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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction Quill & Pad
Mido Apr 5, 2021

Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction

Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.

Cartier Debuts Ballon Bleu Automatic 40 mm SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts Ballon Bleu Automatic Apr 2, 2021

Cartier Debuts Ballon Bleu Automatic 40 mm

Having made its debut 15 years ago, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier is an upstart by the Parisian jeweller’s standards – the Santos and Tank, for example, are both over a century old. But the Ballon Bleu was an instant hit, thanks to its classically round case with a quirky and captivating crown, making it one of the brand’s best sellers. Now a new size has joined the line up, the Ballon Bleu 40 mm powered by the in-house 1847 MC automatic movement. It sits in between the 36 mm medium and 42 mm large automatic models, neither too big nor too small for current tastes (Cartier already has a 40 mm that is hand-wind). The new 40 mm automatic also incorporates a practical upgrade: the brand’s proprietary quick-release system for the bracelet and strap. And finally, the new size also includes new dials in a simpler, metallic finish – in either blue and grey – giving it a more contemporary look. The most traditional of the Ballon Bleu variants with a silver guilloche dial Initial thoughts The Ballon Bleu is over a decade old but still attractive in a timeless manner that Cartier’s classic designs always manage to be. But it’s unusual among the brand’s best-known watch designs. While the signature Tank and Santos watches are characterised by straight, hard lines, the Ballon is a made up of spheres and domes of varied sizes – the crown, case, crystal and even the case back are all lightly rounded, giving it a pebble-like feel that’s a little organic. Given the B...

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Mar 31, 2021

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update

How do you update a classic? It’s a problem that many designers face, whether they work in the watch industry, automotives or product design. How do you retain the original idea behind a design and still bring it forward into the here and now? This is a question that the Rado Captain Cook designers must … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic collection delivers a skeletonised update appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WTF is a “luxury watch NFT” and why is Jean-Claude Biver selling one of his watch? Time+Tide
Mar 31, 2021

WTF is a “luxury watch NFT” and why is Jean-Claude Biver selling one of his watch?

You’ve probably heard of NFTs (Non-Fungible Tokens) over the last month or so and for good reason. NFTs are exploding in popularity, seemingly out of nowhere. If you haven’t come across NFTs, or haven’t yet tried to wrap your head around the initially impenetrable world of cryptocurrency and blockchain as they collide with collectible markets, … ContinuedThe post WTF is a “luxury watch NFT” and why is Jean-Claude Biver selling one of his watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Instagram accounts Mar 31, 2021

5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed

Not all watch brands have a community around them. In fact, most don’t, which is a huge challenge for those brands to build a loyal following who are relentlessly passionate about their product. As far as relentless passion goes, Grand Seiko is one of the most well-loved brands on the planet when it comes to … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best Grand Seiko Instagram accounts that you need in your feed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

City on a Hill is back with the return of Hollywood’s most avid watch fanatic, Aldis Hodge Time+Tide
Mar 30, 2021

City on a Hill is back with the return of Hollywood’s most avid watch fanatic, Aldis Hodge

Editor’s note: If you haven’t seen City on a Hill yet then start blocking out your evenings. Imagine The Wire transplanted to the mean streets of Boston and you start to get some idea of this wildly ambitious drama. While a gritty police investigation forms the narrative spine, swirling out from that is a lurid … ContinuedThe post City on a Hill is back with the return of Hollywood’s most avid watch fanatic, Aldis Hodge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 Perennially Treasured Rock Songs About Time (With Videos) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Mar 28, 2021

5 Perennially Treasured Rock Songs About Time (With Videos) – Reprise

“Time” is a topic often explored by artists, although it doesn’t even hold a candle to “love.” However, “time” is Elizabeth Doerr's topic, so her ears perk up when she catches a particularly poignant song about it. Recently, she has begun to think a bit more about these songs as both they and she (gracefully) age. Here she shares five cool songs about time with some background.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Mar 26, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery”

A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better. Initial thoughts This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously. But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch. And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much ...

The watch that got away… Hear our sob stories and share yours at The Breakfast Club #4 on Clubhouse Time+Tide
Mar 26, 2021

The watch that got away… Hear our sob stories and share yours at The Breakfast Club #4 on Clubhouse

Nearly every watch lover will harbour certain regrets. It is inevitable there’s a watch you wished you’d pulled the trigger on – wincing in hindsight that it is not in your collection today. In fact, this is such a relatable aspect of watch collecting that for the fourth weekly meeting of The Breakfast Club on … ContinuedThe post The watch that got away… Hear our sob stories and share yours at The Breakfast Club #4 on Clubhouse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

8 affordable watches on eBay right now for under $5k, including Patek Philippe and Jacob & Co Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Mar 25, 2021

8 affordable watches on eBay right now for under $5k, including Patek Philippe and Jacob & Co

Of late, eBay has been making serious strides into the pre-owned watch market and they certainly aren’t slowing down. They recently started a new Instagram account dedicated solely to watch content and just a few months ago announced their Authenticity Guarantee program to verify watches sold for $2000USD and over. This week eBay is offering … ContinuedThe post 8 affordable watches on eBay right now for under $5k, including Patek Philippe and Jacob & Co appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review Mar 23, 2021

2021 Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review

Pros: Calibre El Primero 9004 and it’s 1/100th of a second Chronograph Skeletonised Ultrabule dial Microblasted titanium case  Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 44mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Spend countless minutes staring at the 1/100th of second hand in motion Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 In June 2020, Zenith introduced the first new “spectrum” of colour for their DEFY 21 chronograph model. The DEFY 21 model was given an ultraviolet finish, which let’s be honest was absolutely stunning! The ultraviolet treatment was given to the majority of the timepiece, the main plate, the rotor on the case back and the colour on the fabric effect strap. Combine this with the subtle matte finish of the micro-blasted titanium case, and what you are left with is a timepiece that is hard to put down.  View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) Now, Zenith has released this DEFY 21 model in their latest colour scheme, Ultrablue. Never being afraid to create artistic masterpieces in watchmaking, Zenith has introduced this latest colour on the back of what can only be seen as a successful launch to the DEFY 21 Ultravoilet. The colours used in the Ultrablue to produce the standout effect are cool tones of deep indigo and electric blue. The only question is, does the Ultrablue live up to the same hype as the...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. Time+Tide
Mar 21, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots.

I’ve had quite a few microbrands in my personal watchbox. In fact, my first new mechanical watch after a waning vintage obsession was a microbrand. Due to the smaller nature of these businesses, one of the main attractions of buying these watches is the possibility of interacting with the brand owner during the retail process … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Tsao Baltimore Legacy delivers a host of vivid dials with proud American roots. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form Time+Tide
Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers Mar 21, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form

What’s better than one complicated Cartier? Three complicated Cartiers, especially when they arrive in a specially designed marquetery finished and lacquered wooden box. These three pieces that make up the new Cartier Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”, which share the two uniting themes of mystery and skeletonisation. But in a world where the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Fine Watchmaking collection delivers three platinum tourbillons in skeletonised form appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership Mar 18, 2021

Audemars Piguet Announces Partnership with Marvel

Audemars Piguet just announced many of the year’s new launches during Inside AP, a virtual presentation anchored by chief executive François-Henry Bennahmias and head of complications Michael Friedman, which also included something more intriguing – a partnership with Marvel and its band of superheroes. Hinted at when I interviewed Mr Bennahmias in 2019 – the announcement originally slated for a June 2020 – the tie up was decades in the making. According to Mr Bennahmias, he had envisioned a tie up with Marvel, the film studio and comic-book publisher that owns characters like Spider-Man, Iron Man, as well as the Avengers and X-Men, some 15 years ago. He only managed to set it in motion in 2017, thanks to American actor Don Cheadle, best known for playing War Machine in the Iron Man and Avengers film series. Friends with Mr Bennahmias for a decade, Mr Cheadle set up a meeting with Marvel executives that year, and also took part in today’s Inside AP presentation. Francois-Henry Bennahmias (left) and Don Cheadle Coming soon to a watch near you. Image – Marvel Studios Mr Bennahmias noted the Marvel partnership was inspired in part by the Fantasy watches of Gerald Genta that featured Disney characters like Mickey Mouse. Coincidentally, Marvel is now owned by The Walt Disney Company, making it a realisation of his ambition in more ways than one. More details about this tie up will be revealed in April during an event in Los Angeles. Stay tuned.  

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959 SJX Watches
Seiko Remakes Mar 16, 2021

Seiko Remakes the Mountaineer’s Watch of 1959

A longtime fan favourite, the modern-day Alpinist is synonymous with a forest-green dial and inner rotating bezel. But the origins of the model date to 1959, when Seiko introduced the first Alpinist as part of the Laurel brand. Today’s Alpinist has evolved a long way from the original, but now Seiko has returned the watch to its roots with a “re-creation” of the 1959 design. The 1959 Alpinist Re-creation is a somewhat faithful remake of the first Alpinist that was conceived as no-frills watch for mountaineers. At the same time, Seiko is also unveiling the simpler and more affordable The 1959 Alpinist Modern Re-interpretation. The vintage original of 1959 Initial thoughts Because it’s very much a mid-20th century design, the Alpinist reissues have a good blend of sportiness and elegance. The round cases are compact, giving them a slightly a dressy feel, but the dials are simple and legible, along with a more-than-capable watch case with substantial water resistance. The best thing about the watch is its design, which is minimalist but not plain. The markers are oversized and slightly decorative, and matched with a minute track that evokes a sector dial. Just 36.6 mm wide, the Re-creation is particularly good looking with its symmetrical layout and deep, glossy black finish. It also avoids the faux-vintage colour palette, resulting in a look that is retro but refreshingly modern. That said, its date window is squeezed between four and five o’clock, which is a l...

11 photos that show the boundless creativity in the best CasiOak mods Time+Tide
Casio ak mods Mar 16, 2021

11 photos that show the boundless creativity in the best CasiOak mods

A few weeks back, I wrote about my own Casio G-Shock GA2100-1A (AKA the CasiOak) that I had modified and received a lot of positive feedback about. Many people expressed interest in how different the watch looked after the modification. While I did note that the bracelet wasn’t particularly comfortable on the wrist, I agreed … ContinuedThe post 11 photos that show the boundless creativity in the best CasiOak mods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A month on the wrist with the Rolex “Pepsi”, the watch that has completely derailed my collecting strategy… Time+Tide
Rolex Pepsi” Mar 12, 2021

A month on the wrist with the Rolex “Pepsi”, the watch that has completely derailed my collecting strategy…

That is if I ever really had one. When it was released in 2018, the Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi Ref. 126710 BLRO quickly cemented itself at the top of my wish list, grail list, things-I’d-kill-for-to-own list (you get the picture). It remained firmly in the realm of dreams until recently when I decided to bite the bullet … ContinuedThe post A month on the wrist with the Rolex “Pepsi”, the watch that has completely derailed my collecting strategy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts Mar 10, 2021

Cartier Debuts a Trio of Flagship Complications

Although the most classic – and simple – of Cartier wristwatches designs have lately enjoyed resurgent popularity, the jeweller still makes exceptionally complicated watches. Its latest is not one but is a three-part set, the Fine Watchmaking Rotonde de Cartier Precious “Icons Set”. All three watches are amongst the brand’s flagship complications that go beyond design and into the realm of ingenious and unusual watchmaking. And the trio share a common theme of the mysterious display and tourbillon, fusing an optic illusion that is synonymous with Cartier and the rotating regulator. The Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon with a jade cabochon on the crown Initial thoughts Each of the watches in the set is special for how it combines Cartier’s traditional design with intriguing technical details. Although the movements are modern in style – the skeleton bridges have a dark grey finish – the designs remain classical. And the streamlined, “mysterious” construction of the movements belie the complexity of their construction. But the movements are unquestionably appealing, both in concept and execution. A curious mind might ponder how the mechanics seemingly float within the case. It’s an old trick that makes it seem like there is no connection between the movement and the case, but a good one that still has visual impact. While the details of the watches are elegant, all of them are huge. The smallest of the trio is 43.5 mm in diameter, and the larges...

Market Watch: Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique Mar 2, 2021

Market Watch: Vacheron Constantin Mercator Prototype Pièce Unique

An unusual wristwatch with twin retrograde hands in the form of a compass, the Mercator was unveiled in 1994 for the 400th anniversary of the death of Gerardus Mercator (1512-1594). A pioneering cartographer famous for inventing the map projection that evolved into the world maps of today, Mercator was born in present-day Belgium, which is where the genesis for the Mercator wristwatch was formed. The Mercator wristwatch was unusual amongst watches of the 1990s, being one of the rare handful of classically styled watches with an unconventional time display. At the same time, the fanciest versions of the Mercator watches featured hand-made fired enamel dials, which were rare at the time. The entry-level versions, in contrast, had acid-etched brass dials sporting similar motifs. A tribute to the past The Mercator watch was the brainchild of Jean Genbrugge, an artisan who, along with his wife Lucie, specialises in miniature enamel painting. Mr Genbrugge is also a watchmaker, which led him to invent the Mercator retrograde mechanism, while also devising the map-pattern dial as in a nod to his homeland’s famous son. “I am a citizen of Antwerp like Mercator, and I have a great admiration for his scientific work,” recounts Mr Genbrugge, “When the 400th anniversary of Mercator’s passing took place in 1993, I visited the exhibition in honour of his life at the Mercator Museum in Sint-Niklaas.” “Being a sailor, I am a navigator myself,” explains Mr Genbrugge, “Which...

This tale of an octopus wrestler’s Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will change the way you view your watch Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will Mar 1, 2021

This tale of an octopus wrestler’s Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will change the way you view your watch

Question: How do you catch and wrestle a giant Pacific octopus? The answer, of course, is very, very carefully. That’s according to the Canadian Television Network who reported the extraordinary tale of a veteran octopus wrestler whose 1953 Rolex Explorer sold at a New York auction house last month for $126,000 USD. Bill Hook is … ContinuedThe post This tale of an octopus wrestler’s Rolex Explorer worth $126,000 will change the way you view your watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Britain runs the risk of losing another of its crown jewels – King George’s Breguet pocket watch Time+Tide
Breguet pocket watch Monarchists Feb 26, 2021

Britain runs the risk of losing another of its crown jewels – King George’s Breguet pocket watch

Monarchists in Britain have endured a tough time of late.  Just before coronavirus went literally viral, there was a right royal rumble as Prince Harry and Meghan quit the royal family. As if that wasn’t bad enough, 2021 now sees the royal family in danger of losing another of its crown jewels, the King George … ContinuedThe post Britain runs the risk of losing another of its crown jewels – King George’s Breguet pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 watches Daft Punk might have been wearing when they self destructed this week (SOB) Time+Tide
Feb 26, 2021

6 watches Daft Punk might have been wearing when they self destructed this week (SOB)

Initially, the idea of robots taking over the earth doesn’t sound too promising. But if the aforementioned robots happened to be Daft Punk it probably would be quite agreeable with lots of euphoric melodies and filter disco sounds yoked together with a sci-fi aesthetic. But that’s not going to happen now. This week Thomas Bangalter … ContinuedThe post 6 watches Daft Punk might have been wearing when they self destructed this week (SOB) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What is Floyd Mayweather’s grandson’s first watch? A gold Rolex, of course Time+Tide
Rolex Feb 23, 2021

What is Floyd Mayweather’s grandson’s first watch? A gold Rolex, of course

Floyd Mayweather isn’t a man who wonders where his next meal is coming from. In fact, he’s one of the highest paid athletes of all time. With an undefeated boxing record of 50-0 and some of the biggest pay-per-view fight numbers of all time, he isn’t afraid to show off his wealth, especially when it … ContinuedThe post What is Floyd Mayweather’s grandson’s first watch? A gold Rolex, of course appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch and MoMa Debut Special Edition Collection SJX Watches
Swatch Feb 23, 2021

Swatch and MoMa Debut Special Edition Collection

Translating works of art into eminently affordable and wearable timepieces has long been a Swatch speciality, since the brand’s founding in fact. More recently, Swatch worked with the Keith Haring Foundation on a Mickey Mouse-themed collection. And its latest venture is a tie up with the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Swatch X MoMA is a collection of nine watches, each featuring paintings from the collection of the New York institution. Six watches will be available globally, either singly or as a limited-edition set, with the balance being customisable via the Swatch X You platform. The carefully curated selection of artwork spans the 20th century – save for Van Gogh’s The Starry Night of 1889 – creating a line up of watches that are each vastly distinct in style, and also in size, making each model unique. From left: The Dream; The Starry Night; The City and Design, The Wonders of Life on Earth, Isamu Kurita; New York; Composition in Oval with Color Planes 1; and Hope, II Initial thoughts Swatch x MoMa was launched virtually by a team drawn from both the watchmaker and museum – their passion and knowledge as they related the stories behind the project amazed me. Despite being extremely affordable watches, it is clear that a tremendous amount of passion and collaboration went into the development of the watches. And the result is rightly compelling. The entire watch, and not merely the dial, is the canvas, creating a flow of colour from end to end. But the pa...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around Time+Tide
Feb 21, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around

Let’s not beat around the bush, I can see it too. The Gerald Genta influence is strong here, but in a somewhat butcher presence than other arboreally named references and porthole-alike wristwear. So before you start throwing punches, yes, certain design cues are notable in The Ark from Jacob Veil. But maybe those cues have … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Ark from Jacob Veil might be the best value integrated bracelet watch around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.