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Monochrome
In the past, our friends at Hodinkee have collaborated with TAG Heuer to create exciting timepieces like the Carrera Skipper and Carrera Dato. This year, they present a fresh take on the iconic Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer, which Heuer produced for the American retailer from the 1950s until the mid-1970s. We gladly present the new […]
SJX Watches
IWC recently facelifted the entire Portugieser line, and along with it the flagship Portugieser Automatic 42 “7 Days”, now in its fourth generation. Though the tweaks are cosmetic but significant, with an attention to detail that results in clear aesthetic enhancements. Compared to the earlier generation ref. 5007, the new Portugieser has a sharper, more refined appearance, while also feeling slightly more compact. Initial thoughts Though the overall design is mostly unchanged over the earlier generation, Portugieser 7-Days immediately looks and feels different in the hand. It looks a little bit shinier, slightly more polished, as if more effort was put into making it look like an expensive watch. The appearance is subtly different yet instantly obvious, and is the cumulative result of small improvements to the case, dial, and crystal. The improvements are particularly evident compared to the first generation Portugieser ref. 5000 launched in 2000, which feels almost like a vintage watch from another era. The improvements are incremental and hardly imaginative, but they are well done. Granted not everyone might like the polished new look. The lacquered dial, for instance, has an obvious glossy finish. But most of the improvements are more subtle, particularly on the case that now has a slimmer profile and improved finishing. Importantly, the revamped Portugieser is priced almost exactly the same as its predecessor ref. 5007 (the increase is a few hundred dollars). It i...
SJX Watches
To celebrating its 65th, Squale turns once again to the Italian navy for a dive watch collaboration: the 1521 Marina Militare. A tribute to the vintage 1521 model supplied to the divers of the Italian navy – officially known as the Marina Militare – in the 1980s, this limited edition bears the navy logo on the dial and the naval coat of arms on the case back. The rest of the watch is classic 1521 with its angular “Von Büren” case reminiscent of 1970s dive watches – that’s because Squale was historically also a supplier of cases to other brands that included Blancpain and Doxa. Initial thoughts Although vintage re-issues are common with micro-brands, few have true historical basis. Squale, however, does as it was both a supplier of dive watch cases to notable brands as well as suppliers of watches to the Italian navy. Even though the design of the isn’t novel or creative – it is a vintage reissue after all – the historical navy connection sets this apart from its peers. The dial, bezel, and strap feature orange accents Priced at US$1,430, 1521 Marina Militare is affordable and priced comparably to past Squale models. Like many watches in this price range it’s powered by an inexpensive Sellita SW 200-1. It’s priced similarly to most of the micro brand competition, but the Marine Militare connection makes this little a more interesting. Retro and orange The 1521 Marina Militare reproduces the vintage “Von Büren” case that is best known for having...
Time+Tide
In a watch marketplace with a greater appreciation for interesting case shapes, the Longines Mainliner could be a great revival for the brand.The post Longines Mainliner: Why my first-ever mechanical watch is ripe for a revival appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take the day off to celebrate the 58th National Day for Singapore. We wish all Singaporeans and friends National Day greetings. Majulah Singapura!
Teddy Baldassarre
Sometimes, our editorial meetings produce the sort of nerdy, off-topic conversations that make us pause and say, "Wait, this should be an article." Okay, more than sometimes. As our team grows, it's become clearer that we should be sharing our takes (hot, cold, or lukewarm) here on the site for your reading pleasure – or just to stir the pot a bit. Today's topic of choice is the idea of expressing what we each would consider to be a one-watch collection. It's important to note that these picks are purely subjective and derive from the minds of our editorial staff. Our hope is that this thought exercise gets you thinking about what a one-watch collection might look like for you. So with that in mind, enjoy this story and let us know what you think of our choices in the comments! Danny Milton, VP of Content Not to spoil anything, but the team really went for it with the picks in our first real editor’s roundup here at Teddy. It’s hard to argue with any of the choices because – well – they represent the tastes and opinions of each individual writer. My approach to something like a one-watch collection is complex, perhaps unnecessarily so. My instinct tells me to go Rolex, but then I start to think about scenarios in my life in which I think “maybe I am not comfortable with a Rolex here.” It does happen. So then my mind delves into the more attainable price segment where I want to identify something bulletproof, something that packs undeniable value. If you’re ...
Worn & Wound
Among the many Hodinkee collaborative limited editions released over the years, the TAG Heuer releases have consistently been acclaimed. The “Skipper” Carrera has become something of a legendary watch in the niche world of limited edition collaborations, and the Carrera “Dato” released a few years ago was similarly praised and struck a very different register aesthetically. Hodinkee and TAG clearly have a close relationship, and the latest result of that partnership has just been revealed. Available today, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee limited edition feels like a natural evolution of the of watches that came before it. The point of reference here is the Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer, a watch produced by Heuer for Abercrombie in the days before they became an apparel staple at your local mall, and were known primarily as an enthusiast’s sporting goods retailer. The Seafarer, like the Skipper and Dato, has become an extremely collectible vintage reference for Heuer aficionados. They were produced in relatively small numbers from the 1950s through the early 1970s, and for a long time these watches were a kind of inside-baseball grail for collectors. These days more people are aware of them, and the Seafarer’s aesthetic has directly and indirectly influenced new watches from brands both large and small. This is the first time, however, that TAG has returned to the classic Seafarer with real intention, so it’s a big moment for old-school ...
Hodinkee
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer × Hodinkee is a robust interpretation of our favorite Seafarer reference: maintaining the color codes and bezel aesthetic from 1968, this collaboration thoroughly embraces the modern spirit of TAG Heuer.
Fratello
The Alpina 10 Seastrong was on my shopping list for a long time. These watches are not easy to come by. They are not exactly rare, but they do not pop up for sale too often. What we can call rare is the specific model we’ll be checking out today, which features a set of […] Visit #TBT The Mystery Of The Alpina 10 Seastrong With Red Hands to read the full article.
Deployant
Montblanc released a new timepiece that celebrates the 100th anniversary of the Meisterstück with a tribute to Enheduanna, the world’s earliest known author and boy the Montblanc Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Enheduanna is certainly a feat!
Worn & Wound
Some people, if you were to ask them, would say that the most exhilarating moment in sports is the bottom of the ninth with two outs and the winning run at the plate. Others would say it’s penalty kicks at the World Cup, the final two minutes of a basketball game, or a last-minute Hail Mary. Ask me the same question, and you’ll get a different answer. For my money, the most exciting moment in sports comes at the end of a tennis match. Unlike soccer, football, or basketball, tennis isn’t a sport where you can run out the clock. To win, you have to earn the last point and, until that happens, a comeback is never out of the question. Despite matches sometimes lasting for hours, time isn’t explicitly a factor in tennis, but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t matter, and there is no stronger evidence for that than the strong connection between some of the world’s leading watch brands and the sport of tennis. This past weekend, I got to experience that connection firsthand with a visit to the Mubadala Citi DC Open, where Rado was serving as the tournament’s official timekeeper. With Rado’s clocks tracking the passing time both on and off the court, there was no better host to welcome us to Rock Creek Park, or with whom to celebrate one of my favorite sports in one of my favorite cities. Though Rado’s relationship with tennis extends back much further (well over thirty years), this is only their second year partnering with the Mubadala Citi DC Open. But just because...
Fratello
All eyes are on Paris this summer as the city hosts the Summer Olympics. But today, it’s not the XXXIII Olympiad that has caught our attention. Instead, it was the watch on the wrist of someone in the crowd minding their own business and enjoying the games. That someone happens to be Daniel Craig, former […] Visit Daniel Craig Spotted With A New Omega Seamaster Professional 300M At The Paris 2024 Olympic Games to read the full article.
Fratello
Howdy, folks! On today’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex ask themselves: how much Genta is too much Genta? It’s hard to think of a name more revered in the field of watch design. The man’s designs have been around since the 1950s and include countless staples. Only recently have some of them […] Visit Fratello Talks: How Much Genta Is Too Much Genta? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Viral Olympic sport shooter Yusuf Dikeç has become beloved for his nonchalant aura at the Olympic Games - but what watch is he wearing?The post Yusuf Dikeç – what watch is the viral Turkish Olympic sport shooter wearing? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Did the best just get even better? From the moment the No Date version of the Tonda PF was released, I was sure this was the glorious pinnacle of the Tonda PF line-up. It is the perfect purist take on the Tonda PF that loses the date window and introduces a stunning Golden Siena dial. […] Visit Hands-On: The Brilliant Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date Golden Siena to read the full article.
Deployant
We took a close look at the newly released Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver's Special Edition SPB455, and bring you this comprehensive review.
Monochrome
There’s already plenty said about the Black Bay collection and its effect on Tudor as a brand. Yes, it’s a gargantuan success and yes it’s home to countless iterations by now, and more will likely come further down the line. From its humble beginnings in 2012 with the release of the Black Bay Burgundy 79220R […]
Fratello
On Monday night, Swedish pole vaulter Armand “Mondo” Duplantis set a new world record and won an Olympic gold medal. Both of these achievements could be considered the pinnacle of any athlete’s career, yet with Duplantis, it feels like the opening chapters of what will undoubtedly be a long and illustrious biography. Watch fans worldwide […] Visit Omega Unveils A New Titanium Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ultra Light On The Wrist Of Olympic Gold Medallist Mondo Duplantis to read the full article.
Fratello
Seiko caught us by surprise when it reintroduced the King Seiko name back in January of 2022. The journey began with five dial variants in a 37mm case. I loved these so much that I immediately ordered one for myself. Now, two-and-a-half years on, Seiko proves that the collection is here to stay. The range […] Visit Introducing: The New King Seiko KSK 6R 3 Days 36mm In Three Preppy Colors to read the full article.
WatchAdvice
We’ve gone hands on with the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10, and after a week with this piece on the wrist, here’s what we think! What We Love: Its undeniable wrist presence! Unique in-house movement with 10-day power reserve The Meccano-inspired design elements What We Don’t: Is large and won’t suit all wrists Clasp can irritate the wrist a little if the strap is too loose Not as versatile as other Hublot offerings Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 This is the first time that I have personally had the opportunity to review a piece from Hublot. Yes, I’ve worn them before and had many times to play around with them, but never in a capacity where I’m actively putting pen to paper (So to speak) and sitting down and writing my thoughts on them. It’s a different exercise doing this compared to just wearing the watches and appreciating them for what they are and enjoying them. I mean, how many times do you sit down and write 2000 words on your daily wearer? It makes you think differently about it, especially as you try and put yourself in someone else’s shoes who may be considering a new purchase. No pressure at all! The Hublot Big Bang Meca-10. Big, blue and beautiful! Having had a fair bit of exposure to Hublot over the last few years, I’ve come into this review with a little more knowledge than had I done this prior, and as I’ve discovered time and time again, the more knowledge you have around...
Monochrome
Seiko’s announcement in 2020 heralding the return of the long-slumbering King Seiko created a stir. As our readers will remember, Grand Seiko and King Seiko sub-brands were the result of an interesting experiment to promote competition between the Dani Seikosha (Grand Seiko) and Suwa Seikosha (King Seiko) watchmaking facilities. Pitched as internal rivals in the […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Japan’s Citizen Watch Company marks 100 years of watchmaking in 2024, and some of its most noteworthy recent timepieces provide ample proof that, despite being in business for a full century, the brand’s drive toward forward-thinking technology and avant-garde design has not yet started to slow down. Take for example the Citizen Tsuki-yomi A-T, unveiled in Fall of 2023 - which is the culmination of 30 years of Citizen’s pioneering work in the field of radio-controlled atomic timekeeping. It is the first light-powered watch with a fully analog moon-phase display, and the first moon-phase that requires no manual adjustments whatsoever from the wearer thanks to its high-tech movement, Eco-Drive Caliber H874, which receives signals from six multi-band radio transmitters. The name “Tsuki-yomi” is derived from a Japanese phrase meaning “reading the moon,” and also refers to a moon god from ancient Japanese mythology, while the “A-T” is an abbreviation for “Atomic Timekeeping.” For the ingenious Eco-Drive movement, which runs to an astounding accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month, Citizen’s designers developed a special mathematical formula that calculates the exact position of the moon on each day of the year by using the radio transmission signals from the world’s atomic clocks. The watch’s dial is also a distinguishing feature: its surface is enhanced with a textural lunar landscape motif of craters, moondust and lakes that is “bold yet subtle en...
Monochrome
Initially introduced in 2022 as part of the 50th-anniversary celebrations of the Royal Oak, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked was first released in steel (reference 16204ST), featuring a steel-grey skeletonized movement and contrasting pink gold hands and indices. Following this, the watch was also made available in pink, yellow and white gold cases. While the […]
Fratello
One of the most anticipated track and field events closed up the first week of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. I’m talking, of course, about the men’s 100-meter finals. Though more than a few exciting gold-medal events occur throughout the two weeks, few get as much attention as this one. Thanks, perhaps, to the once-in-a-generation […] Visit Looking Back At All The Omega Speedmaster Olympic Games Special Editions to read the full article.
Deployant
Audemars Piguer releases 3 new Royal Oak Offshore Models, viz a selfwinding in 37mm, and a selfwing and a gchronograph in 43mm.
Worn & Wound
Earlier this year, when Dutch independent brand Holthinrichs announced their new Signature Collection, we thought it was one of the most impressive new projects in indie watchmaking. It represented a bold shift for the brand, moving from complex, bespoke watchmaking to something more easily repeatable and at a more approachable price point. With advances in manufacturing capabilities, the new and less expensive Signature Collection actually represents a vision of watchmaking far closer to what brand founder Michiel Holthinrichs had always intended. It was, and remains, an exciting story for fans of the brand, but after seeing Holthinrichs steadily create watches that are more and more ambitious in recent years, we’ve kept hope alive that the brand hadn’t completely abandoned their goals of creating something truly high end and in-house. Now, on the heels of the Signature Collection comes word of a new project within Holthinrichs that would appear to fill the void of truly high end watchmaking that was left when the brand transitioned to their new model. Holthinrichs Haute Horlogerie provides an outlet for the brand’s most ambitious ideas, and the first watch under this new banner, the Ornament Nouveau, is unlike anything they’ve attempted previously. Like every watch Holthinrichs has made, the defining characteristic of the new piece is its sculptural design. But with the Ornament Nouveau, those ideas have been manifested not just in the case and dial design, b...
Monochrome
As a platform dedicated to fine watchmaking and a deeply rooted passion for independent watchmaking, the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (or AHCI) is very close to our hearts. This institution, preserving the traditions of watchmaking by forming a community of watchmakers, was founded by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese. It has brought forth many illustrious […]
Fratello
The Fifty Fathoms family from Blancpain has already crossed the line from tool watch into wrist grails for most of us. This was already a fact with rising prices years ago and symbolizes for many the change in how we perceive wristwear. By nature they are all instruments to tell the time, and any reference […] Visit Introducing: Two New Versions Of The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe In Grail-worthy Gold to read the full article.
Monochrome
MeisterSinger has made the single-hand time display its signature design feature, which some might view as limiting creativity. However, this German company has consistently proven otherwise. Since 2001, MeisterSinger has introduced various exciting series that incorporate calendar functions, chiming mechanisms, jumping hour displays, and power reserves, all while preserving the brand’s original spirit. Furthermore, MeisterSinger […]
Fratello
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we ask: What the hell is so special about Rolex, anyhow? Sure, the brand has been discussed heavily, but having had recent Submariner experiences, both hosts hash out what makes these watches so fantastic. For our faithful listeners, the watch content begins at approximately […] Visit Fratello On Air: What’s So Special About Rolex Anyhow? to read the full article.
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