Hodinkee
In Partnership - Mid-Century, Made New: Baume & Mercier's New Clifton Collection
Baume & Mercier delights with modern engineering in the refined 1950s-inspired Clifton collection
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Hodinkee
Baume & Mercier delights with modern engineering in the refined 1950s-inspired Clifton collection
SJX Watches
Hublot has just unveiled the Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons, its latest — and arguably most striking — collaboration with a contemporary artist. Crafted from anodised aluminium, the case of the watch is delicately machined to almost perfectly replicate the creased, metallic look of a mylar balloon. The plump inflated look extends to the dial and strap, and the watch can be had in three different colours — red, blue, and silver — each of which is limited to 200 pieces. The Balloon Dog is powered by the HUB1710, an upmarket execution of the in-group Zenith Elite platform. Initial thoughts Jeff Koons is likely one of the few contemporary artists with mainstream name recognition outside the world of fine art. While he is arguably best known for his large-scale sculptures, including the Balloon Dog referenced by his collaboration with Hublot, he has had a prolific career and worked in numerous mediums. But it is his ability to replicate the tight, creased look of inflated latex and mylar in materials like stainless steel and aluminium that have cemented his status in the world of contemporary art. The Classic Fusion Balloon Dog taps exactly this expertise, crafted in anodised aluminium with a rounded, puffy form that transforms the sharp, angular Hublot style into something more soft and playful. The result is immediately recognisable thanks to the thoughtfulness of the execution. The familiar Hublot details are present, but have been carefully machined to loo...
Time+Tide
The new Hublot Classic Fusion Balloon Dog by Jeff Koons Limited Editions fuse an iconic work of art with an iconic watch design.
SJX Watches
Having formed its brand identity with a cushion-shaped case inspired by 1970s designs, Singer Reimagined is now turning to another facet of that decade’s designs. The 1970 Dualtrack is angular with tall bezel and semi-integrated bracelet, marking an entirely new design language for the brand, which is an offshoot of cult “restomod” automaker Singer Vehicle Design. Like the earlier version of the model, the 1970 Dualtrack is a twin time zone watch with a “caller” GMT indicated via a 24-hour ring. It’s powered by an unusual movement with four spaced out barrels that combine for a six day power reserve. Initial thoughts The 1970 is a natural extension of Singer’s retro style that’s conceptually logical, but also appealing in terms of product. The new case design is wearable and also different enough from the cushion-shaped case to make it distinct. If anything, the 1970 might be too ordinary, making it less recognisable as a Singer creation. That said, the design is thoughtful. The attention to the detail in the design reflects Singer founder Marco Borracino’s background as a designer. The angular case has polished, chamfered edges that continue into the bracelet, while the polished bezel has high, fluted sides. It’s clearly inspired by the 1970s, but executed to a higher level than actual 1970s watches in this style that tended to be entry-level timepieces. And compared to the cushion-shaped cases that defined Singer until now, the new 1970 case is more c...
Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original relaunches the Seventies collection with its distinctive square "TV"-shaped cases and some upgrades.
Time+Tide
Echo/Neutra updates its 1956 Chrono GMT with two new colourways With a brown-and-taupe Cappuccino model and a deep-wine-toned Purple model, both inject colour into a highly functional watch with chronograph and GMT functions. Available now, the Echo/Neutra 1956 Chrono GMT in both Cappuccino and Purple start at US$2,400 on a strap. Echo/neutra has gotten a lot … Continued
WristBuzz
Venezianico goes lighter and more Italian with the Redentore Levius, pairing a titanium case with a hand-guilloché dial and an in-house-spirit movement made on home soil.
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC releases the Ingeniuer Automatic 50th Anniversary editions paying tribute to the iconic integrated bracelet sports watch.
Teddy Baldassarre
Modeled after the famed 1950s Padellone ref. 8171, this complete instantaneous annual calendar brings that design into the 21st century. More
Hodinkee
Ready or not, auction season is back. I don't know about you, but I wasn't expecting it so soon. While the auction cycle is generally synced up for Geneva and New York sales a bit later in the fall, Sotheby's is doing the earliest big sale of the fall with "Important Watches" in Hong Kong on September 18. Personally, I'm still working through the best way to handle auction coverage, as the number of watches is often daunting. That challenge gets worse with Hong Kong sales, which we've generally struggled to stay on top of for a number of reasons. One of which, and this is a complaint for all auction houses, is that there are too many lots in Hong Kong sales. This is driven by both the market location (many of these watches were sourced locally—something I know because I know a decent number of these watches) and the forces behind the auction house and its metrics. Sometimes you have to make sellers happy and take what they want to get at other things (like taking random Hermès bags in a watch sale, as we see this time). It can be overwhelming for a buyer, and for you and me as readers. I want to find the interesting, great deals in the mid- and low-range and share them with you, but I also can't ignore the impressive pieces that might shape the broader market. One important note: for Hong Kong sales, I never get to see the watches in person. It's a lot easier for me to stand in front of a case of watches and pick things up by feel, closely evaluate condition and origi...
WristBuzz
The watch that set diamonds free turns 50, and Chopard is marking the moment with a Heritage edition that looks back without losing its nerve.
SJX Watches
The slate of truly new releases from Geneva Watch Days was fairly limited, but among the many new variants of existing models, the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 3SPC.4-1 stood out for its lightweight and richly tactile ceramised titanium case and casual, almost sporty look. Initial thoughts Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) is no stranger to exotic case materials, having used ceramised titanium before (for the FB 1RES.4) as well as carburised stainless steel and bronze. But the FB 3SPC.4-1 is just the second FB 3SPC to come dressed in a non-precious metal case, and the first with a ceramised coating. The FB 3SPC arguably gives up some ground in the looks department, though this is subjective; many collectors find the exposed movement preferable to a conventional dial, since it makes it easier to appreciate the finishing without taking off the watch. That said, the design impacts legibility and some aspects of the layout seem counterintuitive, such as the upside-down orientation of the dial-side balance wheel. The FB 3SPC debuted in 2022 and remains the high-end brand’s entry level model, though with a retail price approaching US$200,000, it’s priced in line with complicated models from established brands. The value proposition of this time-only watch hinges on the appeal of the cylindrical hairspring — which while not unique in contemporary watchmaking is executed superbly — and the no-expense-spared approach to finishing that FB is known for. The pricing also reflects the low-volum...
Fratello
Gérald Genta designed many masterpieces during his lifetime, but the IWC Ingenieur SL is often mentioned in the same breath as two of his greatest designs from the same decade. The IWC Ingenieur SL1832 was introduced in 1976, and 50 years later, it might be even stronger than ever. To celebrate this milestone, IWC has […] Visit 50 Years Of IWC’s Ingenieur SL Designed By Gérald Genta — A New IWC Ingenieur Automatic In Two Sizes to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded by Toni Brodführer, DUG Glashütte focuses on producing watches in accordance with the requirements of the Glashütte designation of origin, and the inaugural Purist was conceived as a straightforward proposition built around the traditions of Saxon watchmaking. The brand is now expanding the collection with a smaller case. The new Purist 37 retains the […]
WristBuzz
Benrus isn't just reissuing old hits this time. The Type 3X is something genuinely new, and it has some serious input behind it.
Hodinkee
What We Know Victorinox has refreshed the Maverick in what amounts to the most dramatic reinvention of the line since it was first introduced over two decades ago. The Maverick line has long been a fixture in Victorinox's watch offerings, and the new generation introduced this week reinforces its position as Victorinox's "dressy" take on a dive (or dive-inspired) watch. The new Maverick, available in a handful of colors across quartz and automatic models, largely keeps the same ethos and intent as previous Mavericks, but sheds much (read: nearly all) of the visual identity that has made the Maverick recognizable over the last twenty-odd years. Now measuring 39mm across, the new watches are simpler, smaller, and more focused in their design than the outgoing generation. The watch is available in two basic models — one quartz, powered by a Ronda 715 movement, and the other automatic, powered by a Sellita SW200. The watches are largely similar, but a few subtle differences remain. The first is the bezel (bidirectional on both models). The quartz version uses a polished mineral insert, while the automatic uses a polished ceramic with a fully luminous scale. The markers are also slightly different, and while each version's caseback is decorated with a Swiss Army Knife, the caseback on the automatic is transparent with a wireframe graphic, while that of the quartz is solid with an engraved image. Beyond that, these watches are very similar, so choices come down to movement and...
Hodinkee
What We Know With Benrus's revival well underway, 2026 opened with the reintroduction of the Sky Chief, a longtime Hodinkee favorite. Now the brand follows it with something new rather than another reissue: the Type 3X, developed in collaboration with U.S. Special Forces veterans. The watch traces back to the same premise that produced the original Type I and Type II: in the 1970s, the U.S. military wrote a formal MIL-SPEC for a wristwatch, and Benrus built the result. For the Type 3X, Benrus assembled a team of former Tier One special operations veterans to design a modern version of that watch from the ground up, prioritizing function over styling. The Type 3X comes in two styles: one with a black composite-carbon case and a green mid-case, and another with a silver case and a black mid-case. Both pair a unidirectional rotating titanium dive bezel with an aluminum inner ring, and a single-domed sapphire crystal with a double anti-reflective coating. The black dial carries Old Radium Super-LumiNova on the markers and hands, with a date window aperture at 6 o'clock. Inside is the ETA 2893 automatic movement, delivering a 42-hour power reserve, 250 gauss of anti-magnetic resistance, and a 24-hour quickset GMT hand offering "caller-style" functionality. Water resistance is rated to 20 atm (660 feet). The case closes with a titanium caseback featuring the Benrus logo. The Type 3X comes on a color matching velcro fabric strap with an additional black rubber strap included. I...
Deployant
We got a preview of the new MB&F; SP One Pavée at GWD26 up in their suite. Here is my hands-on impressions handling the novelty in Geneva.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
In this Caravelle Sea Hunter review, we take a look at the 39mm automatic diver and if it can fill a gap left by Seiko and others.
SJX Watches
With around 130 people producing just 200 watches per year, Greubel Forsey seems to have returned to its roots and abandoned plans to expand production further. On the latest episode of the SJX Podcast, CEO Michel Nydegger explains why the brand’s approach to watchmaking doesn’t scale and why growth is not a priority. Recorded just after Geneva Watch Days, the conversation covers co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure from operations, the new Qualité Musée finishing standard, and the challenge of preserving the brand’s distinctive movement architecture in smaller watches. We also discuss the traditional skills behind the Hand Made series, how R&D; is pursued without a particular product in mind, and why (but not how) a watchmaker secretly slipped a dozen handmade hairsprings into regular production watches for unbiased real-world testing. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Fratello
For more than three decades, Christophe Claret has been one of the names enthusiasts look to for unusual and interesting displays, animation, sound, and complications. Now, after a difficult period that saw the Christophe Claret brand enter insolvency proceedings, the independent watchmaker is beginning a completely new chapter. On August 27th, 2026, the brand announced […] Visit Christophe Claret Is Back, And He Wants To Push Even Further This Time to read the full article.
Time+Tide
The Roman brand has teamed up with one of the most well-respected names in independent watchmaking for something special.
Fratello
It’s that time of the week again — time for Sunday Morning Showdown! And this week, regardless of who wins, Tudor blood will be spilled. That’s right, it’s Tudor versus Tudor in a battle of the brand’s yellow-handed, sporty GMT offerings. That includes the new Tudor Northflag GMT, introduced just over a week ago, and […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Northflag Vs. Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.
Time+Tide
This week brings some wildcards to the selection. In the dust that settled after Geneva Watch Days, François-Paul Journe announced a unique piece created with Prince Albert II of Monaco, to be auctioned for charity; Jacob & Co. gives new meaning to “gem-set” with a diamond-encrusted balance wheel; and Delma steps away from its usual … Continued
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. You Can See Everything Trailer Next to my wedding day and the birth of my niece, I can’t think of anything else that I’ve been this eager for in my entire life. This week, the trailer for You Can See Everything, the latest project by Nathan Fielder, dropped. For those unaware of Fielder’s work, there is no way to explain it properly without it sounding absolutely insane. His early hit Nathan for You followed the comedian giving bizarre business advice to real people, which led to, among other things: a fake Starbucks, a gas rebate that required hiking up a mountain, and an escape stunt where failure meant exposing himself to a group of children. His HBO series The Rehearsal brought on something of a Fielder renaissance, with the latest season culminating in Fielder flying a plane of paid actors in a Boeing 737. Just pure insanity. For You Can See Everything, Fielder’s latest subject is Elizabeth Holmes, the Theranos founder convicted of fraud after the collapse of her blood-testing company. Co-directed with Lance Oppenheim, the documentary follows Holmes in the 34 days before she reported to prison (and features an unsettling interaction between Fielder and Hol...
Quill & Pad
Trade fairs remain a powerful tool for commerce in many industries, especially when it comes to fashion of all kinds, including watches. Not all fairs are alike; each has its own personality, often reflective of the local ecosystem.
Fratello
Siam Paragon Bangkok Watch Week returns from September 22nd to 27th, 2026, for its second edition. The six-day event brings together more than 45 watch brands, over 200 new and rare timepieces, collectors, and watch enthusiasts at Siam Paragon in Bangkok. The program includes exhibitions, special showcases, watchmaking experiences, masterclasses, and The Symposium, which will […] Visit Bangkok Watch Week 2026: A Growing Destination For Watch Collectors to read the full article.
Fratello
Fayy is making its debut with something hard to ignore. The Hong Kong-based brand has introduced the Manman Panda, a 39mm titanium watch with a hand-painted panda on the underside of its sapphire crystal. It features Chinese inner painting, a craft with more than two centuries of history, and Fayy has entered the watch in […] Visit Fayy’s Manman Panda Watch Puts Chinese Inner Painting On Sapphire to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-weekly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Seiko 6139-6009 “Pogue” There are many famous vintage Seikos, but few are as iconic as the 6139 “Pogue” automatic chronograph with the yellow dial. Made famous of course by Col. William Pogue wearing one on his Skylab 4 mission in 1973, making it the first automatic chronograph worn in space! While this example isn’t the exact model, pretty much all the vintage 6139-600X models with a yellow dial are considered a “Pogue” by collectors. This example looks all original and in good shape. The case is unpolished with crisp edges and the original brushed finish, but it does have a few dings from honest use. The bright yellow dial is nice, and there is some aging to the lume on the dial and hands, not uncommon. The watch comes on the original and correct Seiko H-link bracelet. No movement picture but the watch runs per the seller. View auction here Vintage Eterna KonTiki Here’s a fantastic vintage Eterna KonTiki 20 with the original bracelet. Eterna made a plethora of various KonTiki models, both divers and sport/dress models. This version is the latter. The steel case is probably in the 36mm range although the seller doesn’t specify. But the case is in great sh...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Alpina brings solar power to the Startimer Pilot with a compact 38mm case and a La Joux-Perret-developed movement with 10 months of autonomy.
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