Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Gérald Genta Mickey Watch
Gérald Genta's affinity for a certain cartoon mouse (and a few of his friends) is preserved in watches bearing the late designer's name.
35,352 articles · 153 videos found · page 997 of 1184
Hodinkee
Gérald Genta's affinity for a certain cartoon mouse (and a few of his friends) is preserved in watches bearing the late designer's name.
Deployant
Hands on review of the Horage Tourbillon 1 - at the last week where it is possible to order one in this subscription series. Now with the in-house movement.
SJX Watches
The most extravagant watch to date in 2021 has arrived courtesy of Hublot – the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow. Combining Hublot’s signature porthole face with the integrated bracelet introduced last year, the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow has almost every surface set with coloured gemstones. And ticking away inside is an in-house movement with a tourbillon and clear sapphire bridges. Initial thoughts Rainbow watches are the “it” watches of our era, with the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” being the most famous of the multi-coloured, gem-set timepieces. But now Hublot has taken it to the outlandish next level. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow is a lot, probably too much, but it’s also a stunning example of gem setting – proof comes in the form of 36 carats of stones – with an unusually interesting movement. The movement will probably be overlooked by whoever buys either of the two unique examples, but it is quite accomplished in a technical sense: an automatic tourbillon wound by a micro-rotor, with everything held in place by clear sapphire bridges. Contrasting starkly with the densely saturated case, the movement is light and airy in its layout, with its wheels appearing to be floating within the case thanks to the transparent bridges. The only glaring shortcoming in its technical features is the Etachron regulator index for the tourbillon. It’s entirely functional, but typically found in less expensive watches. Even though I would not ...
Revolution
Grand Seiko launches the next generation of their Spring Drive movement with the 5 Days Caliber 9RA2 fitted into two limited edition timepieces that are inspired by nature.
SJX Watches
Having introduced a new design language along with the all-new, automatic 9SA5 last year, Grand Seiko is now doing the same for the Spring Drive. The watchmaker has debuted a pair of Heritage Collection Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions, the “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel and the “Tree Rings” SLGA008 in rose gold. Both are powered by the 9RA2 that’s part of the family of latest-generation Spring Drive movements first seen last year in the Grand Seiko Diver 600 m SLGA001. Just 5 mm high, the slimness of the 9RA5 means the pair of new models are the thinnest Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches to date. Initial thoughts The new models are essentially Spring Drive versions of the self-winding Heritage models launched last year (including an ultra-luxe platinum version and the more recent “White Birch”). That’s a good thing for two reasons. One is the intrinsic appeal of the design, which is vintage inspired and appealing, packaged in a case that’s a good size and easily wearable. And the other is the increased consistency in styling between Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and automatic models, doing away with the confusing distinction between movements and designs. The “Minamo” SLGA007 in steel But that’s also the downside for the buyers of the limited-edition models (either these or the automatics), since the design has been replicated as a standard-production watch with the automatic movement, and the same will surely be done for the new 9RA2 Spring Dr...
Quill & Pad
Mumm Champagne has wonderful history, but then for a period it seemed to descend into little more than a discount producer. More recently, there appeared to be a serious intent to return to the glory days when this house was seen as one of the greats. Ken Gargett thinks that Mumm's RSRV R. Lalou 2006 is a revelation. Rich and complex with honeycomb notes and some butterscotch. Great length. Finely balanced.
Five days of cartoonishly good content.
Quill & Pad
With its bronze case, deep red dial, and dark brown strap, the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Red Bronze captures the essence of the aesthetics of the best of 1970s design: dark richness. It’s also why Joshua Munchow loves it and thinks it may be his favorite BR 03-92 to date.
Hodinkee
Watches we love, the second time around.
SJX Watches
Historically the world’s leading producer of mechanical stopwatches – the sort once standard issue at athletic meets – Hanhart has shifted its focus to sports chronographs in recent years. Most of them are based on the brand’s vintage watches from the early- to mid- 20th century, especially the distinctive pilot’s chronographs it supplied to the German air force. While some of its offerings are remakes, the brand’s latest is an overtly modern take on the 1930s pilot’s chronograph. The #FliegerFriday Edition combines a black-coated steel case with a dark blue dial as well as the brand’s trademark red reset pusher. With the origins of the design are vintage, the Flieger Friday Edition has a calculated casual style that stems from its inspiration – the social media hashtag #FliegerFriday, which refers to wearing a pilot’s watch over the weekend. Initial thoughts Hanhart is not short of vintage remakes – usually executed with signature elements like a red pusher or knurled bezel – so the modern style of the Flieger Friday Edition is unusual and welcome. Admittedly the blue-dial sports chronograph formula is well used, but here it’s done with a little more novelty by pairing the dial with a steel case coated in black diamond-like-carbon (DLC). Add to that the splash of red, and the result is a striking watch that does live up to the hashtag’s basis of a fun, weekend watch. The watch is reasonably priced at US$2,700, which is not much more than the...
Revolution
The evolution of the non-round watch over the last 100 years.
Deployant
Hanhart introduces a new chronograph with a rather interesting name...called #FliegerFriday, this chronograph is a limited edition of 100 pieces.
Revolution
With the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Flying T, Special Revolution in hand, Wei gives the rundown of a great revelation that the already impressive COSC & Geneva Seal watch has, an enigmatic stop-seconds function, making it one of only six tourbillons in existence from major watchmakers that feature.
Time+Tide
A few years back I was very disheartened by the news that some British schools were beginning to replace analogue clocks with digital ones. The Times Educational Supplement reported that the reason behind this was that some pupils were now struggling to read traditional clocks and needed a digital clock to be able to tell … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Kids now struggle with analogue watches, could this be the answer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
While the last 18 months have wreaked havoc on the big (and not so big) watch fairs – and everything else – there have been two rays of horological sunshine in the last couple of years: in November 2019 (just months before COVID-19 hit) the biannual Dubai Watch Week took place, which was bigger and better than ever. And then in August 2020 the inaugural Geneva Watch Days was held during a lull in the pandemic and it was superb. Here Ian Skellern explains why these two fairs have become his favorites.
Deployant
Singer Reimagined introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition. A personalizable watch available by commission to only owners of the Singer reworked Porsche 911.
Revolution
The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Okavango Air Rescue Limited Edition celebrates the landmark achievements of Botswana’s aeromedical rescue organization
Revolution
The Resurgence of Silver
SJX Watches
Having finally retired the decades-old version of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch powered by the cal. 1861, Omega announced its successor at the start of the year. Equipped with the new cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm is the result of a thorough makeover, with all its parts – from the case and bracelet to the dial and movement – reworked in nearly every respect. The latest version (left) and its predecessor While that seems to imply a radical change, it’s near impossible to tell the new and old versions apart. Despite being all encompassing, the improvements are subtle. From an aesthetic perspective, the Moonwatch remains as it was in the mid 1960s, when the straight lugs of the earlier generations were replaced with the twisted, “lyre” lugs that are now a defining feature of the model. That leads to the obvious question: if the two generations are nearly identical, is the new version any better? Briefly put, yes. Two upgrades elevate the new Moonwatch in a tangible and substantial manner. One lies in the detail of its design: the face has a bit more flair thanks to greater distinction between the different levels of the dial. And the other lies on the inside: the new cal. 3861 gets most of Omega’s state-of-the-art innovations, resulting in improved timekeeping, as well as a useful level of magnetism resistance. The new cal. 3861 (left) and the cal. 1863 (the dressed-up version of the ...
Time+Tide
I’ve always believed that in order to promote change, those who do not immediately benefit from it must be its staunchest ally. Though I have no issues with a watch sized above 40mm, those in the watch community who want smaller sizes need all the support they can get. Because in the current landscape, it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: We’ll take scaled back diameters, but don’t scale back the offering in the process appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Presenting the complete three watch Pièce Unique set of the new Kees Engelbarths Dragon Gate series - with three unique dials.
SJX Watches
A master of often extravagant, occasionally whimsical, jewelled timepieces, Cartier has just debuted the Mitten Watch. Despite the plain name, the Mitten Watch is a dramatic blend of the jeweller’s longstanding oval watch case – the Baignoire Allongée – and a half glove of woven rose gold, finished with a sprinkling of over 1,500 diamonds. The Mitten Watch is the first unique wristwatch in Clash [Un]limited, a riff on the Clash line up of edgy jewellery. A step upwards in both exclusivity and creativity, Clash [Un]limited is a collection of watches and jewellery made up entirely of limited editions or unique creations. The Baignoire Allongée camouflaged within the rose gold mesh Initial thoughts Watches as jewellery are unsurprisingly a specialty of Cartier’s. Past examples include watches shaped like an overflowing bathtub, inspired by animals, and of course the famous Crash. But still the Mitten Watch still manages to stand out – it is quite a special creation. Being a metallic half glove certainly makes the watch interesting in both form and function, but the execution really brings the idea to life. The Baignoire Allongée – French for “elongated bathtub” – is perhaps the ideal choice for the design, with its stretched but slim profile that’s prominent enough to be visible, yet sleek enough not to be obtrusive, against the mesh glove. And then there are the diamonds that cascade outwards from the watch, giving the mitten a dynami...
Quill & Pad
A collaboration between renowned watch designer Alain Silberstein and the founder and director of the Utinam Besançon clock manufacture, Philippe Lebru, this imposing, colorful timekeeper meets the eye and runs away with it.
Deployant
Hands-on detailed review of the new Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m NY013 Series Fugu watches. With prices, and live photographs.
Deployant
For the first time, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is released in precious metal where previously only a stainless steel version was available.
Revolution
How Richard Mille has transcended watchmaking to impact universes outside of its own, exemplified by the RM Cufflinks & RM 72-01 Chronograph
Quill & Pad
Breguet has a stronger legacy than nearly any other brand and is strongest in Joshua Munchow's opinion when it drifts more toward heritage than trends. A great example of this is the Breguet Type XX Only Watch 2021, a historically inspired version that does away with the aspects Joshua isn't a fan of in the current Type XX/XXI collection. And its auction price will be fully donated for a great cause.
Deployant
In this week's article, we will be taking a look at some of the more accessible and uncommon watches for the budding collectors.
Quill & Pad
Oskar Pascal is the brainchild of a pair of Swedish brothers who were neither previously involved in the watch industry nor are they watchmakers. The engineer and designer have created a cleanly designed chronograph housed within the world's first watch case in ZR01, an amorphous alloy based on zirconium, one of the hardest metals in the world and even used by NASA. And then there are the Pods!
Deployant
Review of the new Montblanc 1858 Worltime Geosphere. Previously in a variation of metals, this latest edition is now available in rose gold.
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