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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGJ253 Nov 26, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial

There’s very little mystery left with Grand Seiko’s design strategy, especially with their Heritage collection. Often taking direct inspiration from natural scenes that surround the famous Studio Shizukuishi, the Grand Seiko artisans manifest the beauty of the world around them into dials that breathe life into the watch. For most of us who can’t even … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom – the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra Time+Tide
Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra Nov 25, 2021

PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom – the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra

What did you do to express your creativity over the COVID-19 lockdowns? Get a sourdough starter-kit? Sit with your kids and fill endless reams of paper with drawings from Kids Art Hub YouTube tutorials? Learn to knit? Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Max Büsser designed a watch together. Comfortingly for the rest of us, who aren’t … ContinuedThe post PANDEMIC BABY: Meet the watch built by two legit living legends over Zoom – the MB&F; x Bulgari Legacy Machine FlyingT Allegra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels 80s style with playful fun Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels Nov 23, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels 80s style with playful fun

If the resurgence of the mullet as a fashion statement as we emerge from lockdown(s) in Australia isn’t enough to convince you, then perhaps the decision by large watchmakers to revitalise two-tone models could help. And yes, it’s true. Mullets are coming back. God help us. Watches are, after all, part of the luxury and fashion … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Rado Captain Cook Automatic channels 80s style with playful fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Piaget tourbillon Nov 22, 2021

Highlights: Contemporary Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Complicated watches naturally come at a high cost of entry compared with simpler watches, at least at retail. But on the secondary market they can offer compelling value – except for a handful of “hot” watches (and we included one of those in the list too). At the same time, complications are intrinsically appealing because they possess the sheer technical quality that’s a key quality of high-end watchmaking. And there A. Lange & Söhne is no doubt a standout, especially for its watches that are considered benchmarks in their category, like the Datograph and Zeitwerk. So we round up a few highlights amongst the complications at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, covering a few value buys and also some star picks by Lange. So the list is diverse, ranging from the ultra-desirable Lange Datograph Lumen to a Piaget tourbillon with a form movement that is technically interesting and definitely strong value. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. The movement in the Datograph Lumen Lot 833: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen One of Lange’s trademark complications is the chronograph, simply because it does chronographs so well. It all started in 1999 with the Datograph. It’s still considered a landmark in modern chronographs two decades later for its fine, traditional construction. The model has been offered in s...

Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Nov 22, 2021

Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson

If you’ve been collecting watches for any meaningful length of time, you’ve probably got the storage of said timepieces sorted out. But let me ask you this: do you actually display your watches? No doubt a great deal of time, effort and thought has gone into curating your collection. It should be a reflection of  … ContinuedThe post Thinking outside the (watch) box with Jaeger-LeCoultre and designer Henry Wilson appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 3448 Nov 20, 2021

Three Vintage Watches Worth Knowing About at Phillips Hong Kong

Independent watchmaking may be the flavour du jour at auctions now, but there are still vintage watches worth paying attention to. Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong sale includes three of them, including an impressively crisp Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (above) as well as the unique Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in platinum with sapphire hour markers – both of which will be million-dollar watches in US dollar terms (or ten-million dollars in Hong Kong currency). The last watch of the trio, a 1930s Tank Cintree in white gold, is the most elegant. And its seemingly new condition merits reflection: what is a skilfully and sympathetically restored watch worth? The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIII takes place on November 25 (for lots 801-852) and November 26 (lots 853-1106). The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available on Phillips.com. Lot 819 – Rolex Daytona ref. 6241 “JPS” With the market for vintage sports watches having plateaued since it peaked in 2018 and 2019, prices have mostly softened across the board. That said, a handful of models still achieve impressive prices, most notably the Rolex Daytona “John Player Special”, or “JPS” for short. That’s because the solid-gold, manual-wind Daytona is an intrinsically rare watch – it is estimated that a few hundred exist as opposed to thousands in steel – and even less common with the “JPS” dial. Perhaps the most striking version of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the “JPS” nickna...

Surviving (And Enjoying) The Great Geneva Watch Auction Week Of November 2021: Harbinger Of Boom Or (Imminent) Doom? Quill & Pad
Nov 19, 2021

Surviving (And Enjoying) The Great Geneva Watch Auction Week Of November 2021: Harbinger Of Boom Or (Imminent) Doom?

If you were there, you won’t forget it soon. And if you weren’t, you are still going to be hearing about it for a very long time indeed. GaryG posits that the November 2021 Geneva auction week will be remembered as the point in time at which either the value of collectible watches reached a new plateau from which they only continued to climb or the bubble in prices for pieces from certain makers reached its most outrageous dimensions before deflating or imploding. Here's what happened.

New: Breitling Super AVI B04. With live pics and prices. Deployant
Breitling Super AVI B04 Nov 17, 2021

New: Breitling Super AVI B04. With live pics and prices.

Breitling salutes the aviation history with the new Super AVI collection with watches inspired by the original 1953 “Co-Pilot” Ref. 765 AVI aviator’s watch and four legendary planes: the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and the de Havilland Mosquito. Press Release info with live photographs. We haveRead More

INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers Nov 16, 2021

INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers

Though Grand Seiko is typically known for their dressier watches and mesmerising dials, you’d better believe a company with “Seiko” in its name knows a thing or two about making tool watches. With the latest iterations of their famed Spring Drive watches, the Grand Seiko SBGA461 and SBGA463 show what it really means to have … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The more refined and compact Grand Seiko SBGA461 & SBGA463 divers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Sport During Nov 4, 2021

We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport.

During a shoot in that small window in between lockdowns in Melbourne, Andrew and I were discussing some of our favourite pieces we’d seen and tried on this year. Despite not having the usual bulk access at major fairs, we’ve still had some great watches in the office to ogle. One of the first watches … ContinuedThe post We asked Andrew six hard-hitting questions on his first six months with the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C

How do you make enough noise in the large microbrand watch scene to be noticed? Do you ride a wave, presenting a design collectors have seen countless times? Do you offer dirt-cheap pricing that leaves many of us wondering how long you’ll even be here? Or do you make something so “unique”, no one would … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Typsim Watches go all in on vintage with the 200M & 200M-C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation SJX Watches
Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation Oct 18, 2021

Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation

Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Oct 13, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection

Collaborative limited-edition watches between brands and publishers are all the rage right now, their saturation within the marketplace creating some cynicism towards their value outside of being rather rare and collectible. I can’t speak for other publishers and the brands they work with, but what I can say with absolute certainty is that when Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. Time+Tide
Oct 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co.

What constitutes the ultimate tool watch for you? Should the case be made of durable materials? Do you want a movement that’s robust, reliable and easy to service? Should the size be small enough so it’s not prone to daily encounters with a door jam? It’s these type of questions that Tool Watch Co. (I … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows why the brand is still the field watch king Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows Oct 7, 2021

The Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows why the brand is still the field watch king

For years, Hamilton has held the crown as the field watch king. The simple, time-tested aesthetic of the watches within their Khaki Field collection represents the gold standard of what a field watch should be. Furthermore, Hamilton doesn’t simply rest on its laurels, as they continuously expand the collection, presenting variations on the theme through … ContinuedThe post The Hamilton Khaki Field collection shows why the brand is still the field watch king appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is a quirky flex that impresses collectors Time+Tide
Raketa Oct 7, 2021

Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is a quirky flex that impresses collectors

“Is that what I think it is?” asked Aldis Hodge, Hollywood actor and watch designer, as I sat down for breakfast one morning at Dubai Watch Week 2019. “Yep,” I replied. “It’s an old Raketa Copernic; I picked it up last year.” “Nice, man. I’ve got one of those too,” he said. I had already … ContinuedThe post Every Watch Tells a Story: Why Nick’s Raketa Copernic is a quirky flex that impresses collectors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

CHEAP BASTARD: Put a bird on it with the August Berg Time+Tide
Oct 5, 2021

CHEAP BASTARD: Put a bird on it with the August Berg

If you don’t know the brilliant satire sitcom Portlandia that ran from 2011 to 2018 and was the brainchild of SNL alum Fred Armisen, you should. If you do, the headline above should be immediately recognisable. It’s an imperative Danish watchmaker Magnus Joergensen of August Berg has taken to heart. In a collab with heritage British artist … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: Put a bird on it with the August Berg appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Mitch Mason nails its second chapter with the Maelstrom Time+Tide
Oct 4, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Mitch Mason nails its second chapter with the Maelstrom

The diver is one of the most popular types of watches out there. Reliability and strength, even at lower price points, are reasons why the average watch collector loves them. This love, of course, doesn’t escape the notice of brands; with many releasing their own divers. That leads to hundreds, if not thousands of divers … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Mitch Mason nails its second chapter with the Maelstrom appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week On The Wrist: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver Hodinkee
Maurice Lacroix Sep 30, 2021

A Week On The Wrist: The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver

The Maurice Lacroix Pontos S Diver was formally introduced at Baselworld back in 2013, where it won over crowds of journalists with a vintage inspired design just too simple to pass up. As difficult as it is to stand out in the vintage dive watch market, Maruice Lacroix seems to have struck a chord with the Pontos S Diver. Now that the watch has had a chance to settle into the market, we’ve decided to see just how well it’s held up by giving it a week on our wrist.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith unveiled Sep 30, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer Chronograph

Seiko’s current offerings are wide-ranging in both style and price, but its mechanical chronographs aren’t particularly outstanding – a surprise given the Japanese watchmaker’s historical prominence with the complication. Seiko, after all, was one of the first brands to debut an automatic chronograph in 1969, the same year Zenith unveiled the El Primero. Closing the gap is the latest launch from Seiko, the Prospex Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph (refs. SRQ035 and SRQ037), a blend of two historically-significant Seiko chronographs. The grey-dial automatic chronograph is based on Seiko’s 1964 chronograph wristwatch, while the white-dial version is modelled on the 1964 stopwatch Design-wise, it is modelled on the timepieces Seiko conceived for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics where the brand was the official timekeeper, namely a hand-wind chronograph wristwatch and a stopwatch. But the new Prospex chronograph is a self-winding chronograph with a full-spec movement. So technically, it takes its cues from the the Speedtimer ref. 6139 of 1969. Like the ref. 6139, the new chronograph is equipped with an automatic movement incorporated both a column wheel and vertical clutch for the chronograph. Initial thoughts Seiko has launched countless vintage-inspired models in recent years, with diver’s watches forming the bulk of the remakes, which makes the new chronographs unusual, simple because they are chronographs. At the same time, they are aesthetically unusual since the di...