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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.
Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Nov 18, 2025

Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose

Today, Parmigiani Fleurier announces a new variant of the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante. The Arctic Rose continues to display how the upscale brand masters color and shares new hues on its watches. This is a watch with a decidedly practical complication housed in a luxurious form. Let’s take a brief look. My close acquaintances all […] Visit Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Updated Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Collection Fratello
Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Nov 17, 2025

Introducing: The Updated Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Collection

Today, we’ll take a brief look at an exciting set of updated releases. The new Certina DS Action Diver 38mm collection continues as one of the best values around and now adds a ceramic bezel. A host of dial colors and case materials come along for the ride. Let’s get to it! While we bemoan […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Certina DS Action Diver 38mm Collection to read the full article.

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Review: The King Of Ultra Thin Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Bulgari Nov 16, 2025

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Review: The King Of Ultra Thin Watches

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo collection has been a presence in the larger luxury-watch universe for just slightly over a decade now, but its impact has been tremendous - blazing trails of ultra-thinness in watchmaking that few brands have attempted and fewer have even attempted to rival. Today, the Octo Finissimo, in its simplest and most complex iterations, is regarded by enthusiasts as the creative cornerstone of the Bulgari brand, which up until very recently has been known more for high-jewelry watches than ambitious, record-setting mechanical complications. Here’s how the Octo Finissimo became an icon in 10 short years - starting from the very beginning.  [toc-section heading="Bulgari History (1884-1934)"] Sotirios Voulgaris, the only survivor of 11 children from a family of silversmiths in the Greek town of Paramythia, was born in 1857 and learned the family craft from his father, making jewelry as well as sword sheaths and belt buckles. After Ottoman invaders set fire to the town in 1873, the family moved to the Isle of Corfu, where Voulgaris met the man who’d become his mentor, Macedonian goldsmith Demetrios Kremos. The two artisans decided to start a business in Italy, settling first in Naples, and eventually in Rome, where they opened their first shop in 1884. After just a few months, however, the partnership ended and Voulgaris - who had now changed his name to the more Italianate “Sotirio Bulgari” - opened up his own shop, which found success sel...

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Fratello On Air: The Best Modern Watches Are Still Five-Digit Rolex Fratello
Rolex Welcome back Nov 14, 2025

Fratello On Air: The Best Modern Watches Are Still Five-Digit Rolex

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we chat about the legendary five-digit Rolex era and how it’s probably the greatest collection of modern watches. We discuss why and mention some of our favorite models. Enjoy the show! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change […] Visit Fratello On Air: The Best Modern Watches Are Still Five-Digit Rolex to read the full article.

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The Wild Watches of German Polosin SJX Watches
Nov 14, 2025

The Wild Watches of German Polosin

The Kopf watch is the brainchild of German Polosin, a self-taught independent watchmaker who left Moscow for Bristol, England, where he runs Horological Underground. Conceived in 2016 and still in (limited) production today, the Kopf watch embodies the belief that a watch should be a form of mechanical sculpture. Its design feels more cybernetic than classical, combining an anthropomorphic ‘face’ with a hinged, jaw-like crown guard, hammered metal surfaces, and tritium-lit eyes. While the Kopf’s aesthetic recalls science-fiction icons like The Iron Giant or Futurama’s Bender, its construction reflects a deeply traditional craft ethos. In terms of style, German Polosin is far removed from the biker or heavy metal aesthetics one might expect from the creator of the Kopf watch. Initial thoughts It’s been more than six years since I first saw the Kopf while visiting German Polosin, the Russian [now English] independent watchmaker, who was still working in Moscow at the time. I was impressed that from the outset, the concept behind the Kopf watch was to express the art of metalworking. In this respect, he shares similarities with another independent watchmaker, the Finn Stepan Sarpaneva, who drew inspiration from biker subculture for his own creations. Mr. Polosin conceives watches as mechanical sculptures, with their shape and finish reflecting their functionality: “I would love to see it finished like… a Beretta or a Desert Eagle.” Kopf watch – the aesthetic...

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Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Illuminates Nov 13, 2025

Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière

The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière builds on the success of the original Bel Canto, which earned praise for being one of the most accessible chiming watches on the market. Its open-worked hour striker module remains the star of the show, combining a tidy architectural layout with a distinctive acoustic signature that sets it apart from anything else in its price segment. The Lumière keeps that mechanical drama intact but takes a futuristic turn with a smoked sapphire dial, luminous blue-green chapter ring, and a matching rubber strap that glows in the dark. The new execution gives the watch a distinctly modern, almost Tron-like character, yet it remains faithful to the core idea that made the Bel Canto a hit: offering a well finished, technically interesting hour striker at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts The Bel Canto made waves upon its release for being a visually dynamic hour striker at a price well below the norm for this complication. Not only cost effective, the hour striker module is neatly designed and well organised on the dial. In this respect, the Bel Canto exceeded previous attempts at making this complication affordable. In other words, it looks as good as it sounds. The last time we saw new dials for the Bel Canto, the brand went the traditional route with laser-etched guilloché and Roman numerals. This time, the Christopher Ward (CW) is going the other way, with a futuristic luminous treatment that extends to the rubber strap, encircling the wr...

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First Look – The New Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur, The Return of the Brand’s Jumping Hour Guichet Watch Monochrome
Chronoswiss Nov 12, 2025

First Look – The New Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur, The Return of the Brand’s Jumping Hour Guichet Watch

Chronoswiss has always moved in its own rhythm. From the regulator wristwatches that defined its 1980s identity to today’s bold Lucerne-built timepieces, the brand has never shied away from doing things differently. Few statements were as radical as the Digiteur, a watch without hands, powered by a mechanical calibre, yet read like an early digital […]

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Introducing: The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Sand And Granit - Two Homage “Montres Sans Aiguilles” In Steel Fratello
Chronoswiss Nov 12, 2025

Introducing: The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Sand And Granit - Two Homage “Montres Sans Aiguilles” In Steel

In 2005, the Chronoswiss Digiteur MSA (Montre Sans Aiguilles) was a modern homage to the jump-hour watches of the 1920s and 1930s; today, it’s a reinterpretation of that 21st-century homage. The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Sand and Granit are watches without hands, featuring an updated look in stainless steel - the original Digiteurs were all made […] Visit Introducing: The Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Sand And Granit - Two Homage “Montres Sans Aiguilles” In Steel to read the full article.

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Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier Teddy Baldassarre
Cartier Nov 10, 2025

Les Must de Cartier: The Misunderstood Entry-Level Cartier

The Cartier of today is undeniably a symbol of luxury and has strategically manufactured that imagery. From its quintessential deep red boxes with gold filigree border to its looping cursive script, even before you get to the object itself, whether it be jewelry or a watch, the brand has carefully crafted the entire experience of its product to position it as such. But today, we’re taking a look at an anomaly in the maison’s past, for which Cartier descended from its luxurious heights to extend its hand to the mass market. Les Must de Cartier is representative of a pivotal time in the history of watchmaking, and its contrasting accessibility played a crucial role in the maison’s longevity and its ability to weather shifting market trends. Down below, I’ll be walking you through how Must de Cartier came to be, some significant design codes, how the line has reemerged after its discontinuation, and share some musings and philosophical ponderings about this strange chapter in Cartier’s history.    Les Must de Cartier Context From its relatively humble beginnings as a local, artisanal jewelry workshop in 1847, by the turn of the 20th century, Cartier had already established itself as a global luxury powerhouse, operating in London, New York, and Paris by 1909. Each independent branch of Cartier at this time was operated by a trio of Louis-François Cartier’s grandsons, and while they often collaborated, each location developed its own unique flair and catered to ...

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Review: Looking Forward (and Back) with the Vario Futurist Worn & Wound
Nov 10, 2025

Review: Looking Forward (and Back) with the Vario Futurist

Time travel doesn’t exist. I mean, maybe they did crack that code deep in an underground bunker on the east end of Long Island between the 1950s and 1980s during what’s known as the Montauk Project. Our civilian watch enthusiast selves will never know the truth. Admittedly, I’ve been rewatching The X-Files a little bit too much lately and recently camped out in the Camp Hero parking lot to do some fishing. Fortunately (I have ZERO desire to mess with that) the closest we can get to time travel is courtesy of watch brands like Vario. They’re making some seriously cool, vintage-inspired pieces that hit on nostalgic elements of classic watches while providing all the convenience of modern construction, movements, and water resistance. Really, you’re getting the best of both worlds – vintage looks paired with modern construction. Today, we’re looking at the Futurist. A new watch from the Singapore-based brand that features a 39mm case, old-school faceted crystal, and a unique crown position that really got me thinking about why the default position is somewhere around 3 o’clock. Let’s take a closer look at this green-dialed stunner.  Case The first thing I noticed about the Futurist is the lack of traditional crown placement. No, there’s no crown at 3 or even 4 o’clock. It’s positioned at the top of the case, nestled between the lugs at 12 o’clock. The wide, flat crown has textured edges that make it easy to manipulate. Simply pull it out, set the ti...

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