Revolution
The Early Visionaries of Independent Watchmaking
In a cry for recognition, independent watchmakers found strength in unity through the formation of L’Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants.
26,362 articles · 6,308 videos found · page 999 of 1089
Revolution
In a cry for recognition, independent watchmakers found strength in unity through the formation of L’Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants.
SJX Watches
A Spanish brand that got its start in 2016, Ophion has refined its offerings substantially since then. Two years ago Ophion debuted its third and most accomplished model, the OPH 786 Vélos. Though based on the original OPH 786 that has a hand-wind movement with a five-day power reserve, the Vélos does everything better. While the design relies on familiar elements like Breguet numerals and teardrop lugs, the Vélos boasts notably fine details. The Breguet numerals, for instance, are applied and elegantly formed, while the guilloche is tidily engraved. But the Vélos gets there almost entirely by machine, mostly CNC milling, which means it is more affordable than it looks, with the guilloche version priced at about US$3,700. Initial thoughts The Vélos is a good looking watch. Admittedly, the look is fairly generic in its classical design, but it has charm, especially considering the quality of execution relative to the price. A strong value proposition is the best way to describe the Vélos. Even though it is made entirely by machine, the dial is the best feature of the watch. It boasts a strongly three-dimensional appearance, thanks to the substantially-sized appliqués. And because the dial parts are made by machine, they are precisely shaped, which gives it an expensive look. The movement is also a key factor behind the value proposition. It’s a solid calibre with useful features, including a five-day power reserve. And it has been extensively customised for ...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Melbourne is known for a few things. It’s been voted the Most Livable City in the World, it does a lot of great cultural events, but it’s also a serious foodie destination. One of the most popular restaurants is Chin Chin, a city joint that offers an Aussie take on bold Asian flavours. … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Cooking with Chin Chin and Hublot, with Head Chef Ben Cooper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It’s Father’s Day in the northern hemisphere this weekend. Frankly, that’s a good enough excuse for us to relive this glorious yarn from Matthew McConaughey about his dad’s love for “shady deals” that led him to make a regrettable purchase from the back of a van belonging to a man called Chicago John… … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Matthew McConaughey and the tale of his dad’s fake Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While Breguet is associated with classical timepieces – and a history laden with gems that continue to inspire watchmakers today – it does have a significant history with military watches. In the mid-20th century, Breguet, along with a few other watchmakers, supplied the French military with the “Type 20” aviator’s chronograph. Breguet has referenced that military history since the military-inspired Type XX of 1994, which was succeeded by the more complex Type XXI and Type XXII. And now Breguet has just unveiled the Type XXI 3815, which has a titanium case and strikingly peculiar dials in two colours. The version with orange “lume” is especially striking Initial thoughts Breguet has been iterating the Type 20 for almost 30 years – rumour has it a replacement for the base model is due next year – and the Type XXI was an upgrade to the original that never gained the popularity of the original. The new Type XXI 3815 is the third variant of the model to date, and perhaps a missed opportunity. Most elements on the watch are taken from historical models, each correct on its own way – including faux-radium lume and a “big eye” register – but combined haphazardly. The result is an aesthetic that tries to be bold but ends up looking odd. The combination of elements on the dial leaves it off balance. The “big eye” counter feels too big, creating the impression it is far off centre, while the text under 12 o’clock leaves the dial top heavy. Add to t...
Video
Revolution
For Patek Philippe’s 2021 rare handcrafts exhibition, the maison has launched the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R-001 in rose gold
Time+Tide
The Cartier Crash is a bit of an enigma in the history of the French brand. The story behind its Salvador Dali-esque design is far-fetched – a Cartier Tank was returned for repair to the London boutique after being in a car crash, the unusual shape the result of the gold melting in the heat … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Crash is officially trending after popping up in Tyler The Creator’s new video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...
Time+Tide
We’ve grown used to seeing jaw-dropping auction results for two brands: Rolex and Patek Philippe. But recently, the prices of one French-founded jewellery and watchmaking house have begun to climb. That’s right, Cartier is hot, with prices rising not only across the more common models, but also the top lots in auction catalogues. But what … ContinuedThe post Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green had the pleasure of participating in the Cartier #TankTalk with George Cramer, which saw Cartier's Amsterdam boutique staff sharing experiences selling these watches on a daily basis and George and Martin sharing how they perceive the different models. This gave everyone more in-depth insights, strengthened by the presence of historic Tank models as well as the entire new Must collection.
Video
SJX Watches
Announced last year and finally complete, Vacheron Constantin’s flagship boutique in the United States just opened today in Manhattan on 57th Street, just as New York City is coming back to life post-pandemic with summer around the corner. Replacing its former location uptown at the corner of East 64th Street and Madison Avenue – which was the brand’s first boutique in the country – the new store is quite literally bigger and better. The brand’s former space was a one-story location in a quieter neighbourhood, but now its home is a two-storey building with an interior spanning 4,500 square feet, and neighbours that include several notable watchmakers and retailers, including Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet. The new boutique is also the opening act for Alexander Schmiedt, who was recently tapped to lead Vacheron Constantin in the Americas. A watch-industry lifer whose family has roots in the business, Mr Schmiedt was formerly head of Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East, and prior to that the chief of Montblanc’s watch division. Open plan and welcoming The relocated store is kitted out with a new-look interior that slightly more contemporary than the outgoing decor that was heavy on dark wood. Characterised by golden hues and geometric shapes, the store has airy, floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the rich colours inside, along with a selection of watches that are dangerously inviting. In a nod to the brand’s long presence in the United States, the bouti...
Time+Tide
As you might know, I am a bit of a dial fetishist, so when faced with a new limited collection from Grand Seiko, the risk is always there – that fear of repeating myself or getting so carried away that I overreach and baffle you with new adjectives that I’ve accidentally made up in an … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
With auction prices soaring, it’s a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. George Daniels and Roger Smith made a series of 50 Millennium wristwatches back in 1999, and Bonhams is now offering one in its sale on June 16, 2021 with a high estimate of £300,000. Don't be surprised if it goes for much more than that, though.
Revolution
Jessica “J.J.” Owens, who started collecting watches at the age of 14, shares with us her ethos and approach as well as her unwavering passion for vintage Rolex.
SJX Watches
Andersen Genève turned 40 in 2020 – making the brand one of the longest-established independent watchmakers in Switzerland. The brand is, in fact, a pioneer in the field. Founder Svend Andersen, an octogenarian who was born in Denmark but moved to Switzerland in 1963, set up the AHCI in 1985 alongside Vincent Calabrese. Andersen Genève is best known for inventive and novel complications, often built as a module to be added onto a base movement, such as the secular perpetual calendar that needs no adjustment even after centuries – but on an ETA base calibre. Many of the brand’s creations are hand-made, bespoke timepieces built to the client’s specifications. The brand commemorated its 40th anniversary with four models that encapsulate its historical specialties, a diamond-set, Louis Cattier-style world time, a collaboration with Konstantin Chaykin that combines the Russian watchmaker’s Joker display with an automaton on the back, and a jumping hours. The final watch in the anniversary quartet is the first in platinum, the Jumping Hours 40th Anniversary with a 21k-gold dial engine turned by hand. Initial thoughts The Jumping Hours is charming in both design and construction, but for the fact that it is the brainchild of a pioneer independent watchmaker. Save for the case material, the new Jumping Hours is identical to its rose gold predecessor, so it’s not particularly novel. But the guilloche blue dial works exceptionally well with the white-metal case, mak...
Video
SJX Watches
Having debuted the first Alain Silberstein collaboration two years ago, Louis Erard is now back with a trio of watches conceived by the designer known for his Bauhaus-inspired, offbeat style – the Le Triptyque Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Featuring a titanium case with unusual fixed lugs that form a frame, the watches are rendered in Mr Silberstein’s recognisable style made up of geometric shapes and primary colours. The three are essentially Mr Silberstein’s interpretation of the traditionally-styled Excellence Triptych that Louis Erard debuted last year. Available individually or in a box set accompanied by a Silberstein NFT artwork, the watches are priced affordably, starting at CHF3,500 for the time-and-date and rising to just CHF4,500 for the single-button chronograph. Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein II Initial thoughts The Alain Silberstein triptych is easy to like. The watches have a distinctive, cheery style while being accessible in price. They are simple in construction and finish – the movements, for instance, are reliable but not much to look at – but appropriate for the price and still good value. Although the design is entirely new, the case retains the character of Alain Silberstein’s original timepieces, as do the dials. That said, the shape of the hands doesn’t help legibility so it takes a while to read the time. And although La Semaine is the base model in the line up, it has the bonus feature of Mr Silberstein’s amusi...
Quill & Pad
In this non-chronological multipart series called “History of Ferrari Watches,” Elizabeth Doerr takes us through a comprehensive look into the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari collaboration, which took place between 1993 and 2004 and culminated in the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Tribute to Enzo Ferrari Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges perpetual calendar chronograph.
Time+Tide
I know some of you may be thinking: “Doesn’t Grand Seiko already have a boutique in SoHo?” The storefront that opened last year was a pop-up exhibition, dubbed The Nature of Time in honour of the US exclusive four seasons collection. That exhibition has now closed, but Grand Seiko, in partnership with Watches of Switzerland, … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko opens new boutique in SoHo, NYC in partnership with Watches of Switzerland appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Founded more than a century ago, Mido is a brand that has some serious history behind it. From producing watches for the founder of Bugatti, to making some of the earliest functional dive watches, Mido still remains under the radar of some enthusiasts. In recent years, the Le Locle-founded watchmaker has carved out a niche … ContinuedThe post 5 Mido watches to buy in the T+T Shop right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe has made it a tradition to stage an annual exhibition of the year’s unique and limited edition watches decorated using fine artisanal techniques, some of which are distinctive to the brand. This year’s Rare Handcrafts Exhibition will take place June 16 to July 3 at its usual venue, the historical Patek Philippe Salon along the ritzy Rue du Rhone, just at the edge of Lake Geneva. The year’s Rare Handcrafts lineup is made up of 75 timepieces, encompassing pocket- and wristwatches as well as clocks – all of which will be on display. But the exhibition will be twice as large, thanks to the 70 timepieces of the 2020 collection that were never showcased as last year’s exhibition was cancelled. And the exhibition will also include some of this year’s newly launched wristwatches. One of this year’s Rare Handcrafts, the pocket watch ref. 995/122J “Panda” decorated with wood marquetry on the back, engraving on the case, and flinqué enamel on the dial Visitors can expect to see a wide-ranging array of traditional decorative techniques on the watches and clocks, including a variety of enamelling methods, such as cloisonné, paillonné, flinqué, fauré, miniature and Limoges painting, as well as unusual Longwy enamelling that’s named after the French town where it was invented. Gem-setting and wood marquetry will also be on show. And there will be also be artisans on hand to demonstrate their craft – including enamelling, engraving, marquetry an...
Video
Revolution
Wei Koh speaks with Laurent Picciotto, founding owner of Chronopassion in Paris, and one of the most influential personalities in contemporary watchmaking; Mo Coppoletta, a London-based aesthete renowned for his artistic tattooing; Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Product Creation Executive Director of Bvlgari on the now sold out limited edition of 10 pieces, the Octo Finissimo Tattoo Aria.
Quill & Pad
In honor of Pride month, which begins on June 1, and commemorating watch stylist Jean-Claude Gueit’s now-famous design contribution to the world of jeweled watches, Elizabeth Doerr shares five examples of rainbow-set watch models that caught her eye in the last year or two.
SJX Watches
A Singaporean retailer that specialises in affordable, unconventional watches such as SevenFriday and Gorilla, Red Army Watches (RAW) now debuts its own label, KEF Elements. The brand’s maiden model is the Time & Space, a time-only wristwatch with an aventurine-glass dial bearing a glow-in-the-dark zodiac constellation. Initial thoughts Having known RAW founder Sugi Kusumadi for several years, I’ve come to admire Sugi’s passion for unusual timepieces. That’s been evident in past collaborations RAW has embarked on with a number of brands, most notably with Gorilla and Stowa. Its own brand feels like a natural next step for RAW. While the brand is brand new, KEF Elements is very much like many of the brands RAW carries, offering an intriguing aesthetic for relatively little money. Inspired by “the mystique and vastness of space”, the aventurine-glass dial lives up to the Time & Space moniker. Its sparkling surface and luminous constellation successfully evoke the cosmos. Aside from the aventurine dial, another striking aspect of the watch are the dozen dials on offer, each bearing one of the 12 zodiac constellations. An individual zodiac constellation at this price is an unusual proposition, so kudos to RAW. Celestial themes on aventurine glass have been done before, but they are usually accompanied by a hefty price tag, thus making the price of KEF Elements watch notable. With a current pre-order price of S$789, or a little bit under US$600, KEF Elements’ d...
Time+Tide
After losing his 1976 Rolex Daytona worth $350k in a skiing accident, things got even worse for British art dealer Christopher Jones.The post Art dealer loses 1976 Rolex Daytona worth $350k in skiing accident – insurer refuses to pay up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
This is the list our Chief Editor fears. Find out why when he picks the top 6 watches which feature the remontoire d'egalite as a constant force system.
Video
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.