Hodinkee
Happenings: Hodinkee Is Hosting A Meet-Up In Atlanta, So Come On Down
Our unofficial world tour of events continues, and we'd love to see you there.
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Hodinkee
Our unofficial world tour of events continues, and we'd love to see you there.
Worn & Wound
Are you ready for the final frontier? Or rather, the next frontier? A new frontier, at the very least? Yes, all signs point to a big change in the world of watches on the horizon. A new world, or I guess frontier to be consistent, where you don’t have to win the lotto, inherit tons of wealth, or be uncommonly successful to buy an exotic watch. A world where brands that were once considered too small to matter are standing their ground against giants, showing that with a passion for watches and an innovative spirit, the seemingly impossible can occur. This is a very dramatic way of saying that there have been some cool releases in the last few years that have been accelerating in their frequency, indicating the beginning of a new trend of the previously “exotic” becoming more obtainable. We’ve seen affordable wandering hours pop up for a few years from the likes of Gorilla and Atowak. We’ve seen unexpected collaborations between approachable brands and high-end independents like Louis Erard and Vianney Halter. We’ve seen high-end independents branch out into the approachable space with offshoots like Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoke, SUF Helsinki by Stepan Sarpaneva, and M.A.D. Editions by Max Büsser. We’ve seen Christopher Ward shock the world by releasing a dial-side sonnerie au passage with the C1 Bel Canto. We’ve seen more too, so perhaps the trend is already here. Reinforcing this is the subject of today’s review, the Argon Space One. The first watch by...
Worn & Wound
A dynamic duo is a way to describe a harmonious connection between two people that tend to create positive results when their unique traits are aligned together. Think Kobe and Shaq, Rick and Morty, or Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo, aka Daft Punk. This phenomenon can also be found by way of successful collaborations between brands across different industries. Kith and New Balance, as well as The James Brand and Topo Designs come to mind. One ongoing collaboration in particular that happens to intersect our horological universe is none other than the one between Seiko and Rowing Blazers. Since their initial collaborative release in 2021, they’ve consistently found a way to combine the witty design personality of Rowing Blazers and everything we adore about a steel Seiko sports watch. In timely fashion with Summer just around the corner, Seiko and Rowing Blazers have teamed up once again to deliver a new set of dial colors to their Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports collection. This new release adds a fresh palette of colors to the entire collection. Like the previous release, the Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports is supported by three vibrant colors – a pastel pink, deep purple and canary yellow. The three dial colors host a set of black hour markers with T-shaped silver accents. From above, the hour markers look one dimensional, but a side profile reveals an angular quality that slopes towards the center of the dial. The remaining reference in this set is...
Worn & Wound
For the last year, Swatch has existed primarily as the brand that makes and sells the MoonSwatch, their enormous, crossover hit made in partnership with Omega. It’s tough to underestimate the impact of the MoonSwatch on the watch world, mostly because its impact transcends the watch world. Your friends and family who are not part of the hobby, don’t read this site and others like it, and may not even own a watch, are almost certainly aware of the MoonSwatch. They’ve seen an advertisement for it, or have heard about it on the news, or perhaps they’ve stumbled onto the impressive MoonSwatch displays in a Swatch store, only to be told that the watches aren’t actually available to buy. Swatch has recently upped the ante somewhat on the MoonSwatch front by offering extremely limited versions with gold plated seconds hands, and it has me (and others) wondering if the hype for these watches has crested, and longing for Swatch to go back to making really cool Swatches like the ones so many of us grew up with. The truth is, Swatch never stopped making exactly those kinds of watches, but they’ve been somewhat lost in the hysteria for the MoonSwatch. Now, though, comes a series of watches that I think might actually rival the MoonSwatch in terms of enthusiast interest, at least in some quarters. The latest entry in the Swatch Art Journey collection (that has already seen releases this year with watches based on pieces by Roy Lichtenstein, René Magritte, and others) is ...
Deployant
Louis Moinet creates a real work of art with their new Savanna Tourbillon - with hand painted artisanal dials which are assembled in 4 layers.
Grail Watch collaborated with Delugs on straps for Grail Watch 8: Kudoke 2 ‘Starry Night.’ Constant got together with Ashley, the Operation Executive of Delugs, to take a closer look into Delugs CTS Rubber strap and the Babele Denim Leather strap, both of which will be included in this amazing collaboration.
Worn & Wound
Name any type of environment or situation, whether that be diving the depths of the ocean, exploring far-flung terrains, or navigating the skies, the Citizen Promaster without question has a very-capable watch for the job. But given the sheer amount of watches in Citizen’s catalog, their bread and butter remains within their collection of dive watches. Sure, you’ll find a straight-forward steel black dial diver, it’s a must for any watch brand. But just like how you’ll find fish in the ocean, you can also expect to discover a handful of eccentric divers with inquisitive case silhouettes and lume dials that’ll keep up with any bioluminescent organism in the dark. Citizen’s new addition to the Promaster Dive Automatic collection leans more into its marine animal namesake, the “Fugu” which in Japanese, translates to “pufferfish,” with its new dial texture, caseback emblem and a couple of case updates. Now it’s going to be obvious that I’ve used this introduction for Citizens Promaster Dive Automatic novelties as an excuse to learn more about the pufferfish, so be prepared for some facts about the well-known Tetraodontidae family member. That said, let’s dig right into the updates to the case, shall we? The three new Citizen divers are now fitted with a sapphire crystal and a 120-click unidirectional bezel. With the insert still made out of aluminum, Citizen has changed the bezel system to offer higher timing precision during diving scenarios such as ...
Worn & Wound
As I was considering how to begin this review, I found myself thinking about my own perception of how micro-brands get their start. Many of my favorite brands seem to come to life fully formed, with a watch or small collection that would appear to completely distill their essence, as if they’ve already gone through every possible growing pain. In the past few months I’ve come across more and more brands that seem to have figured it out immediately, with introductory watches that appear to be the product of a seasoned brand. Atmoss is the latest brand to make me feel this way with its debut watch, the SR-01. A clean and comfortable design presented as being a modern interpretation of a traditional pilot watch. One that has enough of what matters and none of what doesn’t, at least in my opinion. While pilot watches are not my primary focus as an enthusiast and collector, the SR-01 wound up winning me over, and has a suite of impressive specs that make it a legitimate entry into the genre at a price point that makes sense for those who might want to dabble in a watch with an aviation theme. The Right Specifications for the Right Price Although I try as much as possible to not put the words “specifications” and “price” in the same sentence, sometimes it’s impossible not to. Especially when the price tag of a watch falls well below the $500 mark. The SR-01 has a lot going for it considering its accessibility. First, reasonable dimensions with a case diameter...
Deployant
Here is our hands-on comprehensive review of the new Chopard Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF in titanium, launched recently in Watches & Wonders 2023.
SJX Watches
Seiko debuted its first solar-powered GPS watch just over a decade ago and has since improved and iterated the model, ranging from an extravagant, 18k pink gold limited edition to the asymmetric Giugiaro Design. But most of the Astron GPS watches to date have resembled gadgets, with cases featuring lots of buttons and dials with numerous indicators. Now Seiko has cleaned up the dial design and streamlined the case to create the Astron GPS Solar, which sports an octagonal titanium case and matching integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts Able to automatically set the time and time zone by syncing to GPS satellites, the Astron has always been an impressive piece of tech. But it has long looked like a piece of tech with its bulk case and fiddly interface. The limited edition SJJ017 The new Astron, however, looks like a wristwatch. With an integrated-bracelet and grid-like patterned dial, the new Astron ticks all the boxes in terms of the current fashionable in watch design. Granted, the design isn’t exactly original, but the sleek style and compact size mean the new Astron is more compelling offering than its predecessors. And the new models cost only slightly more than prior versions, making them a no-brainer for anyone who appreciates the tech but wants a more sophisticated design. A familiar construction The redesigned Astron is made up of elements that appear to be drawn from popular luxury-sports watches, most notably the octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet. Even...
Hodinkee
With US-inspired stylings and big dreams for the future of American watchmaking, MEC has started out strong.
Worn & Wound
Zodiac continues to plumb the depths of their archives with their latest release, the Sea-Chron chronograph. Originating in the 1960s, the Sea-Chron was a natural extension of the Sea Wolf, a platform that Zodiac has returned to in recent years to great success. This sporty diver’s chronograph picks up on a lot of the aesthetic cues of the classic Sea Wolf, but has some key technical upgrades that put it squarely in modern watch territory. It also fills a fairly wide hole in the Zodiac catalog – it’s hard to believe, but up until this week, they didn’t have a chronograph in their collection. Zodiac envisions the Sea-Chron as a true multipurpose sports watch. Like their dive watches, the Sea-Chron has a full 200 meters of water resistance, and the case has been outfitted with a timing bezel with a twenty minute interval. Inside the timing bezel and at the dial’s perimeter, you’ll find a tachymeter that can be used completely independently of the Sea-Chron’s dive timing features. The handset is the familiar Zodiac fence post design, and squared off apertures with lume underneath for the hours, except at 3, 6 and 9, where you’ll find the sub registers for minute and hour totalizations, and a running seconds indicator. There are two variants of the Sea-Chron available at launch. One in a clean black and white colorway that would appear to prize legibility above all else. This version has a black base dial and white subdials, and, crucially, a white tachymet...
Worn & Wound
The Zenith Defy collection of watches spans an almost shocking array of references, including watches like the Revival darlings, right on up to crazy Defy Extremes and Defy 21s. Connecting all of these dots is the new(ish) Defy Skyline collection, which was introduced early last year, and which welcomed new iterations this year, including a variant meant to replace the excellent Defy Classic with an open dial. That watch is the Defy Skyline Skeleton, and it’s not simply an openworked version of the regular Skyline. This is a distinct watch in a few important ways, bringing some of the big personality found in the Extreme and 21 references, into a slightly more approachable framework. The Skyline Skeleton takes its Defy roots seriously. From its wrist watch inception back in the ‘60s, the Defy has been a vehicle through which Zenith has strived to craft the future of watchmaking. This manifested in avant guard shapes, high-tech movements, and intricate bracelet integrations from the get go. Today, Zenith honors this heritage with their Revival series, but for all intents and purposes, the Defy range as it exists today, is still pushing the envelope in looking to the future. $11000 [VIDEO] Hands-On: Zenith Opens Up the Defy Skyline with Skyline Skeleton Case Stainless Steel Movement El Primero 3620 SK high-frequency Dial Black or Blue Skeleton Lume Super Luminova Lens Sapphire Strap Stainless Steel; Rubber Water Resistance 10ATM Dimensions 41x46mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug ...
Deployant
Urwerk extends their popular UR-100 collection with the new UR-100V Magic T, using touches of bright colours to highlight the metallic grey watch.
SJX Watches
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception. The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials. That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...
Hodinkee
The designer of Tudor's Black Bay brings a career of industry experience to the growing British brand.
Worn & Wound
The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. Also, don’t forget to join the Windup Watch Shop’s rewards program to earn points with every purchase and save. The post The Roundup – Value-Packed Field Watches, a Unique Desk Accessory, and a No-Brainer Update to Your EDC appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The latest news to come from our friends at Massena LAB doesn’t actually concern a new watch, but rather an entirely new retail operation. Last week, William Massena, the founder of the NYC based creative studio that has produced a string of popular limited edition watches over the last three years, announced Massena HOUSE, which he describes as a new community and retail concept that will focus on independent watchmaking. We seem to be heading toward a period where interest in independent brands across the pricing spectrum is at a fever pitch, so the timing here would appear to be ideal on Massena’s part. What’s more, the first brand announced to be sold through Massena HOUSE is a real coup. Daniel Roth, having recently been relaunched, is the first brand Massena has announced will be retailed through his Massena HOUSE operation. To paraphrase a quote that is sometimes heard in the political realm, this is a very big deal indeed. Daniel Roth’s eponymous brand is one of the origin points of the modern independent watchmaking movement that is currently flourishing worldwide. It’s been owned by Bulgari for years, and thus wrapped up in the LVMH corporate structure, but earlier this year after a great deal of speculation it was confirmed that the brand would reappear with an assist from La Fabrique Du Temps, Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking arm. It would be a mistake to write La Fabrique Du Temps, or Louis Vuitton for that matter, off as part of a larger “fashion b...
Deployant
Hands-on comprehensive review of the new Jaeger-LeCoultra Reverso Tribute Chronograph released recently at Watches & Wonders 2023.
Hodinkee
A first-of-its-kind white Explorer 1016 is set to be auctioned this week – here's the fact and the fiction behind these ridiculously rare vintage Rolex dials.
WatchAdvice
If you’re in the market for a good two-tone sports watch, then the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel and Ethical 18k Rose Gold may just be the watch you’re looking for! What We Love Wearability and comfortTHAT Iris of the Eagle dial!Sturdy, good looking movement What We Don’t Lack of taper on the braceletNo ability for size adjustmentsClasp not easy to open Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Chopard is a brand that’s probably not first on people’s list when they think of a steel sports watch. In fact, it may not be even top three. I know it wasn’t for me, and if you’re like me and think about steel sports watches, then your mind probably runs through a range of brands from Rolex, to TAG Heuer, to Omega, Breitling, Tudor, and the like. But maybe, you should think of Chopard? The Alpine Eagle in 18k Ethical Rose Gold and Lucent Steel As the watch community’s lust for steel sports watches continued to rise, Chopard recognised this and introduced the Alpine Eagle in 2019 – a modern re-interpretation of the 1970s St. Moritz, the first timepiece that was created by (now Co-President of Chopard) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. And it was a good release. The star of the watch was the Iris of the Eagle dial that if you have seen it in person, is mesmerizing. And let me tell you, it is very cool. For this review, I was lucky enough to get my hands on the two tone variant in Chopard’s 18k Ethical Rose G...
SJX Watches
One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...
We’re at Windup Watch Fair San Francisco for a special episode of A Week in Watches. With over 60 brands, this was the biggest Windup Watch Fair yet. Your hosts, Zach Weiss, Zach Kazan, and Blake Buettner will take you through some new releases from the fair, as well as take a look at some watches and brands that caught their eyes from Christopher Ward to Arcanaut. Be sure to keep an eye on windupwatchfair.com for information on future shows. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Worn & Wound+ Slack community, our new, free Slack channel for Worn & Wound fans. Will tons of conversations across various channels, Worn & Wound + is a fun environment to talk about watches with other like-minded enthusiasts as well as the Worn & Wound team. To join, all you have to do is sign up for the Worn & Wound newsletter, and an invite will come your way. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 48: Windup Watch Fair San Francisco 2023 Special appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
There are many celebrities who are watch collectors and enthusiasts that get talked about extensively – such as John Mayer or Jay Z – but someone who isn’t discussed that much amongst watch lovers is Canadian R&B; singer Daniel Caesar. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Daniel Caesar (@danielcaesar) The … ContinuedThe post R&B; singer Daniel Caesar is a serious watch geek and his Patek Philippe album cover is the stone-cold proof appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this edition of the 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris W. shares a personal trio of watches that serve as foundation pieces in his own collection, representing a diverse cross section of watch making, and encompassing unique styles in the process. If you’d like to submit your own 3 watch collection for $5,000 can you do so at the form right here. I own these watches as part of a 21 watch collection. While I’m a big Seiko and Grand Seiko fan with 7 (Grand-, King- and other) Seiko’s in the box, I do love my French, German and British watches too. I can never quite say what my favourite 3 piece collection would look like. For his budget, on this rainy day, this is the set I’d choose to keep. Tomorrow, my answer might be different. Nomos Ahoi Neomatik Atlantik 36 – ~$2,500 I picked up this watch in 2017, and it has proven to be a true go anywhere, do everything watch. Stick it on a cordovan strap, and you can wear it with a suit because of it’s discrete 36x9x48mm dimensions. If you stick it on the included canvas strap, you can go snorkelling, hiking or biking with it because of the solid 200m water resistance. The polished case will look great with a bit of wabi-sabi from wear and tear, and the movement is the first completely in house developed and produced Nomos caliber, at 3,2mm thick including the rotor. The somewhat strict looking Bauhaus design is made much less stark because Nomos excels at little splashes of colour, whe...
Hodinkee
The next generation of the enthusiast-favorite annual calendar chronograph is reintroduced by one of its original designers.
SJX Watches
Arguably the master of movement decoration, Philippe Dufour is revered for the impeccable finishing of his wristwatches – along with a handful of pocket watches, including the Grande Sonnerie pocket watch that sold in 2021 at Philips for CHF2.33 million including fees. But the first timepieces Mr Dufour made never bore his name on the dial. They were a series of five grande sonnerie pocket watches created for Audemars Piguet (AP) that he began in the late 1970s and completed in 1988. The very first of the five, the Grande Sonnerie Pocket Watch no. 1 – by Philippe Dufour for Audemars Piguet – will go under the hammer at Philips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 13 and 14, 2023. (Video courtesy of Phillips) Initial Thoughts Having slowly gone out of fashion starting in the early 2000s, pocket watches tend to go under the radar when set against comparable wristwatches. In 2021, Philippe Dufour’s own Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for more than double his grande sonnerie pocket watch – in the same auction. However, anyone who understands independent watchmaker and Mr Dufour’s work will appreciate the significance of this pocket watch. This not only predates the Philippe Dufour brand, but the series of five watches made for AP was the impetus for him to strike out on his own. Because of what he perceived as deeply disrespectful behaviour by AP executives, Mr Dufour vowed never again to make watches for others after completing the five watches for AP. ...
SJX Watches
Online watch auctioneers Loupe This have just listed a Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer in an online-only sale that runs from now till May 11. Barely a handful have emerged – one was sold at Phillips Perpetual in London in 2021 – but this example is the first to go under the hammer. The scarcity is of the Double Impulse Chronometer on the secondary market is simply because there are few of them in circulation. Around 50 have been made to date and with about a dozen being produced each year, the wait for an order placed now stands at about eight years. The exceptional demand for the watch is entirely justified, since the Double Impulse Chronometer is arguably the most significant English wristwatch in production today. Consigned by the original owner, this specimen is quintessential Frodsham. Numbered “010800” and delivered in September 2019, this is one of the first examples made, the 13th in fact, according to Richard Stenning, co-owner of Charles Frodsham. More notably, it is an unusual combination of a stainless steel case and white ceramic dial with double cyphers. According to Mr Stenning, this was the first of only two watches with this configuration made to date. The cyphers are an option but arguably crucial since they reference the firm’s history and add to the vintage-inspired styling of the dial. Historically found on Frodsham pocket watches – often engraved on the movement but sometimes on the dial – such cyphers indicated Royal Warrant...
Hodinkee
This wasn't part of the regularly scheduled programming, but behold shots of a watch nobody has seen…until now.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor Starting this week off with a killer vintage diver, a Bucherer Archimedes Super Compressor. This beauty is the classic 36mm dual crown type, with the same case style used by companies like Bulova, Hamilton, Enicar and Benrus to name a few. The Archimedes stands out from other Super Compressors with the bright orange dial. This example is in excellent condition with an unpolished case and flawless dial. The dual crowns are the oversized type, with the classic cross-hatched design on the ends. Seller states the watch runs well, but no movement picture. You really can’t go wrong with these EPSA cased Super Compressor divers, and they are only getting more desired by collectors and harder to find in good shape. View auction here. Vintage Accutron Navigator Here’s a rare and unusual piece, a vintage 1967 Accutron Navigator Mark 2 ships chronometer. These were used as extremely accurate time keeping devices on ships to aid in navigation. Usually these are high grade manual clocks, but Accutron dipped their toes in the water (see what I did there? ;-)) with their tuning fork movements. I read that this clock used three tuning fork movements mounted at...
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