Results for ETA 2892-A2

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

F.P. Journe s manufacture as well Dec 19, 2023

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team

I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.  

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Louis Erard since 2020 overseeing Dec 18, 2023

What is Kollokium? The Mysterious Details Behind the Projekt 01

If you frequent certain corners of Watch Instagram, you likely came across a new and somewhat mysterious project last week called Kollokium. They appeared almost out of nowhere with minimal teasing, and presented a watch that you can’t yet buy that is certainly unique. The real story, though, is in the ethos of the brand itself. Part of that ethos is that they don’t actually consider themselves a brand at all, but a “project based platform” that exists to explore alternatives to traditional watchmaking.  It might help to start with the people behind the platform. Kollokium was founded in 2020 by three watch industry veterans: Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi. Emch is perhaps the most well known of the three, and has been leading Louis Erard since 2020, overseeing the brand’s incredible turnaround from through the smart execution of desirable limited editions with interesting collaborators. Nussbaumer is a watch designer who over the years has worked with Louis Erard, Petermann Bedat, and other brands (you can follow him on Instagram here). And Amr Sindi will be more familiar by his Instagram handle, @thehorophile. You might recall that Sindi collaborated on a limited edition release with Louis Erard earlier this year, and you’ll begin to see how these three individuals are all tied together, and the collaboration begins to make a bit more sense as a creative outlet that can exist apart from their respective day jobs.  OK, so, the watch itself. The...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists Dec 18, 2023

Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists

The shortlist of five finalists has just been announced for the first ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, an award that seeks to recognise and reward notable independent watchmakers. Selected from the 20 semi-finalists by the award’s committee of experts, a line-up of over 40 notables that included Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee, author Nick Foulkes, Kari Voutilainen, and collector Mike Shanlikian, the five finalist watches and their makers will be judged by a jury of five who will ultimately decide the winner at a meeting on February 6, 2024. The five finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Raúl Pagès L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Reference 2941 – Petermann Bédat Chronometre Artisans – Simon Brette And the winner will be selected from these five by the jury of Carole Forstier Kasapi, head of movement development at TAG Heuer; collector and author Auro Montanari; retailer Michael Tay of The Hour Glass; watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi; and our founder Jiaxian Su. These five members were voted into their role by the committee of experts for this role. The eventual winner will receive a year-long mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps in order to further develop his creations, as well as a prize of €150,000. More about the finalists All five of these pieces are deserving of recognition and only go to highlight the vibrant market for independent creations we currently have. One of the...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde ... Dec 18, 2023

Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Unveiled earlier this year as part of its retrograde-theme collection, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is self explanatory: it combines a tourbillon, retrograde date, along with a self-winding movement. And in contrast to many date indications that are almost an afterthought, this presents the date in an elaborate, thoughtful manner. A clear sapphire dial shows off the retrograde mechanism, along with the base plate of the movement that’s been decorated with linear guilloche. And at six o’clock sits the tourbillon, with the cage in the Maltese cross emblem of Vacheron Constantin (VC), secured by a traditional bridge of polished steel. Initial thoughts Classically-styled watches sometimes suffer from the addition of a date display; dates often get in the way of the design or just don’t fit in. The Tourbillon Retrograde Date, in contrast, benefits from it. While the tourbillon might be the headline feature of the watch, and the peripheral winding the most novel, the retrograde date is  the most appealing mechanical detail. Retrograde displays are amongst the most striking dial-side complications because they are composed of parts in varying shapes, which allows them to be both beautiful and intricate when executed correctly, and here the date certainly is. Despite being a simple function in itself, the date is executed well – it is finely constructed and finished. The components of the retrograde display are clearly designe...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Dec 16, 2023

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean Limited Edition SLA055 and SLA057: Diving Deep! - Reprise

Japanese watch giant Seiko once again draws upon its many years of experience in the discipline of diver’s watches to reboot a timepiece from 1968 for a new generation. The two Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean limited edition timepieces are real dive watches made for professional divers and pioneering adventurers, manufactured to weather the most extreme situations under water.

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Roger Dubuis Turns Dec 13, 2023

Roger Dubuis Turns to “Ice and Fire” for the Knights of the Round Table

Now the signature watch of Roger Dubuis’ modern-day offerings, the Knights of the Round Table “Titanium Damascus” is inspired by the Arthurian fable. The latest edition is centred on the theme of “ice and fire” – the reference to Game of Thrones is unmissable – and is surprisingly artisanal despite the ultra-contemporary aesthetic. Decorated with blue Murano glass and Limoges porcelain, the dial has 12 knights around a frozen lake – a miniature diorama depicting the knights confronting imminent peril emerging from the waters’ depths – and a case made of a pattern-welded titanium alloy. Initial thoughts The “ice and fire” edition is no doubt catered for a niche audience – and at 45 mm few can wear it easily – but still has a unique appeal. Moreover, it departs from the modern, skeletonised style that’s characteristic of the brand’s automotive-inspired timepieces. It merges artisanal decoration and modern watchmaking – it is big and bold but boasts unexpectedly intricate detailing. The watch encapsulates the Roger Dubuis “hyper horology” ethos in both design and construction, while the dial and movement (which is hallmarked with the Poincon de Geneve) stay faithful to traditional watchmaking and decoration. This Knights of the Round Table is priced at approximately US$374,000, putting it in the same price range as other editions in the series. It is also priced similarly to comparably extravagant watches from the likes of Jacob & Co., bu...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Casio ns Dec 12, 2023

Farer’s Latest is Inspired by the Pullman Company, the Historic UK Train Car Manufacturer

When it comes to setting the standard for British elegance, does anyone do it better than Farer? The London-based watchmaker, whose timepieces are produced in Switzerland, recently launched their latest in the Cushion Case collection: The Durham Pullman. Evoking a bygone era, this latest from Farer takes inspiration from the Pullman Company, manufacturer of train cars throughout the United Kingdom. With this, the mixture of greens and silver balances a bit of sophistication with everyday wear. The dial is the real selling point of this watch, so we’ll talk about that first. The dial boasts a luxurious dark green hue with a metallic brushed finish, lending it a dynamic tone under varying lights. Atop this base, a raised ring with a radial brushed finish creates the distinctive sector dial effect of the Cushion Case collection. Resting on this ring are highly polished silver markers- a blend of batons and Roman numerals-accompanied by a refined dauphine handset. Complementing these silver elements is the seconds sub-dial, featuring a sunken silver channel with an engine-turned finish. These meticulous details converge to establish the seasonal release of the Durham Pullman as an exceptionally refined timepiece suitable for both formal occasions and weekend outings alike. As part of the Cushion Collection, the Durham Pullman is bound to have presence when worn due to its shape and easy-to-style size that complements a variety of wearers. Sitting at 38.5 mm with a 43.8mm...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Dec 11, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon”

In keeping with its tradition of special editions for the Chinese Lunar New Year, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduces the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Dragon” to celebrate the Year of the Wood Dragon that begins in early 2024. A limited edition that’s made-to-order, the Reverso “Dragon” maintains the timeless, double-sided design, but with a black grand feu enamel dial and a hand-engraved case back portraying a Chinese dragon. Initial thoughts Commemorative Lunar New Year editions are not new for Jaeger-LeCoultre, as the brand produced an equivalent edition last year. However, the formal works: combining enamel and engraving results in a more elaborate design compared to the typical Reverso while still retaining the elegance and character of the model. The watch showcases a captivating motif on its back. On closer inspection, intricate details come to the fore, with the dragon depicted in low relief against a fired enamel background. Although almost monochromatic, it is undeniably vivid. Just like last year’s Tiger edition, the Reverso “Dragon” is made-to-order and is priced at US$107,000 before taxes. It comes in slightly higher than the previous Reverso models featuring similar artwork. It is expensive for what it is, despite the evident artistry of the decoration, particularly since Jaeger-LeCoultre is historically a brand associated with more affordable watches. A lavish depiction of a Chinese dragon The Reverso “Dragon” depicts a dragon in the clouds against a ...

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R Revolution

Revolution

Furlan Marri x Auro Montanari x Dec 8, 2023

Up Close with Furlan Marri x Auro Montanari x Revolution Swiss-Made Mechanical Flyback Chronographs

Being the first Furlan Marri with a mechanical chronograph movement, we also want to focus on the beautiful dials and just the fact of the amount of attention to detail given to individual pieces. These pieces all come with the elevated inner dial which is brushed nicely to finish, accompanied by the pulsation indicator chapter […]

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W WatchAdvice

WatchAdvice

Audemars Piguet making Dec 7, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time

We’ve gone hands on with the new Riviera GMT launched at the start of the year, and we must say that it’s been a bit of a surprise package! What We Love Wave motif silver dialQuick change strap systemComfortable bracelet What We Don’t No secondary strap to utilise the quick change systemNo GMT bezel, limiting true GMT functionalityLack of a screw-down crown Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 7.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Baume & Mercier has had its ups and downs over the years, and more recently, I feel they’ve been relegated to the bottom of the Richemont stable of brands. However, this year, with the 50th Anniversary of the Riviera, Baume & Mercier have breathed some new life into their steel sports diver and designed it for a new wave of watch lovers. For those not very familiar with Baume & Mercier, first a very quick history lesson… The new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time Launched in 1973, the Riviera immediately made a splash with its dodecagonal case and its slimline metal strap. At this time, very few brands had really ventured into the luxury integrated steel bracelet models, with maybe the exception of Rolex and Audemars Piguet, making the Baume & Mercier Riviera one of the first brands to do this. Interestingly, the original design was done by Jean-Claude Gueit, the father of Emmanuel Gueit who designed the Royal Oak Offshore, so the Riviera has some design provenance and links back to that era as well. The Riviera...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Flagship Boutique Dec 5, 2023

You’re Invited to the Worn & Wound Party at the New Citizen Flagship Boutique in NYC

You are invited to join Worn & Wound for a party celebrating the NEW Citizen Flagship Boutique in the heart of NYC. On Tuesday, December 12, be among the first to experience this stunning boutique celebrating the watches of Citizen. Join both the Worn & Wound and Citizen teams, as well as fellow enthusiasts for an after-hours deep dive into the Citizen collection. Enjoy drinks, snacks, and great company. Anyone who comes will be entered into a giveaway to win a Citizen watch and everyone will also get a special gift. Space is limited so don’t miss out! Get all the event details and add your RSVP here. Please note: An RSVP must be submitted for each person interested in attending. The post You’re Invited to the Worn & Wound Party at the New Citizen Flagship Boutique in NYC appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Sarpaneva Dec 5, 2023

Introducing - The Sarpaneva Midnight Sun, Revealing Itself at Night

The most Scandinavian of independent watchmakers, Stepan Sarpaneva, is in a category all his own … His complex and ultra-detailed watches have always been deeply personal and unique; some even featured his face on the so-called Sarpaneva Moonface. While remaining faithful to the original design cues of Sarpaneva, his recent pieces reveal his desire to reconnect […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Grand Seiko Dec 5, 2023

Up Close: Citizen Caliber 0210 “The Citizen”

Citizen launched its flagship mechanical watch, the Caliber 0200, two years ago. Despite being better known for high-end quartz watches – including the most accurate ever – the  Japanese watchmaker managed an impressively executed three-handed sports watch, with an equally outstanding new movement. Now the model finally receives a mechanical upgrade with the Caliber 0210, which incorporates a date along with subtle improvements to the external design, while retaining the excellent case and bracelet that define the model. Initial thoughts The Caliber 0210 indicates the brand’s interest in further developing this excellent model – encouraging for fans of the model like myself. Despite the Caliber 0210 looking much like its predecessor, it is actually a substantially different watch in tangible terms. Ordinarily the addition of a date would be a no-no for a purist enthusiast, but here the date is integrated well in terms of dial proportions and (re)design. The appealing attributes of the Caliber 0200, and now the Caliber 0210, clearly mark the two out as watches conceived for a niche audience, namely enthusiasts who appreciate quality – and are able to distinguish this from the competition (Grand Seiko to state the obvious). However, this target audience often prefers the purity of a three-hand watch without a date. At the same time, this audience comprehends the substantive upgrades in the Caliber 0210 beyond the date – amongst them the improved case constructi...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Christopher Ward s Dec 4, 2023

Review: Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 36MM (and 40MM)

Last month, I had the opportunity to put together a list of the three watches I would choose for a collection if I had a budget of $5,000. Though I stand by my choices, selected through detailed research and great care, I have one small confession to make: none of those watches had ever graced my wrist. Fearing the imaginary cries of “j’accuse!” lest my secret be discovered, I tried on one of the three at a local authorized dealer within the week. This second opportunity was graciously made possible by the editors at Worn & Wound. I’m two for three now, so thus begins a personal journey predetermined by the Horological Fates. For this review, I lived a full day in the life with The Twelve. Two of these were the highly anticipated 36mm reference – one on the classic integrated bracelet, and the other on the rubber strap option. I also sampled the 40mm stainless steel reference on the bracelet in order to properly compare them. My wrist circumference, for reference, is about 5.75 inches. Christopher Ward’s goal in this 36mm launch was greater inclusivity towards women and other smaller-wristed folks, and I’m uniquely situated to consider both sizing options from this perspective. Each watch spent a day (or more) on wrist, so I was able to assess my true feelings towards them after the immediate New Watch Glee wore off. As a newbie reviewer, one helpful piece of advice I received was to pay attention to first impressions, and run with that if it felt right. Whil...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Citizen Super Titanium™ Holiday Gift Dec 4, 2023

Citizen Super Titanium™ Holiday Gift Guide

If you’re anything like us, a few big holiday meals can have you feeling pretty heavy. Luckily, your wrist doesn’t have to feel the same way, and that’s thanks to an incredibly solid lineup of titanium watches from Citizen. If you’ve never handled a titanium watch before, you’re in for a treat. The metal is almost shockingly light, but still retains a premium feel and can be finished in the same way as steel. All the benefits of a metal watch, with a much lighter feel on the wrist. Of all the brands out there, Citizen has embraced titanium the most, with a complete lineup of interesting watches that appeal to a broad range of tastes. Citizen doesn’t use just any titanium, but one of their own creation. Super Titanium is Citizen’s approach to maintaining a pristine appearance on the elements of their watch by applying their proprietary surface-hardening technology that they call Duratect to create a watch that is five times harder and 40% lighter than stainless steel. Typically, titanium is more prone to scratches and this addition of surface hardening ensures that the watch stays free from nicks and scratches. Today, we’re taking a closer look at seven Citizens-curated by Worn & Wound’s editorial team-all crafted from their own proprietary lightweight, durable, and comfortable Super Titanium. The post Citizen Super Titanium™ Holiday Gift Guide appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Ressence Brings Some Color Dec 4, 2023

Ressence Brings Some Color to the Type 1

In the big wide world of watches, there is nothing quite like a Ressence. The Belgium-based brand has made its name through futuristic designs that utilize co-planar revolving discs and other dial elements to create a cohesive and interesting time-telling experience. In the brand’s lineup, the Type 1 Round is positioned as the foundation and the most distilled vision of what Ressence stands for. The new Type 1° M, however, reveals a playful side that has not been seen before. Out with the staid black and gray tones for which the brand has been so well known for; it’s time for some color. The Type 1 Round’s case is, well, round, and measures 42.7mm wide, 47mm lug to lug, and 11mm thick. It is made of Grade 5 Titanium and does away with a traditional crown (more on winding in a moment). The dial is in the classic Ressence regulator style and displays days, hours, minutes, and seconds. Without a number in sight, which is which? On this multi-colored version it’s a little easier to ascertain: the blue chapter ring along the edge of the dial marks the seconds while the green dial tracks the hours. Yellow is for running seconds, and the red segmented ring marks the days of the week with the two outlined sections representing the weekend. Under the hood, Ressence’s patented Orbital Convex System (ROCS) enables the modules for the hours, minutes, seconds, and days to continuously revolve around one another. The movement is based on a (heavily) modified ETA-2892 and runs...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Breitling Introduces Dec 4, 2023

Breitling Introduces the Affordable(ish) Top Time Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon

Mostly made up of no-frills, vintage-inspired chronographs, Breitling’s Top Time collection now gets one of the brand’s most complicated offerings. The Breitling Top Time B21 Classic Cars Chronograph Tourbillon is inspired by the livery of 1960s American sports cars like the Ford Mustang, while its mechanics are courtesy of movement specialist La Joux-Perret, which constructed the B21 movement that combines a tourbillon and chronograph with column wheel. Initial thoughts Breitling’s newest launch goes far beyond the brand’s typical price range, but it is a chronograph with tourbillon, making it relative affordable given the complications. In fact, the combination of a chronograph with tourbillon is an uncommon pairing regardless of price. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette The watch retains the usual retro-inspired Top Time styling, which is attractive. The symmetry of the dial adds to its appeal, as do details like the mirrored register and tourbillon aperture, both shaped like a squircle. While the green and blue dials have a conventional metal finish, the dial on the Chevrolet Corvette edition is burl wood veneer, a reference to the wood steering wheel and dash of the 1960s Corvette. The wood dial and black ceramic case are an unusual combination, but make the Corvette version the most interesting of the trio. The downside of the watch is its size. The case is either 43 mm or 44 mm (depending on the material), which is acceptable, but 15.4 mm thick – that’...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Full Dec 3, 2023

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Full Lum: The Little Details are Lit! - Reprise

Diver’s watches are meant to be rough, tough tool watches, and limited editions are made to cash in on a model’s popularity. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Full Lum is both, yet disproves these paradox presumptions as Martin Green discovered after wearing this watch for a while. What did he think? "It's lit!"

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Furlan Marri Dec 1, 2023

Furlan Marri, with an Assist from Revolution and Auro Montanari, Unveil their First Mechanical Chronograph

Furlan Marri came on to the scene in 2021 with a series of highly regarded chronographs using meca-quartz movements. If you weren’t around for the legitimate hysteria around these watches, well, you missed one of the key viral moments within our community from the last few years. These chronographs were a sensation, and if you had a chance to handle or own one, it’s easy to see why. They nailed all the right vintage cues, and somehow achieved an immaculate level of finishing in a watch that retailed for just $330 (though at the peak of their hype, they traded for much more on the secondary market). Still, at the time, many in the community openly wondered about the possibility of a mechanical version of these watches at some point down the line. Only a few years later, Furlan Marri has followed up that initial meca-quartz release with a trio of time-only mechanical references, as well as a truly bonkers perpetual calendar for Only Watch. Now, at long last (but not that long – again, the brand is only a few years old) Furlan Marri has unveiled their first mechanical chronographs, a series of watches that always seemed inevitable.  This collection is actually a collaboration of sorts between Furlan Marri and our friends at Revolution, as well as noted collector Auro Montanari, known to many in the community by his pen name, John Goldberger. Montanari was an early supporter of Furlan Marri, and it’s not unreasonable to say that his approval of these affordable but ve...

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M Monochrome

Monochrome

Doxa SUB 300? Collection Dec 1, 2023

First Look - The New Doxa SUB 300? Collection, With Ceramic Bezel and Modern Look

Beta or ?… The second letter in the Greek alphabet, but also the sign of renewal for Doxa. The second phase of its life… Sleeker, more modern, less instrumental and rugged, revamping the classic look we’ve known for years, with a more urban touch, but still the same diving capacities (what else would you expect […]

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce Dec 1, 2023

Audemars Piguet & Travis Scott Introduce the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack”

Rumours of a brown ceramic Royal Oak began circulating several months ago, and the latest launch from Audemars Piguet (AP) has proven them true. However, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “Cactus Jack” 41 mm is more than a new colour, and instead it’s a 200-piece limited edition collaboration with American Rapper Travis Scott and his streetwear label Cactus Jack. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is interesting for being more than just a change of dial colour, which is usually the route taken for limited editions. While it is based on the standard model, the “Cactus Jack” gets a brown ceramic case as well as typography based on the musician’s handwriting on the dial, along with Cactus Jack’s smiley emblem for the moons. Notably, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “Cactus Jack” is just one part of AP’s collaboration with Mr Scott. Their tie-up also includes a line of clothing, including hoodies, t-shirts, and caps, that will be available on Cactus Jack’s own retail site. Initial thoughts Although the “Cactus Jack” is fundamentally identical to the regular production skeleton perpetual in ceramic, it looks strikingly different because of the case. Typically I am not a fan of brown ceramic, but here the material sets the watch apart instantly. This differentiation is a good thing since there are many, many version of the Royal Oak perpetual calendar – the non-skeleton ceramic model is already available in b...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Seiko Presage SRPB43 Price $319 Nov 30, 2023

Men's Watch Gift Guide 2023: 55 Watches for the Holidays

The holiday season is upon us once again, leaving us all with our three usual questions: Where exactly did 2023 go? Where will I be to ring in the New Year? And what is the perfect watch gift for each of my family members and friends who share my passion for timepieces? We can't help you with the first two questions, but we're definitely here for you on the third. Here, we've put together a list of watches in several categories, with various types of recipients in mind, at a variety of price points. Best of all, many of these watches are available right here in our online shop. For the sophisticated gent: Seiko Presage SRPB43 Price: $319, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R35 The “Cocktail Time” series within Seiko’s automatic-only Presage family of attainable, attractive dress watches are designed to evoke the types of high-end cocktails served at Japan’s famously atmospheric rooftop bars. This model with a stainless steel case and a sunray ice-blue dial takes its nickname and inspiration from a classic Martini. The glossy-finish dial’s ridged, rippling edges help give it the look of a birds-eye view inside the cocktail glass; the tone-on-tone date window is a subtle but impressive bonus at this price point, as is the in-house, automatic movement inside. The 40.5-mm case is topped by a box-shaped crystal made of a proprietary Seiko material called H...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Breguet numerals Nov 29, 2023

Baltic Introduces Gold Toned Versions of Three of their Most Popular Watches

For nearly seven years, French watch brand Baltic has been producing at a luxury level that far exceeds its retail price point. We’re always excited to see them fill out their collection with new references, and today they add three new additions to the MR01, Bicompax, and HMS lines. Think of these new releases as sisters, if you will. Each reference combines black and, in a first for Baltic, gold PVD, for an elegant finish, but each has its own distinct personality. First there is the MR01. Best described as “small but mighty,” this 36mm reference sits comfortably on either a man’s or woman’s wrist with a 9mm case height, while also being tonally perfect to wear as your dress watch. A subsidiary seconds subdial is found at 7:00, while the rest of the dial is pared-down and handsome, featuring subtle details like Breguet numerals and leaf hands. The MR01 is powered by a Hangzhou CAL5000a automatic movement, wound via a micro rotor, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. Next up is the black-and-gold addition to the Bicompax line-up. Inspired by watches of the 1940’s, the Bicompax 02 case comes in at a comfortable 38mm. Given the time period of its reference point, it’s no wonder that much of this design was inspired by the Art Deco period. The design features a brushed sector housing the hour-markers, along with two subdials sporting a stylish azurage finish. The remaining dial is polished, introducing a subtle contrast to the overall look. Addi...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Nov 29, 2023

Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week

Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Nov 28, 2023

Historical Landmarks in Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places”

In the Les Cabinotiers collection for 2023, titled “Récits de Voyages”, Vacheron Constantin draws inspiration from its historical international expansion for Les Cabinotiers “Memorable Places” – a quartet of unique timepieces, each featuring a micro-sculpted gold dials inspired by significant architectural landmarks in cities across Asia as well as Vacheron Constantin’s home of Geneva. Initial thoughts As a collection, Les Cabinotiers embodies the quintessence of haute horlogerie, placing a distinct focus on crafting highly decorated timepieces for those who exclusively pursue the highest standards in watchmaking and artisanal craftsmanship. Though these unique creations are not entirely novel – Blancpain debuted a series of similar watches several years ago – it is truly delightful to witness the brand consistently surpass conventional expectations and create wearable works of art for the wrist. Among the four timepieces, a standout is the model featuring the entrance gate to Angkor Thom in Cambodia. The brand’s engravers have meticulously replicated every detail, capturing the foliage and serene visages of the past rulers of the Khmer Empire atop the temple. This intricate work is accomplished through hand engraving in various shades of gold.  The choices of landmarks – namely two in China, one in Cambodia – no doubt reflect the brand’s client base. While it could be seen as a little incongruous to feature Geneva among these Asian wonders, it st...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon Nov 28, 2023

Intricately Nuanced Green in the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grisaille Dragon

Christened “Récits de Voyages”, the Les Cabinotiers line-up for 2023 is all about captivating narratives told through unique timepieces, each recounting the historical expansion of the brand across diverse geographies. One of them evokes the mid-19th century when Vacheron Constantin forged its first commercial ties in China, reflecting the profound significance of the country for watchmaking in that era. The Les Cabinotiers Grisaille High Jewellery “Dragon” pays homage to that historical relationship. This extraordinary timepiece features a grisaille enamel dial in green – the technique almost always relies on greys and blacks instead – that showcases the mythical five-clawed dragon, once the symbol of the Chinese emperor. The artisanal enamel dial is contained within a case fully set baguette-cut diamonds, alongside one of the thinnest self-winding movements ever, the cal. 1120. Initial thoughts The dial of the Les Cabinotiers Dragon showcases the grisaille technique that offers a distinct, high contrast and a clear focus on the mythical subject. Departing from the conventional grisaille approach of a monochromatic palette of greys, Vacheron Constantin opted for a unique twist by employing shaded green enamel to depict the majestic dragon. The colour manages to give the dragon more life than compared to a traditional black-and-grey grisaille dial, while still retaining the discreet elegance that is characteristic of the technique. The result is remarkable and...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Urwerk Nov 27, 2023

Recap: Watches, Diving, & Enthusiasm At Dubai Watch Week

Last week marked the 6th edition of Dubai Watch Week, an educational forum and brand exhibition situated in the heart of Dubai’s Financial Center. This is not a commercial event (no watches are sold by the exhibiting brands) but rather an event put on for the community, featuring masterclass sessions around the craft, open forums from watchmakers, and even debates between collectors and media personalities. This year offered a selection of new release announcements and incredible talks to take in (along with some truly epic watch spotting along the way), and we also took the opportunity to take in a bit more of the surrounding region with a few dives, a trip to the world’s tallest building, and even some Formula 1 racing down the coast in Abu Dhabi for good measure.  Dubai Watch Week is organized by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the region, offering everything from Rolex and AP, to Urwerk and MB&F;, many of whom are represented in the fair. The grounds of the fair are open to the public and free to attend (though registration is required), with a strong presence from the local enthusiasts communities and their families. Meeting members of the Dubai Watch Club, as well as some enthusiasts passing through the region to take in the fair (including several from our own W&W;+ Slack channel) was among the highlights of my time in Dubai. The fair itself was split into two sections, with an indoor hall surrounded by an outdoor pathway upon which some of th...

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S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Rexhep Rexhepi Maximilian Büsser Nov 24, 2023

If You Missed It: Panel Discussions at Dubai Watch Week 2023

There was plenty to see and do around Dubai Watch Week 2023, which just concluded last weekend. Wandering around the glittering hall with showcases full of new releases, and you might run into Rexhep Rexhepi, Maximilian Büsser, and Kari Voutilainen. Punctuating all of this, however, were the insightful panel discussions that happened over the course of Dubai Watch Week (DWW), which was organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East. Covering a wide array of topics and including speakers from an even wider background, it was possible to dip in and out of these discussions throughout the fair. Luckily, they were all recorded and are now available on the DWW YouTube channel. So if you weren’t able to attend the show, or you found yourself stuck between one booth and the next, you can catch up on them at any time. Inside the exhibition hall of DWW The best session of the fair was undoubtedly the in-depth talk given by talented watchmaker, Stephen McDonnell that we quickly recommended in real time. Mr McDonnell provided incredible detail about his work and philosophy in a talk that summarised his horological mind. But we wanted to give some more highlights from across the programme beyond Mr McDonnell, as there is plenty to dig in to. Stephen McDonnell at DWW The first talk of the show focused on a hot button topic, the role of retailers and the allocation of popular watches. Moderated by British journalist Robin Swithinbank, it featured Moh...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Nov 23, 2023

Circula Adds New Dial Colors to their Protrail and Aquasport II Collections

Fresh off the heels of Circula’s latest release, the DiveSport 500m diver, the German maker is at it again and just in time for the holiday season, introducing two new colorways to each of their existing ProTrail and AquaSport II lines.  In case you are not familiar with the Protrail, it is Circula’s take on a modern field watch, boasting significant anti-magnetic properties (up to 80,000 A/m), a 1,200 Vickers scratch resistant stainless steel case, and an Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200. This robust go anywhere, do anything watch has a diameter of 40mm, lug to lug length of 46mm and 12mm thin, which is well within “Goldilocks” parameters. All this and 150n water-resistance to boot. The two new colors for the Protrail are green and grey. All are available on a sailcloth strap or matching stainless-steel bracelet. Pricing starts at around $800 for this model. Also seeing a refresh is the AquaSport II, Circula’s version of a modern skin-diver. Equally capable in the boardroom, as on the dive boat, this formidable 200m dive watch boasts many sophisticated details. Sporting an attractive hand-brushed stainless steel case, a 120-click sapphire bezel and the same Elaboré Grade Sellita SW200. Similar to the Protrail, this one is 40mm in diameter, 46mm from lug to lug and an impressive 12.6mm thick. “Goldilocks” parameters checked off once again.   A new brown/gilt dial joins the  AquaSport II collection, alongside recently introduced anthracite and red colorways. ...

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SJX Watches

Longines New Legend Diver Nov 23, 2023

Longines’ New Legend Diver in the Old Size

Recognised by its distinctive dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, the Longines Legend Diver pays homage to history while embracing modern enhancements. Already a mainstay of Longines’ reissue sports watches, the Legend Diver has undergone a transformation and now features a redesigned and smaller 39 mm case that faithfully echoes the original (while it predecessor was 41 mm). Initial thoughts The new Legend Diver carefully retains the vintage styling of its predecessor. Traditionalists will appreciate the absence of the date that was found on the prior version. The absent dial preserves the dial’s clean and uncluttered aesthetic. But the new Legend Diver is not just a remake. Inside is the cal. 888.6, an upgraded ETA calibre that stands out with a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance that exceeds the ISO 764 standard by ten times thanks to a silicon hairspring. And the dial similarly retains the design of the vintage original, but is executed in a modern manner with two colours of Super-Luminova, green and blue. This not only adds a touch of excellence to the design but also enhances readability in low-light conditions. On its face, the downsizing to 39 mm may not align with the conventions of a tool watch, especially one conceived for diving. However, this shift in size caters better to daily wear and better reproduces the original’s dimensions. Unfortunately, the reduction in diameter doesn’t go hand in hand with a decrease in thickness, so the ...

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