sponsorship landscape. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury conglomerate, has officially signed on as a Global Partner of Formula 1 in a groundbreaking 10-year deal, […]

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling B01 Oct 2, 2024

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph

The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone.  When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional Oct 1, 2024

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional

On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01 Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Kollokium is Back with “Variant d” of the Projekt 01

The still somewhat mysterious Kollokium project is back with its latest release, a new variant in their first series, dubbed Projekt 01. The Kollokium drops this year have reminded us, for better or worse, of the limited edition releases that dominated the pandemic era of watch collecting. In other words, watches timed to a worldwide release window, which starts a frenzy and inevitably ends up in many being disappointed when they miss out on snagging one. It seemed like these happened a few times a month in 2020 and 2021, but this cycle has slowed down significantly as the watch industry has normalized a bit over the last few years. I think it’s too Kollokium’s credit, then, that they’re still able to gin up a level of excitement for their watches that is capable of leaving people in a state where they inevitably lash out via keyboard. It’s also worth noting that these watches are still genuinely scarce enough that when they pop up on auction sites or the pre-owned market, they tend to command a hefty premium.  All of this, of course, is secondary to the merits of the Projekt 01 as a watch, and I still believe that Kollokium is doing something that is pretty genuinely interesting at a price point (at retail) that feels approachable. The brand, you’ll remember, was founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, who collectively represent the business, design, and collecting sides of the community, with overlap across all three fo...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref 5738/1R Sep 30, 2024

Hands On: Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R with Chain-Link Bracelet

Patek Philippe’s new launches for 2024 included novel complications like the World Time Date ref. 5330G and a “salmon” face for the flagship perpetual calendar ref. 5236P, and also a watch that exemplifies formal simplicity, the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001. The new Golden Ellipse is a two-hander in the model’s largest size, but stands out for its bracelet. The only men’s watch in the current catalogue with an integrated bracelet that isn’t a Nautilus, the ref. 5738/1R has a “chain-style” bracelet made by Wellendorff, a German jeweller that has long supplied bracelets to a variety of watch brands. Initial thoughts The Ellipse is one of Patek Philippe’s trademark models but relatively under the radar, especially compared with its famous integrated-bracelet sports watch cousin designed in the same era. But the Ellipse has its appeal, particularly as a no-frills formal watch. Most commonly seen on a strap, the Ellipse feels strikingly different on a bracelet, although it is still easily recognisable. The gold bracelet evokes the mesh bracelets popular in the 1970s and gives the ref. 5738/1R a pronounced retro feel. The bracelet is finely wrought and supple. Up close, the bracelet also reveals a surprisingly intricate design that contrasts with the simplicity of the case. The fact that the bracelet is made by Wellendorff is both a strength and weakness. It has the flexibility of fine jewellery but also the open-ended clasp typical of a jewellery, instead o...

A Day Out With A. Lange & Söhne At The Concours Of Elegance Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 28, 2024

A Day Out With A. Lange & Söhne At The Concours Of Elegance

In late August, A. Lange & Söhne invited me to the Concours of Elegance at Hampton Court Palace, southwest of London. This was my third time attending this show and auction of rare classic cars, and this time had the best weather by far. Arriving early, we witnessed the opening parade of all the exceptional […] Visit A Day Out With A. Lange & Söhne At The Concours Of Elegance to read the full article.