Deployant
New: Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597: full details and price
Breguet releases a new member to the Tradition family with an open worked movement and a retrograde date - the Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597.
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Deployant
Breguet releases a new member to the Tradition family with an open worked movement and a retrograde date - the Breguet Tradition Quantieme Retrograde 7597.
The Tradition Collection's newest member offers a date complication with a twist.
Time+Tide
Cycling is a sport known for its speed and the dramatic risks that cyclists will take to win races. Every time the Tour de France is raced, there is almost guaranteed to be a handful of big crashes involving dozens of riders, leaving bikes and equipment often damaged beyond repair. That’s why it was a … ContinuedThe post Tour de France cyclist spotted racing with a $168,000 Richard Mille on his wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The duo's sportiest watch to date.
Quill & Pad
Following the successful launch of 2019's new diver’s collection, which according to Glashütte Original was exceptionally well received, the brand added new 2020 variations of the SeaQ and SeaQ Panorama Date in red gold and two-tone cases and then two new stainless steel variations, one of which is quite unexpected.
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SJX Watches
Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...
SJX Watches
Unveiled just a day ago, the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 6007A “New Manufacture 2019” is a commemorative edition for the completion of the brand’s huge headquarters in Geneva. Though it is a just time-and-date watch, the ref. 6007A has a few interesting details that set it apart from the typical Calatrava, and all the details come together nicely for a refreshingly modern – and expensive – Calatrava. While the launch of the ref. 6007A was largely a surprise, in some other ways it wasn’t. When Patek Philippe debuted the Calatrava ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar a year ago, it was a quirky outlier amidst the formality of the Calatrava line. But insiders revealed that the Weekly Calendar was a hint about the Calatrava’s future. While endowed with such a long history that “Calatrava” is almost a synonym for a thin, classical dress watch, the Calatrava line was getting old fashioned. Featuring hand-writing inspired markings on the dial, the Weekly Calendar marked a new design direction for the line. At the same time, the Calatrava collection has been trimmed significantly, leaving just four men’s Calatrava references (the refs. 5196, 5227, 5297, and 6006), and now the ref. 6007A. The Calatrava ref. 6007A “New Manufacture 2019” The Calatrava ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar Initial thoughts I like the look of the ref. 6007A. It doesn’t look like yet another silver-dial dress watch, which makes is especially appealing for anyone who already has a silver-dial d...
Time+Tide
You’ve screwed up. Big time. Worse still, your partner has found out and they mad as all hell. To get their own back, said partner embarks on a demented spending spree on your joint credit card in order to punish you for your (latest) transgression. That’s what most people think “revenge spending” means. But they’re … ContinuedThe post What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s been another big week of Covid-19 era life here at Time+Tide, with Zoom calls with the Girard-Perregaux HQ (up to 90 people joined in at its peak) to join in on, a live chat with Wei Koh of Revolution and the CEO of DOXA watches to discuss our involvement in the Covid-19 Solidarity Auction … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Revolution and The Rake are kicking Covid’s arse, the Seiko modding craze and *eggplant emoji * appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While Corum’s high-end watchmaking is typically associated with the tiny Golden Bridge movement, the brand’s latest creation is a surprisingly intriguing calibre with a novel construction. The Lab 02 is a tourbillon with vertical power reserve and double-disc date – entirely constructed as a “flying”, or “floating”, movement. Almost all of the wheels are secured only on one side, leaving them seemingly suspended in midair. Initial thoughts The Lab 02 has a genuinely interesting movement inside. A “flying” construction is not new, but it is usually applied to a key parts, like the barrel or tourbillon, for aesthetic effect or to keep the movement as slim as possible. Here the whole movement is flying, which results in a strikingly airy mechanical landscape. In fact, the Lab 02 is essentially a more complex execution of the concept behind the Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Because of its construction, the movement is large, which means the watch is huge – 45 mm wide and 13.4 mm high. But it is a necessity due to the mechanics and probably enhances the visual effect of the movement construction. Harder to swallow is the price of 180,00 Swiss francs that puts the Lab 02 in a price segment where many well-established haute horlogerie brands compete. That’s especially so given the movement finishing appears adequate (neat and clean but mostly done with mechanical means) rather than excellent. Admittedly, most other watches in the price segme...
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Time+Tide
“Consumers have demonstrated an appetite to shift away from traditional ownership to newer ways in which to access product.” That was the intro of the “End of Ownership” chapter in “The State of Fashion 2019”, a detailed report by the Business of Fashion and global management consultants McKinsey. The chapter outlined one of the big … ContinuedThe post Rent a Rolex Submariner now for $299 a month – will luxury watch rentals ever take off? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A staple of Blancpain line-up since the brand was reestablished in the early 1980s, the extra-slim Villeret wristwatch is stripped to the bare essentials but classically-styled, and it’s now available in stainless steel, and also red gold. Understated and thin, the Villeret Ultraplate 6224 is an automatic three-hander with a date display, and just over 8 mm thick, hence the name – ultra plate translates as “ultra flat”. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of classic dress watches like the Patek Philippe Calatrava and the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, the Villeret Ultraplate is a simple design that’s easy to replicate, which is why similar styles can be found in cheap as well as expensive watches. What differentiates such watches is the quality of execution, particularly in the details. The dial of the Villeret Ultraplate is unadorned, and almost plain, but the Roman numerals are solid gold appliqués affixed to the dial by hand, adding much-needed height and texture to an otherwise flat dial. The slender, open-worked leaf hands also complement the simplicity of the design. Such hands are not overly common, making them appealing. And then there’s the date. While it adds extra utility that is appreciated by some, I am not a fan. The date hampers the purity and symmetry of the dial. With a retail price of a bit over US$8,000 in steel, the Villeret Ultraplate is competitively priced for a dress watch powered by a high-end, automatic movement. Extra-thin The case is ...
Quill & Pad
The auction world is in some disarray right now, but the 2020 Dr. Crott spring auction in Mannheim, Germany will take place online and/or in place with a date moved from the usual May position to June 29, 2020 at noon CET. Elizabeth Doerr shares eight of her highlights here.
SJX Watches
Phillips’ first-ever online watch auction, Refresh:Reload is a cross-category affair, encompassing watches, jewellery, and contemporary art. The week-long sale includes over 50 watches, ranging from the usual suspects like Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Submariner, but also a selection of more interesting, unconventional watches, like a De Bethune DB12 chronograph with oversized date and month, and an extra-thin, skeletonised Seiko Credor. Here are a couple of highlights from the sale, which is online from now till 6 pm (GMT+8) on May 28. The entire catalogue is available here. Lot 5 – Bronze Hourglass by Daniel Arsham One of the earliest lots in the auction is a sculpture with a horological element. The Bronze Hourglass was an edition of 100 examples commissioned by watch retailer The Hour Glass to mark its 40th anniversary in 2019. It’s the work of Daniel Arsham, one of today’s hottest contemporary artists. Mr Arsham is best known for his “eroded” works, objects made to appear heavily aged. Some of his work sits the crossroads between art and luxury goods – he’s applied his unique aesthetic to Rimowa luggage, Dior bags, and also a Porsche 911. The Bronze Hourglass has an estimate of HK$35,000-45,000, or about US$4,500-6,000. Lot 92 – Seiko Credor 40th Anniversary Signo Cherry Blossoms A limited edition made to mark the 40th anniversary of Seiko’s Credor collection, the Signo Cherry Blossoms encapsulates the key specialties of mechanical watchmaking at S...
SJX Watches
Postponed from its usual mid-May date to end-June, Phillips’ spring watch auction is Geneva is nonetheless the full works, with 214 lots on offer, including the four spectacular Patek Philippe watches from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver, including a ref. 1518 “pink on pink” and a second-series ref. 2499. Also amongst the offerings at the Geneva Watch Auction XI are two important examples of contemporary watchmaking – a pair of F.P. Journe souscription watches consigned by the original owner – Lorenz Bäumer. A jeweller whose workshop is on the storied Place Vendome in Paris, Mr Bäumer is perhaps best known for crafted the tiara worn by Charlene Wittstock when the former Olympic swimmer wed Prince Albert II of Monaco in 2011. But Mr Bäumer is also a watch aficionado who met François-Paul Journe via a mutual friend. Mr Journe had then decided to launch his own brand by taking inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet, who had offered clients the opportunity to purchase a newly-developed, fairly-affordable watch by first putting down a deposit – thus “subscribing” to the offer. The jeweller became a “subscriber” and paid the down payment for a Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite “Souscription”, subsequently receiving the watch numbered “14/20” on the dial. A year later, Mr Bäumer was approached once again to “subscribe” for the new Chronomètre à Resonance “Souscription”. He took up the offer, and again got the watch number “14”....
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: For many watch enthusiasts out there, including me, one of the biggest problems we can come across is timepieces that are just too… big. I’ll freely admit it: I’ve got dainty wrists, and yes, it’s a problem. Luckily, though, watchmakers are catching on that there are more than a few individuals like me … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal: Daniel’s Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 45mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The 2020 Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT features two subdials: one for the date at 6 o’clock and one for the home time shown using the brand’s own “escaped numerals” at 9 o’clock. There is also a night-and-day indication for local and home times (L and H). And good news: unlike the original palladium-encased Slim d'Hermès GMT, this gorgeous new release is not limited.
Revolution
Elevated designs and updated movements make the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar and Master Control Date models stand out.
SJX Watches
A mainstay of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s catalogue for almost three decades, the Master Control made its debut in 1992 and has been facelifted every couple of years since. Fresh off the press at Watches & Wonders 2020, the latest Master Control collection forgets the facelifts and is instead throwback to the inaugural line-up of three decades ago. The new range reproduces the models and style of the originals, including the popular, entry-level Master Control Date, but it also includes an all-new model, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. From left: Master Control Date, Master Control Calendar, and Master Control Geographic And the Master Control Chronograph Calendar New tech, classic style While retaining the look of the originals, the new Master Control models are ever-so-slightly larger, now measuring 40 mm (while the 1990s originals were mostly 37 mm). More importantly, the new watches have been fitted with newly-upgraded movements equipped with silicon escapements. The cal. 899AA of the Master Control Date Though JLC has used silicon escapements in the past, most notably in the Master Compressor Extreme LAB 2 and the more recent Tourbillon Celeste, the movements in the new Master Control watches are the first affordable, regular-production models to feature such escapements. The use of silicon pallet levers and escape wheels, coupled with the use of new lubricants and a stronger and longer mainspring, means substantial improvements in operating efficiency, with power ...
Time+Tide
The second of a two part story detailing Michael Jordan's watch collection, including Rolex, Richard Mille, Urwerk and IWC Big Pilot models.The post The watches of Michael Jordan, part 2, including IWC, Richard Mille, Urwerk and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Writing in a manner graceful yet irate, the president of the exhibitors committee of Baselworld – mostly made up of brands that exhibit that the event – has penned a quietly scathing letter to the organisers of Baselworld. [The fair’s response to the letter can be found in the addendum at the end of the article.] The letter, which I received a copy of, expresses the exhibitors’ dissatisfaction at well, everything, from the new date for the event to the proposed refunds for the “postponed” fair, while asking for a refund of fees paid for the cancelled event. Significantly, the letter ends with: “we fear that this will be the end, pure and simple, of Baselworld…”. While on the surface this might seem to be a group of exhibitors pushing back, it is a more nuanced – and perhaps more uplifting – picture. The president of the exhibitors committee, Hubert J. du Plessix, has a day job: head of investments and logistics at Rolex, in addition to being the president of the watchmaker’s pension fund. If there was ever a sterling example of the philosophy “speak softly and carry a big stick” in watchmaking, this is it. Seen in that light, Mr du Plessix, and by extension his employer, are standing up for the little guy: defending the interests of exhibitors who can ill-afford Baselworld even in the best of times, in an attempt to help the wider watch industry that is now on the edge of the precipice. The central atrium of Messe Basel, the convention hall des...
Time+Tide
We’ve tallied up the results from last week’s CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: John Mayer Vs. Ed Sheeran … there’s been an upset, and it’s a big one. I declared the bout, which was mostly a Patek vs Patek punch-up, a win for the longer in the tooth collector that is John Mayer. I marked him … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: John Mayer Vs. Ed Sheeran – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The head of the Zeitwerk manufacturing division, Robert Hoffmann, explain a few things you should know about the new Zeitwerk Date and Zeitwerk.
Quill & Pad
The Naked Watchmaker (TNW), aka Peter Speake-Marin, does a series of deconstructions of a broad selection of modern Breguet watches and movements, starting with the Classique 5177, a relatively simple (for Breguet) three-hand dress watch with date. Here Ian shares a few details that The Naked Watchmaker didn't reveal.
Revolution
Montblanc’s Star Legacy collection sees a big design change today, while the Heritage collection adds new references for 2020.
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