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Fratello Talks: Watch Brands With Untapped Potential Fratello
Feb 6, 2025

Fratello Talks: Watch Brands With Untapped Potential

Welcome back to Fratello Talks. It’s time for some tough love! Today, Nacho, Lex, and Daan are talking about a handful of watch brands with untapped potential. These are big names in the watch world that they deeply respect and admire but feel are not currently delivering to the full extent of their capability. This can […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Brands With Untapped Potential to read the full article.

A Look at the new IWC Pilot Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Team Two Broke Watch Snobs
IWC Pilot Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Jan 9, 2025

A Look at the new IWC Pilot Mark XX Mercedes-AMG Petronas Team

Let’s face it: when you think of Formula One, your first thought probably isn’t, “Gee, I hope IWC drops a new Mark XX today.” But here we are, and IWC is back in the F1 game for 2025 with yet another AMG Petronas tie-in. This time, we’re looking at a no-nonsense titanium Mark XX, a clean time-and-date piece decked out in enough Petronas green to make your Speedmaster a little jealous.

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Watches Panerai might be Jan 8, 2025

The Least Expensive Panerai Watches

Panerai might be the most in-your-face example of the quintessential Tool Watch That Made Good as a Luxury Item. Unlike many other contenders for that title, a Panerai watch today looks essentially the same as it did back in the 1940s, when Italian navy frogmen wore them into underwater combat. Few concessions have been made to modern tastes and trends: the luminous material on the dials is no longer radioactive (inarguably a positive change), Rolex no longer makes the cases, and you no longer have to be a naval commando to own one, but otherwise the relatively few models that make up the Panerai family have stubbornly adhered to their military-issue origins. It is this adherence that makes Panerai, for many, an all-or-nothing proposition — either you’re in the brand’s worldwide, rabid coterie of fans and collectors, proudly self-dubbed the Paneristi, or you roll your eyes at the notion of ever owning one: they’re too big, too flashy, too clunky, too Stallone.  This article, the latest in our series of Price of Admission guides, is aimed at those aspiring to join the former group — in other words, those wishing to pull the trigger on their first Panerai but possibly intimidated by the breadth of choices — and, of course, by the ticket price for entry to that first tier of Paneristi-land. Without further ado, let’s find the most affordable Panerai watches in each of the current product families. RADIOMIR The Radiomir, first conceived in 1935 but tracing its m...

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 SJX Watches
Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 Dec 12, 2024

Hands On: Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

The Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800 is Panerai’s fourth LAB-ID “concept” watch, but probably the most interesting watch in its current catalogue from a technical standpoint. It’s a big, complex watch – inside the 49 mm ceramised titanium case is a movement with six mainsprings. More accurately, it has a conventional movement with twin barrels, plus an illumination module with four of its own mainsprings that generate enough to light up the dial, hands, and bezel for a lengthy 30 minutes. Initial thoughts For the most part I prefer traditionally-styled Panerai watches, either the vintage remakes or the 1990s-type 44 mm models (though I admit the brand’s recent calendar complications are done well). The Submersible Elux hardly resembles a vintage Panerai, but is one of the rare modern creations that is appealing, both in terms of concept and execution, but not so much price-wise. The Submersible Elux is both ridiculous and cool. It’s enormous at 49 mm and also costs just under US$100,000. But it’s arguably the greatest evolution of the historical Panerai speciality of glow-in-the-dark dive watches. And the price is explained in part by the small scale of production in Switzerland. Granted, at this price the PAM01800 isn’t a practical diving instrument, but the technology inside is interesting and notably sophisticated compared to past attempts at light-up watches, all of which suffered from impractically short illumination or power reserve. In time, the te...

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Rolex Submariner Sep 30, 2024

Hands-On with the Retro Zodiac Ref. Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691 Diver

I’d be hard-pressed to name a watch more iterated upon in the last few years than Zodiac’s Sea Wolf. The retro-inspired diver has been at the heart of a true brand renaissance and was at the forefront of the vintage revival movement that has so characterized the watch world over the last decade. Today, Zodiac is looking back to one of its earliest dive watches with the new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Ref. 691. There is, as with most things watch-related and pre-internet, some debate as to the initial launch date of the Zodiac Sea Wolf, but regardless of the date, there’s no doubt that Zodiac released the Sea Wolf as part of the first wave of dive watches back in the 1950s, but while watches like the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Rolex Submariner, and Omega Seamaster 300 soared (or dove), the Sea Wolf fell into the background - obscured to all but the most devoted watch enthusiasts alongside other early generation dive watches like the Eterna Kon-Tiki and Enicar Sherpa-Dive. By the time I got into watches in the early 2010s, the Zodiac Sea Wolf was one of the great secrets of the enthusiast world. Great examples could be had for a few hundred bucks, so for not much money, you could have a great-looking vintage dive watch with some real history. That all started to change when Zodiac, under the larger umbrella of Fossil Group, revived the Sea Wolf in 2015. The Zodiac Sea Wolf was immediately brought to the center of the horological world and has continued to stay relevant in t...

Shaping the Future of Watch Events: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024 Worn & Wound
Sep 16, 2024

Shaping the Future of Watch Events: Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024

When we created the Windup Watch Fair nearly ten years ago, we did it for a simple purpose: to make the watch fair that we actually wanted to go to. We wanted a fair with the brands we were into and a comfortable environment-a fair that spoke to our values as a company and as watch enthusiasts. Inclusive, inviting, laid back, free, and, most importantly, fun. Naturally, we underestimated how big of a lift it would be to pull off, but we persisted, succeeded, and never looked back. The Windup Watch Fair, now held annually in San Francisco, Chicago, and New York City, has become the pre-eminent watch fair for enthusiasts. It is a fair where brands large and small, indie and group, accessible and luxury, come together to speak directly with you, the watch enthusiasts. New brands break ground, new products launch, and new friends are made. There’s genuinely nothing else like it. The original 2015 Windup Watch Fair Today, we’re excited to announce this year’s Windup Watch Fair New York City, which will set a new standard like our first fair ten years ago. With over 120 brands in attendance and 16 countries represented, Windup NYC, our flagship event, is now a watch fair on an international scale. From October 18th to the 20th, the center of the watch world will be in New York City, and you and all of your friends are invited to come. We look forward to seeing you there. This year, the event will be taking place at: Center415 on 5th Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets (...

Top Watches for Students and Grads Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2024

Top Watches for Students and Grads

With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. With summer giving its last hurrah as the northern hemisphere slips towards autumn, it’s the time of year when many are headed back to school. Farewell to summer internships and vacation, and hello to new classes, friends, and experiences. But while back-to-school shopping, don’t forget about your watch game - after all, it’s frowned upon to use your phone to check the time during that lecture that feels as though it’ll never end. In today’s Chronicle, we’re looking at ten watches for every stage of your academic career, from high school to that first big job post-undergrad or trade school. With that, please open your books. The post Top Watches for Students and Grads appeared first on Worn & Wound.

A Hands-On Introduction To Two New Bicolor Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models Jun 4, 2024

A Hands-On Introduction To Two New Bicolor Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models

Today, Omega is expanding its Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch collection with two new bicolor/two-tone models. It’s an exciting day for those who may have wanted the latest movement and updates but found the all-steel models too boring and all-gold versions too expensive. In other words, these two new Moonwatch variants could be the perfect middle ground. […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To Two New Bicolor Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Models to read the full article.

Introducing - The Staggering Beauty of the Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection 2024 Monochrome
Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection May 22, 2024

Introducing - The Staggering Beauty of the Bulgari Aeterna High-Jewellery Watch Collection 2024

Bulgari celebrates Rome, la città eterna, with a spellbinding collection of high jewellery watches congregated in the 2024 “Aeterna” collection. This year also marks Bulgari’s grand 140th anniversary. To celebrate, creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa brings out the big guns with some of the most extraordinary timepieces dripping with the brand’s signature coloured gemstones and his […]

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith 1865 Zenith's founder Georges May 14, 2024

Counting Down the 15 Oldest Watch Brands in the World

Watchmaking is a trade that goes back to the 16th Century, and building mystique and legitimacy on a long, historical legacy is a common theme we find in many companies that make watches today - particularly those whose roots reach back for a century or more. But which companies have really been making watches the longest? In a way, it’s a sticky question, one that can lead one into a minefield of semantics and trivia. Jaquet Droz, for example, claims a founding date of 1738 but the modern version of the company was established in 2000 when Swatch Group acquired the name. A. Lange & Söhne carries on the tradition of the original company founded in Saxony in 1845 but has really been in operation only since 1990 (and to be fair, the company is very transparent about this). The Swiss-based Graham brand traces its legacy all the way back to the London atelier of British watchmaker George Graham in 1695 but has no connection to it other than design inspiration. In assembling the following list of the oldest watch brands still making watches today, I went with the companies that, in my judgment, can legitimately claim a direct lineage to the original founding, even allowing for ownership changes and periods of dormancy along the way. Without further ado, here is a countdown of the 15 oldest watch brands in the world today; you may be surprised by who is included as well as by who is excluded. 15. Zenith (1865) Zenith's founder Georges Favre-Jacot was only 22 when he founded...

Czapek’s Antarctique Makes its Gold Debut Worn & Wound
Czapek s Antarctique Makes Mar 28, 2024

Czapek’s Antarctique Makes its Gold Debut

The Czapek Antarctique has been, without question, one of the big indie hits of the last five years, and a clear result of that success has been the continued expansion of the Antarctique lineup. A quick glance at the current Czapek catalog will show plenty of options, with the Antarctique line now consisting of not just the core 40.5mm steel model, but also smaller versions, a release in titanium, and even a slightly larger rattrapante chronograph. One conspicuous absence though, at least until now, was gold. With the release of the Czapek Antarctique Mount Erebus, that has now changed, and in a big way. Named after a volcano on Antarctica’s Ross Island that quite literally spews gold when it erupts, the Mount Erebus (whose gold was not actually mined in Antarctica - that would be illegal) editions offer everything we’ve come to expect from Czapek’s signature sports watch, now in a choice of either 5N rose gold or 2N yellow gold.   Excepting the visit to King Midas, no big changes or dramatic updates have been made from the standard steel release of the Antarctique, and that’s a very good thing. The Mount Erebus uses the same in-house micro-rotor SXH5 movement, sports the same dimensions (40.5mm across and 10.6mm thick), and even uses the vertically brushed lamé dial first developed for the initial release of the Antarctique Terre Adélie in 2020. The Mount Erebus also retains 150m of water resistance and the proprietary ‘Easy Release’ system, allowing ow...

Evergoods Launches the CPL16, a Smaller Version of their Popular Backpack Worn & Wound
Ming Mar 19, 2024

Evergoods Launches the CPL16, a Smaller Version of their Popular Backpack

Evergoods, the brainchild of Jack Barley and Kevin Dee, has released a new backpack, proving once again that big things come in small packages. Founded in 2016, Evergoods set out with one mission: “Create long-lasting, high-quality crossover equipment. Combining their experience from working at some of the biggest names in the outdoor industry (Goruck and Patagonia), Barley and Dee built Evergoods from the ground up, literally. After designing custom furniture for their facility in Bozeman, MT, the team rapidly moved to create their two flagship products, the Civic Panel Loader 24 (CPL) and the Mountain Panel Loader 30 (MPL). From these two products, they would expand their staff and product lines, becoming a leader in the soft-goods industry.  Their newest release, the CPL16, builds upon the iconic legacy of its big sibling, the CPL24. Made from a solution-dyed custom-made 840d ballistic nylon, YKK reverse coil zippers, a highly breathable back panel, and a water-repellent coating, this pack was made to conquer your day with ease. The sleek exterior of the pack features a standard top handle, as well as a side handle allowing you to carry it like a briefcase. Moving inside, you’ll find a largely open main compartment with an internal stretch pocket perfect for carrying folders or books, and a fully padded laptop compartment capable of fitting up to a 16” MacBook Pro. Evergoods describes this pack the best, saying “It’s the do-it-all workhorse of an EDC bag you ...

Fears Reintroduces the Redcliff Collection, Including a Limited Production Onyx Dial Made with Collective Horology Worn & Wound
Fears Reintroduces Feb 23, 2024

Fears Reintroduces the Redcliff Collection, Including a Limited Production Onyx Dial Made with Collective Horology

Fears has reintroduced the Redcliff collection today, which made its first appearance in the catalog when the brand was re-established in 2016 by Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great grandson of Edwin Fears, the company’s founder. The Redcliff 39.5 Date seen here is an interesting new step for Fears. The brand has seen tremendous growth over these past few years, and they’ve done it almost entirely on the back of the cushion cased watches that make up the Brunswick collection. A straightforward, circular case with a mechanical movement has been notably absent from the collection, and it stands to reason that a more traditional, and perhaps approachable, case platform like the Redcliff could broaden the brand’s appeal considerably. Of course, there are still plenty of small touches that make this iteration of the Redcliff identifiable as a Fears, and there’s a limited edition variant made in collaboration with Collective Horology that seems to be in direct conversation with one of last year’s key Fears releases.  We’ll start with the case, as at least at first glance, that would seem to be the most significant departure from what most would consider the established Fears design language. In stainless steel, it measures 39.5mm in diameter and has been designed to be slim at just 9.95mm tall. It has a mix of finishes, including a prominently brushed midcase and a polished, sloping bezel. The crown is oversized and screws down, which helps to give the R...

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Arnold & Son Globetrotter Jan 2, 2024

Here Are the 28 Best GMT Watches You Can Buy in 2026

Among all the functions offered by today's timepieces (we in the watch trade call them complications, because even the ones that look relatively simple, like a date in a window, involve a lot of complex micro-mechanics), the GMT or second time zone is one of the most practical and useful - especially as many of us are back in the habit, post-COVID, of spending time again in time zones other than our own - for business, pleasure, or some combo of both. Here we've gathered 28 of the best GMT watches on the market now for your perusal and your consideration if you're in the market for a ticking companion for your next trip. To narrow the list and keep it manageable, we are keeping it as much as possible to "pure" GMT watches, i.e., those with a GMT hand pointing at a scale rather than some other unconventional display, which unfortunately excludes models like the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone, Parmigiani Tonda Hemispheres, Arnold & Son Globetrotter, and any number of very creative high-end takes on a dual-timer. We've also left out world-time watches, GMT watches' more complex cousins that display all the world's time zones simultaneously (you can check out our list of world timers here) and multiple-complication watches in which the GMT function is paired with a chronograph, perpetual calendar, or other high complications (small complications like dates are OK). Finally, we included only watches with mechanical movements, which are more likely to appeal to a wo...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Dec 24, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 70 - Seiko 5’s new GMT and More!

It’s here, the last episode of the year. A Week in Watches episode 70 – wow. Though the year is coming to a close, there still is some news – big news actually – to discuss, so it’s a pretty full episode. We kick it off with some upgrades from Grand Seiko to one of their core designs. From there, we head to the UK to check out a couple of late-in-the-year releases from Farer. Then, it’s over to Switzerland to discuss Breitling’s acquisition of Universal Genève. Finally, we’re back to Japan for some new, and very cool, GMTs from Seiko 5. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. Head over to Windupwatchshop.com and be sure to check out the recently launched Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster Valjoux 72 and Datomaster VK63 Version 2s, as well straps, EDC, clocks, and more watches. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 70 – Seiko 5’s new GMT and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Performance Chronographs in their Pilot Collection Worn & Wound
IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Nov 13, 2023

IWC Introduces New Racing Inspired Performance Chronographs in their Pilot Collection

When we think of IWC chronographs, their series of Pilot’s Watch Chronographs are probably what comes immediately to our minds. There is an absolutely dizzying selection of chronographs across the Pilot collection, and the references go back years. Today, IWC unveils what they are referring to as “Performance Chronographs” that are technically (and somewhat weirdly, I have to say) still part of the Pilot lineup, but have a more motorsport forward focus. The new chronos seen here follow watches released in the past as part of their partnership with the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team, but have some aesthetic and design tweaks that make them feel a bit more road ready. While the AMG Petronas Pilot’s Watch Chronograph was basically a new colorway in a titanium case, the Performance Chronographs see additional updates to the dial that distinguish it from other watches in IWC’s Pilot space, which begs the question: why call these “Pilot” watches at all?  What we have here are two new references, the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 AMG, and the Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS Formula One Team. Both are built on IWC’s popular 41mm Pilot’s Watch Chronograph case, with the former in titanium, and the latter the brand’s proprietary Ceratanium alloy. On the surface, the broad strokes here are familiar, but when you get into the granular details, some new features emerge. Most notably, these dials have a glossy fi...

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO SJX Watches
Rolex buying Bucherer Sep 14, 2023

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO

Very few will have missed the news of Rolex buying Bucherer, and all of the reactions to it. Given the big change this poses to the world of watch retail, when we were recently given the chance to speak with Wilhelm Schmid, chief executive of A. Lange & Söhne, we thought it the perfect opportunity to get his insight on the current retail landscape.  We sat down with the seasoned leader – now the longest-serving brand boss in Richemont – at this year’s Concours of Elegance, the classic car show at Hampton Court Palace, surrounded by the sounds of vintage V8s revving in the distance. Now that the world has exited the pandemic for good, the way we shop seems to be going back to normal and the shifts that brands made during those turbulent years are either being undone or slowly wound down in the hope that customers are willing to go back to the old ways of doing things and getting out to physical stores. Mr Schmid is certainly of the mindset that a face-to-face connection is the only way to sell one of their watches, as we discovered in our discussion below.  Not only did we talk about how the German brand plans to change their retail strategy moving forward, we also queried him on the Bucherer takeover and how Lange is adapting the to rising tide of brands developing certified pre-owned (CPO) offerings.  The following interview has been edited for clarity and length.  Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 RPS: Perhaps...

The Latest from Grail Watch is a Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down with Art by the Watchmaker’s Young Son Worn & Wound
F.P. Journe he was handpicked Aug 21, 2023

The Latest from Grail Watch is a Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down with Art by the Watchmaker’s Young Son

Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down, first seen in 2010, is one of independent watchmaking’s most inventive and whimsical creations. Ballouard started his own brand after stints working with big names like Franck Muller and F.P. Journe (he was handpicked by Journe to work on his most complex movement, the Sonnerie Souveraine), and his signature complication is quite unlike anything else. The Upside Down’s conceit is that it displays each hour upside down except the current hour, which is flipped right side up when the minute hand crosses 12:00. It’s an incredibly complicated design, the purpose of which, according to Ballouard, is to “treasure the time we are in.” It’s also just a very cool party trick, and the platform for the latest release from Grail Watch, Wei Koh’s ongoing series of dream collaborations.  The new Upside Down seen here isn’t a brand to brand collaboration like previous Grail Watch releases, but a heartfelt partnership between Ballouard and his young son, Gabriel, or “Gaga” for short. Wei Koh asked Ballouard if Gabriel could be involved in the creation of this watch after hearing Ballouard’s incredible story of becoming a parent. He lost his first wife, Eveline, to cancer, some years ago, but not before she told him of her hopes that he’d remarry and have a family. This seemed impossible to Ballouard at first, but he eventually met Flavia during his daily walk in Parc Bertrand in Geneva. She changed his life, and they soon become ...

The MB&F; HM8 Gets Sleek Mark 2 Update Worn & Wound
MB&F; Jun 13, 2023

The MB&F; HM8 Gets Sleek Mark 2 Update

MB&F; have never been shy about embracing their sources of inspiration to create structures and shapes unlike anything else out there. One particular source of inspiration has been a mainstay within the Horological Machine collection, and that is from the automotive space. We first saw it in the HM5 back in 2012, and then the original HM8 in 2016, and today that concept takes a step further with the HM8 Mark 2, which is an evolution of the original HM8, shrouded with a new aerodynamic case and crystal that appears to be taken straight off the back of a Porsche 918.  The HM8 Mark 2 isn’t the first time we’ve seen an existing Horological Machine take on a significantly new form. The HM3 saw a variety of configurations in its lifespan, from the original released in 2010, to the Frog and Magawind variations that pushed the boundaries of the platform (and of sapphire). The HM8 in original form, called the Can-Am for its race inspired structure, featured a relatively flat case that placed a vertical display at one end, with the time being reflected in a similar manner to what we saw in the HM5. That design was a bit steampunk-ish and even geometrical in nature. The new Mark 2 variant takes things in a more organic direction. Right at the onset you’ll notice a more cohesive case shape with voluminous curvature blending the CarbonMacrolon shroud and the ‘double bubble’ sapphire that looks to have been shaped in a wind tunnel. A center section of titanium separates the tw...

The Formex Reef Gets Bronze Makeover for Collective Horology Worn & Wound
Formex Reef Gets Bronze Makeover Apr 26, 2023

The Formex Reef Gets Bronze Makeover for Collective Horology

Collective Horology have recently announced a retail partnership with Formex, and this week we get a first look at a new Reef that will be available exclusively in the Collective shop, and at our Windup Watch Fair. The Reef as we know it today ushered in a new chapter for the brand back in 2020 (you can see our thoughts on that watch right here), and this latest edition expands that story a bit further with a unique new dial that suits the watch rather well, if you ask me. Rather than creating a brass case, as we’ve seen on a broad range of modern divers, Formex and Collective Horology have opted for a brass dial.  The case and bezel design of the Reef are quite distinctive, I’d say they have a ‘big personality’ but without the accompanying heft. This is a watch that makes a big first impression, but manages to be surprisingly wearable in use. The steel case measures 42mm in diameter, but the 47mm lug to lug distance, and sub 12mm thickness make the Reef rather pleasant on the wrist. As we say, it’s not about the numbers if the watch manages to bring the design together in an ergonomic manner, and the Reef has most certainly done that.  The big personality of the case means you can go big on the dial as well, and that’s exactly what this collaboration has done. It’s not a salmon dial, it’s a brass dial. The bright, warm color and aggressive texture all bring a vibe that works incredibly well with the Reef as a whole. In fact, I’d go so far as to call th...

A Week In Watches Ep. 46: All The Collaborations, Plus One Anniversary Worn & Wound
Norqain Apr 23, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 46: All The Collaborations, Plus One Anniversary

Welcome to A Week In Watches, episode 45! This week, we were inundated with collaboration watches, and they are as diverse as they are interesting. From a $110 Timex, to a $26,000 Czapek, there’s a little something for everyone here. The most humble release of the week comes from Timex and our friends at Huckberry, who brought back a classic form the ’90s, the Ironman Flix watch. It’s a jolt of energy next to today’s modern ultra smart devices, and it’s a perfect workout companion even without all the bells & whistles of something like an Apple Watch. Another big theme this week (and recent years, come to think of it) is big colors and dial textures. We’ve got blue wave dials, lava red dials, and rose engine turned dials all making their way into a trio of releases from Czapek, Straum, and Atelier Wen, and their respective collab partners. Finally, we say congratulations to our friends at Norqain for hitting their 5 year anniversary, who celebrated with a selection of 5 new watches. We take a closer look at their version of an openworked dial, and wish them continued success in their journey. Here’s hoping we get more lume dials sometime soon. Next weekend, we’ll be coming at you from the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair, and if you’re in the Bay Area, we hope to see you there. For more details on this year’s event, head over to windupwatchfair.com and get a look at the schedule for each of the days, as well as the extensive list of brands you can look f...

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2023

CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon

Since CODE41 released their X41 AeroCarbon back in 2020, I have viewed the independent brand as a champion for watch collectors. Since their foundation in 2016, they have pushed the boundaries of affordability by offering highly technical watches for a fraction of the big-name prices. With an emphasis on clear, honest communication about component cost … ContinuedThe post CODE41 take the next step with the T360 Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 29, 2023

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 54

In 2012, Tudor broke the ground by introducing the Black Bay, a steel dive watch whose attractive design and price point have always offered a value proposition for enthusiasts. Through the years, the format has been updated from its larger 41 mm case down to 39 mm, as seen in the Black Bay 58. Today, the brand has dropped the Black Bay 54 with a new, smaller 37 mm case. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Black Bay makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts  The 37 mm size of the new Black Bay 54 really sets it apart – perfect for those who prefer a classic look and slimmer watches. Its sophisticated simplicity makes it appropriate for both genders without sacrificing the utilitarian styling that has made the lineup popular through the years. As is typical for Tudor, the value proposition is outstanding. At CHF3,450 in steel on a rubber strap (and slightly more with its matching bracelet), it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. The combination of vintage-inspired design, excellent build quality, and affordable price point makes the new Black Bay 54 a winner. Vintage-inspired but in a more compact case While the original Black Bay was 41 mm, the 54 is considerably smaller but wears well on the wrist. It takes inspiration from an earlier diver from Tudor’s history, the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922 that was issued primarily to the French and American navies but was later used by civilian tech...

Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph Worn & Wound
Longines Expands Spirit Collection Mar 22, 2023

Longines Expands Spirit Collection With New Flyback Chronograph

The Longines Spirit collection welcomes a new member today with the release of a new Flyback Chronograph, bringing a (perhaps surprising) element of Longines heritage into the mix along the way. Longines may not be the first name that comes to mind when hearing the word ‘flyback’ but it probably should be, and this latest Spirit watch will serve as a reminder to the brand’s extensive history with the complication, which dates back to the 1920’s. Visually, the new Spirit Flyback Chronograph presents a cleaner execution than the existing chronograph, placing emphasis on the uniqueness of this complication, however the visual identity of the Spirit collection is clear and present here.  Let’s take a quick step back, and get a better understanding of Longines’ place in history when it comes to the flyback complication. Longines had a lovely chronograph movement called the 13.33Z first introduced in 1913, which, later in life, likely served as a testbed for the flyback mechanism that would flourish in the more well-known 13Z. As far as we know, Longines placed the first flyback mechanism within the 13.33Z in 1929, and it wouldn’t be until June 12th of 1935 that the brand filed for Swiss patent on the mechanism, which would go on to be granted in March of 1936 (Brevet 183262). There’s much more to read on the topic, which has been covered beautifully by SJX and collector Dr. Christian Müller right here. Not that Longines needed an excuse to release their own fl...

5 of the best limited-edition character Casio G-Shock watches Time+Tide
Casio G-Shock watches Casio as Mar 5, 2023

5 of the best limited-edition character Casio G-Shock watches

Casio as a first watch is something that a lot of us can relate to. No matter how many fine mechanical timepieces are in the collection, there’s just an effervescent joy in these plastic wonders that transport me back to a simpler time, when my biggest dilemma was which Saturday morning cartoon to watch. I’ve … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best limited-edition character Casio G-Shock watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.