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REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver WatchAdvice
Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Oct 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver

We go hands-on with the newly released Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch to see how heritage and tradition meet modern-day needs! What We Love: The textured dial and 3D markers add depth to the watch High legibility making time reading easy The easy-wearing ergonomic design What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is still lacking in finesse Crown placement at not quite 4 o’clock seems off-balance The closed caseback hides what would be a nice-looking movement inside Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Seiko has been on a bit of a walk down memory lane with many of their releases this year, looking back at the old vintage models from the 1960s and ’70s as inspiration and reviving some of these pieces for modern-day customers. It seems that this is a little bit of a trend currently, and has accelerated over the last few years with people looking for different pieces to place on their wrists. Many brands in the watch world have gone down this path, and it does make for some great vintage homage or revival pieces and a slight break away from the norm. Seiko has some great heritage pieces, and with their latest release, Seiko has gone back over 50 years to 1968, just three years after their very first dive watch and re-incarnated it in 2024 in the form of the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver, with a black dial and white dial variant to choose from. First Impressions We had ...

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It’s Official: LVMH is a Formula 1 Sponsor Starting 2025 SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton TAG Heuer Oct 3, 2024

It’s Official: LVMH is a Formula 1 Sponsor Starting 2025

Having been a fait accompli since the summer, LVMH is now a key sponsor of Formula 1. Starting in 2025, the 10-year sponsorship deal will see the French luxury group become a top-level sponsor of F1. Several LVMH brands will be part of the sponsorship, including Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, and its drinks division Moët Hennessy that owns champagne makers like Moët & Chandon. Coming just after Louis Vuitton’s high-profile presence at the 2024 Paris Olympics, the F1 sponsorship deepens the group’s involvement in sports and popular culture. Spearheaded by Frederic Arnault, the head of LVMH Watches, the deal is worth about €100 million annually according to an LVMH insider. “For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1…”, said Mr Arnault, “We want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world.” From left to right: Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1; Greg Maffei, President & CEO, Liberty Media; Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO, LVMH Group; and Frédéric Arnault, CEO, LVMH Watches LVMH takes the place of Rolex as a “Global Partner” of Formula 1, the highest-level of sponsorship, putting the group alongside Amazon and Aramco. The deal was sealed as Formula 1’s owner, American entertainment giant Liberty Media, has successfully grown F1 beyond its traditional audience with new race locations like Las Vegas, a hit Netflix reality series, and an upcoming movie starring Brad...

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Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen Worn & Wound
Zenith Launches their Third Limited Oct 2, 2024

Zenith Launches their Third Limited Edition with Susan G. Komen

Zenith, for the third year in a row, has joined forces with Susan G. Komen, the world’s leading nonprofit breast cancer organization, on a limited edition watch meant to highlight the work Susan G. Komen is doing and raise money for the organization. Last year saw Zenith release a Chronomaster Sport with a light pink dial, and this year’s follow up brings the same aesthetic to the Defy Skyline.  Zenith’s efforts with Susan G. Komen are part of their larger HORIZ-ON initiative, which is a company-wide commitment to “corporate social responsibility.” These initiatives run the gamut and occur all over the world, touching local communities and broader swaths of the population. The ongoing partnership with Susan G. Komen represents “One of the key pillars of ZENITH’s HORIZ-ON initiative,” according to Zenith CEO Benoit de Clerck. The new Defy Skyline Pink is a limited edition of 100 pieces and uses the new 41mm Skyline case (in steel) as the canvas. The Defy, in my opinion, continues to be one of the most underrated sports watch lines in production at the moment. The collection has a long and fascinating heritage, with some truly innovative and provocative design in its past, and it still represents the most forward thinking arm of the Zenith brand today. The Skyline, in its relatively short history, has already proven itself to be a worthy modern successor to the great Defy references of the past.  For this pink dialed limited edition, we get all the hallmark...

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Worth the Cost: Smythson Notebooks Worn & Wound
Oct 2, 2024

Worth the Cost: Smythson Notebooks

With the new school year in full swing, I’ve been reminded by my nephews and nieces just how much fun buying school supplies can be. I’m sure there is a direct correlation between my love of buying random notebooks before the school year began and my current job in the luxury pen industry (even though the line is a bit jagged, by way of dropping out of law school, working as a timeshare salesman, and a food blogger for a few years).  But the collateral damage of my occupation has meant that I have a bit more of a discerning – read: judgmental – eye about stationery. Sure, I’m not going to tell my seven-year-old nephew that his composition notebook is the worst type of paper for fountain pens and is prone to tearing and bleeding…but I am thinking it. You see, it’s hard to appreciate these annual, almost Proustian moments this time of year now that I’ve been exposed to higher quality journals over the past few years. If there is anyone to blame, it would be Smythson for this chip I have on my shoulder. The British company, who has been making luxury stationery since 1887, is by all accounts a brand that puts craftsmanship, heritage, and aesthetics into every product – and once you’ve had the best, it’s hard to go back. History of Smythson With London heritage evident in nearly every aspect of Smythson – from their branding to products to cheeky little sayings on notebooks – it’s evident how steeped the brand has been in British culture since its ...

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Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up Fratello
Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up Oct 2, 2024

Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up

Every once in a while, you see a watch that raises more questions than it can answer. The Nomos Tangente 2date is such a watch. The biggest question is, “Why?” Since an answer isn’t immediately at hand, more and more questions arise. Is this a watch that can keep track of two different dates? Is […] Visit Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up to read the full article.

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First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Oct 2, 2024

First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds

While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]

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Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up Oct 2, 2024

Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction

Let’s start with some perspective: fewer than 700 human beings have ever been to space. Of them, only 24 went to the Moon. And of those 24, only 12 set foot on its rocky surface. Edgar Mitchell was number six. Most wore NASA-issued Speedmasters, which are property of the US government and will not be […] Visit Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction to read the full article.

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Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling B01 Oct 2, 2024

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph

The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone.  When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...

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Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Oct 1, 2024

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph

Lorca, founded just about two years ago by New York City based watch enthusiast and recording artist Jesse Marchant, has unveiled their second watch. The new watch, the appropriately named Model No.2, is a follow up to the GMT we looked at in the early months of 2023, and subsequently developed a cult-like following among many discerning vintage watch aficionados. Lorca taps into something that is tough to put your finger on, but is nevertheless kind of obvious when you have one in hand. They could be vintage watches if you didn’t know any better – they are sized to feel like true mid century timepieces. But at the same time, they could really only be born out of the experiences of a present day collector and enthusiast, someone who cares about the little details enough to put them front and center on his idiosyncratic designs.  The Model No.2 is a chronograph that is immediately linked thematically with the Model No.1 GMT thanks to its vintage inspired size (it measures 37mm) and ornate details. It’s a sports watch, for sure, but it veers strongly toward the elegant end of the spectrum. This does not feel like a “tool watch” to me at all, in spite of its rather robust properties that are, frankly, fairly standard these days with any modern watch, no matter the style.  The design cue that will likely stand out most prominently to those who encounter the Model No.2 is the bezel, which has a guilloche pattern consisting of very fine straight lines engraved in som...

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design Oct 1, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Prioritizes Classic Design with Recent Updates to the Reverso

There is something incredibly satisfying about good design. Sure, this may seem like a basic statement; but, in the world we live in today, maybe it isn’t. So much of the watch market now relies on a steady IV drip of collaborations, bright colors, and sometimes novelty capabilities that classic design can feel like a sorbet course after a particularly heavy meal. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute line-up is that for me. Longtime readers may know that I’m quite fond of the classic Cartier Tank, and it wouldn’t be a stretch of the imagination to say the Reverso is cut from the same cloth. First created in the 1930’s as a watch that could withstand being beaten up during polo matches (can you think of a more 1% sentence?), the Reverso has now become a cult classic of sorts for, of course, its beauty – but also the fun tactility of the reversible case. While there have been many iterations of the Reverso collection, the latest in their Tribute line really show the sophistication and engineering know-how from the brand. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute collection features three new references to ogle: the Reverso Tribute Monoface, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon (in steel), and the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (in pink gold). With three personalities to introduce you to, I’ll go through each separately. The first thing to notice about the Reverso Tribute Monoface is its size. Designed to be more in-line with the original Reverso from 1931, coming...

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First Look – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy “White Star” Monochrome
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy Oct 1, 2024

First Look – The New Oris Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy “White Star”

Unquestionably one of the best-selling models at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced after a period of dormancy in 2015 with its vintage appeal and ancestor’s traits practically intact. A year later, Oris revisited its Divers Sixty-Five in a limited edition with a larger 42mm diameter and a bronze case dedicated to Carl Brashear with a […]

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First Look – The New Ice-Blue, Europe-Only Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19 Monochrome
Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19 Released Oct 1, 2024

First Look – The New Ice-Blue, Europe-Only Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19

Released in 2021, the Presage Style60’s was positioned as Seiko‘s vision of a casual, all-rounder-oriented and vintage-inspired watch. Far from the classism of the Craftsmanship Series or the funky colours of the Cocktail models, this collection was loosely based on the 1964 Crown watch, Japan’s first wrist chronograph – hence the sporty touch of this […]

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Fratello On Air: Is In-House In The Outhouse? Fratello
Oct 1, 2024

Fratello On Air: Is In-House In The Outhouse?

Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the increasing number of claims about movement production and wonder whether it all truly matters. “In-house,” “in-house-designed,” and “third-party” are only some explanations we hear about movements and their origin. It’s gotten a bit nutty! For our listeners, there’s horology content interspersed initially, […] Visit Fratello On Air: Is In-House In The Outhouse? to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19 Fratello
Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Oct 1, 2024

Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19

Here in the Netherlands, it seems the cusp of winter is upon us. Last week, we were still enjoying the summer weather in T-shirts and shorts. Right now, though, I’m wearing jeans, a shirt, and a merino wool vest, and I’m still cold. We simply skipped the fall season completely and went from 25 degrees […] Visit Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19 to read the full article.

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Introducing – Seiko Teams Up with Porter Classic, Bringing the Laurel-Inspired Black Enamel Presage SPB449 Monochrome
Seiko Teams Up Oct 1, 2024

Introducing – Seiko Teams Up with Porter Classic, Bringing the Laurel-Inspired Black Enamel Presage SPB449

While collaborations between watch manufacturers and lifestyle-oriented brands have been a thing for the past years, it’s not often that Seiko teams up with an external designer or fashion brand. We’ve seen multiple collaborations in the Seiko 5 Sports collection, but with Presage, this is more surprising. And even more surprising than the joint work […]

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Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe before establishing his own Oct 1, 2024

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph

A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...

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First Look – A New Closed Salmon Dial For The Bovet Dimier Récital 15 Monochrome
Bovet Sep 30, 2024

First Look – A New Closed Salmon Dial For The Bovet Dimier Récital 15

In Bovet’s cosmos of extravagant complications, dramatic staging and lavish decorative flourishes, the new Dimier Récital 15 looks positively demure. Unlike earlier editions produced by Bovet since its release in 2014, the mechanisms powering the jumping hours, retrograde minutes and double-second complications are not revealed on the dial, which is now interpreted in a lovely […]

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Introducing the Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph Worn & Wound
Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph When Sep 30, 2024

Introducing the Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph

When I think of Louis Erard, two things tend to spring to mind: regulators and collaborations. As a brand, they have mastered each of these, and they have contributed to some of my favorite releases in recent years (the brand’s whimsical collaborations with Alain Silberstein spring to mind as a high watermark). The consequence of this success is it can be easy to ignore the other things Louis Erard does well. With the new Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph, the brand is trying to remind us. When compared with mother-of-pearl dialed regulators, this latest trio of limited edition sports watches - each of which will be available in a “99-piece limited edition numbered in multiples of 3” - is a more down-the-middle release than we’re used to seeing from Louis Erard. But as one might expect from the brand, a closer look will reveal Louis Erard’s signature touch. On its surface, the 2300 Sport Chronograph is a fairly by-the-number Valjoux 7750-powered sports chronograph, with a large case (44mm across, 52.4mm lug-to-lug, and 15mm thick in well-finished Grade 5 Titanium) reminiscent of straight-lug Speedies and Carreras, a black ceramic bezel, and the very familiar 6-9-12 layout with day and date that most often accompanies the iconic movement. But the signature Louis Erard touch is there and, as with so many of their other watches, the magic here comes with the dial. When you take a moment to step back and think about it, chronograph dials - with their multiple ...

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Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner – What’s in a name? Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tudor Black Bay vs Rolex Sep 30, 2024

Tudor Black Bay vs. Rolex Submariner – What’s in a name?

As I explained in my last piece, I am something of a Black Bay collector myself (picture the meme), having fallen for the 79220N Heritage Black Bay in 2015. Prior to this, however, I had already decided two years previously that I would buy a Rolex Submariner one day, somehow. Today, I want to focus on the 79220N Heritage Black Bay, the 79000N Black Bay 54 and the 124060 Submariner in my collection.

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Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph Fratello
Sep 30, 2024

Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph

It’s been roughly 18 months since Lorca founder Jesse Marchant unveiled his debut watch. Praised by the press and enthusiasts alike, the Model No.1 GMT presented a unique take on a multi-time watch. Instead of following the typical GMT category codes, Marchant created a watch much more characterized by its overall vintage-inspired elements. The result […] Visit Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph to read the full article.

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First Look – The Dashing Black & Golden Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Sep 30, 2024

First Look – The Dashing Black & Golden Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

Named after the famous British explorer, Rado’s 1962 Captain Cook was the brand’s first dive watch with an impressive depth rating of 220 metres. Produced in very low numbers, the Captain Cook drifted off the map in 1968. With its consolidated reputation for high-tech streamlined ceramic watches, Rado took a surprising tack in 2017 by […]

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Introducing: The Formex Stratos UTC - Formex’s Clever Take On A Pilot’s Watch Fratello
Formex Stratos UTC - Formex’s Sep 30, 2024

Introducing: The Formex Stratos UTC - Formex’s Clever Take On A Pilot’s Watch

Formex is arguably one of the most underrated watch brands out there. If you have had the chance to handle any of Formex’s watches, you know they are very well-made spec monsters at sharp prices. Today, the brand releases its take on a pilot’s watch with the Formex Stratos UTC. The big news? The Formex […] Visit Introducing: The Formex Stratos UTC - Formex’s Clever Take On A Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

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