Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Breguet Type XX With No Date Window, A Classic Omega Reborn, And A Rolex Sport Watch Made Small
A curated selection of what the Hodinkee Shop has to offer.
Results for Equation of Time
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Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Norqain Adds a Limited Edition Freedom 60 Chrono in Ice Blue to their Lineup
The latest release from Norqain capitalizes on a recent color trend while steering the brand back from the tech forward, ultra sporty Wild One that has been the brand’s primary focus since late last year. The Freedom 60 Chrono Ice Blue Limited Edition, in a 40mm case size, sits on the opposite end of the spectrum of Norqain’s increasingly varied catalog, which now includes watches made with unusual proprietary materials and an increasing stock of limited editions. The Freedom 60 Chrono takes a more vintage inspired approach, but this version has been given a super sleek colorway that is quite contemporary. The Freedom 60 Chrono seen here has an ice blue dial with a subtle sunray effect, and is dotted with three black subdials providing readouts for elapsed minutes, hours, and running seconds. The dial has a two layer construction with the subdials sitting below the main dial for added depth, and a matching black outer ring with a white tachymeter scale for contrast. The hour markers are diamond cut and rhodium plated, and have small old radium colored lume tips at their inside edge. The date window at 4:30 is color matched to the ice blue dial, and in these photographs appears to be very well executed, proving that it is, in fact, possible to deliver a three register layout and 4:30 date window without completely fumbling the bag. The secret weapon here is really the case. The 40mm incarnation of the Freedom 60 case is dramatically more wearable and in proportion t...
Deployant
Review: hands-on with the new Sylvian Pinaud Origine
Here is our hands-on review of his Origine, who he first showed last year, but which we just got to see in the flesh this year.
Revolution
5 Cartier Tank Cintrée in Luminous Arabic Numerals
Wei sits down with Constant as he introduces his latest project with Cartier, a set of five Cartier Tank Cintrée in Luminous Arabic Numerals uniquely crafted from the Maison by the exclusive New Special Order program or NSO. The Cartier New Special Order program is a unique service that allows the creation of customized Cartier […]
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph
Two years ago, Louis Vuitton unveiled the Tambour Street Diver, a livelier iteration of its longstanding Tambour dive watch. Now the brand debuts the Tambour Street Diver Chronograph, adding further a stopwatch to the nautical-inspired aesthetic. Together, the two Street Divers now form the entry-level of the brand’s mechanical watch offerings, which progress upwards into seven-figure, minute-repeater-with-automaton territory. Initial thoughts The new chronograph is a natural progression from its predecessor, retaining the elements of a traditional dive watch, including a less-common inner rotating bezel, while incorporating Louis Vuitton’s bold and modern styling, including the tall, drum-shaped case. The design is as much “street” as it is “diver”, and very much in keeping with the brand’s aesthetic. Both the case and dial are executed well, although the two-tone case might not be to everyone’s taste. Enthusiasts, however, will note the ETA movement inside. The movement is reliable and robust, though the US$11,105 price tag deserves a more interesting calibre. That said, given Louis Vuitton’s well-funded ambitions in watchmaking, it is a certainty that the brand will soon roll out in-house calibres in all price segments of its catalogue. Nautically inspired The new chronograph available in two variations: Skyline Blue (blue with metallic sun-ray finish) and Neon Black (matte black), each matched with a case colour in the same colour. Both have the same ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 x Saint Laurent
A new type of fashion watch has entered the chat.
Worn & Wound
5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop
Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. Whether it’s a watch with a fun pop of color, or something super functional for that impromptu jump in a pool, picking out a new summer-ready watch is the perfect excuse to go shopping. Today, we’re going over five of our favorite watches that will make an ideal wrist companion for all of your summer trips, dips, and more. Read on to learn more about a classically-styled diver, a go anywhere, do anything hybrid, the most colorful watch in the shop, and more. The post 5 Summer-Friendly Watches from the Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067
Following the launch of a revamped flagship perpetual calendar, Breguet now reboots its famous pilot’s chronograph with the Type XX Chronographe 2057 and 2067. Descended from the military-issue watches introduced in the 1950s, the new Type XX makes its debut with a pair of watches – one military inspired and the other civilian – that are identical on a fundamental level but distinctly different in look and feel. Significant enhancements have been introduced with the latest-generation Type XX, including more sophisticated case finishing, but most notable is the newly-developed flyback chronograph movement with an extended power reserve and high-frequency, 5 Hz escapement. (The new models are referred to as Type XX, as are vintage pilot’s chronographs sold to the civilian market. Vintage military-issue chronographs are known as Type 20, as is historical practice.) The ref. 2067 modelled on the civilian Type XX of the 1960s Initial thoughts After introducing the Type XX and Type XXI, Breguet has returned back to the Type XX model name with a new watch that retains many of the distinctive design elements that define the Type XX, while incorporating significant improvements to the design, details, and of course movement. At 42 mm, the new Type XX is a large watch, but sized correctly for a pilot’s chronograph. The lugs are also relatively short so the watch sits well on the wrist. And enthusiasts will appreciate the fact that the case size corresponds to the movement....
Worn & Wound
Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution
Accutron revived their famous electrostatic movement with a modern Spaceview in 2020, tapping into a heap of nostalgia in the process. This year, the Spaceview is getting its first major update with the release of the Spaceview Evolution, pushing the aesthetic concepts of the watch into new territory. The new variants retain every bit of the drama embraced by the original (both from the ‘60s, and from 2020), and dial up the ‘style’ factor thanks to some new finishes and color schemes that compliment the exposed components of the electrostatic movement. It remains as polarizing as ever, which is a refreshing move these days. The new Spaceview Evolution offers a pair of new flavors that bring a light and a dark appearance to the platform. The biggest shift you’ll notice right off the bat is the rotated orientation of everything on the dial. This is due to the 30° counter clockwise rotation of the movement, which alters the dial layout, and moves the crown from the 3 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position. The move opens up the top portion of the dial a bit further, bunching the three large apertures into the bottom dial’s bottom half. In addition to the layout rotation, the bridge work that frames the exposed areas of the movement, as well as the chapter ring at the perimeter, have received a healthy dose of finishing work, both to their surface and to their edges. The sprawling framing bridge shape gets a guilloche look with diamond polished bevels, whi...
Worn & Wound
Ralph Lauren’s Stirrup Gets a Refresh with New Straps, and Some Additional Thoughts on the 4th Watch
Last week, Blake wrote an editorial examining the idea of the so-called “4th watch,” and I’ve been thinking about it ever since. I can feel myself heading into what I have a feeling will come to be known as the Summer of the Fourth Watch. I find that when I’m picking out a watch for the day, the normal stuff doesn’t catch my eye. I’m drawn to bright colors, unusual shapes, and left of the middle executions more than I normally am, and my “normal” is kind of weird to begin with. For whatever reason, though, I’m in a season of experimentation and, frankly, boredom with the obvious choices. It’s possible that come fall, I could have a box full of 4th watches. So it’s with this frame of mind that I’m approaching the latest announcement from Ralph Lauren, a refresh of their Stirrup watch collection featuring a selection of colorful interchangeable leather straps. Am I going to buy a Stirrup watch? Probably not. Almost certainly not. I can’t imagine it. But I can see the appeal of these as a potential 4th watch. The truth is, I’ve always been a fan of Ralph Lauren watches. They tend to have clean, classic designs, and the watches themselves are very well made. Many belong in another watch category we like to talk about here, the Sleeper. There are truly high end and beautifully finished Ralph Lauren watches that are hiding under the cover of the dreaded “fashion watch” designation, but these aren’t mass produced, hastily licensed junk. They ...
Time+Tide
The Ball Roadmaster Ocean Explorer blends nautical utility with strong all-round specifications
Despite “Road” and “Ocean” not necessarily being compatible worlds, the Ball Roadmaster Ocean Explorer is an incredibly cohesive watch with impressive features. Few brands can blend classical sophistication and modern ingenuity as well as Ball can, and they also understand the need mechanical watch lovers have for analogue interactions. Whether you have a need to … ContinuedThe post The Ball Roadmaster Ocean Explorer blends nautical utility with strong all-round specifications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In Conversation with Derijke & Co.’s Laurens De Rijke: The Man Behind the Miffy Double Moonphase
Wei sits down with Laurens de Rijke of De Rijke & Co., to understand how a small Dutch independent brand created an iconic watch featuring one of the most well-loved cartoon characters on the planet, Miffy. Our latest collaboration with De Rijke & Co. is an inspired take on De Rijke & Co’s original sold-out […]
Deployant
New: Bvlgari expands their Aluminium collection
Bvlgari extends their very popular Aluminium collection with new references in time only, a destro model, and chronograph.
Time+Tide
The Dan Henry 1970 44mm is back with new colours and the same, affordable price
The Dan Henry 1970 44mm has been re-issued four years after it sold out. The range of new colours includes a black and cream dial with a blacked-out case. It’s available as a limited edition of 1,970 pieces. Dan Henry has soared since the brand’s inception back in 2016, and they can hardly even be … ContinuedThe post The Dan Henry 1970 44mm is back with new colours and the same, affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sequent Elektron and SuperCharger: Relatively Affordable Smartwatches for Mechanical Watch Enthusiasts
Many watch collectors own one of more smartwatches, and most of them collect dust in a drawer as the novelty has worn off. so how are Sequent watches different? Martin Green explains.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Citizen Surprises Us With A Brand New 37mm Promaster Diver Collection
The classic, rugged, and modern diver gets sized down for the rest of us.
Worn & Wound
Seiko Reveals New, Trimmer King Seiko References
Seiko is continuing to refine their modern King Seiko collection with a series of iterations seen in a pair of new references: the SJE089, and the SJE091. The evolution may not be visible at a glance, but a closer look reveals a new date-equipped movement at use, a slimmer case, and a slightly altered profile, all done in the service of ergonomics. The result is a new King Seiko that measures just 10.7mm in thickness, shaving a few tenths off the first releases we saw in 2022, while adding a date complication at the same time. Overall the design is still heavily referential to the original 1965 King Seiko KSK, which has a special place in Seiko history that you can read more about in our introduction of the 2020 LE that set the template for the modern references we enjoy today. The new King Seiko references bring a date back to the dial at 3 o’clock thanks to the caliber 6L35 inside, which is making its first appearance in the main King Seiko collection. This is the most notable difference from the initial SPB King Seiko references launched last year, which used the 6R31 movement. The SJE references land a bit closer to the original as a result, and remain relatively demure with the same silver and black dial options. The case is what really deserves a closer inspection here. It remains steel and measures 38.6mm in diameter, however features a new trimmer lug profile that integrates a bit more seamlessly to the case via the large, flat surfaces that define its shape. T...
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II – A Good Looking Value Proposition
If a vintage styled field watch is your thing, then maybe the Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II maybe just the thing for you. Oh, and we’re giving it away! What We Love Vintage stylingEasy to wearChangeable straps What We Don’t Not a high grade movementLack of design elements on strapNot suitable for smaller wrists Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8/10 This is a review with a difference. Whilst we get a lot of watches to review each month, this time we’ve decided to review one we’re giving away to our amazing audience. How do you win? simply take our short 4 minute survey to help us design and write content to help you, our readers. which you can take it here. Don’t forget to come back and read the review when you’re done! The Gruppo Gamma Ventura Field Watch II Gruppo Gamma is probably a brand you’ve not heard of, and not surprisingly as they’re a micro brand founded in 2013, named after the Italian frogmen unit of the same code name, that was first put to action in 1940 and was the first modern naval diver unit. The top secret elite force was called “Gruppo Gamma” which was said to have originated from the Pirelli rubber skinsuit, called “muta gamma”, that was used by the divers. And they make some very reasonably priced tool watches with inspiration from vintage style field and dive watches. The Design If you think this looks familiar in style, then you’re not wrong. The Venturo is h...
Quill & Pad
Oscillon Fundamentum: Sublime Handmade Simplicity: The Ultimate Sleeper Watch
The Oscillon Fundamentum is a basic, time only watch that should fly perfectly under the radar and appear to many as a simple, classically modern watch. But that belies it's nearly totally handmade perfection.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Since its introduction in 2018 with the Tank Cintrée, Cartier Privé has emerged as a favourite of enthusiasts because it delves into the brand’s rich history by reimagining iconic designs. That approach is exemplified in the latest addition to the collection, the Privé Tank Normale. Based on the 1917 original designed by Louis Cartier, the latest incarnation of the Tank Normale matches historical style with a touch of modernity. Initial thoughts Even amongst Cartier’s many famous case designs, the Tank stands out as especially iconic. The very first Tank was the Normale so it was only a matter of time before Cartier revived the original Normale, which had been out of production for some years. The revived Tank Normale was clearly conceived with attention to detail. It looks much like the vintage original, but with a gently modernised dial as well as the heft and refinement of a modern timepiece. One especially pleasing detail that speaks to its creators’ eye for detail is the bevelled sapphire crystal that mimics the glass of the vintage original. A standout feature of the Tank Normale is the bracelet, which is optional and expensive but looks good. Constructed with brick-like links, the bracelet evoke watches from the 1920s. The vintage aesthetic fits the Tank Normale perfectly, but the build quality is solidly modern. This is the first bracelet Cartier has offered for its high-end men’s watches in some time, and hopefully it won’t be the last. As for the cho...
Worn & Wound
Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Take on the Integrated Bracelet Steel Sports Watch
There’s no denying the recent surge of popularity around integrated bracelet stainless steel sports watches in the market. Genta-designed icons like the AP Royal Oak and Patek Phillipe’s Nautilus have never fetched higher prices. But why leave all the fun to those who can most likely afford their own private island? Citizen’s Tsuyosa packs a ton of style and functionality into a watch that costs well under $500 – something you don’t have to take out a mortgage to enjoy. We’re thrilled to have this much-anticipated release in the shop, so let’s take a closer look at these colorful, fun, and affordable offerings from Citizen. There’s no denying the recent surge of popularity around integrated bracelet stainless steel sports watches in the market. Genta-designed icons like the AP Royal Oak and Patek Phillipe’s Nautilus have never fetched higher prices. But why leave all the fun to those who can most likely afford their own private island? Citizen’s Tsuyosa packs a ton of style and functionality into a watch that costs well under $500 – something you don’t have to take out a mortgage to enjoy. We’re thrilled to have this much-anticipated release in the shop, so let’s take a closer look at these colorful, fun, and affordable offerings from Citizen. The post Now in the Shop: Citizen’s Take on the Integrated Bracelet Steel Sports Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
4 Gold Dress Watches for the Classic Gentleman: Yes, Gold Dress Watches Still Exist. Gentlemen on the Other Hand are Much Rarer – Reprise
Gold dress watches sometimes seem to be on the brink of extinction, and Martin Green was almost ready to write their obituary. However, they do still exist and here he presents us with four classic gold dress watches for the consideration of the discerning modern-day, yet classically inclined, gentleman.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A German Dive Watch, A Limited-Edition TAG Heuer Dato, And A Zenith Made For The Rolling Stones
A curated selection of what the Hodinkee Shop has to offer.
Deployant
Review: the new Horage Lensman 2 Exposure
In this balanced review of the Horage Lensman 2 Exposure watch, we explore its innovative features, including the exposure calculator function, dual material case construction, and the K2 micro-rotor movement. We also discuss the competitive landscape and introduce the Brian Griffin Special Edition. Find out more about this unique timepiece that merges the realms of watchmaking and photography.
Time+Tide
The colourful Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic and Classics Premiere
The Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic collection has been expanded with three new light colours With their sporty versatility and summery colour schemes, they could be considered affordable alternatives for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 The Classics Premiere collection has also been announced in limited numbers, with traditional looks in an elegant case Often when discussing … ContinuedThe post The colourful Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic and Classics Premiere appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon: Grand Seiko Unleashed
The Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon is a full manifestation of the precision excellence one finds at Grand Seiko. It is also a tacit indication that there should be no doubt in any aficionado’s mind whether Grand Seiko belongs in the top tier of haute horology.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – D.O. Kasdan
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader D.O. Kasdan brings us a collection we appreciate for its straightforward, no fuss approach and willingness to embrace options off the beaten path. Each of these watches are as capable as they are stylish and unique, with plenty of options for customization. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. My collection spans from regular G-Shock to GO, with plenty of oddities from Piaget, Omega, and Seiko, amongst others. While I would probably never get down to just a three watch collection, this is a good exercise in figuring out how to cover all the bases and still feel like you have something interesting to offer. For this group, I wanted to make sure it maximized functionality with some style. Damasko DC82 – $2,300 This is a rugged chronograph that does not require reading glasses to use effectively. Beyond the Damasko technologies and design, it is very wearable and can be brightened up with straps or custom ordering for hand color and bezel configuration. Grand Seiko SBGP015 – $2,350 Dressy but not formal, this HAQ with jump hour hand adjustment is great for travel, business, or even casual wear with sufficient 200M WR. The ceramic bezel might not be for everyone, but it works with the angular case and bracelet to give a glimpse of the many things that Grand Seiko can do in one coherent package. Wolbrook/Douglas Skindiver Automat...
Worn & Wound
The Roundup: Gifts Perfect For Dad
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. This week, we’re focusing on gifts for Dad with Father’s Day coming up around the corner. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up for that special Father in your life! The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. This week, we’re focusing on gifts for Dad with Father’s Day coming up around the corner. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up for that special Father in your life! The post The Roundup: Gifts Perfect For Dad appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Oris Celebrates their Anniversary with the Latest Hölstein Edition Release: An Aquis with a Bold Purple Dial
Every year, Oris releases a limited edition watch on June 1 to celebrate their birthday. These Hölstein Editions run the gamut: last year’s was a somewhat wild blast from the past, and the year before saw a sober but very attractive rendition of their popular Big Crown Pointer Date. This year, Oris is tackling the Aquis, which makes its Hölstein Edition debut. As you’d expect, being an anniversary edition, there are a handful of twists that separate this Aquis from others in the collection. First, the obvious. This dial is purple, folks. I feel like I’ve been banging the purple drum for a long time. We’ve clearly reached a point, probably months ago, where this is the color of the moment. A look back at new releases over the last year or so reveals plenty of evidence that we’re in the midst of peak purple, and that’s totally fine by me, especially as we enter the summer months. But this is the first time I can recall seeing a purple dial from Oris, and it looks great on the Aquis. This is a platform that plays particularly well with color – the deep red (and diamond set) Aquis remains a Watches & Wonders favorite. The purple theme is extended to the caseback, where instead of a typical exhibition window, we get a full color Oris bear, wearing his diving gear, against a bright purple background. You’ll also find the limited edition number as well as a “Hölstein Edition” designation on the caseback. Like the ProPilot X Kermit Edition released a few...
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091
Since its relaunch last year, King Seiko has emerged as something of a budget-friendly alternative to Grand Seiko with its straightforward, vintage-inspired designs. Continuing in the same direction are the latest additions to the line, the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091. Most notably, the new models boast a slimmer case compared to their predecessors, thanks to the higher-end cal. 6L35 inside. Despite the tweaks, both retain retro styling that pays homage to the King Seiko “KSK” from 1965. Initial thoughts While last year’s King Seiko models were executed well, I felt they were missing something, particularly in terms of case proportions. They were a little too thick for a vintage-style watch. Therefore, a slimmer version with the more precise cal. 6L35 movement is welcome. The new King Seiko remains conservative in style and almost a vintage remake. However, the case is significantly slimmer at 10.7 mm, compared to over 12 mm for last year’s model. This was achieved with a flattened “box” sapphire crystal and a redesigned case middle with thinner lugs, giving it dimensions better suited to the design. The SJE091 The only drawback is the price of US$3,300, which is almost double last year’s King Seiko models. While the difference is justified by the improved movement and better case proportions, it might be tough to stomach given the stylistic similarity between the two. A slimmer case The new additions are modelled on the “KSK” model of 1965. They have ...