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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Up Close: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono SJX Watches
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Oct 12, 2020

Up Close: Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono

Luxury-sports watches are the flavour of the day, and brands in every price segment offer something in the category. Given the fad, Chopard’s launch of the Alpine Eagle last year wasn’t much of a surprise, although the fact that the Alpine Eagle was a reboot of the 1980s St Moritz was unexpected, since the St Moritz was never really a hit. But the St Moritz was smartly reworked, creating a watch that is good looking and in typical Chopard style, very well made and also well priced. The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono has all of the qualities of last year’s base model, but everything comes together better on the chronograph. And despite being more complicated and thus more expensive, the chronograph is arguably better value, and perhaps even the best in class. Initial thoughts When the Alpine Eagle was unveiled almost exactly a year ago, making its debut as a 41 mm three-hander with date, I was impressed by the fit and finish, and also the price; the value proposition was good. But the three-hand Alpine Eagle isn’t particularly compelling in the hand. To be fair, the base-model Alpine Eagle manages to avoid the usual pitfall for a luxury-sports watch – looking derivative and too similar to the most famous watches in the category – but it is a little plain. The new Alpine Eagle XL Chrono, on the other hand, is compelling in style, size, and substance. Visually the chronograph works better than the three-hand model, because the sub-dials are well proportioned and i...

VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari Time+Tide
Bulgari Most Oct 11, 2020

VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari

Most of us probably haven’t tried to draw anything since high school, and those high school drawings are unlikely to be works of art. Even to the encouraging eyes of our parents. But don’t worry, because it’s never too late to learn a new skill, especially when you’ve got the best teachers, and you’re learning … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A sketching class with one of the world’s greatest living watch designers, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani of Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD? Time+Tide
Oct 9, 2020

2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD?

I can’t remember the last time we conducted a Fantasy Watch Collection poll at Time+Tide. But I’ve noticed something in 2020 amongst the team. With the majority of us locked down in Melbourne, Zoom meetings frequently degenerate into wistful commentaries on what we’re going to buy next. What’s where on the wish list. Fantasies aplenty. … ContinuedThe post 2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 1 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $5000 USD? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition offers dressy darkness in ceramic and titanium Time+Tide
Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition Oct 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition offers dressy darkness in ceramic and titanium

Seiko’s 2020 arsenal of new watches has yet another devastatingly attractive addition in the Seiko Astron SSH073J. In parallel with the mechanical in-house divers and sports watches we can’t seem to get enough of, we find the ultra-precise Astron series, here shown in the dressy darkness of titanium and ceramic. I apologise in advance for … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Astron SSH073J Limited Edition offers dressy darkness in ceramic and titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Oysterflex Bible – every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated Time+Tide
Rolex Oysterflex reference named Oct 3, 2020

The Oysterflex Bible – every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated

We all know only too well how a Rolex Oyster or Jubilee bracelet embraces the wrist unlike any other assembly of steel parts available. It’s a watch bracelet with the feel of silk. Lesser common an experience is the sampling of an Oysterflex bracelet, Rolex’s version of a rubber strap. At the time it was … ContinuedThe post The Oysterflex Bible – every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever Time+Tide
Oct 1, 2020

WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever

Last year, a national get-together for watch lovers was launched by a well known Sydney-based collector, Paxton Wong. He called it ‘WatchFest’. And, despite every possible obstacle, the show will go on again in COVID-stricken 2020. Because, well, community. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it? There’s no doubt that both the international and Australian … ContinuedThe post WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Announces Special Services for All Pasha Owners SJX Watches
Cartier Announces Special Services Sep 30, 2020

Cartier Announces Special Services for All Pasha Owners

Having just unveiled the new-and-improved Pasha de Cartier in April, the Parisian jeweller has just announced an unusually generous suite of complimentary services for the owners of any Pasha watch – “regardless of the model and year of purchase” – anywhere in the world. An example of a Pasha from 1985, which would also be eligible for this offer Conceived to be part of the promotional activities for the new line, this impressive initiative covers two key amenities: servicing and personalisation. Any Pasha wristwatch can be taken to a Cartier boutique for a diagnosis and complimentary servicing. After servicing, the watch will also benefit from the standard post-servicing guarantee. Engraved initials on the recently-launched Pasha de Cartier At the same time, a Pasha wristwatch can be personalised with an engraving of the owner’s initials, either on the case back or on the side of the case under the chain that links the crown cap to the case. Cartier has not revealed how long these services will remain complimentary, but presumably not forever, so it would be prudent to make use of the offer sooner rather than later. For more, visit Cartier.com.  

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGW264 Sep 28, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial

I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even - don’t tell anyone - with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGW264, a classic dress watch in 18k gold with a hypnotic tapisserie dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list Time+Tide
Longines Tuxedo Sep 24, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list

It’s a dark, rainy afternoon in Melbourne with temperatures plunged back below 10 degrees. But it’s always sunny when you can write the Wind Down from the office with colleagues around - 1.5m away, of course, but at least around! Today is my first day back in the office for what I would guess to be … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A Seiko you can buy for a good cause, a Longines Tuxedo, and our GPHG winners wish list appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Sep 23, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world

There are lots of in-depth, scholarly dissertations of why Patek Philippe is, and always will be, immensely coveted by collectors. But, in the spirit of Mark Twain, who said along the lines of, “I apologise for the long letter, I didn’t have time to write you a short one,” we found an impressively short post on … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: 5 reasons why Patek Philippe is the most coveted watch brand in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux ? Sep 21, 2020

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton

A restrained yet modern take on Chopard’s ultra-thin gentleman’s watch, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is the result of a collaboration between the watchmaker and the Neapolitan suit maker. Perhaps because casual or sports attire is the de facto dress everywhere, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is thin and refined, but also clad in a striking red and black. Initial thoughts Watchmaker-tailor collaborations generally haven’t worked well. Anyone remember the Zegna watches made by Girard-Perregaux? The Chopard-Kiton tie-up, however, succeeds by subtly incorporating Kiton elements into the L.U.C XP – short for extra plat, or “extra flat”. It’s essentially an all-black watch with accents of red and red gold, a high-contrast combination that works well when done tastefully, as this is. And the fact that it’s an L.U.C also helps, because L.U.C movements are uniformly excellent in their respective price segments. The L.U.C XP is an extremely high quality watch for about US$10,000, which is strong value. Restrained style Headquartered in Naples and family owned like Chopard, Kiton is a vertically-integrated maker of high-end menswear, including suits made of ultra-fine wool that cost more than this watch. An elegant watch with accents of colour, the new L.U.C XP is dressed in the colours of the Kiton logo – red and black – with the tailor’s button emblem discreetly placed above six o’clock. It features a subtle houndstooth pattern printed on the dial, which is ma...

When Accuracy Mattered – Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking SJX Watches
Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch Sep 20, 2020

When Accuracy Mattered – Part III: The Triumph of Brands Over Watchmaking

The demise of chronometry competitions last year – when the final edition of Concours International de Chronométrie took place – finally killed the dangerous heresy that a watch is a practical instrument that should be trusted to show the correct time. With the elimination of the last scientific and independent assessment of a watch’s worth, the cult of haute horlogerie comes into its own, reinforcing its definition of a watch as an emotional product born of passion, tradition and prestige. Trials to see who can produce the most precise, accurate and reliable watch originated in Geneva in 1879, when the head of its observatory, Professor Emile Plantamour, devised a testing routine that rated watches in the various positions and temperatures encountered in everyday wear. Observatories soon became the influencers of the pocket-watch age, determining the legitimacy and worth of luxury timepieces. American magnates like James Ward Packard, Henry Graves Jr and Pierpont Morgan secured the most highly rated pieces. A Longines split-seconds chronograph pocket watch that was tested at the Neuchatel Observatory in 1968; this particular example once belong to Jean Pitallier, the former president of the French Cycling Federation (FFC) Despite the advent of wristwatches, the Neuchatel Observatory kept the competitions alive until 1968 when Japanese entrants swept the board. In 1972, deputation of Swiss watch brand executive petitioned the Neuchâtel government minister Ren...

Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video) Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat Sep 17, 2020

Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video)

Petermann Bédat is a young company comprising a youthful duo of independent watchmakers by the names of Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat. Their first watch features a deadbeat style of seconds created with the help of grand master Dominique Renaud. Our friends at The Watches TV hosted Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat in their Geneva studio to find out more. Watch their talk here!

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook now comes Sep 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future

Every now and then you’ll come across something that makes you think, “Why doesn’t everyone do this?” This was what came to mind when I was considering the Rado Captain Cook with interchangeable straps, which offers a pretty practical solution to the limited versatility of a watch that only comes with one bracelet or strap. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Transparently Sublime Bovet Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bovet Sep 12, 2020

Transparently Sublime Bovet Ottantasei By Pininfarina: Near Perfection – Reprise

Ian Skellern tried, but didn't quite manage, to come up with a more diplomatic way of saying this, so he just came out with it: up to this point, he had not generally been a fan of Bovet 1822. So he was surprised by just how much he was impressed with the Ottantasei by Pininfarina and would be very happy to wear one daily. But there is one niggle that he just can't shake off . . .

How Languedoc Winemaker Gérard Bertrand Became The World Leader In Biodynamic Viticulture Quill & Pad
Sep 8, 2020

How Languedoc Winemaker Gérard Bertrand Became The World Leader In Biodynamic Viticulture

“You don’t need a glass of wine to stay alive,” winemaker Gérard Bertrand states. “When you drink a glass of wine, it’s for pleasure, emotion, or sharing. We don’t have to make any more compromises with nature, the soil, or subsoil. My philosophy is to respect the ecosystem, biodiversity, and to leave a better planet for the next generations.” The so-called prince of Languedoc has been instrumental in elevating the image of this winemaking region. Find out how and why here.

VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Sep 7, 2020

VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal

Well, the enthusiastic comments on the video, the site post and the socials have confirmed it – this new Raymond Weil Freelancer in a pitch perfect olive green, with that eye-catching exposed balance well and truly have your attention. Which is why we thought we’d upgrade the Hands-On review and bring it to you in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Ulysse Nardin Sep 5, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon

Ulysse Nardin (UN) excels at excellent in-house movements, even for its most affordable, time-only watches. Its watches cases, on the other hand, are typically straightforward – they do the job, but are far from fancy. Just launched at Geneva Watch Days, the Blast Tourbillon is a step in the fancier-case direction. Fronted by a strikingly facetted – and contrast finished – upper plate, the case of the Blast is novel without being too much (though it is a bit much combined with the “X” skeleton movement). And the Blast also sits surprisingly well on the wrist despite its large size. But true to UN’s technically-oriented watchmaking, the Blast is not merely new livery for an old movement. Instead the UN-172 movement within is a new calibre featuring an extensively skeletonised construction – that retains the “X” motif the brand is overly fond of – as well as the signature full-kit silicon oscillator. Initial thoughts The Blast combines an interesting case with an elaborate movement – automatic, skeletonised, and a tourbillon featuring a silicon escapement and hairspring – for not very much money as such things go. With the base model retailing for US$44,000 for the base model, the Blast is priced well. The case is the highlight – finished well and wearable despite its size. The Blast is a big watch at 45 mm in diameter, though it feels notably slimmer than its 13 mm height, partly due to the case height-to-diameter ratio. The fit is good for a wat...

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Dolce & Sep 4, 2020

Hermès Introduces the Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes

Hermès introduced its first tourbillon, the Arceau Lift, in 2013, an early indication of the leather goods maker’s ambitions in technically-oriented watchmaking. The intertwined, double “H” tourbillon cage was modelled the wrought-iron door of the elevator in the Hermes’ fabled store in Paris at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, hence the name. Seven years later, the Arceau Lift has been upgraded to incorporate a minute repeater. The Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes is being produced in just two examples – each unique – in pink and white gold respectively. Initial thoughts While combining two “high” complications is impressive, the whimsical house style of Hermes is what stands out at first glance. Elements like the asymmetric watch case and open dial are simple quite quickly identifiable as Hermes. More subtle is the dial, which is surprisingly discreet until you spot it. It’s cleverly designed to incorporate the brand’s familiar horse-head motif that takes the form of a cut-out that serves to show off the racks and snail cams of the minute repeating mechanism. The H1924 movement within is high quality in both finish and construction, and also incorporates the equestrian theme with a barrel bridge shaped like twin horse heads. But it is produced by Manufacture Haute Complications (MHC), a respected but struggling Geneva-based movement specialist that has supplied the same calibre to H. Moser & Cie., Dolce & Gabbana, and Artya. So while ...

INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux s Laureato Infinity Editions Sep 3, 2020

INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm

Girard-Perregaux was established in 1856 in the watchmaking town of La Chaux-de-Fonds, thanks to the marriage of Constant Girard and Marie Perregaux. The workshops origins were actually as early as 1791, but were not acquired by Girard-Perregaux completely until 1906. Though its history and heritage is in line with brands such as Patek Philippe (1839), … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark horses of 2020 are Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Infinity Editions in 38mm and 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist Time+Tide
Aug 29, 2020

Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist

Wow, so that was an experience I didn’t expect to have in 2020. A few days in Geneva, yes. But in August, with the sun out and zero time spent in Palexpo halls? Nonetheless, wherever there are new watch releases, Time+Tide is always on the ground. In no particular order, here are what I thought were … ContinuedThe post Live video of 5 of the best watches from Geneva Watch Days, on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.