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California Dial

Mixed Roman / Arabic numeral dial: Rolex Bubble Back 1934, Panerai Italian Royal Navy 1939, modern Panerai Radiomir.
Hands-On: the Chronofixe Astérix Worn & Wound
Timex Ironmans were character watches Mar 12, 2025

Hands-On: the Chronofixe Astérix

I’ve always had a bit of a thing for character watches. I know they’re divisive, but a character watch - whether it be a ridiculously expensive Spider-Man AP or a cheap quartz Armitron with a basketball-playing Bugs Bunny on the dial - can help create a shockingly profound connection between a watch and its wearer and be (when done well) a fun reminder not to take watches too seriously. I’ve owned a lot of character watches. Many of my earliest and most favorite childhood watches, if they weren’t Timex Ironmans, were character watches, and even today, I still find myself picking up a character watch here and there, though they rarely stick in my collection for very long. Most find their way to their next owners as gifts - a vintage Snoopy tennis watch went to my mother, while the aforementioned Bugs Bunny Armitron now sits on my younger brother’s wrist most days (though, much to my annoyance, he pointedly refuses to put a battery in it). Still, most of the character watches I’ve owned over the years have found their way into the trash or were lost in various moves or purges because, for as delightful a thing as character watches are, most aren’t that good, at least as watches. To generalize wildly, most character watches I’ve owned have felt, at best, transient and, at worst, disposable (admittedly, I’ve never owned an AP Spider-Man watch, so I can’t speak to that experience). Still, my love for the concept remains, and when a watch comes along t...

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Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech SJX Watches
Blancpain Scales Down Mar 12, 2025

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech

Primarily vintage-inspired, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was given a modern makeover with the first “Tech” model launched in 2023. Now Blancpain follows up with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Ocean Commitment IV. While retaining the same lug-less case, the latest model is more compact and streamlined than its Tech predecessor, though it’s still 45 mm in diameter. And it features an “absolute black” dial - coated with a substance that absorbs 97% of incident light - ensuring maximum contrast for the luminescent hands and block-shaped hour markers. Like earlier Ocean Commitment editions, which were all vintage-inspired, this watch will help support the Blancpain’s marine conservation efforts, specifically the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in Palawan, Philippines. Initial thoughts The new Fifty Fathoms Tech offers notable refinements over the earlier Tech Gombessa edition from two years ago. While the oversized, 47 mm Tech Gombessa was designed primarily as a specialised diving instrument, making it arguably too large for everyday wear, the new model adopts a more conventional dive watch dimensions. At 45 mm, it’s still large but more manageable, improving its wearability. The “absolute black” dial is also an interesting upgrade that makes sense in a dive watch given the need for legibility. While Blancpain doesn’t specify the details of the dial coating, it appears to be similar to Vantablack and other blacker-than-black coatings used by other ...

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Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications SJX Watches
Hermes Mar 11, 2025

Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications

Whimsical and graceful in the typical Hermès style, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune and Arceau Le Temps Voyageur are both unusual takes on familiar complications; the two were incidentally conceived with the aid of Chronode, a complications specialist. Hermès has reworked the palette for both models, most notably with a two-tone case for the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune. This returns as a set of three watches, each featuring a dial made of a specific type of meteorite, namely Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech. All three are housed in a 43 mm case with contrast-colour lugs. The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, on the other hand, is offered separately in two guises: 41 mm in white gold, or 38 mm in rose gold with diamonds. The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune three-piece set Initial thoughts Among Hermès’ whimsical complications, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune stands out as an unconventional and interesting reinterpretation of the simple date-and-moon-phase watch. Unlike traditional moon-phase displays, this employs mobile counters that orbit the dial over a 59-day cycle to reveal the current lunar phase. It’s a large watch and a little thick, but still elegant thanks to the design. The new variants look more modern than their predecessors thanks to the two-tone cases and meteorite dials that sport subtle colour accents that are typically Hermes. The main downside is the fact that the three are delivered as a set, which not only means the cost is high – the set retails for ...

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Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet Fratello
Rolex Sky-Dweller Mar 10, 2025

Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet

Honest question: why do people like the Sky-Dweller? Is it because the travel watch with the Saros annual calendar and Ring Command is a complicated piece of watchmaking? Is it the characteristic dial layout, perhaps? Or is it because if you wear this 42mm watch in precious metal, everybody within a hundred-meter radius will know […] Visit Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet to read the full article.

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Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel SJX Watches
Breitling s Flagship Navitimer B19 Mar 10, 2025

Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel

The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...

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The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Mar 7, 2025

The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]

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The King Seiko Vanac Returns With Integrated Bracelet And Tokyo Inspir Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Mar 6, 2025

The King Seiko Vanac Returns With Integrated Bracelet And Tokyo Inspir

Seiko is releasing a new Vanac collection this week, and with it, a new automatic movement. The Vanac made its first appearance in the King Seiko catalog back in 1972, complete with all the funky design details you’d expect of a watch of this era. A large, prism-like case with flat surfaces, faceted crystals, and highly dynamic dial textures and colors left a big impression, and that’s exactly what Seiko is looking to recapture in modern guise with the new King Seiko Vanac. It’s not a re-issue, but it is a throwback, and one that will look to set a modern foundation, and if it’s anything like its predecessor, we can look forward to plenty of variety to come.  The original Vanac was short lived, but its flame burned brightly, with a wide range of references released, most of which featured bright dials and integrated bracelet designs. Seiko says that the original meaning of the word "Vanac" has been lost to time, so they’ve come up with a modern acronym to suit the modern personality of the new collection: Vibrant; Active; Novel; Alternative; and Comfortable. The message Seiko is trying to convey with this watch is one of innovation, and breaking barriers, and the brand views buyers of this watch as trailblazers and visionary types. Make of that what you will.  The new Vanac picks up where the original left off, with a sharp, angular case boasting large flat surfaces that transition between brushed and polished finishes. This is set to an integrated bracelet tha...

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Seiko Revives the Funky, Facetted King Seiko Vanac SJX Watches
Seiko Revives Mar 6, 2025

Seiko Revives the Funky, Facetted King Seiko Vanac

In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake. Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches. Initial thoughts The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model. Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else. A selection of vintage Vanac watches The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a ...

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Fears and Topper Collaborate Again on the Redcliff 39.5 Burlingame Edition ‘Confetti’ Worn & Wound
Fears Mar 4, 2025

Fears and Topper Collaborate Again on the Redcliff 39.5 Burlingame Edition ‘Confetti’

At first glance, the Fears Redcliff Confetti Burlingame Edition appears to be a classy sport watch with splashes of colorful character. But as the fourth collaboration between the British watchmaker and Topper Jewelers (a family-owned retail store in Burlingame, California, that has long served as a major hub of Bay Area watch enthusiasm) the Confetti isn’t just a tasteful splash of pop-art wrapped in a sleek, dressy package-it’s also a symbol of joy, and an ode to overcoming adversity. The Confetti’s unapologetically exuberant dial motif was hand-drawn by John Caplan just after completing three years of chemotherapy in his fight against Non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma. Caplan’s design was emblematic of the relief and joy both he and his family felt following the conclusion of his treatment: “…I kept thinking about how it would feel to be finally finished [with my three years of chemotherapy],” Caplan says. “My father and I discussed the idea of making something inspirational that would both recognize the journey we’ve gone through as a family and also be a joyful thing to look at…after some experimentation, we presented my hand drawn confetti concept to Nicholas [Bowman-Scargill], and after a few discussions, we all knew that we had something worth developing.” The stand-out pastel blue of the running-seconds hand is John’s favorite color, adding an extra touch of triumph and joy to the center of the Confetti concept. “I love using bright colors in my...

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Havid Nagan Comes of Age with the Classic One SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Mar 3, 2025

Havid Nagan Comes of Age with the Classic One

Having made its debut two years ago with the Schwarz Etienne-powered HN00, Havid Nagan returns with Classic One, a chronometer-certified dress watch with a multi-layered dial. Available in two dial finishes, ebony or ivory, the Classic One takes the nascent brand in a new, more traditional direction. The Havid Nagan brand was launched on Kickstarter in 2019 by Aren Bazerkanian, who at the time was working as Director of Operations at the FP Journe boutique in Los Angeles. One of the guiding principles of Havid Nagan is an emphasis on slimness, which is an obsession that Mr Bazerkanian picked up from his time working for Mr Journe. Initial thoughts The original HN00 and subsequent HN01 were thoughtful and appealing watches, but the Classic One feels like a more mature product. In my opinion, the debut models were a bit overambitious with their proprietary strap system, which, though sleek and attractive, result in the risk of not being able to find replacement straps in the future. The Classic One, on the other hand, is more traditional in its construction, with classic lugs that can accommodate a variety of straps (the watch comes standard with straps from Jean-Rousseau). As a result of being more classical in orientation, the central feature of the Classic One is its multi-part dial with an unusual construction made up of clear sapphire sandwiched by brass discs. Finished with applied Calatrava-style hour markers, the overall effect is dynamic and attractive. In terms of...

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New: Louis Erard Unveils Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Deployant
Louis Erard Unveils Le Régulateur Gravé Mar 1, 2025

New: Louis Erard Unveils Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu

The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu is an example of the brand's commitment to blending tradition with modernity. This timepiece is part of the Noirmont Métiers d'Art collection and features a unique sector dial that pays homage to the 1930s while incorporating contemporary engraving techniques. The newest release comes in a blue dial with white strap.

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Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s 150th Feb 28, 2025

Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th

The centrepiece of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the ingenious perpetual calendar cal. 7138 (at least for now), but the most complicated of the commemorative editions is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. The anniversary line-up of striking watches is comprised of five unique grande sonnerie wristwatches: three have sapphire dials that reveal the intricate strikework, while the remaining pair are fitted with iridescent opal dials. The harlequin opal dial Initial thoughts Though criticised at launch, the Code 11.59 has evolved into a varied range of watches, some of which are notably appealing (some are still pretty boring unfortunately). The grande sonnerie falls into the appealing category. The mechanics of the grande sonnerie are exceptionally complicated, and because it is a Supersonnerie equipped with AP’s patented amplification construction, the grande sonnerie is incredibly loud. The volume of the chimes are loud, but not so much that they are harsh. In short, the acoustics are impressive. The sapphire dial in sand gold case The anniversary edition grande sonnerie are individually appealing, though the opal dials are more interesting due to the novelty of the material. That said, the grande sonnerie can be customised, so a buyer is not necessarily limited to the options available for the anniversary. If I wanted to spend this much on a grande sonnerie, I’d work on my own. The pinnacle of striking watches AP is one...

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The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black SJX Watches
Zenith El Primero 400 another Feb 27, 2025

The Dior Chiffre Rouge Chronograph in High Contrast Red and Black

The latest iteration of Dior’s asymmetrical wristwatch builds on last year’s all-black release. The new Chiffre Rouge Chronograph retains the signature asymmetrical DLC-coated steel case, but adds a striking red-gradient dial adorned with Dior’s trademark geometric pattern. But this is not merely a “fashion watch”, as inside is the Zenith El Primero 400, another example of the group-level movement strategy at LVMH. Initial thoughts Dior has been producing watches since the 1970s, but struggles to resonate with watch enthusiasts, who often dismiss its offerings as “fashion watches” – a challenge faced by other fashion or leather goods makers. The brand has been making “serious” watches on and off over its history, and last year reintroduced a Chiffre Rouge Chronograph powered by the El Primero. While the stark, edgy design of the watch is not for everyone, it is mechanically credible, albeit steeply priced. At US$17,000, the price is definitely more Dior than Zenith. It’s also substantially pricier than last year’s model with the same movement. The value proposition is difficult to justify. A more advanced movement, like Zenith’s latest generation El Primero 3600, would make this more compelling. Red gradient dial The new Chiffre Rouge mirrors last year’s model, retaining the signature cannage-patterned crown and polished bumpers on the right flank. The chief update is the red gradient dial, which features Dior’s signature geometric motif. Powe...

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Ace Jewelers and echo/neutra Unveil their Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Feb 26, 2025

Ace Jewelers and echo/neutra Unveil their Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum Limited Edition

From their distinctive lower-case name to their cohesive brand aesthetics, echo/neutra has upheld a reputation of stylized simplicity since their founding in 2019. With the Averau 39 Moon Phase, released in 2022 as a follow-up to the original Averau field watch, the young Italian brand proved that they could introduce complications without sacrificing the clean design ethos they’ve since become known for. A “Big Moon” version with both black and white dial options would follow in 2024 and become arguably the brand’s most recognizable watch, due to its strikingly photo-realistic moon disc.  For the new Averau 39 Moon Phase Noctilum, however, echo/neutra has plucked the traditional double-moon phase indication from the first Moon Phase model and given it a new minimalist look. A limited edition project joint-helmed by echo/neutra and Ace Jewelers of Amsterdam, the Noctilum emphasizes bold legibility-while the subdial at the 6 o’clock position remains, the realistically-textured moons have been replaced by contrasting black and luminous white alternatives. Continuing with the paring-down of design elements, the hands and 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock indices are the same matte black as the dial, but feature luminous white borders, creating an impressively emotive and legible “inverted lume” effect in dark conditions.  Further deviating from the original, the Noctilum deletes the Arabic hour numerals and the “2649 MSLM” script between 7 and 8 o’clock. The r...

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Introducing – Indie Brand Havid Nagan Releases its New and Elegant Classic One Monochrome
Havid Nagan Feb 26, 2025

Introducing – Indie Brand Havid Nagan Releases its New and Elegant Classic One

Havid Nagan (from the Armenian word havidenagan, meaning eternal) is a relatively new name in the independent watchmaking scene and the brainchild of California-based entrepreneur Aren Bazerkanian. The brand started with the inaugural HN00 series, a cushion-shaped titanium watch with guilloché-like dials powered by Schwartz-Etienne micro-rotor movements. Then came the HN01 Lucine Moon Phase. Things […]

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And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” – Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community Worn & Wound
Feb 26, 2025

And You May Ask Yourself, “Well, how did I get here?” – Dealing With Imposter Syndrome in the Watch Community

I attended my first watch meetup with a generic quartz dress watch on my wrist and two budget mechanical watches stuffed into my pockets. In my right pocket was a one hand Luch, a watch that was as quirky as it was inexpensive (I think I paid $50 on Amazon, a lot for me at the time), thanks to a single hand that worked its way around a 12 hour dial about twice per day. I say “about” because it wasn’t very accurate, but I didn’t care. I’d spent hours researching my first mechanical watch before spending my hard earned cash, and was genuinely proud to own it. My left pocket housed a broken HMT Pilot, a watch that unlike the Luch that had been purchased out of pure enthusiasm, I knew little about. Of course, it wasn’t broken when I’d bought it, and the debate of whether or not it even belonged in my pocket at all was one that had caused me considerable stress in the hours leading up to the meetup. As a pandemic era watch enthusiast, I cut my horological teeth behind the safety of my phone screen. Like bowling with bumpers, the internet spoon fed me confidence in a secure environment, letting me compose painstakingly researched opinions into carefully curated comments before posting anonymously on a forum. And, if that comment received criticism, this informative and safe environment allowed me to make it disappear forever with a single click. But as the pandemic fizzled out and restrictions were lifted, the watch community I’d become a part of through various ...

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First Look – The New-Gen AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding with the New Calibre 7138 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet held Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The New-Gen AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding with the New Calibre 7138

About a year ago, when Audemars Piguet held its yearly event to present its new collection, the brand introduced a highly appealing version of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, made with artist and seasoned collector John Mayer. Besides the incredibly textured dial, AP issued a highly important statement. This watch marked the swan song […]

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First Look – The new Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Monochrome
Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Feb 24, 2025

First Look – The new Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu

Just four months after Louis Erard unveiled its handsome Régulateur Gravé with a black dial, the brand returns with a blue dial. The idea of blending the brand’s classic regulator layout with a sector dial was spot-on; however, adding traditional engraving techniques to the mix was an inspired choice. Joining the permanent and newly created […]

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