Two Broke Watch Snobs
Oris Honors Lou Gehrig With a Pointer Date Limited to 2,130 Pieces
A closer look at the Oris Lou Gehrig Limited Edition Pointer Date: 2,130 pieces, subtle Yankee details, and whether the $2,850 price holds up.
Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Worn & Wound
Win an $800 Prize Pack From Iron and Resin
Iron & Resin makes garments built for the long haul, inspired by the workwear that helped shape America and the gear made to enjoy the ride. Based in Ventura, California, Iron & Resin is for people who expect more from their clothing and value the stories that come with a life well lived. And if you enter this month’s giveaway you could make a strong bond with a whole lot of their goods this summer.
Monochrome
First Look – Rado Drops a Trio of Summer-Toned DiaStar Original Skeleton
Rado continues to ride the renewed popularity of its DiaStar Original collection and its skeleton version, and launches three colourful limited editions that add a fresh seasonal character to one of the brand’s most recognisable designs. Following the skeletonised DiaStar models introduced in recent years, including the original steel version and the striking gold-coloured edition […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex Yacht-Master II
Rolex commands a lot of attention during Watches & Wonders, and this year much of the focus was on the enamel-dialled Daytona — a high-tech, high-priced, off-catalogue variant of one of the hottest watches in the industry. But the brand’s other chronograph, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II, also got a much-needed — but still unexpected — makeover, transforming it from an ugly duckling into a compelling chronograph for the contrarian collector. Initial thoughts Despite the pre-event teaser posted to social media, the launch of an updated Yacht-Master II still managed to feel like a surprise. The original Yacht-Master II debuted in the pre-financial crisis exuberance of 2007 and exemplified the tastes of the era, being something of the Royal Oak Offshore of the Rolex line-up. It was big and brash but offered enough technical substance to stay intellectually relevant, even as the model lost enthusiasm in collector circles before its discontinuation in 2024. The updated Yacht-Master II improves on the original in every way, dialing back the ostentation and doubling down on the technical merit. The new Yacht-Master II is available in stainless steel or full 18k yellow gold, and offers a decent value proposition in either configuration given the technical sophistication of the calibre and the high quality of make. As the standard-bearer of the luxury watch industry, Rolex could charge more than it does and the brand’s restraint is notable. The full-gold ref. 1266...
Fratello
Oris Honors Lou Gehrig With A Limited-Edition Big Crown Pointer Date
Even if you’re Dutch and not a baseball fan, the name Lou Gehrig rings a bell. In my case, I knew he was a player for the New York Yankees, but that was it. If you’re American, you probably know him as “The Iron Horse.” Few athletes have left a mark on American sport quite […] Visit Oris Honors Lou Gehrig With A Limited-Edition Big Crown Pointer Date to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Frederique Constant Classics Moneta Solarmetre
Frederique Constant releases a solar powered collection based on the FC-120 for the Classics Moneta collection, and is a line within called the Solarmetre.
Fratello
Gallet Returns And Immediately Wants To Leave Again
Two centuries after its founding in 1826, Gallet returns — finally. And I don’t mean “finally after a hundred years,” but “finally after all the teasing.” The marque that’s now part of House of Brands, which also includes Breitling and Universal Genève, is back, but don’t run to the Breitling dealer right away to see […] Visit Gallet Returns And Immediately Wants To Leave Again to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Catching Up, Accutrons, And Family Additions
Welcome to a long-awaited episode of Fratello On Air! Well, at least we’re excited to be back. It’s been a while, meaning we’ll cover some recent news from the watch industry, sneaker landscape, television, and even our personal lives. We look forward to catching up with you! This podcast player is blocked because you did […] Visit Fratello On Air: Catching Up, Accutrons, And Family Additions to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Parmigiani’s Carillon Tourbillon Caps Three Decades
Parmigiani Fleurier introduces the Carillon Tourbillon to mark three decades of the brand, and to celebrate how it all began — by restoring antiques. Inspired by an early 19th-century watch founder Michel Parmigiani brought back to life decades ago, the watch repeats the minutes on four serpentine gongs with exposed repeater work, and a tourbillon, and somehow manages to fit 12 days of power reserve into a case that’s just 41.6 mm in diameter and 12.6 mm thick. Initial thoughts My first thought on seeing the movement was that it looked like something from the early 19th century, with exposed repeater work and serpentine gongs. That was, of course, the intent. In 1980, Michel Parmigiani became a steward of Maurice Yves Sandoz’s collection of antique watches and automata. There he worked on a wandering hours quarter repeater signed Perrin Frères, which inspired the present watch. The Perrin Frères repeater that inspired the Carillon Tourbillon. Image – Parmigiani Fleurier Modern collectors have relatively little interest in this genre, and a nearly identical watch — this time signed Vaucher Frères, the firm after which the modern Vaucher company is named — sold for only CHF21,000 at Christie’s two years ago. But the watch’s esoteric design and unique story made it ripe for revival. But of course it’s not an exact replica. This modern homage is a keyless winding lever watch, while the inspiration was key wind with a cylinder escapement. As a pleasant surp...
Worn & Wound
As Long as There is Light: A First-Hand Deep Dive on Citizen’s Eco-Drive Technology
In the horological sphere, we associate the 1970s with the quartz crisis, but there was a more significant threat facing the world at large: an energy crisis. Oil consumption was reaching an all-time high with widespread international travel and car ownership becoming more prevalent and mainstream. Simultaneously, domestic oil production was dwindling in many countries, increasing pressure on imports. The situation reached a crisis when OPEC (the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries) imposed an oil embargo in 1973. So, getting back to watches – you’re probably wondering, what’s the connection? Like the United States, Japan was one of the countries impacted by this energy crisis. In response, Citizen Watch Company established an internal initiative to work toward developing a more sustainable and eco-friendly power source for its timepieces. In short order, the brand looked toward solar cell technology and had developed its own light-powered prototype by 1974. Two years later in 1976, we saw the world’s first light-powered analog watch, the Crystron Solar Cell. This technology would later come to be called Eco-Drive and celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2026. You’ve probably already read about the flagship anniversary Eco-Drive model covered by our own Zach Kazan at its launch earlier this year, but this spring, in peak cherry blossom season, Citizen opened the doors of its manufacture for the first time in years to pull back the curtain on just how the ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Audemars Piguet Announces New Royal Oak Offshore Chronographs In Both 42mm and 37mm
What We Know Big, bold, and unapologetically brash, the Royal Oak Offshore has never been the watch for everyone. But with three fresh colorways for 42mm chronographs in steel and titanium, and a triumvirate of brand-new 37mm models in titanium and pink gold, the vaunted watchmaker from Le Brassus is giving us a few more reasons to consider its dedicated diver. There are three new 42mm models in three new color combinations, all featuring luminescent white 'bathtub' style hands, Arabic numeral hour markers in 18 carat gold, a flyback chronograph with hour, minute, and second counters, and a tachymeter scale rehaut inner bezel and date window at 3 o'clock. First up, the only new titanium model at this size, it features a dark grey méga tapisserie dial with dark grey and silver-toned counters with yellow and turquoise accents. The Arabic numeral hour markers are turquoise while the yellow chronograph hand matches the counter hands at 9 and 12 o'clock with a white seconds hand at 6 o'clock. Sections of the tachymeter scale are printed in yellow and white, while the AP logo in white sits just left of the date window. The silver hour and minute chronograph counters are accented in turquoise and grey. The case is 15.3mm thick and features a sapphire open caseback, a black-rubber and titanium screw-down crown with contrasting yellow and black rubber push pieces, and boasts water resistance of 100 meters. The new titanium Offshore chronograph comes on an interchangeable dark ...
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR-05 S.T. Dupont Edicióne Limitada
Bell & Ross expands their cigar-inspired limited editions, their fourth with S.T. Dupont, the famed French maison for lighters and smoking accessories.
SJX Watches
SJX Podcast: Inside Roventa-Henex
For episode 42 of the SJX Podcast, we visited Roventa-Henex chief executive Jérôme Biard at the company’s secretive manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes. The discussion covers the emergence of the ‘micro-brand’ (including whether that term is still relevant), the factors facing the Swiss watch industry today, the role suppliers play in shaping trends, and what it takes to start a watch company. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
SJX Watches
Moser’s Endeavour is a Complicated Chronograph
H. Moser & Cie. expands its selection of chronographs with the Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date, adding convenient complications to the impressive chronograph calibre found in the Streamliner collection. Despite the presence of a chronograph and a second time zone display, the Endeavour Flyback could easily pass for a time-only watch at a glance thanks to its central minutes counter and discreet dual-time disc. Initial thoughts The central-minutes chronograph is an inherently appealing format. Not only does it reduce dial clutter by eliminating a sub-dial, but it improves legibility by allowing the elapsed minutes to be read on the same 60-minute scale the eye is accustomed to from reading the time. I’m also a fan of the AgenGraphe platform that underpins the HMC 730 movement. The movement architecture — which has now been around for almost a decade — reveals fresh thinking about how a horizontal clutch can work, and the visual layout is appropriately dynamic for a high-end watch with plenty of visible springs and levers, many of which are pleasingly thin in form. All that is to say the Endeavour Flyback has a lot going for it even before considering Moser’s minimalist aesthetic choices. As we’ve come to expect from the brand, the dial is sterile — lacking a brand logo or wordmark — and there’s a gradient fumé finish on the central disc that indicates the second time zone. These details are enough to mark the watch as a Moser product, which sp...
Deployant
Review: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points new for 2026
Released in Watches & Wonders 2026, here is our hands-on review of the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points .
Worn & Wound
Watches, Stories, & Gear: A Chris Nolan Summer, a New Pen from Tactile Turn, and a Look Back at a Classic Seiko Diver
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Toronto Is Getting Serious About Christopher Nolan Summer I don’t know about you, but I was obsessed with Greek mythology as a kid. So much so, that my librarian had to call my mother to stop me from checking out D’Aulaires’ Book of Greek Myths from the library each week, so other kids could have a chance. It seems that, with Christopher Nolan’s much-anticipated The Odyssey on the horizon, the Toronto International Film Festival has caught a similar Hellenic-induced fever. This Summer, Canada’s largest city will host Christopher Nolan: Grand Designs, a retrospective at TIFF Lightbox running from July 8 through August 20. The series brings Nolan’s oeuvre to the big screen in 35mm and 70mm, beginning with a live taping of The Ringer’s The Big Picture podcast and a 70mm screening of Tenet, followed by titles including Memento, The Prestige, Inception, Interstellar, Dunkirk, Oppenheimer (with Barbie playing directly before as a nod to the Barbenheimer phenomenon of 2023), and, of course, the Dark Knight trilogy. Now this is the kind of stuff that should get us talking about The Odyssey, not the (frankly dumb) criticism of Lupita Nyong’o playing Helen of Tro...
Deployant
New: Barrelhand’s Monolith
Barrelhand introduces the Monolith as a tool watch inspired by solving aerospace constraints. The case is 3D‑printed from Scalmalloy, incorporates a hollow aircore structure, and is designed to operate across extreme temperature, pressure, and shock conditions, including vacuum and EVA (Extravehicular Activity) environments.
Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier makes sound visible in its new Carillon Tourbillon
With four hammers and four gongs, this is one of the most complicated repeaters you will find on the market today.
Teddy Baldassarre Videos
Hamilton’s New Khaki Field America Anniversary Edition
America turns 250 years old this year, and to celebrate, Hamilton is releasing a special edition of one of their rarest and most important military watches, the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm “America 250” Anniversary Edition. The watch in question is based on the FAPD 5101 Type 1, produced for a single month, September 1
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A Polerouter Super, A Movado Bill Time, A Vintage Rolex Sub, And A Louis Vuitton Monterey II
Congrats on conquering another week, even if this one felt particularly expensive with the loss of Sonny Rollins. I know jazz is probably supremely uncool, but man oh man, if you've not had any experience listening to old Sonny stuff, pull up his classic The Bridge and dive on in (and, yes, his time out, alone, practicing sax on the Williamsburg Bridge, lent the album its title). But you're not here for that sort of cultural enrichment. Let's get to the real stuff. Scorekeeping earlier picks, the Hamilton RAF from two weeks back sold for €1,600, which is a cheering result. Last week's Omega Marine Chronometer went for CHF 2,000, the Marvin "Ocean Chief" sold for $1,000, and Rare Bird's Jaeger-LeCoultre Étrier sold as well. Strays Photo courtesy GALERIE DES VENTES D'ORLEANS. Photo courtesy Craft + Tailored. Photo courtesy Bonhams. Here's a beautiful Zenith Respirator on its original Zenith-signed NSA bracelet for all you square-cased Ballers to start things off. The Dennison ALD Dual Time seemed to scratch an unsuspected itch for a lot of folks, and certainly there are excellent vintage examples of double-dialed watches, but if you happen to find yourself hooked on the idea that more=better regarding dials, boy oh boy is this 18k gold Chopard with its four separate dials for you (with, yes, four separate manual-wind movements, for the fidgeters among us). Girard Perregaux alarms look fantastic for eschewing the typical fourth hand for setting the alarm, and this example ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Artistic Horology at Phillips Hong Kong
Phillips’ spring auction season heads east for The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XXII on May 30 – 31. In addition to a strong roster of complications from big brands, and interesting indies as usual, there is a strong showing from the more artistic side of watchmaking spanning gemsetting, enamelling, hand engraving, and wood marquetry. Lot 1010 – Jaquet Droz Magic Lotus Automaton Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721 – 1790) was an extraordinarily skilled automata maker from La Chaux-de-Fonds, his most famous work being The Writer, which can write up to 40 pre-programmed characters, dipping his quill into an ink pot at intervals. Today, Swatch Group uses his name for métiers d’art watches and automata; this watch is both. The onyx dial adds lapidary into the mix. It is a two-train watch — turning the crown one direction winds the movement, while the other winds the animation, which is tripped by a button in the crown and runs for an unusually long four minutes on a full wind. The koi swims around the dial, moving its tail back and forth and dives slightly to pass underneath the floating foliage (which is made of gold). A floating lotus flower opposite the koi acts as a visual counterweight. The petals clutch a yellow sapphire — or is it a red ruby, or a blue sapphire? It changes as the flower passes under the leaves or dial. Finally, while the koi is cavorting around the dial, the dragonfly is hard at work keeping track of the movement’s 68-hour power reserve. That movement...
SJX Watches
Kollokium’s Latest is Tropical and Topographical.
Kollokium returns with the Projekt 02 Variant C, hot on the heels of the A and B variants. For this third edition, Kollokium is bringing some colour to the (beach) party, rendering its topographic dial in a striking shade of Mediterranean blue. Initial thoughts Kollokium — an independent micro-brand from Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer and Amr Sindi — continues to find ways to rethink dial and case construction at an affordable price. As its name suggests, the Variant C is the third edition of its second model — Projekt 02 — which introduced the topographical motif last year. True to form, Kollokium is once again letting the dial do all the talking and has left the Variant C unsigned, save for the model abbreviation cast into the case band. Like another independent brand with Manuel Emch at the helm, Kollokium keeps a tight leash on pricing. As a result, the Variant C is priced the same as prior editions, at CHF3,666.66. It’s a limited edition of 299 pieces, which means it will be less common than similarly priced watches like the Tudor Black Bay 54 in ‘Lagoon Blue.’ Of course, cross-shopping a Kollokium against something like the technically advanced Tudor feels a little like missing the forest for the trees. The appeal of the Projekt 02 Variant C lies in its three-dimensional design and unusual textures — on these grounds, there are few alternatives. The Variant C can be pre-ordered starting today for Kollokium subscribers, and will be available to the ...
Deployant
New: Parmigiani 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon
We had a sneak peek at this new Parmigiani 30th Anniversary Carillon Tourbillon after hours at the Parmigiani booth in Watches & Wonders this year.
Time+Tide
Russell Crowe gushes over Parmigiani, Czapek releases new documentary, TAG Heuer announces new INDYCAR brand partner
Things have simmered down a little bit, at least compared to the recent Royal Pop pandemonium. However, there were some deeper-cut headlines over the last week or so, with some strong weekend viewing to dive into. Russell Crowe is smitten with his Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF @igp366 #paris #rolandgarros #parmigianifleurier #farrenprice ♬ Éblouie par … Continued
SJX Watches
Visiting Roventa-Henex
Jérôme Biard is good at keeping secrets. As chief executive of Roventa-Henex (Roventa), he needs to be. The historic manufacture in the sleepy Swiss village of Tavannes builds watches for dozens of watch brands — some are internet-native ‘micro-brands’ while others are historic names with 19th-century roots. Naturally, few of the firm’s customers choose to reveal this arrangement, preferring the unstated implication of in-house expertise. We went inside this secretive manufacture to see a different side of the Swiss watch industry. Roventa-Henex CEO Jérôme Biard in his office in Tavannes. A short history of Roventa-Henex To better understand Roventa, it’s worth examining the history of watchmaking in Tavannes, a small village in the canton of Bern just 16 km from Biel/Bienne. Watchmaking came to Tavannes relatively late — in the 1860s — nearly two centuries after the first Swiss watches were made. Despite its late start, Tavannes quickly became a major centre of industrial watchmaking in the 1890s when Henri Sandoz — with the backing of two prominent families from La Chaux-de-Fonds — opened an industrialised factory based on the American model of production, complete with the latest American machine tools. By 1905, Tavannes Watch Co.’s factory employed more than 600 workers, making it Switzerland’s third-largest watch factory after Longines and Omega. By 1914 its staff had doubled, and the factory was producing more than 3,000 watches per day. Tav...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Albishorn Type X-Graph (Live Pics)
What We Know We've featured a lot of Albishorn on Hodinkee recently, and for good reason. It's a fan-favorite brand, and, as our former head of limited editions said, it's hard to find someone who knows how to handle the technical side of watches, the design side, and pricing, all so well. The new Type X-Graph is no exception. If you want more info on the design inspiration behind the brand, you can read one of my previous stories here. But while other launches trend more vintage, this one feels a bit more modern. The Rolex "Zerograph" inspiration is obvious, with the slightly smaller dial and oversized bezel (that overhangs the case). This time, the dial pushes the look into modernity, with a semi-translucent fumé grey dial that lets you catch small glimpses of the skeletonized ALB04 M movement. But at the same time, Alibshorn was able to maintain the pebbled texture of some of their other dials. It's not a fully smoked sapphire like a Patek 5316 or a Lange Lumen, but at the price, it strikes a balance between creativity and affordability. Add the green-emission Super-LumiNova on the PVD-coated bi-directionally rotating steel bezel, and it's a cool monochrome finish. You'll notice that the watch is a chronograph with a 30-minute counter at the lower left and running seconds at the right, but right above the logo is the chronograph running indicator. It switches from red while running to white when stopped. The design of this is patented as part of the brand's modificatio...
Deployant
New: Moser Endeavour Flyback Chronograph Dual Time Date
Moser releases a new chronograph in their Endeavour lineup using the Agengraphe movement with flyback chronograph, dual time and date.
SJX Watches
Albishorn’s Latest Chronograph is an X-Ray
Specialising in affordable, “imaginary vintage” chronographs, Albishorn has added a twist to its military-inspired Type 10. At a distance, the Type X-Graph resembles yet another pilot’s chronograph with a black, textured dial, but up close it reveals a translucent polycarbonate dial that provides a peek at the skeletonised base plate of the movement. Inspired by 1930s acrylic-covered timepieces, the polycarbonate dial is in a gradient-grey tint, giving it a darker finish towards the edges. While the movement is mechanically identical to its predecessor, the calibre has been skeletonised to maximise the “X-ray” effect. Initial thoughts At first glance, the X-Graph appears little different from its predecessors, but up close it is noticeably more interesting. It’s essentially a twist on a skeleton watch – it’s clearly a no-frills, military-style watch, but with a see-through dial that reveals the open-worked movement. The X-Ray is still “imaginary vintage”, but with more imagination, underlining Albishorn founder Sebastien Chaulmontet’s unique take on watches that combines a historical perspective and unusual twists. This is born from his keen interest in vintage chronographs – he wrote a book on the subject – while also being head of research and development at Sellita (Albishorn is a side project, akin to a hobby). The brand’s catalogue now encompasses many variations of the single-button chronograph, but the X-Graph stands out as one of the m...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Are Citizen Watches Any Good? A Hands-On Look at 6 Real Value Picks
Are Citizen watches any good? See how models like the Promaster Diver, Nighthawk, and NY0040 prove Citizen’s value through durability, comfort, and low upkeep.
Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko SLGB006 Review: U.F.A Precision Meets Solid Yellow Gold
A limited edition of just 80 pieces, the SLGB006 delivers luxury and world-class accuracy in equal measure. More