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Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Daytonas Oct 10, 2019

Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph

If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex chronograph, I could perhaps buy one of the five unique “Zenith” Daytonas in platinum, a Datocompax “Jean-Claude Killy” (as Davide Munari did), a “Paul Newman” Daytona (not), or a ref. 4113 split-seconds. Of the many ways to spend that much money on a Rolex chronograph – and not any other complication – the ref. 4113 is the most unusual, interesting and horologically complex. At the same time, the ref. 4113 was also a dead-end for Rolex, because it never furthered development of the split-second chronograph and instead relied on standard chronographs for all its auto-racing activities. Produced in 1942 in a run of just 12 watches – with case numbers “051’313” to “051’324” -the ref. 4113 is the only split-seconds, or rattrapante, chronograph ever made by Rolex. Phillips will soon sell ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” – the watch pictured here – at its upcoming November watch auction. Ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” The Valjoux 55 inside The racing connection Though formal documentation as to its origins no longer exist or are unknown, the story behind the ref. 4113 is by now familiar thanks to research over the years as examples emerged at auction. In 1991, a pair of these emerged at Christie’s, at its Geneva and London salerooms respectively. The first, with case number was “051’313”, was sold in May 1991 at Christie’s in Geneva for 82,500 Swiss fr...

Business News: Rolex to Replace New York Headquarters with 25-Storey Building SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet museum according Oct 9, 2019

Business News: Rolex to Replace New York Headquarters with 25-Storey Building

A year after the opening of the Rolex Building in Dallas, designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, London-based David Chipperfield Architects just announced it won an international design contest for the new Rolex skyscraper in New York City, beating out big names like Foster+Partners and Bjarke Ingels Group (which designed the new Audemars Piguet museum), according to industry publication Architects’ Journal. “Our team is committed to creating an exemplary building befitting the heritage and culture of the Rolex brand, as well as its prominent 5th Avenue location,” says Mr Chipperfield, speaking in the press announcement. Modernist and fronted entirely in glass, much like the rest of its work, the Chipperfield design will replace the watchmaker’s existing building located at 665 5th Avenue, on the corner with 53rd Street. Originally built for Danish silversmith Georg Jensen in 1924, the 12-storey building was revamped with a glass and aluminium facade when Rolex acquired it in 1977 for its American headquarters. The current Rolex Building, home to the company since the 1970s. Image – Google Maps A rendering of the new Rolex Building. Image – David Chipperfield Architects According to industry lore, the then chief executive of Rolex, Andre Heiniger, decided to buy the 5th Avenue building during a visit to the United States, closing the deal before getting the approval of the company’s board. Heiniger also led Rolex to acquire several dozen lo...

INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules  Time+Tide
Bremont H-4 Hercules  Oct 9, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules 

The history of aviation is full of famous planes. For better or worse, planes like the Spirit of St. Louis, the Enola Gay and the Southern Cross are landmark machines in the evolution of the flying machine. But few vehicles loom larger in popular culture (or indeed reality) than the epic H-4 Hercules, popularly known … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours Time+Tide
Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Oct 8, 2019

VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours

On the face of it, Blancpain’s elegant Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours - or, if you don’t parlez vous, Complete Calendar 8 Days - is exactly the sort of thing you’d expect from the dressier family of one of Switzerland’s old marques. But once you get past the numerous traditional points - the day/month apertures, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The wearer-friendly Blancpain Villeret Quantième Complet 8 Jours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolesor in the deep – the Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603 Time+Tide
Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603 Oct 8, 2019

Rolesor in the deep – the Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603

To say there was quite a bit of controversy when Rolex unveiled the two-tone Sea-Dweller ref. 126603 at this year’s Baselworld is, at the very least, an understatement. In fact, there was nothing short of a litany of disparaging comments, which varied greatly in context, and ranged from questioning the two-tone Sea Dweller’s validity as … ContinuedThe post Rolesor in the deep – the Rolex Sea-Dweller Reference 126603 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune SJX Watches
Hermes Chronode conceived Oct 8, 2019

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

Hermès, as a brand, usually has an elegant, light and sometimes whimsical house style that makes it unique amongst luxury houses. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune unveiled at SIHH at the start of the year exemplifies the house style, although the case is thicker than ideal. Functionally, the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a straightforward watch – it shows the time, date and phases of the Moon in both the Southern and Northern hemispheres. But the execution of the time and date is striking and clever. Orbital moon phases The two are essentially orbital displays, as each is on a sub-dial mounted on a rotating, central carousel. The carousel take 59 days to make one complete revolution around the dial. But each sub-dial also rotates on itself as the carousel turns. As a result, each sub-dial is always the right way up regardless of its position. Both sub-dials also double up as the moon phase indicator, with position of each sub-dial indicating the age of the Moon in each hemisphere. And in a bit of whimsy, the hemispheres have been inverted, with the Southern on top and Northern below. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune with a meteorite dial The inventive display was built by Chronode, the complications specialist founded by Jean-Francois Mojon, which has a diverse body of work that includes Urban Jurgensen’s P4 movement, the MB&F; LM2, and the constant force tourbillon of IWC. The display module by Chronode. Photo – Hermes Chronode conceived and builds the ...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar SJX Watches
Bulgari all companies Oct 7, 2019

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster El Primero Radar

Having been one of the first brands to work with watch customiser Bamford Watch Department, Zenith has one gone one further with the Chronomaster El Primero Radar. Featuring a striking aesthetic reminiscent of the 1970s, it was designed by Bamford for Zenith, and will only be available at the watchmaker’s boutiques. In short, it is an official boutique edition designed by a former aftermarket customiser. Bamford Watch Department was founded by George Bamford, an entrepreneur who made a name for himself selling customised watches and clothing, but who also happens to be the son of a construction equipment tycoon. His watch division made its name customising Rolex watches, but has now become the official customiser for Zenith, TAG Heuer, and Bulgari, all companies of luxury conglomerate LVMH. According to Zenith, the red and brown livery of Chronomaster El Primero Radar was inspired by a 1916 pocket watch Mr Bamford spotted during a visit to Zenith’s factory in Le Locle. Mr Bamford used that to create the “retro-futuristic aesthetic” of the El Primero Radar. The dial is a graduated brown, while the sub-dial at three has five hashmarks that are the “negative of the [Zenith logo of a] star”, according to Mr Bamford. Dial aside the watch is identical to the standard Chronomaster El Primero, with a 42mm steel case that contains the El Primero 400 B movement.   Key facts and price Chronomaster El Primero Radar (ref. 03.2082.400/02.R830) Diameter: 42mm Heigh...

Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor Time+Tide
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor Oct 6, 2019

Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor

Editor’s note: It’s easy for the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor to get lost in the perpetual noise caused by some of its more popular siblings within Rolex’s Professional range. But to simply overlook this wristwatch would be a categorical mistake, because the Yacht-Master 40 has a great many positives when compared not just to … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition Time+Tide
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Oct 6, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms looks like a lot of other watches out there, and there’s a reason for that. The Fifty Fathoms was first. It was one of the first watches ever designed for diving and, as a result, has become almost the Universal Man of dive watches, where all watches that follow are derivative. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance: Synchronized Oscillations Driving Sonorous Vibrations (Plus Video – It Sounds Fantastic!) Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance Synchronized Oct 6, 2019

Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance: Synchronized Oscillations Driving Sonorous Vibrations (Plus Video – It Sounds Fantastic!)

The Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance marks the first time in history that the resonance phenomenon has been combined with a chiming watch (a full minute repeater!). Thanks to the clever development of the resonance mechanism several years ago, the doors to this incredibly complex and technical creation opened for the Swiss brand. And the result is like angels singing!

Patek Philippe Reference 5160: An Overlooked Mechanical Delicacy – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 5160 Oct 5, 2019

Patek Philippe Reference 5160: An Overlooked Mechanical Delicacy – Reprise

When most people think of Patek Philippe, they think of the evergreen models that roll off the lips of enthusiasts all over the world: Nautilus, Gondolo, Calatrava, and perhaps even that delectable worldtimer that appeared in 2013’s new Patek Philippe offerings as Reference 5130. But one of the many elements that I personally adore about Patek Philippe is its love of the handcrafted arts and the perpetuation of them in highly aesthetic ways.

Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Oct 4, 2019

Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow

Editor’s note: OK, yes, it seems as though every time you scroll through Instagram these days, it’s highly probable that your feed will be inundated with myriad “rainbow” bejewelled-bezel timepieces.            And whether you’re for or against them, there’s no denying it – these bedazzled technicolour flex watches are firmly solidified in the zeitgeist of current … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT  Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT  Oct 4, 2019

IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 

The story in a second: One of the best watch designs of recent times gets complicated.  I know I’m not alone in thinking that the Octo Finissimo family is one of the most important commercial watch designs of the last decade or so. Sure, it’s based on an old Genta design, but the Octo has … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs SJX Watches
Breitling Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – Oct 4, 2019

Seiko Introduces the Prospex SRQ029 & Presage SRQ031 Chronographs

Nineteen-sixty nine was a watershed year in watchmaking – the culmination of the race for the world’s first automatic chronograph. It was a three-way contest between two Swiss watchmakers and one from Japan. Both Swiss movements – the Zenith El Primero and the Heuer-Breitling-Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – have enjoyed a following to this day, but the third – the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer – remains relatively obscure as it went out of production in 1979. The 6139 was a single-register chronograph with a 30-minute totaliser at six o’clock and a quickset day-date display. Crucially, it had a column wheel and vertical clutch. And an even lesser known fact is that Seiko produced its first chronograph – the “Crown” with a column-wheel and mono-pusher – just five years before, in 1964 to coincide with that year’s Tokyo Olympic Games. In short, the 1960s were a major decade for Seiko in terms of chronographs. The Seiko “Crown” chronograph of 1964 with its characteristic black plastic bezel Hence, to mark the 50th anniversary of its first automatic chronograph, as well as the 55th anniversary of its first chronograph, Seiko has unveiled a pair of limited editions, both chronographs, naturally. The two editions are each limited to 1000 pieces and powered by the same calibre, the in-house cal. 8R48 that was introduced in 2014. The first and the more modern looking of the two, is the Prospex 50th Anniversary Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ029. I...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 4, 2019

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite

When Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Gyrotourbillon in 2004, it was an incredibly exciting watch, and arguably marked the high water mark of Jaeger-LeCoultre as a maker of contemporary complications. Fifteen years on, the Gyrotourbillon has cycled through many iterations, most more complex or sophisticated than the original but none quite as revelatory. Variants include the compact and slightly more affordable Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon and the more recent Gyrotourbillon Westminster Perpetuel. The latest to join the line-up is the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite, which is a third generation model dressed up with fired enamel, meteorite and aventurine. The chronograph sub-dial and digital counter are at nine o’clock, with the day-night display at three One of the most complicated versions of the Gyrotourbillon, the Gyrotourbillon 3 combines the double-axis tourbillon with a single-button chronograph with digital, instantaneous 60-minute counter as well as a day and night display. The tourbillon features two spherical , aluminium cages containing a cylindrical hairspring in the centre. The cages rotate in opposing directions and at a different rates, working to eliminate the gravitational errors caused by the changing position of the wearer’s wrist. And more importantly, it’s a compelling visual spectacle on the idea. Space rock and artisanal craft The sub-dial for the time at 12 o’clock features a meteorite centre ringed by an ...

Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One Oct 3, 2019

Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”

Tudor is taking part in Only Watch for the third time, but the watchmaker has arguably created its most unique timepiece to date for the biennial charity auction. While Tudor’s earlier Only Watch were variants of existing models, first the Heritage Black Bay One and then the Black Bay Bronze One, the Black Bay Ceramic One is wholly different from all current (and past) watches, it is a piece unique. Announced just a few weeks before the similarly all-black Black Bay Chrono Dark limited edition, the Black Bay Ceramic One is essentially Tudor’s signature dive watch, but with a black ceramic case. Though Tudor does have ceramic watches in the line-up, namely the usually forgotten Fastrider Black Shield, the material has not been used for the bestselling Black Bay, until now. Though the watch is entirely unique, the look is a fairly common one – all-black, everywhere. That being said, it’s an attractive one, especially for a dive watch like this. The dial is done in different textures and shades of black for legibility. So the markings on the dial are printed in glossy black lacquer to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. And the Super-Luminova is also black, or more specifically standard Super-Luminova with pigments added for colour, which diminishes the green night-time glow substantially. While that’s not a practical look for an actual dive watch, it is a cool look for a “desk diver”. The bezel continues the shades-of-black colour schem...

Experiencing Panerai’s Marina Militare – we wish we were there Time+Tide
Panerai s Marina Militare – Oct 3, 2019

Experiencing Panerai’s Marina Militare – we wish we were there

One of the most interesting watch ‘releases’ this year was Panerai’s series of experiential watches. Basically, the brand released a series of watches with a particular focus - diving, exploration, the armed forces - each with an associated ambassador or partner. One release was the regular version of the watch, and the second was a … ContinuedThe post Experiencing Panerai’s Marina Militare – we wish we were there appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077 Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SJE075 Oct 3, 2019

VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077

Over the last few years, Seiko’s Presage collection has earned something of a reputation for excellence in enamel, with a quick succession of hot watches with fired dials. And while in the past these pieces have leant towards complexity, SJE075 and SJE077 simplify things a little, and serve as contrasting tributes to the original Seiko … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Oct 3, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet have once again stunned everyone with their latest full-ceramic piece of timekeeping wonderment – the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked. Showcasing the Swiss marque’s ceramic prowess, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar’s 41mm black ceramic case and conforming bracelet are finished to exquisite detail, and feature both brushed and polished elements. And … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.