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Results for Philippe Dufour

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Philippe Dufour

The Vallée de Joux independent whose Simplicity, Duality, and Grande Sonnerie set the modern finishing benchmark.
[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Apr 9, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

Among the Tudor novelties this year is a watch that many enthusiasts and fans of the brand have been clamoring for for years: the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Since the moment the Black Bay 58 was released in 2019, the “put a GMT on it” crowd has loudly and frequently suggested that the travel friendly complication be added to the vintage inspired diver. Endless renderings shared across forums and social media over the years have suggested what the watch might look like, and now it’s here.  The new Black Bay 58 GMT is pretty much exactly what you would expect: the classic 58 form factor with a 39mm case, slightly domed black dial, gilt accents, and a classic burgundy and black “Coke” style 24 hour bezel. There’s an unframed date window at 3:00, and the watch is mounted to a three-link “rivet-style” bracelet or a rubber strap, both of which are mated to a T-fit clasp for easy on-the-fly adjustment.  The question comes up almost as soon as you realize what you’re looking at: how thick is it? After the Black Bay Pro was unveiled two years ago, the conversation focused on the watch’s proportions, with many insisting the 14mm thick case was just too chunky. For the 58 GMT, I don’t think anyone will realistically be able to make the same claims. The case measures a very reasonable 12.8mm tall, and has the same gentle curves as the 58 we’ve known for years.  On the wrist, the Black Bay 58 GMT wears incredibly well, which is what you’d expect given the clas...

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Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience Worn & Wound
Oris Updates Apr 9, 2024

Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience

This year at Watches & Wonders, Oris finds itself focusing primarily on a single collection: the Aquis. For years, the Aquis has carried the torch as the brand’s flagship modern sports watch. A capable diver with an integrated bracelet (it had one before they were cool), the Aquis has been made in a dizzying variety of case sizes and dial variants over the years, with complicated models, limited editions, and even diamonds finding their way to the line. But over all that time, the Aquis itself has never really had a proper reset. That changes this year, with a new, more refined Aquis Date that seeks to improve on the old version in all the ways watch collectors care about. The new Aquis is made of a number of subtle changes that add up to a noticeable, if incremental, improvement. This is not a radical rethinking of the Aquis, but feels more like an admission from Oris that certain elements of the tried and true design could be tweaked for a better overall experience. It’s an approach, frankly, that we think more brands should take. When something is generally pretty good, it makes no sense to kill it and start from scratch. Success over a long period means little iterative changes that make your product better as performance expectations shift, and Oris seems to embrace that.  Of the changes made to the new Aquis, the most important is likely the small tweaks to the case. Oris has redefined the Aquis silhouette by making everything a little more balanced, with lugs t...

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First Look – The Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets a 43mm Option Monochrome
Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets Mar 21, 2024

First Look – The Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets a 43mm Option

Next to the vintage-inspired Legend Diver collection, the Longines HydroConquest is a more utilitarian, robust, classic diver, with water-resistance up to 300 metres, a unidirectional, external rotating bezel, a screw-in crown and a screw-down caseback. Following the introduction of the practical, versatile and mostly visually appealing HydroConquest GMT last year in a 41mm case, Longines […]

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Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition Fratello
Mar 20, 2024

Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition

Last year, Aquastar released a modern interpretation of one of its earliest watches, the Model 60. The no-nonsense black dial paired with a utile skin-diver case made it an instant hit. Now a new dial color joins the fray. The limited-production Greenwich Edition has a dark green dial that works well with the design. It […] Visit Hot Take: The Aquastar Model 60 Greenwich Edition to read the full article.

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Revolution and Sinn Team Up for a First of its Kind 155 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sinn Team Up Mar 18, 2024

Revolution and Sinn Team Up for a First of its Kind 155 Chronograph

Our friends at Revolution have launched their second limited edition collaboration with Sinn, following up on 2019’s 155 Bundeswehr “Dark Star,” a collaborative effort with both The Rake and Revolution publications. Here we have another 155, this time in a notably darker, and tougher configuration, but still paying tribute to the very roots of the German watch brand. The 155 chronograph, for many Sinn collectors, represents the true beginnings of the brand, and this release captures that spirit while adding some of the contemporary twists you’d expect from a collaboration partner like Revolution. It’s all very enthusiast focused, and should really speak to hardcore Sinn fans.  Before we get into the details on the new release, an introduction to the 155 is probably in order to fully contextualize the limited edition. Beginning in 1967, the 155 Bundeswehr chronograph was made exclusively for the West German Federal Defense Force. Beginning in the 1980s, Helmut Sinn began selling issued Bundeswehr watches that had been decommissioned under his own brand name. This practice helped to bolster Sinn’s reputation in watch communities that care about military provenance, tool watch history, and classic design, and laid the groundwork for what Sinn would come to represent to many, makers of no-nonsense, practical tools with true military bona fides. The 155 itself is a ruthlessly simple affair, with a two register chronograph layout and bi-directional 60 minute bezel d...

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Recommendations for Building a Watch Collection for £5,000/$6,000 Featuring Tudor, Tissot, Oris, and a G-Shock Quill & Pad
Tissot Oris Mar 13, 2024

Recommendations for Building a Watch Collection for £5,000/$6,000 Featuring Tudor, Tissot, Oris, and a G-Shock

If Raman Kalra was to hypothetically start building his watch collection all over again, this is what it would look like if he had £5,000/$6,000 to spend. He hasn't selected a watch from each category (diver, chronograph etc.), but rather watches he likes, and believes would cover different scenarios such as the office, casual weekend wear, and the beach.

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Seiko Updates SPB Range Of 62MAS Prospex Divers Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Updates SPB Range Mar 7, 2024

Seiko Updates SPB Range Of 62MAS Prospex Divers

The Seiko Prospex SPB143 re-interpretation 62MAS diver has proven itself as one of Seiko's most popular modern dive watches. It's budget-conscious, durable, and captures the vintage vibes of the 62MAS while standing up to the rigors of daily use. Now, Seiko has decided to make some very small updates to the "1966 Diver’s Re-Interpretation” lineup that elevate the models in a very big way.

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First Look – The Time-and-Date Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Mar 7, 2024

First Look – The Time-and-Date Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding 43mm

While there have been time-and-date and triple calendar versions since the mid-1990s, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore or ROO, has always been primarily known as a chronograph watch. It was actually designed as such when it launched in 1993. In modern days, non-chronograph ROO watches were mostly known as the Diver version, which was […]

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Seiko Introduces a Trio of Updated Divers in the SPB Range Worn & Wound
Rolex kind Mar 7, 2024

Seiko Introduces a Trio of Updated Divers in the SPB Range

Big news from Seiko today, as the brand announces a follow up to their wildly popular SPB143 diver (and its many siblings). The new SPB453, SPB451, and SPB455 use the same 62MAS derived format but offer small changes in specs that make the new versions of the watch correspondingly more appealing. It’s not a revolutionary update in design or anything, but a series of small changes that should result in a better experience for just about everyone, and reinforces the idea that this watch, the “1966 Diver’s Re-Interpretation,” is the core diver in Seiko’s lineup and will be forever tinkered with in an almost Rolex kind of way. Let’s start with the big changes, which are actually quite small in a literally sense. The new references have been tidied up a bit in their dimensions and are slightly smaller in every dimension watch enthusiasts care about than their predecessors. The diameter is down half a millimeter to a clean 40mm, and the case height has been reduced to 13mm, which is a barely perceptible 0.2mm thinner than the SPB143. The lug to lug measurement is 46.4mm, which is a more noticeable 1.4mm shorter.  The new case size is welcome, in my opinion. It’s not that the SPB143 wore too large or was too aggressively chunky, but for a diver like this a little extra refinement is a good thing. A skin diver style dive watch isn’t meant to be a behemoth on the wrist, but rather the ideal combination of wearability and performance for regular folks. Getting this ...

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First Look – The New Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB463, SPB465, SPB467, SPB469 & SPB471 Make An Entrance Monochrome
Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB463 Mar 7, 2024

First Look – The New Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB463, SPB465, SPB467, SPB469 & SPB471 Make An Entrance

Seiko’s current lineup is one of the strongest in its price range. From the accessible 5 Sports series to the popular Prospex diver designs and the reintroduction of the King Seiko name, Seiko has consistently introduced impressive new timepieces since the turn of the century. The all-new Presage Classic line deserves significant attention as it […]

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[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! It Feb 21, 2024

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME!

It was bound to happen. You get enough Black Bays in a room together, and they’re going to fight it out until there’s only one diver standing. Zach Kazan, Zach Weiss, and Kat Shoulders are all big Tudor fans, and have gravitated toward various corners of the Black Bay universe over the last few years in the dive watch’s decade-plus history. In this video, sides are chosen, and a battle is waged to crown the best Black Bay.  Kat’s choice, the Black Bay 54, was the darling of last year’s Watches & Wonders festivities. An immediate hit for its slender, vintage inspired footprint, the 54 is effectively a recreation of a classic vintage Tudor with all the conveniences of a modern watch. The only question: is it too small? And does it cannibalize the Black Bay 58, a watch that was once at the top of the enthusiast food chain (and not too long ago) but now might be redundant for many.  Zach Weiss picked the Black Bay Pro, another Watches & Wonders release, this one from 2022. While we’re still not sure exactly what makes it “pro,” there’s no denying the utility of a GMT equipped diver. The Black Bay Pro borrows some of its key attributes from well known vintage Rolex references (that fixed steel 24 hour bezel is clearly meant to evoke old and new Explorer IIs) but is still very much its own thing. It’s a hard watch not to like, unless you insist on complicated and robust sports watches being thinner than one could reasonably expect for about $4,000. We addre...

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Grand Seiko Snowflake Welcome Feb 18, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 74 – A Great Week for Fans of Titanium (and the Grand Seiko Snowflake)

Welcome to episode 74 of A Week in Watches! Another solid week of releases, this one is dominated by one brand that just can’t stop, and the most noble of metals – titanium. There’s a new brutish military diver from the mil-spec nerds over at Tornek-Rayville, some crystallized dress watches from Baltic, a simply handsome titanium chronograph from Zenith, and a ton of stuff from Grand Seiko. Like, a ton. Check it out below, and please like and subscribe if you haven’t already! This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop and the new Formex x Worn & Wound Essence Sector 39 Chronometer Limited Edition. The first collaboration between the two brands, its sci-fi-inspired style will stand out in any collection. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check them out, as well as accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 74 – A Great Week for Fans of Titanium (and the Grand Seiko Snowflake) appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Introducing: The Jacques Bianchi JB200 Posidonie - A Limited-Edition Dive Watch Inspired By “Neptune’s Herbs” Fratello
Feb 16, 2024

Introducing: The Jacques Bianchi JB200 Posidonie - A Limited-Edition Dive Watch Inspired By “Neptune’s Herbs”

What comes after black and blue? Indeed, green. That’s the way of the watch world. And that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Take the new Jacques Bianchi JB200 Posidonie for instance. Three years after the launch of the Marseille-based brand’s black JB200 Grand Diver and one year after the blue JB200 Poulpro comes a dive […] Visit Introducing: The Jacques Bianchi JB200 Posidonie - A Limited-Edition Dive Watch Inspired By “Neptune’s Herbs” to read the full article.

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Yema Steps Up Its Game With The New Superman Slim - Powered By The In-House CMM.20 Micro-Rotor Movement Fratello
Yema Feb 12, 2024

Yema Steps Up Its Game With The New Superman Slim - Powered By The In-House CMM.20 Micro-Rotor Movement

Back in 2022, I reviewed a couple of Yema’s Superman models, and I really liked the vintage vibes of the pointy lugs and the clean diver’s dial. The 39mm size is perfect for a wide variety of wrists, and I even thought the old-school bezel lock was charming. Unfortunately, I found the overall finishing and […] Visit Yema Steps Up Its Game With The New Superman Slim - Powered By The In-House CMM.20 Micro-Rotor Movement to read the full article.

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Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform Worn & Wound
Feb 6, 2024

Orion Returns with the Sylph, Based on their Popular Hellcat Platform

Orion Watches has a way of making one see a simple design in new light. Take, for instance, the isometric patterned dial on their Tesseract model. Or perhaps the tonal verdency of their Calamity diver is more your speed? Throughout the Orion catalog, one gets the sense that founder Nick Harris understands that a good watchmaker doesn’t rely on old tropes, but finds ways to add an element of surprise with each wear. That’s exactly what we’re seeing with the newest collection, the Orion Sylph. Coming in three distinct styles, the Sylph plays with color and texture against the shared sunburst dial. Customers can choose from a Graphite, Burgundy, and Black Mother-of-Pearl option, each with a bit of contrast to give a unique personality to each reference. Take, for instance, the Burgundy, which features a honey-colored dial accent and second hand. Then there is the dark charm of the Graphite option, which is contrasted with a sporty orange accent. And finally, the pièce de résistance, the Black Mother-of-Pearl reference, whose dial captures light beautifully and is accented in teal.  The Sylph stands out in its price segment with stainless steel indices, setting it apart from the softer appearance of plated plastic or brass alternatives. The silver ink dial printing adds warmth and reduces harsh contrast, while the diamond-cut hands, inspired by the Calamity, feature a thinner lume strip for a harmonious design. The Sylph is adapted from the Hellcat platform. The thin ...

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Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster Worn & Wound
Jan 31, 2024

Review: the Findeisen NauticMaster

If you are not already following @mikestuffler on Instagram, then you probably should. He is a watchuseek.com moderator emeritus and talks nearly exclusively about German watches. It is through one of his 7000+ posts that I discovered the brand, Findeisen. Until then, I had never heard of them, despite having been around since 2017. They began with a traditional three-hand dressy sports watch and in 2021 they launched the F-1253 diver. With its distinct sawtooth bezel, this is the one that caught my attention. New for 2023-24 are new vibrant dial colors and a polished DLC-coated bezel inlay.  In for review are two of their NauticMaster divers, a black one with the new bezel inlay and a blue one without. They also have white or green dials, available with either bezel option and your choice of right or left side crown positions. I must admit, I did not know what to expect when they were shipped over. After a few years of admiring these online, I was very excited to get my mitts on these in “real-life.” The case measures 41.5mm in diameter, with a thickness of 12.5mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 47mm and an end-link to end-link length of 53.5mm. I read somewhere that if the tip of the male end link sits lower than where the spring bar attaches to the case, the latter measurement is not as pronounced. I have come to believe that this is true. On my 7.5” wrist, it feels very well balanced and not too wide, not exceeding the surface of my wrist at either end. I also took...

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Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production SJX Watches
Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” Jan 12, 2024

Seiko Brings “Prospex Black Series” into Regular Production

After implementing the all-black aesthetic only in limited editions, Seiko has revived the Prospex Black Series but now as part of the standard catalogue.  Based on familiar models from the current lineup – the Prospex Sea “Turtle” diver (SRPK43) and the Prospex Speedtimer solar-powered chronograph (SSC923). Whilst the monochromatic black-on-black palette is a favourite for sports watches, the standout feature of the new pair is the green luminous paint on the hands and indices that has a retro feel, being reminiscent of the luminous radium applied to watch dials for most of the 20th century. Initial thoughts It’s gratifying to know the once limited Black Series is now accessible as part of the regular product line, since it’s an appealing, affordable sports watch. Admittedly this will be disappointing to some owners of past models that were limited editions, but it is not surprising considering the success of the earlier versions from 2017 and 2020. As for the watches themselves, the green Lumibrite on the hands and markers is the key differentiating factor, with the rest of each watch having the same design and dimensions as their standard steel equivalents. A useful extra would have been additional strap or bracelet options for a wider range of looks, particularly since all-black watches are now often paired with high-contrast straps. The Speedtimer is priced at US$700, while the Turtle retails for US$725. Each cost slightly more than the standard steel vers...

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Introducing – The Seiko Prospex King Turtle Black Series SRPK43 Monochrome
Seiko Prospex King Turtle Black Jan 11, 2024

Introducing – The Seiko Prospex King Turtle Black Series SRPK43

As we’ve seen recently with the attractive Diver GMT Arctic Ocean SPB439, there’s more to Seiko’s Prospex collection than just classic models. Black Series, PADI editions or Save the Ocean are some of the recurring sub-collections that have long been offered by the Japanese manufacturer. Today, Seiko adds a new model to its range of blackened […]

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Omega Seamaster Ploprof Jan 9, 2024

Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof

The Omega Ploprof is one of the most interesting, iconic, and discussed of all dive watches. Its unusual design is unlike any other diver, and the watch itself has a rich and storied history. When it was introduced in 1970, it was originally conceived as a no-compromises tool for saturation divers. Since then, the Ploprof has evolved into a cult item. It’s still used, of course, for technical diving purposes by dive professionals, but in the years since Omega relaunched the watch in 2009, it’s also become a talisman of a very particular type of dive watch nerdery. It’s one of the most “inside baseball” watches Omega makes, and is beloved by enthusiasts for all of the reasons many in the general public would walk right by it.  In this Missed Review, Blake Buettner explores the unique qualities of the Ploprof that make it special. Its unique design elements (the unusual case shape, a prominent crown guard system, the large orange button on the case flank, etc) are all there for very specific reasons rooted in the Ploprof’s extremely specific utility. Blake also gets into the history of the watch, and how this modern version (in titanium) differs from historical versions in unexpected ways. Omega Images from this post: The post Missed Review: the Omega Seamaster Ploprof appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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