Two Broke Watch Snobs
Alpina Wants $1,372 for a Solar Quartz Pilot Watch. Hear Me Out
Alpina brings solar power to the Startimer Pilot with a compact 38mm case and a La Joux-Perret-developed movement with 10 months of autonomy.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Pair Of Issued Smiths, A Gübelin 18K Triple Date Moonphase, A Universal Genève Ferrovie dello Stato, And Much More
Happy Friday, folks, and congrats on bustling through another week. Hopefully you're staring down a welcome break of a weekend with rest and good cheer. Scorekeeping last week's picks, the Zenith De Luca sold for €4,750, the Carlo Ferrara for €2,816, the Gen 1 Speedmaster X-33 for 2,000 SGD, and the Patek Philippe 1415 will sell this Friday. Strays Photo courtesy of The Saleroom. For those suddenly enthusiastic about vintage Zenith De Lucas that look an awful lot like the Daytona of the same time period, here's an excellent example, but if you'd rather a Zenith with a little more color and flash and water resistance, here's a great-looking vintage Defy. This Gübelin pocket watch is breath-arrestingly lovely, as are both of these (dog leg, non dog leg) 18k Omega Constellations. This Vintage Meister Anker chronograph is a catch-22 watch in that it looks really cool, but it's also got a plated case, and it's powered by an Ebauches Bettlach pin-lever movement, so proceed with caution. On September 18, Millon in Paris will host an auction that's listed as the "Collection Monsieur B," and whoever Monsieur B is, he's got phenomenal taste. Among the offerings are an Omega Chronometer Seamaster 'Sparkle' reference 168.022, a Universal Genève Polerouter Super, an Omega Holy Grail, a Sinn EZM 1, and a Zenith El Primero A386, but there are tons more you should go check out. Finally: Memosails forever. A Pair of Issued Smiths The British Ministry of Defense issued the Smiths W10 ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Magnificent Pocket Watches at Sotheby’s Hong Kong
In exactly a week, Sotheby’s Hong Kong will stage Important Watches, an impressive, two-day auction that includes a selection of outstanding pocket watches from Switzerland and Great Britain, namely timepieces by Patek Philippe and Charles Frodsham, with most of the latter made by Nicole Nielsen. Three watches stand out from this already elite herd, built by the best of London and Geneva – a modern grand complication, one of the first-ever flying tourbillon watches, and a minute-repeating pocket chronometer. Despite a recent uptick in interest, pocket watches still offer phenomenal value, and are often the most interesting lots in auction catalogues for movement nerds. The pocket watches in Sotheby’s upcoming sale exemplify this. Lot 2293 – Patek Philippe ref. 942/2 “Grande Complication” This is a relatively recent example of a historical Patek Philippe genre, the grande complication pocket watch, one that dates back over a century now. The common watch complications fall into three categories: chiming, timing, and calendars. Chiming watches include repeaters in all their resolutions, plus clock watches, alarms, and hour strikers. Chronographs, rattrapantes, dédoublantes and independent seconds functions are timing complications. Calendar complications, besides the obvious, include moon phase, time of sunrise and sunset, and equation of time. A triple complicated watch combines complications from all three families. For Patek Philippe this traditionally meant ...
Monochrome
Introducing - Delma Adds a Meteorite Dial to its Midland Automatic
Delma’s Midland collection is the brand’s sporty-chic take on the integrated-bracelet watch, bringing some 1980s flavour to the category. The watches in this collection come in two sizes, 40mm and 34mm, with the automatic 40mm versions sitting at an accessible price point of around EUR 1,400. We have already seen the Midland in multiple colours, […]
Hodinkee
Happenings: Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week Is Back For 2026
If you're based in Southeast Asia, or just have a general hankering to visit Bangkok soon, the capital city of Thailand is preparing to host the second edition of the Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week from September 22nd to September 27th. Hosted by Siam Paragon, one of Thailand's largest luxury shopping malls, the six-day showcase will bring together a large gathering of collectors from across Southeast Asia and beyond, curious newcomers to watchmaking, and industry heavyweights for a major celebration of horology. This year will see over 45 brands participating in the watch week, which marks more than double the brand count from last year's inaugural effort. The show will feature a wide range of brands, from haute horlogerie mainstays like Greubel Forsey, A. Lange & Söhne, and MB&F; to more niche names like David Candaux and Behrens. There's going to be a lot of the big names here, and enough deep-cut brands to keep you entertained. Part of the programming for Bangkok Watch Week will be numerous experiences spread out throughout the week, with workshops, presentations, and more being conducted by many notable names behind many of the brands making an appearance during the show. Unfortunately, I believe many, if not most, of these experiences are already fully booked, so if you're planning to make it to Bangkok, take a look now to see what's still open. Our friends at the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, or the FHH, will introduce its Academy Lounge concept to host worksho...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
7 Watches With 100M+ Water Resistance That Aren’t Dive Watches
From field watches to GMTs and chronographs, these picks offer the water resistance we want without the usual dive-watch formula.
Time+Tide
A round-up from Geneva Watch Days
It was an action-packed week in Geneva, and there was a lot to unpack from the second trade show of the year.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator
One of the most appealing releases of Geneva Watch Days was the Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Regulator. While not an altogether new model, the watch incorporates a number of welcome updates, including a smaller case and a more refined dial that resembles an instrument panel on the wrist. The L.U.C 98.02-L movement remains in service, and is both COSC and Poinçon de Genève-certified. Moreover, the calibre achieves an impressive nine days of power reserve and is neatly finished, as is typical for Chopard’s higher-end offerings. Initial thoughts Chopard has long been a steward of the regulator format. In fact, the 1963 Heritage Regulator marks 20 years since the brand’s first contemporary regulator wristwatch. The regulator format is strongly associated with precision clocks, but Chopard’s interpretation reminds me of an automotive dashboard — perhaps intentionally, since the brand’s co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele is known for his affinity for vintage cars. The latest example is substantially improved over prior generations, with several nips and tucks that result in a move wearable and less busy package overall. The watch is tangibly well made, with an expensive bill of materials and refined execution. The 1963 Heritage Regulator is priced at about US$50,000, and is limited to a concise run of 25 pieces in (ethically sourced) 18k white gold. By current standards, it’s a reasonable proposition, but still slightly above the going rate for a Patek Philippe...
Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2026 (And Beyond)
In case you somehow missed it, last week was Geneva Watch Days. While not the absolute busiest week of the year for new watch releases, it's not far off the mark, and 2026 saw dozens of brands converging on Geneva to show off their latest and greatest novelties. We covered a lot of those watches as they dropped, but now that we've had a few days to process what we got to see (some of us in person, the rest vicariously), we thought it would be a good moment to share some of the watches that stood out to us from a week full of new watches. And please forgive us: while we did our best to hold ourselves to Geneva Watch Days proper, as was inevitable, a few ancillary picks made their way into the mix, but I think we can all agree they're still watches worth talking about. Of course, our ragtag team of editors can only cover so much here, so once you've seen all our picks, be sure to drop a line in the comments — we'd love to know which watches from Geneva Watch Days stood out to all of you. Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Dusk in Yellow Gold (plus the M.A.D.3 Vincent Calabrese) [Ben Clymer] Can I pick two? I have to. Because this year kinda felt like the old days – the two watches I'd actually buy of GWD 2026 are from brands I've loved (and owned) a long, long time - Laurent Ferrier and MB&F;. The first is Laurent Ferrier's new limited run of "Dusk" annual calendar moonphases in yellow gold. As you probably know, I love yellow gold, and this is the first iteration of a lovely w...
Worn & Wound
Alpina Expands their Solar Quartz Offerings with New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre References
As part of their Geneva Watch Days presentation, Alpina unveiled several new solar quartz references in their Solarmetre line, which effectively places solar quartz movements made by La Joux-Perret in familiar Alpina references. It’s about the most natural move possible from a business perspective. Alpina and La Joux-Perret are both owned by the Citizen Group, who of course make Citizen watches and have been leaning heavily into solar quartz technology for years. The Alpina watches sit at a higher price point than the average Citizen, so the expansion of solar quartz across Alpina’s collection naturally begins an interesting conversation about value for enthusiasts who might have an interest in both brands. The core of the release last week would have to be a trio of new Startimer Pilot Solarmetre watches. These are solar quartz powered versions of the still new Alpina pilot watch introduced earlier this year at Watches & Wonders. I think the value here is in the particular way these watches take advantage of the smaller La Joux-Perret quartz movement compared to their mechanical counterparts. The mechanical versions of these watches measure 40mm in diameter and a hair over 10mm tall, while the Solarmetre watches come in at 38mm wide and 9.3mm thick. That’s a meaningful difference in size, with the added grab and go benefits of solar quartz (Alpina says the AL-140 movements here will run for 10 months in total darkness, and of course it doesn’t take much light to...
Time+Tide
Panerai celebrates 100 years of its Florence boutique with two tasty limited editions
Panerai's Florence Boutique celebrates its 100th anniversary with two limited editions inspired by the famed ref. 6521 prototype.
WristBuzz
Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code: Mechanical Digital Gets a Colour Injection
Three pastel dials give the brand's quirky handless regulator a softer, more wearable personality - without touching what makes it tick
Monochrome
First Look - New Sensations with Hublot’s new Big Bang Original Soft Touch Models
For over two decades, Hublot has embraced the ‘Art of Fusion’, blending unexpected materials like rubber, gold, ceramic, and sapphire into bold visual statements. The latest Big Bang Original Soft Touch pushes the boundaries even further, inviting us to experience how a watch feels. More than just a coating, Hublot has integrated a microscopic, textured […]
Fratello
Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs
For the first time in the Astron collection, Seiko introduces gray ceramic. The shiny non-alloy appears on the bezel, crown cap, and bracelet center links of two new Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronograph watches. While these models share the ceramic parts, they have differently colored titanium components. The HAB007 is the full-gray version, […] Visit Gray Ceramic Debuts On Two New Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual Time Chronographs to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor
Girard-Perregaux (GP) is on the rebound after a few quiet years, and the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon Micro-Rotor 39 mm is a compelling addition to the premium sports watch arena. Featuring an all-new automatic tourbillon calibre and expensively crafted dials — with optional grand feu enamel — the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon embodies the strides GP has taken to reposition itself in the industrial-haute horlogerie segment. Initial thoughts I tend to feel somewhat jaded about tourbillons squeezed into sports watches, but I was pleasantly surprised by the thoughtful execution of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon, from its grand feu flinqué enamel dial to the (surprisingly) solid gold bridges of the all-new cal. GP8410. Moreover, the brand managed to maintain the nearly ideal proportions of the Laureato Fifty while adding a finely finished free-sprung tourbillon to the lower half of the dial. While the 39 mm format is familiar, the cal. GP8410 is one of four new automatic calibres the brand has introduced in roughly the past year, after the workhorse GP4800, the automatic minute repeating cal. GP9530, and the GP9620 with the brand’s emblematic “three gold bridges” architecture. The nearly simultaneous release of these four distinct platforms hints at the investment put into GP since the group’s management buyout in early 2022. Priced at almost exactly US$100,000, both variants of the Laureato Fifty Tourbillon are positioned squarely against watches like the Vacheron Consta...
Teddy Baldassarre
Titan Stellar Review: Indian Watchmaking Makes A Move For Enthusiasts
Exploring Titan's audacious leap into the enthusiast space with proprietary mechanics and aerospace-grade materialsMore
Worn & Wound
A Night of Watches and Enthusiasm in Salt Lake and Officially Introducing Worn & Wound Recommended
On August 27, Worn & Wound headed west for an evening of watches, good conversation, and plenty of time spent with fellow enthusiasts. Hosted with Citizen Watch America at Morgan Jewelers’ Center of Brilliance in Murray, Utah, the event brought together members of the local watch community and Morgan Jewelers’ clientele for a night of exploring, learning, and, of course, talking watches. With rare and unique watches from Citizen, Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frédérique Constant on hand, there was plenty to see and plenty of reasons to linger. Attendees were able to get watches out of the case and onto their wrists, compare notes, ask questions, and learn from both the brands and one another. And, as tends to happen when a room is full of watch people, the conversation quickly moved well beyond the watches on display. There were plenty of highlights, including the Citizen Eco-Drive Photon, celebrating 50 years of Eco-Drive, as well as the limited-edition Hand-dyed Indigo Washi Paper Dial. Accutron brought its Spaceview 314, while Bulova showed off the retro-styled Super Seville Precisionist. Frédérique Constant and Alpina rounded out the mix with everything from an in-house worldtimer to the solar-powered Alpiner Extreme. But the watches were only half the fun. Enthusiasts mixed and mingled with Morgan Jewelers’ clientele throughout the evening, sharing collecting stories, swapping wrist shots, and helping one another discover something new. Some left with new kn...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Alpina Catches Rays And Light With New Startimer Pilot Solarmetre And Alpiner Extreme Solarmetre X Route Du Rhum
What We Know Alpina, the value-driven, adventure and outdoor Swiss watch brand, is chasing the sun (and artificial light) with some of its new releases. The brand is now, across more models, utilizing solar quartz movements manufactured by La Joux-Perret, the Swiss movement maker majority-owned by Japan's Citizen Group, which also controls Frederique Constant and Alpina. Solarmetre quartz movements are now available in both the updated Startimer Pilot and Alpiner Extreme models. Solar quartz is a natural fit for Alpina, bringing more reliability, accuracy, convenience, thinness, and value to its lineup. Both Solarmetre quartz models are priced at $1,495, offering an aggressively priced entry point into the brand with a movement also found in LVMH-owned watch brands, including TAG Heuer. The AL-140 caliber, solar quartz by La Joux-Perret, runs for up to 10 months in total darkness after a full charge, boosting the grab-and-go appeal. The shift to solar quartz (both model lines remain available in mechanical automatic versions as well) makes these pieces more practical while shaving millimeters from the case measurements and significant dollars from the price. Let's start with the solar Pilot Startimer. The new look for the pilot watch model was unveiled at Watches and Wonders this year, and now, amid the slew of releases for Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is giving us the Startimer Pilot Solarmetre. Available in three versions: two steel-cased models and one in sand-colo...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Five New Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time References
What We Know In January of 2025, I covered Louis Vuitton's major evolution of its distinctive Spin Time series, debuting as the Tambour Taiko Spin Time series in a set of six limited-edition watches, all set in a single "Dolphin Grey" color scheme across several different takes on the complication, from the classic jumping hour to a flying tourbillon and even a world timer. It introduced a cohesive set of new in-house movements to power the complications and marked the first time every element of the Spin Time was produced in-house at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton—cases, dials, movements, and more. It's been a while since we've heard anything about this collection, but this week Louis Vuitton introduced a new set of Tambour Spin Time watches into the brand's permanent collection. The main update to the permanent collection is a few fresh coats of paint, but the set of five references covers quite a bit of the Spin Time concept. All of these are set in the latest generation of Japanese drum-inspired Tambour case from the brand, with a sloped midcase complemented by screwed-in, sculpted lugs with laser-frosted interiors. On top is a sloped, predominantly sandblasted bezel ring with "LOUIS VUITTON" adorned on its periphery. All five of these new references are set in precious metal cases. Two 39.5mm Tambour Spin Times offer two very different wearing experiences (and price points). The simplest reference comes in the form of the Tambour Spin Time Green in White Gold,...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Best Chronographs Under $750 We’ve Ever Tested
From meca-quartz racers to tool watches and space-inspired icons, these are the affordable chronographs under $750 that impressed us after real wrist time.
Fratello
Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25 - 27, And I Think You Should Go
There’s a version of the watch calendar that only contains Geneva, and I understand the appeal of that version. It’s the one we see, read, and hear about on the regular. But some of the best days I’ve had around watches haven’t been in a fair hall at all. They’ve been at smaller, community-run events […] Visit Lancaster Watch Weekend Returns September 25–27, And I Think You Should Go to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue
Czapek celebrated its new flagship at Quai des Bergues 27 by releasing two limited editions during Geneva Watch Days 2026. The Quai des Bergues Midnight in Geneva pairs a 40.5mm steel case with a dark blue aventurine dial and Czapek’s seven-day, manually wound Calibre SXH1. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue places its open-worked double-escapement … Continued
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Geneva Watch Days Recap
Geneva Watch Days (GWD) just concluded, and by most measures it was the biggest ever. Brands exhibiting topped 70 while visitors were at a record high. In addition, the event attracted “an even larger contingent of content creators” according to GWD’s organisers, underscoring the growing fashionability of watches on social media. Some 400 watches were debuted at the event — but were they any good? Overall, the event reflected the current state of the industry; demands of buyers were perfectly echoed by the watches released. But as SJX notes during the episode, “just because something looks like a Ferrari doesn’t mean it’s a Ferrari”. Notably, some of the biggest announcements and best watches were launched outside of GWD, but during the same week — the most prominent of all being the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” charity auction. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size
A Lange & Söhne has introduced new limited edition versions of their 1815 Up/Down model, one of the brand’s key references for years. The Up/Down is a true enthusiast favorite, prized by Lange collectors for its unique and very German presentation of the power reserve on the dial, located within a circular subdial at the 8:00 position. This style of power reserve indicator is traced back to German pocket watches made in the late 19th century, and I personally have always loved the way it looks on Lange 1815s. The new references are newsmaking primarily because they are sized down from the brand’s current standard 1815 Up/Down, which measures in at 39mm. The original Up/Down, which is highly collectible today, had a 35.9mm case when it debuted. The case size of these new limited editions, in either white or pink gold, comes in at 37.5mm. That seems to me to be a pretty good compromise for a watch like this, which has always been conceived as a pure dress piece. It remains impressively thin, with a case height of 8.7mm. The dial is a cool, desaturated blue, with silver subdials for the power reserve and running seconds at 8:00 and 4:00, respectively. The color here would appear to be a bit of a tribute or callout to the original Up/Down, which was available in a similar but not quite identical shade. Blue is a color Lange frequently returns to for special editions and limited releases. Otherwise, the dial is fairly standard 1815 Up/Down fare, which is to say it’s ...
Teddy Baldassarre
Haute Horlogerie Demystified: What It Is And Isn't
We asked a few experts to help us weigh in on one of the most overused terms in watchmaking. More
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
Building a Complete Collection with Grand Seiko
Today we have Danny in store with Teddy to compete in another challenge. This time, the objective is to create a complete collection using only one brand: Grand Seiko. We have our usual panel of judges but we also want to know what you think. Watch the video and let us know in the comments who you think made the better
Fratello
I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered
Not everything can be defined by numbers. A concert in a stadium with 100,000 attendees can be an impressive event, but seeing the same artist in a small, overcrowded club can be a life-changing experience for 100 people. Watches and Wonders is the stadium concert, and Geneva Watch Days (GWD) is the club gig; well, […] Visit I Came To Be Dazzled, And Geneva Watch Days 2026 Delivered to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton updates its Spin Time with five new models
Cosmetic updates to the Spin Time models of last year offer a fresh perspective on these jump hour watches from LV.
Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Unveils New Carrera Chronograph Sport Editions Ahead of Spanish Grand Prix
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport, a modern evolution of the brand’s iconic motorsport-inspired Carrera from 1963, debuted in 2020, TAG Heuer’s 160th anniversary year, alongside the decidedly more understated Carrera Chronograph. The differences between the two models has always been clear: the Sport editions wer
SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe to Benefit Monaco Charity
F.P. Journe and H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco have announced the creation of the one-off Chronographe Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco for the monarch’s upcoming charity auction. The Chronographe Fondation evolves the movement architecture of the Chronographe FB and adds the burgundy-and-bone livery that has become a calling card of the brand’s support for the Monaco-based charity. H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and François-Paul Journe. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts The design is undeniably busy with a mix contrasting colours and fonts. Yet taste is almost beside the point, since rare F.P. Journe watches with striking dials are amongst the hottest watches in the world at the moment. It also arrives amid sustained demand for unique watches created for charity. While unlikely to match the expected result of the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” set, it combines several proven ingredients that should supercharge its value. Stylistically, the watch is consistent with F.P. Journe’s three prior creations for the Foundation: the 2018 Chronographe Rattrapante, the Chronomètre Optimum of 2022, and the Chronomètre à Résonance of 2024. The latter hammered for US$2.98 million, setting a lofty precedent. The similar Chronographe FB retailed for CHF90,000 in 2024, but this point of reference is purely academic — uniqueness and charity will determine the result, and the Resonance result suggests both can overwhelm any conventional sense of value. Burgundy...