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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Tudor’s Black Bay 58 18K Finally Has a Matching Solid Gold Bracelet Worn & Wound
Tudor s Black Bay 58 Apr 19, 2024

Tudor’s Black Bay 58 18K Finally Has a Matching Solid Gold Bracelet

In the pantheon of modern enthusiast brands, it’s hard to deny that Tudor sits at the top of the heap. One simple explanation for this is that Tudor is really good at giving us what we want - almost. They also have a history of giving us something exceedingly close to exactly what we ask for, with a slight twist, then having us fall in love with it anyway. When Tudor introduced the Black Bay 58, it was a clear winner. If you’ve ever been to an event where watch collectors gather en masse you’re sure to have run into one. But the original black colorway, with its heavily vintage coloring and gilt accents, wasn’t quite the modern aesthetic some people were looking for. That watch came three years later when Tudor dropped the Black Bay 58 Blue kind of out of nowhere on a random day in July 2020 (although pretty much any day that summer would have felt decidedly random). The Black Bay 58 was off like a rocket. So it wasn’t much of a surprise when, in 2021, Tudor released two more versions of the 58. What was a massive surprise was that the two new additions to the lineup were each made in precious metal. Naturally, people had thoughts. I, for one, was on board with the move, and the Black Bay 58 925 Silver is easily one of my favorite Tudors. For as much as people seemed to generally like these watches, there was a clear sense that something was missing. That something was a bracelet. Now, Tudor has solved that problem, at least for the Black Bay 58 18K. In just ab...

Looking Back At A Lukewarm Watches And Wonders 2024 With Some Hot And Cold Watches Fratello
Apr 18, 2024

Looking Back At A Lukewarm Watches And Wonders 2024 With Some Hot And Cold Watches

A Watches and Wonders impression is best served cold. A little distance from the fair is necessary to transform impressions into organized thoughts. Six days should do the trick. So, what impression did the biggest watch show on Earth make on me? Well, going through my notes led to this story that includes some hot […] Visit Looking Back At A Lukewarm Watches And Wonders 2024 With Some Hot And Cold Watches to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Watches And Wonders 2024 - Much Ado About Nothing Fratello
Apr 16, 2024

Fratello On Air: Watches And Wonders 2024 - Much Ado About Nothing

After a three-week break, Fratello On Air returns. One of us traveled to Geneva, while the other went to Florida. Both of us saw fancy cars, but only one of us saw impressive watches. The question of who might have a surprising answer! Watches and Wonders 2024 has come and gone, and, frankly, it was […] Visit Fratello On Air: Watches And Wonders 2024 - Much Ado About Nothing to read the full article.

Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024 Time+Tide
Hermes Apr 9, 2024

Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024

As a rule, fashion brands and watches don’t usually mix. However, Hermès is a rare exception. Not only is Hermès one of the most highly revered fashion brands of all time, but in recent years, it has gained a significant foothold in being able to compete with the best in the watch business. Firstly, the … ContinuedThe post Every Hermès release from Watches & Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: Grand Seiko SLGW003 And SLGW002 “Birch Bark” Hand-Winders Fratello
Grand Seiko SLGW003 Apr 9, 2024

Introducing: Grand Seiko SLGW003 And SLGW002 “Birch Bark” Hand-Winders

As part of the Watches and Wonders 2024 releases from Grand Seiko, here we have the Grand Seiko SLGW003 and SLGW002. These are two new additions to the Evolution 9 collection. This is Grand Seiko’s newer design language that, while rooted in the 44GS, aims to push the brand forward. Today, Grand Seiko adds two […] Visit Introducing: Grand Seiko SLGW003 And SLGW002 “Birch Bark” Hand-Winders to read the full article.

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph Apr 9, 2024

Hands On: Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph

Perhaps unsurprising given Cartier’s track record with the Privé collection, the jeweller has revived its popular single-button chronograph – but with an all-new movement. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph is a manual-wind chronograph powered by the cal. 1928 MC, a form movement conceived for the watch. Making its debut well over a decade after the discontinuation of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) version, the new Tortue Monopoussoir is slightly larger than its predecessor, but also thinner and more elegantly proportioned. While the cal. 1928 MC inside is new – the movement is notable in itself – the aesthetic is more vintage inspired, particularly on the yellow gold version; the other version is platinum. The cal. 1928 MC Initial thoughts Although relatively straightforward in concept and design, the Tortue Monopoussoir is executed well. Although the visuals are faithful to the vintage originals, especially with the yellow gold version, the watch feels contemporary because of the size. At just over 10 mm high, the proportions of the case are excellent. It feels elegant and neither too big nor too small. And it is surprisingly thin for a chronograph, which is especially appealing. Relatively to its predecessors, the new Tortue Monopoussoir sits in between: larger than the first CPCP version, but smaller than the CPCP XL model, making it just right. Between the yellow gold and platinum models, the former looks most like the 1928 origin...

Watches for Engineers and Scientists: A Brief History in Six Iconic Ti Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 5, 2024

Watches for Engineers and Scientists: A Brief History in Six Iconic Ti

Looking at the watch market as it exists today, one will notice that the most popular styles, even on the luxury end, have their roots in “tool watches” aimed at a particular audience of users: professional and recreational divers, pilots and aviation hobbyists, competitive racing drivers and motorsport enthusiasts, military operators and outdoorsy weekend warriors. Nearly all of these styles trace their origins back to the early to mid-20th Century - an era in which, around the same time, many watchmakers were developing another style of tool watch, one that we really don’t see as much anymore because so many of its elements have been absorbed into the mainstream, incorporated into sport watches and dress watches alike: a watch targeting engineers and scientists who plied their trade around magnetic fields. Here are six of the most important watches from this now-rare genre and a bit of historical information about what each of them contributed.  1930: Tissot Antimagnetique The need for a watch that could withstand the ill effects of magnetic fields was felt as early as the 1920s, when the use of electricity in homes as well as businesses became more widespread. One of the first watchmakers to respond was Tissot, founded in 1850 in the Swiss town of Le Locle. In 1930, Tissot released to the market the aptly named Antimagnetique, the first wristwatch with a magnetism-resistant movement. Tissot accomplished this feat by using the non-magnetic metal palladium for v...

Sotheby’s is hosting a ‘Rough Diamonds’ watch auction soon in Geneva INSIDE A CAVE Time+Tide
Apr 4, 2024

Sotheby’s is hosting a ‘Rough Diamonds’ watch auction soon in Geneva INSIDE A CAVE

A watch auction hosted inside of a cave? Surely not. Well, do not be so sure because this is 100% actually happening next week in Geneva. Dubbed by Sotheby’s as the ‘Rough Diamonds’ auction, the sale will be hosted underground at the wine cellar La Corne à Vin (47 bis Rue de Lausanne, Geneva) on … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s is hosting a ‘Rough Diamonds’ watch auction soon in Geneva INSIDE A CAVE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938 Fratello
Apr 4, 2024

#TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938

It looks like a joke, and it sounds like one too, but it’s a serious piece of wrist equipment. The name Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special sounds like a headline from a cheap tabloid - a watch you couldn’t take seriously today. But looking at it closely, there are so many distinct details […] Visit #TBT Orfina Golden Flame Double Automatic Twin Special Ref. 6938 to read the full article.

Fantastic Fables: Are We Fooling Ourselves To Justify Liking Watches? Fratello
Apr 4, 2024

Fantastic Fables: Are We Fooling Ourselves To Justify Liking Watches?

Ambrose Bierce published Fantastic Fables back in 1899. It is a bundle of short fairy tales, most of which are absurd and feature an ironic plot twist. This unique combination reminds me of our behavior as watch lovers. Just as Bierce wrote about a woman who shot her man dead to prevent him from leaving […] Visit Fantastic Fables: Are We Fooling Ourselves To Justify Liking Watches? to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Waitlists, Limited Editions, And Things That Make A Watch Worthwhile Fratello
Casio ns added value Apr 4, 2024

Fratello Talks: Waitlists, Limited Editions, And Things That Make A Watch Worthwhile

Welcome to a fresh new episode of Fratello Talks. Today, RJ and Lex join Nacho for a varied chat centered around the topic of things that make a watch worthwhile. From waitlists to limited editions and even watches for special occasions, added value is not really a matter of price. Does a reasonable wait add […] Visit Fratello Talks: Waitlists, Limited Editions, And Things That Make A Watch Worthwhile to read the full article.